I -THE MICHIGAN DAILY SUNDAY, M~.ARCH 20, 1 9 _____________________ U I Law-Engine Feud Ended 'Swing-out' Cop, Gown Day Formerly Launched Senior Activities Tradition Suspended in '41 Senior Swing-out, one of the oldest of senior class traditions, seems to have taken its place in the ranks of the forgotten along with many other formerly cher- ished customs. Inaugurated back in the 1870's, Swing-out was the day on which seniors would first appear in their caps and gowns. This would launch all the other senior activi- ies. * * * EACH YEAR thousands of stu- dents and townspeople gathered to watch the colorful procession of seniors following the marching band across the diagonal to Hill Auditorium, where a short pro- gram was presented. Seniors were then expected to wear their caps and gowns every Wednesday until graduation. This was discontinued, however, when the day for holding Swing- out was changed from Wednes- day to Sunday in an .effort to aid solemnity to the occasion. Apparently a little dignity was needed quite badly. Battles be- tween lawyers and engineers were common. ASLATE AS 1930 lawyers were drenched with water as they passed through the engineering arch. Beginning in the 1920's sen- iors "considered it their duty to imbibe freely before the cere- mony." Rowdiness increased and after numerous warnings against the "immoral taint" and serious threats of suspension, the tra- dition was banned in 1934. At promise of the maintenance of dignity and order from honor societies brought a revival in 1937. Swing-out was then continued until 1941. Another revival' was attempted in 1947 but proved un- uccessful. "The Two Philosophers" WINNING PHOTO-Pictured abov is the prize-winning photo, "The Two Philosophers," in the re- cent Michiganensian campus contest. The unsusp eti"i' model was caught by photographer Santosh Bagchi, who received a radio as first prize for the picture, Ornate Plumage of Early American Male Put Somberly- Dressed Women to Shame Dictionares' Aid Feminine Home Sewers Although prices on summer cot- tons are coming down, some wo- men will still prefer to sew their own with the aid of fashion shows, patterns and window shopping. The latest asset for the seam-j stress who really goes out for high fashion are books on fashion lan- guage to enable her to under- stand commentators of the mode! at shows and in articles. Words associated primarily with the process of making wearing apparel and accessories are usual-, ly not easily available elsewhere. Even in the best dictionary, they are not always defined from fash- ion's point of view. * * * THOSE WHO would like tot know fashion and maifest their own ideas will find studies of books of this type invaluable. In these times when designers are constantly referring back to the dress of Greece and Rome as well as early American and Victorian garbs, a knowledge of the history of fashion is really essential to any would-be de- signers. A knowledge of fabrics and lines are also essential to buyers who would heed or not the babblings of the saleslady or advertisers of fashions. Other advantages of fashion books include important stitches, laces, embroideries and weaves made easily recognizable, as well as tips on furs-real and imita- tion-and what such things as lapins really are. Female Spender Clings to Dollar "The average woman is closer with a dollar of her own than 99 is to 100, although most money women spend belong to the men, not to themselves." So claims Herb Graffis in the March issue of Esquire. IN A PROBING article called "Mammon and the Lady," Mr. Oraffis tells why women don't go broke. "It's only when she is spend- ing someone else's money that a woman develops a generous streak," he says. "Female affinity for the dollar is not necessarily bad. A woman wants to spend her money wisely and get value received." "That's a good thing," the story concluded, "for women do 80 per cent of the spending." Male Eyes Recoil, Gripes Prove Fruitless As Spring Spurs ChapeauControversies By DON KOTITE When it comes to "chics' elm- peaux," not only the French have a word for it. Especially with Easte r just around the corner, the long-suf- fering American male is slated to spar another fruitless round in the 'Battle of the Bonnet.' As- in past years, the nod will unquestionably go to'the women and their do-or- die airs. In winter, fashionable headgear seems to take a permanent back c'tn t dn dn ,,a f i xx, 'nt4h n ' year's creation from blowing away. But balmy spring ushers in more than showers and flowers; male guffaws are to no avail against the bevy of lids worthy of an endorsement by Salvatore Dali. We wonder if the great surreal- ist himself wouldn t recoil if Mrs. Dali ever decided to sport the fa- miliar flowerpot in the Easter Pa- ra de. ate a dew Hollywood fad), hat de- signers can labor with twice as much head space on which to dream up fancy chapeaux. From all indications, it looks like coiffure conservatism will die another horrible death in 1940, without any urgent femi- nine pleas for resurrection. Fate has dealt masculine eyes anoth- er low blow. One encouragement remains, however--a man could break his barber appointments, let his hair grow long and don one of his, wife's stunning creations. 'Te Pa- risian fashion world might .ibel, but judging from male sent'.ment, turnabout is fair play, and we're not going to take another year of this lying down. sea Louemals ot auii oer' Movie actress Mary Martin has style, set forth by chilling wmds. done her fellow females one better by shaving her long locks a la In- Lassies braving mid-October grid Bergman. And if others fol- blasts find they must devote less low her example (what woman time to poring over fashion mags wouldn't delight in being the first and much more to keeping last in her neighborhood to incorpor- the inspircdio your ent ire Spring tta rh Hie .WN 4 BATTLE OF THE BONNET: t i By MARGE SCHMIDT Although today's women are the wearers of the now commonplace "new look," formerly men were the ones who sported the laces and frills in the various "new looks" that appeared. In the early days, when America was just getting a start toward breaking away from England, men's shirts were masterpieces of artistic sewing with ruffles flaring below jeweled velvet coats. Col- 0 h S n Ic b n Newberry Dormitory Oldest Campus Women's Residence orful three-cornered hats and pol- shed, silver shoe-buckles were high ashion at this time. After the Revolution there was a sharp trend to do away with the clothing of the mother country, and the American gentleman was soon decked out in the first of nany "new looks" to follow.. TOP HATS, silk neck scarves ind white waistcoats, decorated with huge gold chains were essen- ial for the well-dressed man, He "ore a coat with widely flared col- ar and lapels. The jacket ended below the waist and was comple- nented by tight-fitting trousers with a loop fitted over patent eather pumps, As the nation changed, so did male attire. From the Civil War through the "Gay 90's" trousers were wider and shirts had high stiff collars. Ties were tied in huge knots and tacked down by a gleaming pin. Coats were still cut long, but weme beginning to assume the double breasted effect of today. CAME WORLD WAR I and an- other "new look"-mostly through necessity. Tailors and clothing manufacturers began cutting down materials in suits. Suit coats be- came short and skimpy, and trou- ser legs were tightened up again, without cuffs, After the Armistice, the "flap- pers" came into their own. This "new look" featured wide pants, caps, turtle-neck sweaters and shaggy fur coats in the winter. Checks and plaids were the thing, and the flashier the ma- terial, the better. The "flapper" craze ended as men turned to clothing much like that of today, with but a short in- terruption in the recent "zootsuit" era. THIS STYLE was partly a re- turn to the "Gay 90's." Coats were long and draped to the extreme and trouser cuffs were tight, Men's fashions of today aike~con- servative even though the "bold look" has caused a .minor rebellion in male styles. Is today's "bold look" a preview of an entire "new look" in men's fashions? robe1 ~ k\ St "There are those who believe that the day of general dormitor- ies is surely coming,' we read in the Michigan Alumnus of Aug. 1013. With this forward looking pro- nouncement, the University ac- cepted a gift of $75,000 from Mrs.. Henry N. Joy, Truman H. New- berry, and John H. Newberry to be used to build a residence hall for women as a memorial to their mother, Helen Handy Newberry. "THE BUILDING will be of dignified urouortions, opening to terraces on the north and south," the June 1914 Michigan Alumnus reports. Helen Newberry Dormitory became the first on - campus residence hall under the Univer- city's control since the old wings of University Hall had been abolished as living quarters and turned over to the general use of the University in President Tappan's time. Designed by the architectural firm of Kahn and Willy of Detroit at a cost of about $100,000, Helen From Pails To Purses By BARBARA MOLYNEAUX Small butter tubs, middle-sized jam buckets, and huge fish pails will be carried this summer as handbags; an original idea come to life. These wooden buckets of thek humblest origin are now being stained, sanded and glamorized with bright leather to become handy carry-alls for street and beach wear. The idea was the result of a dare taken by a New England married couple to copy a friend's $60 handbag. The wife, Powers- model Doris Bryn, and engineer Roger Van S created in their liv- ing room a new -million dollar fashion. STAINING BUCKETS takes skill, they have found. Stains in- clude maple, walnut, mahogany and antique, but all resulting in distinguishing shape-that of P. homely bucket. Many of the carry-alls have shoulder straps and are large enough to hold bathing suit and beach umbrella during the summer, while others are small to compliment a tweedy sport- ine suit. The Van S's are a family of four. Daughters Sandra, 2, and Frankly, we think this will be the hit of the season. Spring rayon sheer with seven rows of imported lace ruffles, and full length bell push-up elasticized sleeves. In crisp Easter colors of white, pink, maize, blue and chartreuse Newberry Dormitory 'was ready for occupancy during the summer session of 1915 and hdused 68 girls. The following fall, Martha Cook Dormitory opened its doors; and seven more girls moved into Newberry, bringing the total to 75. * * * t WITH THE exception of the C sunporch added in 1934, the ex- terior of the dormitory has re-b mained the same. Built of hollow tile fireproof construction, the stucco exterior is relieved by white trimming and green shutters. Originally, however, the main entrance faced State Street and two reception rooms took the place of what is today one large living room. The color scheme of these former reception rooms was deep ivory and old blue with paneled walls of ivory and brown. Among the furnishings were several gifts from the Newberry family.- Coeds who lived in the, dormitory during those early years found their rooms furnished with heavy velvet rugs, furniture in ftimpd nk and wicker with touch- es of chintz and light brown hang- ings. * * * DURING 1927-28, 30 girls were housed in nearby houses on May- nard Street, but were under the same supervision and ate their meals at the Newberry. The sunporch was put on the front of the building in 1934 as a part of the Public Works Admin- istration, converting the center hall and reception rooms into one large living room. The main en- trance to the dormitory was inov- ed to the side. Today Helen Newberry houses 105 girls. Mrs. Henry Joy has served as chairman of the Board of Patronesses since the building was erected and has annually vis- ited its occupants. Other patron- esses are Mrs. Philip Bursley, Mrs. Wilfred Shaw and Mrs. Charles Jamison. Legs Go Light This Summer Light colored stockings will again become popular when spring begins,t according to fashion de- signers. The new. shades of stockings and light colored shoes will be worn with dark suits. And no more dark stockings with gay summer dresses, predictions dictate. With black or brown shoes fa- shion advisers recommend clear taupes that vanish on the leg: With colored shoes, stockings that and orchid, Sizes 32 to 38. $5.95 RAND0ALL'S SPECIALTY SHOP 306 South State Street ak by LILI ANN - of San Francisco AA TOWN SHOP 21 7 South Main 9 Nickels Arcade Grey with Grey by Merritt-Taylor Famous for fashion-for beautiful fabrics- exquisite detailing-you'll find coats by "Lili Ann" are stand-out beauties that invite a second glance. In fine gabardine- your choice of new Spring shades. Size 10-18, $49.95 to $79.95 * SUITS by LILT ANN are creating a fashion sensation-flattering -adaptable-wonderful for day into evening wear-the fabrics are magnificent. New fashion shades. Size 10-20. $49.95 to $79.95 * HEADLINERS Our new captivating millinery--- off the face, on the face--beflowered -beribboned and oh! so becoming. $3.95 to $15.00 0 CLEVER HANDBAGS Styled to complement the new old-fashioned look--richest leathers- finest suedes-silkiest failles. $5,00 to $18.50 * ADDED ENCHANTMENT for your costumes. Tiy scatter pis- earrings-necklaces-to highlight" to complement your costumes. Spring r Gabardine Suit Au. i'Wooi SUIT: Single but- *I ton jacket, button trim, collitr . . . c~an slim -in( sleek skirt. A suit by lcrritt- Taylor-double tone in grey. $59.95 HAl Open crown straw clotl trinuned with nyloli and rose, --Posol b-), Nancy 3.Boijoie AS FEATURED !N VOGU . II