6 — Thursday, November 21, 2019 The Michigan Daily — michigandaily.com Arts Classifieds Call: #734-418-4115 Email: dailydisplay@gmail.com Help needed removing snow periodically for elderly father near North Campus Contact Cheryl 773-403-4245 or clf@umich.edu $25+ per job By Brian E. Paquin ©2019 Tribune Content Agency, LLC 11/21/19 Los Angeles Times Daily Crossword Puzzle Edited by Rich Norris and Joyce Nichols Lewis 11/21/19 ANSWER TO PREVIOUS PUZZLE: Release Date: Thursday, November 21, 2019 ACROSS 1 Many big reds 5 Namely 10 X-ray units 14 Honolulu happening 15 Lacking significance 16 Music halls of old 17 Directive on an env. 18 Play lightly, as a guitar 19 Apt. part 20 Upscale boutique 22 Holden Caulfield’s little sister 24 Constellation near Scorpius 25 Bookstore category 26 Personal records 29 Tire spec 31 Divest (of) 32 Berkeley Breathed’s cartoon penguin 33 Old money that looks new 37 Bark 38 Handle 39 Purpose 40 Small craft on the deep sea 43 Big fishhook 44 Way to go: Abbr. 45 He broke Lou’s record for consecutive games played 46 Accolades 47 Valedictorian’s time to shine 49 Purpose 50 Liquids 51 Quarrel of yore 56 Work to get 57 In an aloof way 59 Twice tri- 60 Exec’s helper 61 “Try someone else” 62 Vienna-based oil gp. 63 “Luke Cage” actor Rossi 64 It helps raise dough 65 Bridge position DOWN 1 Applaud 2 Mercury or Saturn, but not Mars 3 Cricket clubs 4 Summery headwear 5 Campbell-Martin of TV’s “Dr. Ken” 6 Aboard 7 Lumber defect 8 Shiba __: Japanese dog 9 Pace 10 Stiffly awkward 11 Fear of poisonous snakes 12 Churchill Downs event 13 Unchanged 21 Some discount recipients: Abbr. 23 For madam 25 NBA great “__ Pete” Maravich 26 Limerick lad 27 Herculean 28 Outstanding prize money 29 Say the Word 30 School near Albany 33 Trig function: Abbr. 34 “The Raven” writer 35 Facts and figures 36 Some emailed files 41 Diminished slowly 42 Shortage 43 Private eye 46 DIY purchase 47 Seriously reduce 48 Forensic drama set in the Big Apple 49 To date 50 Significant achievement 51 Pocket bread 52 Donation to the poor 53 Rap’s Salt-N-__ 54 Hacking tools 55 Peacemaker’s asset 58 Olympic runner Sebastian HELP WANTED HEY. YOU'RE DOING GREAT AND WE know you can do it. Don't give up! Over the course of the past 24 hours, I’ve become transfixed by a T-shirt. It’s a simple, oversized, one-size-fits-all cut with an unraveling American flag embroidered on the chest, contrast stitching and a skeleton design printed on the back. The front and back sides are different colors (one iteration pairs faded black with eggplant), both of which highlight the quality of the fabric and the dye itself. Kapital, the Okayama-based brand that makes it, offers the shirt through its Kountryline, which focuses on handmade goods and builds on a few key ideas, such as tie-dye, smiley face patches, bandana prints and the aforementioned skeleton motif. The company’s whimsical nature, backed by the arguably unmatched quality of its product and the recognizability of its perennial styles, has contributed to its cult- like status in the menswear sphere. The shirt itself communicates something that I can’t quite put my finger on. Maybe it reckons with the hollowed out husk of Americana, a design aesthetic and an iconography steeped in mid- century propagandic nostalgia and a certain ambitious naivete. Or maybe it just looks good. Regardless of why it speaks to me, it fits neatly in the space that Kapital has burrowed out for itself — a space that plenty of labels go out of their way to imitate. Kapital’s “secret sauce,” so to speak, is not that they were the first label to screen print a smiley face or a pile of bones on a T-shirt, nor is it the consistent output of quality craftsmanship (though it surely doesn’t hurt the cause). There’s a whole smattering of things that they do right, but chief among them is a strong brand identity. The company has spent decades articulating its philosophy and will continue to reap the benefits of that labor. To develop a self-referential oeuvre over a lifespan that people come back to without flashy marketing tactics, without trying each season is no small feat. It takes a community of creatives that know who they are and what they do, and it contributes to what people refer to as “authenticity.” Authenticity is a fraught concept. Sounding it out it in my head as I type is like hearing a plastic spoon scrape the bottom of a styrofoam cup for the last pinch of soft-serve. It reminds me of Amazon ambassadors and corporate Twitter accounts trying to recreate viral memes. The behind-the-scenes: we’re all just people who could maybe be friends, and the big-brother-loves-you-basket of marketing strategies is inescapable from any viewpoint. To reject it and chase whatever lies at the opposite end of that spectrum is a tricky game too, though, because that grass can only get so green. It’s one of the reasons that brands with cult followings like Kapital can feel more like beacons than companies that operate in the same systems as everyone else. It’s almost like there’s a special crop of organizations that manage to fly above the closed loop of identity-based trade. Maybe it’s because some of them built themselves up before the internet boom (Kapital was established in 1985), or because some companies are so entrenched in their perspective that newer modes of communication don’t erode their self- presentation. The question remains, however, especially in fashion: Given that there’s no such thing as an original idea, only new ways of reinterpreting existing ones, what is it that gives a brand authenticity or a sense of truth? It’s a stereotypical question and a highly subjective one, but it lingers. It’s unanswerable, at least not empirically. It’s one of those things that just is and there’s no accounting for it in any tangible way. It’s one of those things that disappears if you pursue it, and the mere awareness of it creates a delicate and problematic game of intentions. The same can be said for good style, good taste and artistic talent. It pays to be gifted and naive. To put effort into one’s craft is honorable, but to put effort into being good, to being genuine or “real,” is to submit to the Euthanasia Coaster of public opinion, invalidating oneself in the process. Je ne sais quois is a condition doomed to permanent change. Kapital and brands held in a similar regard aren’t blithely unaware of what it means to produce for a prospective consumer, of course. There are certain stipulations that come with seeking to survive, but adherence to trends and shifting with stylistic demands of the market doesn’t seem to be a part of their lexicon. Rather, ensuring that seasonal offerings both meet a wide range of needs and fit in the evolution of their own tried and true patterns is paramount. The fashion industry can be exhausting to deal with. After spending my formative years wading through trend reports and wondering how designers seem to show the same styles and color palettes without hosting secret council meetings, or how cultural significance can be achieved without really bringing anything new to the table, finding companies with a strong sense of self is a rare and rewarding experience. They remind me of what I stand for. They also act as something to look to, even if those qualities can’t be attained in myself. As individuals, we hoard things we’re attracted to and cultivate an identity around them. There’s a constant question of how much of oneself is innate and how much is determined by experience, simply adapting to different environments and relationships like designers do to consumer demand. It’s hardly a question worth spending time on, as there are few things more transparent than striving to be unique. We can’t forge ourselves out of thin air or self-actualize in a vacuum, but we can take our personal experiences, our own little product formula and push forward. Velveteen Dreams: On the idea of authenticity, part 1 STYLE COLUMN SAM KREMKE Daily Style Columnist Reading Susan Choi’s “Trust Exercise” is an exercise in itself, one that requires enormous amounts of patience and endurance. As an impatient and easily agitated person, I was almost defeated. The novel is a finalist for the National Book Award and has received critical acclaim from sources including The New York Times, TIME Magazine and The Atlantic. Naturally, my expectations for this novel were high, and I felt comfortable trusting Choi to deliver a transformative reading experience. Little did I know that “Trust Exercise” would utterly betray me, leading me to question not only the establishment, but my own sense of self as a reader. The first part of Choi’s novel explores the relationship between Sarah and David, two students at a performing arts high school, and their relationships with their fellow classmates and popular teacher, Mr. Kingsley. Within a few chapters, it becomes clear that the characters in this novel are static and boring. It is, frankly, difficult to conjure up interest in any of them. Sarah and David’s relationship is unrealistic and confusing because of its total lack of chemistry (even if Mr. Kingsley takes a creepy interest in it). Later in the first section, matters become complicated when a group of visiting drama students from England cause tension and rifts between the American students. Most of the first section of “Trust Exercise” is presented as a bildungsroman young adult novel. The monotonous narration combined with a dull plot make the reading process both tedious and difficult to endure. Midway through the novel, Choi slaps readers with a surprise shift in the narrative, presumably intended to offer an exciting re-orientation of the plot. This tactic may work for some authors, but the decision to uproot the narrative structure unintentionally comes across as a cheap attempt to re-invigorate the plot. In fact, it ultimately has the opposite effect, forcing readers to go through the painful process of becoming acquainted with a new cast of characters who are identically insufferable as those of the previous section. A criticism of “Trust Exercise” would be incomplete without addressing its sex scenes, one of the most condemning aspects of the entire novel. Within the first ten pages, the two main characters, both barely adolescents, are fondling each other in the middle of theater class when their teacher dims the lights for a demonstration. This is indicative of how the rest of the novel will play out, written in the style of a cheap romance novel one might find in a supermarket. Although upon further consideration, they are perhaps even worse. Take this passage, for example: “When he jammed his tongue into her ear she gasped ... and twisted her head to take his tongue in her mouth ... She tasted the bitterness of her own earwax … He flailed; his dead white hairy limbs appeared impaled on the stem of his unaccountably wrinkly erection which he took in his fist and seemed to squirt redly at her, for he’d yanked back the covering skin.” Somehow, the other sex scenes are arguably worse, one of them including a comparison of a penis to “a single clammy mushroom … unwholesomely pale and wet.” Amazingly, there is another, different sexual encounter that involves ear penetration for a second time. Not only do these parts of the novel make me reluctant to engage in intercourse ever again, they make me embarrassed to even inhabit a body. Such passages are objectively poorly written, and they are explicit in an exploitative way, especially in regards to how the scenes all contain elements of nonconsent and power imbalances in favor of the male characters. In simpler terms, these sex scenes are akin to rape fantasies, and are made even more disturbing when one remembers that the most intense ones largely involve intercourse between adolescents, further adding to their exploitative undertones. Several reviewers have characterized “Trust Exercise” to be a nod to the #MeToo movement, specifically in regards to the many scenarios of young women being taken advantage of by older and more powerful men. But the simplistic depictions of male aggressors as clear- cut antagonists, characterizations devoid of any nuance, detracts from whatever commentary she hopes to make. It is obvious who is the “bad guy;” there is no subtlety or critical thinking involved in examining these power imbalances and their implications. “Trust Exercise” nearly broke me. Other readers have gushed about an inability to put the book down because they were so invested in the pace of the story, or were so riveted by the complex characters and engaging plot that they were undeterred by the novel’s graphic depictions of sexual encounters and harassment. My experience with this novel, on the other hand, forced me to question if I was lacking the level of intelligence required to fully appreciate the apparently sacrosanct text. But then I looked down at my open book and glimpsed the underlined phrase, “a single clammy mushroom” and thought, well, perhaps this novel is an exercise in trusting oneself. Of being able to hold an opinion and know when something is objectively bad — even when higher powers claim the opposite. Perhaps this is the transformative reading experience I had initially hoped for, though in an unintended sense of the term. Either way, two things are clear: Do not trust the establishment, and do not trust Susan Choi. Do not trust Susan Choi BOOK REVIEW JO CHANG Daily Arts Writer Trust Exercise Susan Choi Henry Holt and Co. April 9, 2019 SUSAN CHOI Harry Styles is back with his new, honeyed single “Watermelon Sugar,” and now he has high-waisted pants up to his nipples. No one is mad about it. Nay, the pants to the nipples heighten excitement for the album in the same way the steamy nature of his “Lights Up” video sent fans into hysteria. The cotton candy vibes of “Watermelon Sugar” induce a similar frenzy, but one where fans are running to find a lollipop to suck on. “Watermelon Sugar” debuted Nov. 16 on “Saturday Night Live,” a surprise release in anticipation of Styles’s sophomore album Fine Line, coming Dec. 13. The repetition of lyrics “watermelon sugar” and the catchy strumming pattern of the electric guitar emulate the optimism that Styles has brought to the table in his album promo (how could one not be optimistic about Harry Styles smiling in a pink ballerina outfit, which he used to preface his “SNL” appearance?). “Watermelon Sugar” emanates what is voluptuous — this sexy tale of summer love shines bright. Billie Eilish also released a new single this week, her first since her March 2019 debut album When We All Fall Asleep Where Do We Go? “everything i wanted” details a dream Eilish had where she commits suicide, and amid the fame no one cares that she is gone. The cover art features an abstract painting of the Golden Gate Bridge, one of the most popular spots for suicide. Most importantly, the single showcases the enduring safe haven of a relationship she has with her older brother, co-writer and producer, Finneas. Eilish’s new single feels like an extension of her debut album, as she sticks with eerie vocals and an otherworldly investigation of dreams. She continues to use a metaphysical dimension to comment on her waking life. Her sweet spot — mental health, sleep, relationships and that which haunts us — continues to paint a vivid landscape, braiding the same threads as she did on her debut album. Even though she sticks with the same themes, Eilish creates a misty soundscape, as if we’re standing on the Golden Gate Bridge with her and holding her back, loving on her until she wakes up from the nightmare. Harry, Billie have new pop SAMANTHA CANTIE Daily Arts Writer MUSIC SINGLE REVIEW COLUMBIA