By Bruce Haight ©2018 Tribune Content Agency, LLC 10/09/18 Los Angeles Times Daily Crossword Puzzle Edited by Rich Norris and Joyce Nichols Lewis 10/09/18 ANSWER TO PREVIOUS PUZZLE: Release Date: Tuesday, October 9, 2018 ACROSS 1 “Big Board” that lists GM and GE 5 Strauss of jeans 9 Scam using spam, say 14 Fireworks cries 15 Eye layer that includes the iris 16 Roman robes 17 How something precarious may hang 19 Love, to Casanova 20 Soft toss 21 “Out with it!” 23 List-ending abbr. 24 Diplomatic office 26 “No more for me, thanks” 28 Simon __ 29 How a good comedian leaves the audience? 33 Farm layer 35 Lamp-to-plug line 36 Little mischief- maker 37 Marisa of “My Cousin Vinny” 40 Asian New Year 41 Very unpleasant 43 “It’s __-win situation” 44 Clinton’s veep 46 Fifth scale note 47 Difficult time 50 Queries 54 Schlepped 55 Eats a little 57 “Verrrry funny” 59 Stem (from) 61 Opposite of “yep” 62 Overplay the part 64 Care 66 Career employee 67 New __: modern spiritualist 68 Rebuke from Caesar 69 Put off 70 Gridiron throw 71 Stinging insect DOWN 1 Aristocrats 2 Grammy-winning cellist 3 “Not too __!”: “Good work!” 4 “To the max” suffix 5 Slyly attracts 6 “Brideshead Revisited” novelist Waugh 7 Wiener schnitzel meat 8 Words of confession 9 School fundraising gp. 10 Household skills class, for short 11 “Let me handle it” 12 __ Lee desserts 13 Canine command 18 Elevs. 22 Mideast chieftain 25 Arthur of tennis 27 Dictation pro 30 Like dessert wines 31 Ambulance pro 32 007, e.g. 34 Figure skating figure 37 Sticky subject? 38 Musical Yoko 39 Get sassy with someone 40 Import-export imbalance 42 “Sadly ... ” 45 Newspaper opinion page 46 Norelco products 48 Pointed beard 49 Baked potato topping paired with sour cream 51 Piano piece 52 Some big box stores 53 Clinched, and a hint to the four longest Across answers 56 “... and two if by __” 57 __ up: robbed 58 Parisian gal pal 60 Latvian capital 63 Blow it 65 “Do the __”: soft-drink slogan Of all the fads that have come and gone societally, one of the more prominent cultural obsessions is the push for immersion in a world of DIY. From your own house, to your clothes, to the entire world of crafting, there really isn’t anything that we can’t somehow make for ourselves. A beautifully, and in most cases empowering, concept emerging from this hands- on world is a completely new breed of self-motivators, spearheading self-activism and opening the world of “do it yourself” to the complex realm of cosmetics. With beauty blogs, tutorials, YouTube channels, Instagram accounts and even entire businesses dedicated to self-improvement — through not just cosmetic products, but beauty routines as a whole — an entire new concept fabricates itself from within the depths of DIY pitfalls. This world, practice — or rather, expectation — is a concept called aesthetic labor, and it’s changing femininity as we know it. We’ve seen it on Vogue’s regular Instagram posts showcasing and promoting various celebs’ seemingly flawless makeup routines, and Glossier’s entire blog “Into the Gloss” rests not on the actual products, but rather aesthetic labor. As defined by Ana Sophia Elias in her book “Aesthetic Labor: Rethinking Beauty Politics in Neoliberalism,” aesthetic labor is the privilege that women have to take ownership over their beauty routines. It is more than just some Glossier Boy Brow or Covergirl mascara. It is the process, the labor of beauty as a whole. From a young age, girls are exposed to the world of cosmetics and expected to uphold societal norms by taking ownership over their routines in terms of their cosmetic choices and steps of their routines. In theory, this ability to build a routine seems easy, breezy and beautiful, but in a culture so heavily focused on self-improvement, the dedication to aesthetic labor becomes more than just a minute-long Instagram video, but a full-time job. A full-time job that, once it starts, the constant buzzing of beauty blogs, videos, channels, tutorials, magazine editorials, new and improved product lines, makes it nearly impossible to let go. As more and more women, and young girls especially, dedicate themselves to the burden that is aesthetic labor, the link between the pressure to uphold aesthetic labor and femininity becomes ever-present. With the constant watchful eye of DIY culture and social constructs reminding us that there are never enough changes we can make to our appearances to achieve true beauty, aesthetic labor suddenly becomes a crucial aspect of a woman’s femininity. In other words, to be a woman is to be an aesthetic laborer, a hunter for the latest and greatest, an upholder of routine, a user of the best products. The only problem? To be the best aesthetic laborer is to be inhuman. It is practically impossible to keep up with DIY culture, to obtain the perfect routine. Yet women are deemed less feminine for failing to put enough work into their routines, and for not taking ownership and bettering their appearances, because as society likes to remind us, we are never good enough and cannot make enough changes and choices to our beauty regimes to embody perfection. And this, this is where the vicious cycle starts all over again. Especially with the emergence of Instagram as a platform of social media, the feeling to aspire for a perfectly effortless routine and lifestyle is ever present. Countless profiles saturate Instagram with regular postings of photos and videos of products, various makeup looks and just the day-to-day lives of the account owners. With so many of these accounts on one’s feed, it is nearly impossible for viewers to escape the constant reel of content and comparison from these accounts. Account owner Huda Kattan runs @hudabeauty, a page featuring tips for all things cosmetics, with regular video routines showing extensive contouring, fake lashes, bright eyeshadow and skincare techniques, to name a few. Kattan also regularly posts photos of her extensive makeup collection, packed with name brand products conveniently laid out on her Louis Vuitton makeup bag. In theory and on paper, it seems obscene that a few photos and videos could hold so much weight in society for women ascribing themselves to the philosophy of aesthetic labor. But in a world revolving so much around materialism and looks, aesthetic labor thrives on the social media scene’s overwhelming properties. Because aesthetic labor is always changing, it preaches for us to find the latest and greatest, to always assume that we can be better. So naturally, following one beauty Instagram account simply will not do. To keep up we follow not only our favorite blogger’s pages but also brands like Benefit Cosmetics, Glossier, Lush Cosmetics and Birchbox, adding up to a large percentage of daily Instagram scrolls to be overtaken by routines, new products and more photos of Kattan’s perfectly contoured face, Glossier’s perfect new packaging for Coconut Balm and Rihanna effortlessly glowing while explaining her 10-Minute Guide to Going Out Makeup for Vogue. Although all different in exteriors and makeup choices, what unites these women and accounts is how they are socially constructed. Because Kattan has a specific routine including her own makeup brand, because the women on Glossier’s account are incorporating Cloud Paint and Lash Slick into their looks, because Rihanna has a different routine for going out than day to day, they are all considered feminine. These women are working to better themselves, their appearances, they are laboring working to fix the flaws society has told them that they have, yet making it look effortless. And for that, they are considered truly feminine women. They are trying new products, keeping up with what’s on trend in the cosmetics world and posting about the labor they are putting into their routines. And for what in return? For all this work, society deems this body of women to be beautiful. The only issue with this is that the aesthetic labor portrayed through social media especially is so far from effortless. And while the videos, posts and brands make it seem as though it’s OK to have a routine unique to yourself, there are always consequences. Whether you’re wearing too much makeup, not enough or if you’re not up to speed on the latest cosmetics trends, there is literally no right answer. Yet, as women, we are still expected to work away at our routines and appearances, to be aesthetic laborers and neoliberals, because this is what it means to be feminine. With social media as our overseer and constant reminder that there is always something more to strive for, the vicious cycle of dedication to aesthetic labor never ends. It is as unending as it is unrealistic, something that we as women may never exactly know what it means, as we curate our Instagram feeds, purchase our Glossier and stay in the know on cosmetic blogs, all completely unsure of just how far from easy, breezy and beautiful this lifestyle is. Aesthetic labor and the changing of femininity MARGERET SHERIDAN Daily Arts Writer GLOSSIER STYLE NOTEBOOK As more and more women, and young girls especially, dedicate themselves to the burden that is aesthetic labor, the link between the pressure to uphold aesthetic labor and femininity becomes ever- present When Michael Cera first burst onto the scene almost two decades ago, he played almost exclusively nerdy and whiny, nasal-voiced dweebs. No character better encapsulates this than George Michael Bluth from “Arrested Development.” I have a firm belief that you can trace the entirety of Michael Cera’s career as an almost direct parallel to how the character of George Michael is portrayed. Cera has gone from the pedestal of innocence, to the embodiment of strangely dickish and cool, to a young man-child who has perhaps overstayed his welcome and now it’s not entirely clear what is next for him. In the early days of Michael Cera and “Arrested Development,” both were quirky, well-loved and a wee bit indie. Cera went on to star in “Superbad,” “Scott Pilgrim v. the World” and a number of other popular comedies, his celebrity status slowly rising. Simultaneously, Jason Bateman, Will Arnett, Mae Whitman and other “Arrested” alumni began to make it big in multiple facets of the entertainment industry. Netflix users discovered and binged the early seasons of “Arrested Development” and clamoring for a revival slowly reached a fever pitch. It’s 2013. “Arrested Development” returns in a new format with a new Michael Cera. In the intervening years since the show went off the air, Cera had grown up and become “cool,” appearing as a parody of himself in the raunchy comedy “This is the End” and redefining the role of George Michael Bluth as a suave (but still bumbling) college student who’s now knocking up his Euro-zone hookup and sleeping with a woman who’s also dating his father. This version of George Michael still has the youthful charm of young Michael Cera but now also includes the irony of the fact that that youthful charm has now slightly grown up. This is the transitional Michael Cera, the liminal Michael Cera, the Michael Cera that you still trust despite some feeling deep within your soul telling you that doing so is a huge mistake. This version of “Arrested Development” was similar. Some loved it, some didn’t, most people shrugged their shoulders and said, “Hopefully next time it will be better.” Cut to 2018. Michael Cera is now bordering age 30 and appearing in Aaron Sorkin movies as Tobey Maguire. “Arrested Development” is back for another go around except this time it is mired in controversy surrounding Jeffrey Tambor’s alleged sexual misconduct and the male cast bumbles their way through one of the cringiest New York Times interviews in recent memory. Everything from “Twin Peaks” to “Roseanne” to “The Last Man Standing” is getting revived. Donald Trump is President. The days of pining over new episodes of “Arrested Development” are a distant memory. If anything, most fans of the original show are now helplessly hoping they never have to watch Jessica Walters break down in an interview because of the way her co-stars are acting ever again. Michael Cera being in love with his cousin just isn’t funny anymore, not when both are old enough to have kids of their own. This is the final stage of Michael Cera. The moment when the bitter taste of nostalgia comes back to bite you in the ass and leaves you wondering what it will be like when a 70-year- old Michael Cera is hitting on a similarly aged woman who’s been rejecting his advances since they were 11. Still laughing? I sure hope not. The arrested development of Michael Cera’s career IAN HARRIS Daily Arts Writer NETFLIX 6 — Tuesday, October 9, 2018 Arts The Michigan Daily — michigandaily.com FILM NOTEBOOK