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THE MICHIGAN DAILY ~'~ ;

ECEMBER5, 1941


Midnight Blue N
For Father- Stiff Bosom
The'Bankroll' Shirt Favored
Is Considered This Season
Tobacco, Tie Rack, Scarf Plain Patent Leather Shoes
Are Suggested As Gifts Prescribed; Topcoats
For Him Who Pays Will Be- Knee Length

Vorsteds Lead Parade For Evening

Wear


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He has to pay for it, so why not
give Father's gift a little extra con--
sideration this Christmas? The ha-
iltual white ligen hanky would be
very proper, of course, but where, for
instance, ,does he keep his tobacco?
A stor we know has a selection,of
tobacco cannisters that any Dad
would cherish. These cans come in
flat models of inlain wood, pounded
metal, or even pigskin-all with
moisture-proof covers.
For those ties .f his that you
haven't borrowed yet, you might give
Father the newest in cravat racks.
The newest arrangement has a strip
of honey-colored leather with eight
silver rings to suspend his ties from
harm.
Confidentially, most fathers secret-
ly covet your favorite scent. So why
not give him his own "parfum"? A
well-known firm has combined an
astringent lotion, an after-shave pow-
der, and a masculine eau de cologne
in a compact gift box for this very
purpose.
You probably can't afford it, but it's
a nice thought, anyway. For your
own super father-a huge light leath-
er traveling bag, with a whole side
that .zips open to reveal compart-
nIents for his comb, brushes and lo-
tions.
But there are countless little things
he'd like to. What about a set of
numbered helmets for his favorite
putters? Or a thick plaid wool scarf
for his cold morning trips to the
office?
Anywiy, really think before you
buy for Dad-he really deserves it.
Noel Presents
Remain Same
Grandma, Grandpa Liked
Gifts 'WayBack When'
Christmas gifts haven't changed
much in the last fifty years.
Modern inventions have outmoded
and style has eliminated some of those
grandmother and grandfather gave,
but substantially they are the same.
Ties, handkerchiefs and socks were
usual standbys for the men back in
the 19th century. Pearl pen holders
with gold pens were more on the elab-
orate side along with jeweled scarf
pins. Grandad also liked a charm
or two for his watch chain. Pipes
and tobacco had their customary
places on any Christmas shopping
list.
Grandmother liked gold and silver
ornaments, flowet's, jewels, cary and
personal accessories. The flowers
were often American Beauties and
came in big baskets. The children
got dolls and pretty toys.
Books were ever-lasting favorites.
The Joneses might give the Smiths
horse blankets or wolf or buffalo
robes to use for warmth while rid-
ing in the old carriages and sleighs.
Every old-timer's house was a-
dorned with a Christmas tree and on
Christmas Eve all the children hung-
up their stockings in front of the
fireplace. On the festive, day itself
al the relatives from miles around
draggedc out old Dobbin and came to
Grampa's house for dinner and cele-
brtion.

By CLAYTON DICKEY
Traditionally, fashions in formal
attire change gradually from year to
year, and this one is no exception.
The discriminating individual, how-
ever, will want to be informed of the
latest accepted standards, no matter
how small or exacting they may be,
so as to assure his being properly
groomed. ,
Evening suits, almost without ex-
ception, are midnight blue wosteds
Grosgrain silk facings are most gen-
erally favored, but satin facings are
also fashionable. Shoulders and la-
pels of tailcoats should be broad.
Double stripes for trousers are an
innovation and not yet accepted.
Shirts are of the stiff bosom, two-
stud variety and should be equipped
with white pearl studs. Wing collars
with large tabs and the butterfly
pique tie are prescribed. Single-
breastednpique waistcoats cut with
a V-opening are a requirement.
Plain toe patent leather shoes are
preferred, but plain toe black oxfords
are becoming more and more accept-
able.
The trend in all types of topcoats is
toward knee length, and this is par-
ticularly true of outercoats for eve-
ning wear. These should be dark
blue and set off with a white silk
muffler.'
But although correct clothes may
make the man, they must also be
tailored and worn correctly to do so.
Here are a few pointers on how to
adapt your attire to the latest in
style trends.
Wing collars should be high in
back and slope forward. The ends
of the bow tie should be in front of
the tabs. Ties should not be tucked
under the wings of the collar, accord-
ing to present custom.
Tapered sleeves are comfortable,
as well as fashionable. They should
be sufficiently short to allow at least
a half inch of the shirt cuff to show.
Wide sleeves and cuffs and long
sleeves should not be worn.
The front of the tailcoat should
cover the waistcoat at the sides. For
trousers, a slight break over the in-
step is the rule.
These are the minimum require-
ments. If you are one who requires
a complete evening wardrobe, plus
the trimmings, white kid gloves, gold
key chain, collapsible opera hat, and
white or red boutonniere are stand-
ard.
Knitted Shoelaces
Latest Development
In Footwear Line
'Knitted and multi-colored shoe-
strings are the latest fashion develop-
ment for the revivifying and rejuv-
enation of your old shoes.
The new styles which may be se-
cured in any color from deep magen-
ta to dull vermillion, are making their
fashion debut in simple designs which
are associated with various types of
men's clothing.
Some of the flashier and perhaps
more eye-catching types are those of
scotch plaid with brush tips and oth-
ers intended to match the stockings
of the wearer.
The present styles will be continued
for formal wear, although smart black
silk strands with white tips are being
sold in combination with dancing
shoes.

Here's Wishing Your A Merry,
WelL-Dressed Xmas Vacation
IT IS more blessed to give than to receive, and those who give receive.
Sounds like a semester crib of Ec 51, but it should be seen, read,
and digested by any who plan to participate in the great game of put-and-
take which comes to a climax December 25. For generosity rewards only
the generous, and if you want any more of this stuff may we refer you to the
latest Brookings Institute seurvey.
We're much, too sentimental to view Christmas through the cold glass
of economic determinism. Who cares if it is the greatest
buying period of the whole year? Who cares if women
will fight, bite, kick, scratch, gouge, claw, push and clip'
their ways through the nation's department stores for
{ the next two weeks. We don't. We just sit back in that
leaning ivory tower and wait.
BUT YOU'RE DIFFERENT. Life hasn't become a
hollow shell of its former vacuum as far as you're
Merry Xmas concerned. There's still someone who cares. There's
still that little gray old lady that you're going to marry some day. There's
still that home fire burning, there's still that friendly hearth, there's still
that cheery parlor, there's still the warm gl6e of your tavern companions,
and the sympathetic kick you get out of "The Face On The Barroom Floor."
Therefore life is worth living. Christmas means more to you than a six-
day debauche ending in a one-night bat. You have the spirit of good cheer,
the spirit of '76 and the spirit of 69. Un-
der your case-hardened exterior, there
lurks a case. Under your cynical gaze
there lurks a glaze. ?: -

Leather Style
Heads Parade
In Glove Line
Matching Scarf Sets Also
Popular; Many Colors
Are OffeFed This Season
You have to hand it to the glove
manufacturers for they have placed
on the Christmas counters a practi-
cal and attractive item of their art,
men's gloves.
Most advertised this year is the
leather line. These have the seams
outside which make for added com-
fort and distinction. They are tough
too for in the various styles the
seams have been sewed with nearly
everything from buckskin thongs to
Nylon thread, which guarantees
them, so 'tis said, to be rugged. This
style comes in a variety of colors,
cork, tan, grey, etc.
Knit gloves hold the spotlight
along with the leathers. Designs are
more or less the same as other years,
and these gloves come in shades that'
beat the rainbow for color.
Glove and scarf sets to match are
on many Christmas lists. If you like
leather backs and knit palms in your
gloves they come ready to wear. Or
for something different they are sell-
ing numbers with knit backs and
leather palms.
One interesting glove set was re-
ported, two pairs for the price of,
well probably two pairs, an unat-
tached knit pair of gloves for lining
and a leather pair for outside. Ei-
ther pair can be worn independently
of the other, which makes it pretty
fancy, but practical.

"Ye Old Horse-Thieves' Report
A Merry Christmas At Eloise

By RUDDY and AXEL
Well, Christmas is almost upon us,
It's just like when I was talking to
Blitzen the other day, and all of a
sudden out of a clear sky, he quipped,
"Christmas is almost upon us."
The time waxes near when people
start telling you about Xmas back
in the good old days when Mother was
a little girl, wrapped in pink swad-
dling clothes.
It seems like yesterday that we were

And so, on this quaintly old-fash-
ioned theme of tender Yuletide joy,
we draw a reverent curtain. We
shall never know what interesting
tales were told over that glowing can
of Sterno . . . But today, times have
changed, the twentieth century has
us in its grip, we are living in an im-
pacted age. The same scene is being
reenacted, but oh how differently. It
is 20 years later, and time has had
its way. The can uf Ste rnoi is talk-

all sitting around the can-of-Sterno' g:in
with our smoking jackets and our Sterno: I am mindea of a story, A
pipes. My pipe was an old briar, bunch of us cans of Sterno were sit-
tempered with age, and mother's pipe ting around a can of Sterno one
was Hygiene 101, tempered with Doc night when Doc Brace started to talk.
Brace. 'The wind was sharp and bracing, in
The Sterno sent off a warm glow, fact it braised all the potatoes w ic'h
and put us into a mellow mood of iwere bubbling merrily over the can
of Sterno. The kettle whistled a
reminiscence. Doc Brace was talking: merry tune. Its infectious gurgle set
Doc B: One night, a bunch of us us all whistling. Mother was one of

.

WHICH brings us back to Christmas
fashions. Men's styles this year are't
showing a certain resignation, and you
know what chance an English herring-
bone has against good home-grown Ol-
ive Drab. Quite a few are faced with
the problem of getting an increase in
furlough or playing Santa Claus in a
purloined "jeep." Yes, they're playing
"Jingle Bells" on a bugle (try it some
time), and silk pajamas are out when
it comes to tenting n the old camp °
ground.
So we leave you in the hands of the
nation's best style reporters, who should'
make it a merry and practical Christ-
mas-in a London drape with ribbed toes;
matches.

boys were sitting around a can, of
Sterno up in the Yukon. Outside the;
wind was blowing. It was sterno and
repellent--Suddenly the door opened
and in walked a stranger from up the
crick, with a lusty load in his poke.
He was . . .
Mother:. Pol e, did you say? Well,
that reminds me of a story, by George.
On second thought it was by Harry,
What, you don't know Harry; why
sure youi know Harry; everybody
knows Harry.-
Doc. B: Did you say Harry? Egad,
that reminds me of a story.
Mother: kDid you say a* story? By
George, that reminds me of a story.

the Whistlers. Blitzen was whistling,
the Grieg Piano Concerto, giving sort
of a BlitzenGrieg effect,, .
Doc. B : Ho Hum.
* * *
And so, the Spirit of Christmas
Present has conquered the Spirit of
Christmas past, with oh what sad re-
sults. Some dlay, perhaps we shall
once nore return to the good old days
of our forefathers, the days when our
forefathers were not caught in the
rush of modern civilization (except
Uncle Harry, who pledged Phi Psi).
Until then, we must carry one, wihte
tie and tails for dinner. what? And
so we leave you with the immortal
words of S. J. Perelman ringing in
our ears, "THUMBS UP!"

Olive Drab: In Style
and an extra pouch for your

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Gift Counsel
For The Man
At Christmas
By GLORIA NISHON
(One Who Knows)
For that smoothie with the expen-
sive tastes, the ultra-sophisticate, the
guy with the bachelor apartment you
want to move into, girls (under the
right conditions of course), we have
a few suggestions for the smaller and
larger budgets.
Starting with the lower-price-range
which-looks'-expensive, we invite your
opinion on a plastic wallet. If you
haven't muph money, you can thus
give him an opportunity to show how
much he has. Indeed, he'll never
make the mistake of taking you out
without a cent in his pocket for one
look at the outside is sufficient, 4 he's
the lazy type and doesn't want to
bother to look inside. They're good-
looking and nice change from"the
time-worn leather ones.
Give A Photo
Another old but useful gift is a
photograph of yourself. If he likes
you he'll value the photo (make it as
seductive as possible), and if he
doesn't he'll probably like another one
to add to his collection anyway. Then,
tdo, there's the angle that four or six
are cheaper than one, so you can in-
clude Ma and Pa, Grandpa and
Grapdma, Sister and Brother and
all your other boy friends as recipients
also.
Our next suggestion is a new type
of razor-the Rolls Razor. This is
something distinctly ultra-ultra. It
was originally made only in Sheffield,
England, but is now being manufac-
tured in the United States. They
range in price from about $7.50 to
$15.00, depending on whether you get
a silver, gold-plated or pure gold one.
In addition they come in boxes made
of the same metal as the razor, which
can be monogrammed if you're in the
money. The beautiful part of the
whole thing is that they eliminate
the need for buying razor blades for
which blessing you will be praised
forever.
Sleeveless Sweaters
Last but far from least we offer the
wool and silk gabardine sleeveless
sweater. These are a little more per-
sonal and he really has to rate to de-
serve this litle token of your esteem.
The wool part which composes the
back, neckline and pocket edges is
pure English cashmere and they come
in beige, light blue and maize. They
cost $15 and look like a million.
With these new ideas we hope you
will be able to decide just how much
you think of your man, girls, so you
can skimp on your family's gifts in
order to satisfy HIS tastes. With
such presents as any of these, how
can you possibly go wrong?

Lone Flannels
Return Again
Broadclotl Silorts Taboo;
Snaps An Innovation
For the first time in lo! these many
years, long underwear will not be
looked down upon &s a sign of the
rube, but rather will be envied as a
wise precaution against Ann Arbor's
chilly, and always unexpected weath-
er.
Then, too, there is symbolism in-
volved. The girls have their little
navy ornaments and their V for Vic-
tory paraphernalia; it is only na-
tural that we men adopt the union
suit in celebration of the ending of
labor trouble. Looking at it in an-
other light, long underwear is also a
symbol of our feelings toward the
Nazi soldiers who, without our com-
fortable Long Johns, are scratching
across the Russian steppes in their
synthetic burlaps pursued by well-
warmed Russians in Lend-Lease un-
derwear.
Kidding aside, broadcloth shorts of
all colors and geometric designs of a
prismatic rainbow have gone out with
Hermann Goering. Streamlined jock-
eys are, as they say in the ads, suave
and smopth, and some are being worn
even in the worst of the bad weather
blows back and forth across Ann
Arbor without touching the rest of
Michigan.
The most revolutionary thing in
underwear are snaps. Buttons are
now looked upon as contemporaries
of the yellow shoe and the lavender
tie with hemispheric patterns.
You understand we don't wear any
of this. Spending half our time in
an iron lung and the other half in a
straight-jacket keeps us out of the
underwear market.
P.S. We've assumed you're too old
for diapers.
Military Influence
Is Seen In Styles
In Shoes This Year
Shoes for beau brummel have
changed but little since last Yuletide,
except that the military influence has
become more dominant-resulting in
plain toes and heavier soles.
The dark antique finish is still fav-
ored. Scotch grain, that old standby,
holds its own, along with perennial,
indestructible wing tips. Pointed toes
are frowned upon for daytime wear:
the blunter the better.

May we suggest'
as ChristmasGft-

s.
-
_- , '

Candies..6
for your mother
or girt friend

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If it's a gift conveying the holiday spirit of Christmas that you
are looking for, candy it IT. The rich deliciousness of a box of
WHITMAN'S or GILBERT'S CHOCOLATES or the crisp flavor
of a box of ever popular DOUBLE K NUTS will be well appreciated
by all. As a Christmas gift, candies and nuts can't be beat.

Gif est
FOR MIIER.. .
Gift Sets -- Revlon, Old Spice, Evening in
Paris, Coty, Yardley, Cutex. Fountain Pens
and Pencils'.'
FOR HIM...
Old Spice, Lentheric, Ya'rdley gift sets.
Cigars, cigarettes, tobacco, pipes, cigarette
lighters, tobacco pouches.
FOR THE FAMILY...
Gilbert's and Schrafft's chocolates in holi-
day wrappings.

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Pipes.
for Dd
or the hoy friend*
Give a man a PIPE AND TOBACCO.
Watch him contentedly light up,
relax, and thoroughly enjoy a real'
smoke. You'll be glad you gave
him a pipe -ano so will he. It's a Christmas gift which will be
remembered and appreciated long after the Christmas holidays

are past.
xSt

/

Cosmetics. *,o for

"her"

PERFUMES, LIPSTICKS, CLEANSING CREAMS - all make dis-
tinctive- gifts for "her". But you must be certain that you buy
only those fine cosmetics that are known for their pureness,
Come in and let us help you with this problem. By handling only
nationally' advertised brands such as Lucien Lelong TAILSPIN,
Schaiparelli's SHOCKING, Lanvin's MY SIN, and dozens of
others. We assure you that at Calkins-Fletcher's you will get
only those cosmetics that have a uniformly high quality.
Com. he . * look ound

.CA icke f -t

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It
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A nice shoe is the plain calf-and-
medallion-tip. Rubber soles have
mounted in popularity-those grand-
ly thick, spongey rubber soles.
Moccasins are in demand for sheer
comfort and that Joe College flair.

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