The Michigan Daily — michigandaily.com b-side Thursday, October 11, 2018 — 3B I don’t smoke weed. Few things terrify me more than the idea of ingesting a substance whose origins I know nothing about, and I know as much about marijuana as your friendly neighborhood Church Lady. When I first heard about the emergence of cosmetics with cannabidiol, or CBD, I was perplexed. I knew the substance had something to do with cannabis. In my mind, that meant labs full of dermatologists grinding up the stuff my friends put in their bongs, only to sprinkle it into a lotion or lip balm. Needless to say, I was wrong. The story of CBD is far more complex than I ever could have imagined. This is my journey with cannabidiol skin care, made possible by extensive research and a beauty brand called Hora. The CBD Movement: A Timeline Cannabidiol is one of several compounds found in cannabis. Along with tetrahydrocannabinol, the “high”-inducing compound THC, it makes up about 40 percent of the plant’s extract. In western culture, CBD has been lauded for its therapeutic properties dating back to the 19th century; it’s rumored that Queen Victoria used CBD- rich cannabis to alleviate her menstrual cramps. Cannabidiol wasn’t individually extracted until 1940, when American chemist Roger Adams became the first person to separate the compound from the plant using a mixture of ethanol and “red oil.” Six years later, Dr. W.S. Loewe performed the first CBD tests on lab animals, through which he discovered ingestion of the compound does not produce an altered mental state. Scientific interest in CBD slowed in the following decades until its three-dimensional structure was identified, opening a field of research devoted to exploring CBD’s potential uses. Studies in the ’70s and ’80s cited CBD as reducing nausea and vomiting caused by chemotherapy, producing sedative effects and diminishing convulsions in epileptic individuals. From the ’90s into the first decade of the new millennium, CBD was found to hold anti-inflammatory and calming properties, even boasting the ability to ease chronic pains of neurological origin. Today, CBD oil supplements made from hemp are permitted in all 50 states so long as they’re produced under the provisions of the 2014 Farm Bill. Four years after its technical legalization, the compound has garnered widespread use as a treatment for physical pain, anxiety and depression, but new developments have also seen its incorporation into the beauty industry. Enter Hora Skin Care, a Los Angeles-based company that secured its place on the CBD bandwagon from its inception in Jan. At present, its inventory consists of the Super Serum and the Overnight Exfoliating Mask, both of which contain CBD, along with facial rollers in rose quartz, clear quartz and jade. “I actually have another company called Punch Edibles in the medical marijuana, now recreational marijuana, market here in Cali. I’ve been around THC and CBD for quite a long time,” Samantha Czubiak, founder and CEO of Hora, told The Daily regarding her choice to use CBD in her products. “It became introduced into my skin care because I had a ton of products on my counter and every day I would try to figure out, like, ‘OK, so now I need to worry about pimples,’ or ‘Today I need to worry about brightening,’ and all this different stuff. I was always concocting stuff in my hand, and I was like, ‘Why not create something all in one?’ While I was doing a lot of research on the active ingredients that I knew I already liked, I started looking into CBD as a benefit to anti-aging or extra antioxidants, as well as it’s an incredible anti- inflammatory. So people are having a lot of success with it in acne.” Czubiak’s claims didn’t come out of thin air. A 2014 study from the Journal of Clinical Investigation found CBD behaves as an effective “sebostatic” and “lipostatic” agent, meaning it stifles secretion of acne-producing gunk in skin’s pores. The study also indicates CBD reduced inflammation when applied topically. “I thought it was going to be a crucial ingredient in a really all-in-one product,” she said. Other ingredients in Hora’s Super Serum include rosehip oil and vitamin C, while the Exfoliating Mask contains the likes of salicylic acid and MCT oil, a supplement made from Medium-chain triglycerides fats thought to help fight Alzheimer’s disease. In addition to CBD, the products, which were conceived by Czubiak with guidance from a professional formulator, share vitamin A as another common ingredient. The CBD Cynics With every rising cosmetics trend comes a skeptic movement. Those who doubt CBD’s skincare benefits cite a lack of studies in the field. Meanwhile, existing research indicates less efficacy in CBD when it’s extracted from the greater cannabinoid system in isolation, a phenomenon that, according to The New York Times, has been dubbed the “entourage effect.” Many CBD beauty brands, like Hora, employ this isolate, a decision that Czubiak defended. “It’s the purest way to get it,” she explained. “There’s no other plant material in there or extra fats or lipids from the plant itself. You’re literally just getting the active ingredient that you want. It really is just a refined process, and then from there, it really just depends on what you’re using it for.” The uncertainty doesn’t stop there. As The Times points out, there is more CBD in cannabis strains containing THC than in hemp, but only CBD derived from hemp can be legally distributed. This could result in pain-relieving and anti- inflammatory effects that are less magnitudinous than CBD superfans make them out to be. Not only that, in addition, there is no evidence for what an effective dosage of CBD would be for treatment of skin conditions like acne. What scientists do know is a higher dosage seems to signal more potent results. An article from California nonprofit Project CBD reports, “Studies have established that synthetic, single-molecule CBD has a very narrow therapeutic window and requires precise, high doses for efficacy.” The question then arises: What constitutes a high dose of CBD? A 2017 study from the Journal of the American Medical Association showed of 84 different CBD products analyzed, the average concentration for CBD products was 30.96 mg per mL. Compare that to the 250 mg/oz of CBD in Hora’s Super Serum and 422 mg/50mL in the Overnight Exfoliating Mask. That said, Hora has very low concentrations of CBD in their products compared to the average. All things considered, most mainstream dermatologists have yet to get onboard with the CBD push. “There may be some promise for future use,” Jeffrey Orringer, chief of the cosmetic dermatology division at the University, said regarding the potential advantages of CBD skin care. “But it is too early to determine the safety and efficacy of many of these products because rigorous studies are generally lacking in this area.” She Really Tried It When Hora’s public relations coordinator reached out to me asking if I’d be interested in sampling their products, I immediately signed on: This would be my time to put CBD’s claims to the test. After receiving my samples in the mail, I got down to business, applying the Super Serum every morning and night for two weeks, swapping it out for the Exfoliating Mask a total of three times — the package notes it can be used up to four times a week. Most days, I applied the products with my Hora-branded jade facial roller after cleansing with Cetaphil wash. The roller is said to promote absorption of the products, reduce under eye circles and stimulate collagen, the skin’s elasticity agent. This is not an article about jade rollers, so I will keep my praises to a minimum, but that little gadget was especially useful for massaging my sinuses when flu season came for my immune system. The Super Serum has a thin consistency and comes out milky white. Though both dye- and fragrance-free, it emits a noticeable scent that I’ll call “earthy” for our purposes. The Exfoliating Mask is a similar color, though slightly runnier with a less discrete smell. Both were easy to apply, and I was left with no sticky residue after using the roller atop my product- covered pores. During this two-week period, I documented my skin care procedures each day, reporting significant changes in my skin. Below, I’ve rounded up some of my most noteworthy observations: Night 1 - Sept. 22: Smell is subtle but a little funky and vaguely fungal, kind of like the high school biology classroom the day of the sheep brain dissection.* Morning 4 - Sept. 26: When I woke up, my formerly giant lip zit no longer hurt, its whitehead was gone. Less large, but still red. Morning 10 - Oct. 2: Chacne looks so much better! I went on several skin-picking rampages while testing Hora’s products. Evidence of each almost completely faded over the course of a good night’s sleep. “I’ve had tons of positive feedback from the product,” Czubiak said. “I think just statistically, people are always scared or the marijuana industry doesn’t get the credit it really does deserve. I think it’s just going to take a long time with THC and CBD products to really be recognized in mainstream beauty or mainstream pharmaceuticals. I mean, I just heard the other day that there was a CBD drug that’s the first FDA-approved drug out there, so I think we’re making waves, and we’ll start to hear more positive things coming out about CBD, especially. It really is a rockstar product, honestly.” My foray into Hora’s CBD- rich regimen has given me no reason to disagree. I’ve seen the texture of my skin improve in a remarkably short time. My cheeks, once covered in miniscule bumps, are now silky- smooth aside from a few small areas of inflammation. Plus — and I’m fully aware of how silly this sounds — my face feels brighter now. I even received several compliments on my “natural glow” throughout my trial run. In Conclusion I love Hora’s products. Whether CBD is the reason they’re effective is beyond me, but frankly, I don’t really care. In most CBD skin care products on the market, cannabidiol is one of several ingredients, most of which have benefits more generally accepted than CBD’s. Czubiak echoed these sentiments: “I would say that we’ve created just a master formula, and CBD is just one of the ingredients, honestly. I started with, I was getting really obsessed with hyaluronic acid and argan oil … I feel like I was way more focused on making it a complete product and what else was going to go into before I was really like, ‘OK, CBD and just throw whatever else in there.’” Czubiak is not a scientist, nor does she masquerade as one. That doesn’t change the fact that Hora’s products deliver exactly what they promise: a fast-acting, naturally-derived solution to acne and inflammation. They also just so happen to contain CBD. *In retrospect, this was a dramatic exaggeration. I stopped noticing the smell by day three. TESS GARCIA Daily Style Editor COURTESY OF TESS GARCIA Trust me, CBD cosmetics are much more than just smoke and mirrors B-SIDE SECONDARY My Pet Rocks: A journey with healing crystals I’m sitting in the testing accommodation center, flicking my pencil and worrying about the exam I’m about to take. I open my glasses case, slide on my glasses and pick out my two stones — usually an emerald and a tiger’s eye. I have severe anxiety, but luckily, I have my stones. Since I can remember, I have lived around stones, crystals and rocks. My homeopathic, Buddhist dad raised me with this form of healing, and it’s a significant part of my identity and spiritual practice. An active stone-bracelet wearer and crystal-pocket carrier, he knew that my sister and I needed good energy, and that we needed a type of healing that strayed from modern medicine. I had crystals everywhere: my nightstand, my backpack, my swim bag, my glasses case. I would rub them when I had stressful exams to take, I would play with them before my races. When I got serious about meditation practices, I began to meditate with them in my palms or right beside me. No one understood my unique rock collection or the energy it cultivated. When I asked my dad to talk about his journey with healing crystals, he told me he was not necessarily the right person to speak with. A dear friend of his and an alternative, homeopathic healer, Carrie Hamilton, was indeed the expert. Launching her own practice and specializing in flowers, gem and light essences, chakra based healing and energy medicine, Hamilton’s journey with the natural world has led her to spread her powers with others. “I remember playing with them when I was a kid. I was drawn to stones and rocks and nature. My mom was always into gemstones and she was an artist, so I was always around colors,” Hamilton said in an interview with The Daily. After dabbling with crystals and energy healing in college, Hamilton decided to pursue it further and more intensely after experiencing her own health issues. “I started studying chakras and found out there are certain stones related to certain organ troubles … you can lay stones on your body for certain parts of your system,” she said. Many think the idea of healing crystals is a bunch of bologna, but Hamilton replied that the more she studied it, “the more (she) found out how ancient this practice is.” One of the earliest records of crystal and stone uses can be traced back to Ancient Egypt, where they used them as a form of decorative wear and symbols of wealth. Over time, crystals and stones made their way through Europe and Asia, where communities began using them for medicinal and spiritual practices. But it’s a different world for those of us who were raised with modern, Western medicine. Crystal healing doesn’t work as simply as taking a pill or getting a shot. As living, breathing creatures, crystals should be nurtured with our own energy and vice versa. They involve communication and care, as one would have with a pet or a plant. Hamilton mentioned that different “frequencies of a stones and densities of crystals” is what we can most resonate with. But it’s subjective. “I learned how to work with colors and stones with corresponding challenges,” Hamilton said. These challenges can vary from person to person. For example, if one feels sadness or an overwhelming heartbreak, rose quartz can help lighten that emotional weight. Carnelian serves as an energy booster and can help find the strength within ourselves. Depending on what people need, crystals provide an energy to heal our chakra or emotional imbalances. One of the most important aspects to crystal healing is finding ones that work best for you. Each person is drawn to certain stones for various reasons, including the stones’ color, shape, texture and radiating energy. Hamilton emphasized trusting that luring instinct because there is something in the subconscious mind that needs a certain crystal for a certain purpose. Regardless of our internal or external healing needs, crystals can show immense changes to our mind, body and soul. “I encourage people that, if they’re traveling, to pick up a rock or stone, even from the ocean of the side of the road,” she said. “I’m always fascinated to see the different types of stones that you could find.” After my dad introduced me to crystals, I gradually found myself instinctually picking up sea glass from the ocean or shiny rocks on hiking trails. Despite knowing their potential power, I’m drawn to certain stones for specific reasons, quickly adding them to my spiritual rock family. If the concept of “using” healing crystals still feels funky, Hamilton also makes mala jewelry: a string of different stones, crystals and rocks that is used in spiritual practices, similar to the use of a rosary. Just by having the mala beads around your wrist and sharing your energy with it, these beads can have a positive effect on your thoughts and your aura. I’ll hold my citrine in meditation, play around with larimar in my pocket before an interview and I’ll sit with my quartz in the bathtub. Just like medicine, crystals serve different functions in a method that feels so natural, so ineffable. Here, I can feel a change in their temperatures, the vibrational pull and push they have in my hands. My crystals make me feel more grounded and connected to the natural world. “When you realize the core of the Earth is made of (rocks) and is affecting it, how could we also not be affected by these crystals?” she asked. After the interview with Hamilton, I look to my crystals sitting on a clear plate near my bedroom window. I close my eyes and try to embrace the energy that is currently circulating in my very own room. “People forget that (crystals) are like plants. They are growing and shifting. It’s just a much slower process than we are used to seeing,” Hamilton said. I face challenges each day knowing that I am growing with each mistake or stressful event that comes my way. Yet, there are my crystals, in their dish, bathing in sunlight. They’ve always been there, sharing their energy, healing me and growing alongside me. “Be playful. Enjoy it. Get back to that childhood state of really connecting without judgment. They (stones) absolutely respond to our affection, our conversation, and our connection with them … It’s that living energy that we are part of it and helps us feel that oneness again.” ERIKA SHEVCHEK Daily Arts Writer PROFILE One of the most important aspects to crystal healing is finding ones that work best for you