Sunday, February 26, 1956
THE MICHIGAN DAILY
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LONDON
Black-jacketed, stiff white-collared men
and the legacy of a great way of life
By GEOFFREY DE DENEY Is the City of Westminister, the STRETCHING from St. James 'o
UNLIKE any other city in she governmental centre of the coun- Regent's Park, from Bucking-
world London i two cities try. ham Palace to Piccadilly Circus is
Cenoerldrondo.n 'stw hcitied Whitehall, with its administra- the heart of London where this
Centered round St. Paul's Cathed- tive offices, the Admiralty and society left its mark. The stately
ral, the Mansion Rouse (residence Horse Guards is here, opposite squares, terraces of houses built
of the rd Mayor), the Bank of the banqueting hall, all that re- by Adam and Nash, the theatres
gland, the Ryal Exchange, the mains of the old palace of White- and parks are the legacies of a
Stock Exchange and Lloyd's, and hall, and from the windows of great way of life where the writer
close to the great dock area is the which Charles I stepped out onto could be the lion of society as was
City of London m the scaffold. Dr. Johnson, and good manners
Port, centre of commerce and Close by is the palace of St. were valued.
finance, "the City" is the equiva- James, successor to Whitehall as Much of this remains. One re-
lend ofgnWatreeatfwitshw andifearoyal residence and centre of the sult in particular is that London
and organizationmall of its own and brilliant English society of the late is a man's city. In a quiet back
a mysterious informality familiar 17th and early 18th centuries. street are the unassumingly front-
only to those who work there, Violent and extravagant, yet of ed men's tailors, Saville Row. No
black-jacketed, bowler-hatted, stiff great intellect and consummate prominent display for the critical
white-collared , men who carry taste, the lords and commoners eyes of women, but a man's world.
tightly rolled umbrellas; a square who made up this assemblage were Close by is Jermyn Street where
mile more densely inhabited and no decadent aristocracy marking the shoemakers and hatters are
busy by day than any other in out the passing of their age to be found. It is from these shops
Europe, and by night a deserted with the steps of a careful gavotte that come the shoes about which
area peopled only by night watch- or minuet like their confreres at" their owners write to prominent
men. Versailles. These were men, and papers to say that they have worn
women too, who were the leadc:s them on mountains, through rivers
BUT three miles up the Thames of their country in government, and swamps in heat and in cold,
harrassed Members of Parlia- in ideas and taste, in wealth and over five co tinents in twenty-five
ment give tea to troublesome con- estates, and in vice and scandal. years and have never needed to
stituents on the terrace of the History shows their achieve- have them repaired.
Houses of Parliament overlooking ments, the Restoration drama, The shops have unobtrusive
the river, in the shados of Big their wit and licentiousness, and windows and quiet gold lettering
Hen and We.stminister Abbey. Here London is their monument. See CITY, Page 5
T RAVE L
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--Photo--Rob ert , Jne
THE PARIS BUM
... paid for by the Chamber of Commerce
... the real and the fake
(Continued from Page ?) ert clicking of camera-shutters.
You go back to the cafe.
tourists. They paint rapidly and "Yeah, I saw him. He looks like
with a degree of architectural skill, a bum all right."
rendering the church, the shops, "Well, he's not," says the
the roof-tops, in watercolored stained man. "He's getting paid
splendor. for sleeping there. By the Cham-
In one block, you count seven ber of Commerce."
art shops. Herein are offered the The stained man rubs his chin
completed works of Montmartre's with the glass, then drinks off his
artists. Prices are cheap, beer. "You want to see the real
France?"
OU STEP into a cafe for a "Well," you say, "I'd sort of
beer. One of the painters, a planned on something along those
squat little man with stained lines."
clothes and brownish teeth, leaves "Then get the hell out of Paris.
his easel and walks into the cafe. You could live here for year: and
"Rustic, isn't it?" he aks in nest r 'e the seal thing.
good English.
"Yes, I suppose so" "ET OUT into the provmnes.
"You suppose so!" His eyes Walk, or ride a bike. Let
widen. They too are brown- your hair grow and buy a cheap
stained. "This place is so rustic suit. Don't ever open your mouth.
it stinks." He wipes his mouth With the first word of American,
with a pin-striped sleeve. "Buy the real Europe withers and dies.
me a beer," he says. , "And in dying it stretches out
"Okay." its hand. Not for comfort, my
"You see that bum on the steps friend. Never for comfort or pity.
down the street?" he asks. For money."
"No." The stained man turns his
"Well, then you're blind. You're stained gaze down into the glass.
supposed to see him. Go look." Vrom the street comes the sound
He's right. A grizzled old man, of clicking shutters, the rustle of
wrapped in a dirty poplin rain- many-zeroed bills, and one high,
coat, sleeps on the stoop of a stuc- eager voice.
coed building down the street. He "Gee whiz, Mommer. La vie
snoozes on, impervious to the cov- boheme, hey?"
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