TIE MICHICAN DAILY

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Fashion Goes
'About-Face'
In New Trend
Designers Will Lengthen Skirts
And Raise Necklines As Style
Predicts What Will Be Worn
By JEAN GILMER
When you stop to analyze the cur-
renit trends, taking into consideration
such details as necklines, shoulder
and sleeve treatment, waistlines and
slirtlines, fashion narrows down to
this:
Biggest news is the plunging hem-
line, cousin to the deep neckline we
wore last spring. t's the skirt whose
hem seems to dip in irregular folds
down-in-back; the additional inches
there are possibly startling to the un-
initiated observer at first glance, so
here's fair warning!
Hemlines Plunge!
This new hemline may well be in-
dicative of a trend towards longer
skirts, for designers are sponsoring
the new mid-length in both daytime
and evening dresses. Skirts have been
getting progressively shorter until
now they barely hide the knees, but
the new length may well be more
than just an abortive attempt to
start skirts once more on the down-
grade. Better watch for develop-
ment !
Speaking of necklines, the cowl
would seem to inspire possibilities for
unusual uIse of jewelry because of its
soft drapery. The classic notched col-
lar is now popping up on just about
every third dress in keeping with the
trend toward tailored clothes that is
a result perhaps of our growing de-
fense-fonsciousness. Then ve have
the dickey, ever beloved for its prac-
ticality. It's bee} raised now out of
the sweater and skirt class to team
up with the shirt-waist dress for
school a d office.
oulders Go Natural4
Necklines are getting higher-
which is just like fickle fashion, go-
ing from one extreme to the other ast
usual. The high surplice and thet
traditional cardigan front are idic-
ative of this trend.
Shoulders and sleevelines are mak-
mg jome radical departures from the1
precedent set by the well-padded,e
squared-off look of the past fewr
years. -Now it's dropped" shoulders
with the normal curve of the femin-
ine shoulder being emphasized. We
could say just sloping shoulders in
general, but what moan will admit vol-
untarily that his football build may
only be attributed to careful tailorng
and cotton padding?
New interest in shoulder treatment
is noted in almost too constant use of
glitter to dazzle the admiring eye.4
Jewels, sequins and paillettes accent
dark nubby fabrics and seem tp n-
crust many of the dressier afternoon
and dinner dresses.,
Dolman Involves Change
The mndarin sleeve, seven-eighths
length and loose just above the wrist,1
and the dolman sleeve, a style which
involves a structural change in dress-
making because of its very deep fit-1

Here They Are: The Winter's Trends

Prices

Go

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On Available
Silk Stockings
Scientists To Perfect Bemberg
Substitute For Silk; Lisle Hose
Only Replacement On Market
By GERTRUDE CLUBB
Since the day why;. it. was no
longer considered vulgar or immoral
for girls to go bare-legged, there has
been an increasing trend toward an-
kle socks without hose, for sports-
wear, and toward sun-baking the legs
in the summer to give the impression
2f hose.
Each alternative has been a matter
of personal choice and there has al-
ways been a plentiful supply of silk
hose for everyone, whether or not'

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Unusual Beacds
Muke Definfte
Fashion Not
Campus vogue is no longer sweat-
ers 'n skirts but sweaters and skirts
'n beads. To appear on campus in a
sweater and skirt without at leastr
a string of pearls around your neck
is practically unheard of.-

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they chose to wear them.
But modern warfare and inter-

'Biggest Twosome On Campus'
Wear Matching Sport Clothes

national relations have considerably
altered the situation and for the first'
time in history womankind is faced
with a new sort of silk stocking prob-

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tem.

Thus in catering to this new whim,
designers have pooled their ingenu-
ity and produced necklaces in every
color, size and shape imaginable. A
recent adaptation has been the long
string of widow pearls worn almost
down to the waist (incidentally serv-
ing doubleduty by being looped
round a couple of times and worn.
with your date dresses.)
Dyed macaroni in appetizing colors
can be found and strung to marry1
well with any unusual shade of yarn.
Have yourself a gay rainbow string
to wear on your white sweaters.
Along the edible lines, cern too is put
up in attractive strands for a dash
of originality.
Chunky red beads make a splash
of color on any somber sweater (es-
pecially striking with black). Round
up those old Mexican or Indian beads
you bought on your vacation last
summer and you'll have everyone
green with envy at your exclusive-
ness.
For your pastel sweaters, scout;
around the five and ten toy counter
for baby "string your own" beads-
inexpensive, but different. Single
strands of fine corals are especially
feminine for you petite ones.
Have mother fish out those old
fashioned crystal beads of hers next
time you're home; they'll be just the
thing to accent your new plaid skirt.
Shiny metal necklaces concocted
of hundreds of nickel, silver or gold
links add a dramatic touch to your
costume.
Blouse-Slip Praised
As New Timesaver

Livouli noliced that particular-
ly attractive couple waltzing hand,
in hand through the diagonal? Of
course, you know what it is that
makes them appear so outstanding.
The fact may be attributed to the
matching top coats they are wear-
ing.
The idea of dressing alike has be-
come quite popular on this and other
campuses throughout the country. It
is an easy matter to convince your
one-and-only that he should pur-
chase a Glen plaid suit like the one
he has admired on you, or a camel's
hair jacket which would be a twin
of the treasure you invested in this
summer.
Buy In Twos
For a starter, you, who are two,
might purchase identical sleeveless
sweaters. They have been found in
green, yellow, and other shades.
Combine these with his gabardine
slacks and your gabardine skirt.
Then, if you are industrious, it is
possible to hunt down matching
argyle socks. Finish off the outfit
with white shirts. The professor you
have for English will be convinced
you are the cleverest couple he has
ever seen in his 30 years of teaching.
If you have interests in the army,
do not forget that fact on your next
shopping tour. Heed might be paid
to the covert cloth jackets. Many
are styled like the one of that hand-

time ieuitenl nt you admiire tHis
summer. Overseas caps, military
great-coats, and capes will be in-
triguing compliments for his uni-
form.
Get Matching Outfits
Perhaps you both indulge in the
sport of kings, horseback riding.
Identical hound's-tooth check jack-
ets with corresponding jodhpurs and
accessories guarantee admiring glan-
ces fr'om everyone-including the
horses.
Here is a closing hint for future
reference. Have youxr spring suits
tailored out of the same fabric. You
will make a striking .picture in the
Easter Parade. But you'd better be
sure of your man before you invest in
a suit!
Perhaps this growing fad will bring
about a new title: namely, B.T.O.C.
.biggest twosome on campus).
London 'Influence
Is Shown In Boots
Direct from London are two new
boot styles that are destined tQ gain
campus popularity. One is a high
shoe model that laces up the front-,
Of green, red and tan plaid wool, they
are lined and cuffed with lamb's wool
and set on pigskin platforms.
The other is a high, step-in boot of
Munro plaid wool set into a pigskin-
shoe. It has leopard cuffs and a
lamb's wool 'lining.

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Prices Going Up
Many have the false impression
th'at there is a silk stocking short-,
age. There are plenty of stockings to
be had but prices have gone up from
ten to twenty-five per cent. The
choice is somewhat limited, also, and
one local merchant explained this by
saying that he did not even order. the
hose in his stocks-'the dealers simply
apportion their supply in proportion
to the sales of the various stores, in
preceding years.
Although there is no serious short-
age of silk hose now. it has long been
anticipated that the silk supply would
dwin I le. Nylons were introduced as
a sub titute but nylon is used in war
materials and only small quantities
can be spared for use in hose.
Already nylons have gone up 33%
in price, although there are some
available at former prices with cottor
tops. Some stores are not even able
to stock them and can obtain themr
only on special order wlqich takes twC
weeks.
Lisle Is Substitute

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ting in the armhole, are sleeve lines
that are. being borrowed or revived
from past fashions.
The waistline's the 'thing as far
as fashion .emphasis . is concerned.
It's the long, molded torso look which
eliminates belts and thickness at the
natural waist and *Ats the line any-
where from the hips to the dia-
phragm, without once letting the ob-
server forget the fact that a well-
for~ned 'figger is present.
Therefore, we have the long middy,
borrowed from the sailor but a far
cry from the garb of the salty old tar.
Other waist emphasis in this winter's
dresses is created by tucks and mold-
ed drapery or swathing about the
midriff. The peplum, so capable -of
creating that illusion of a petite
middle, is still with us in the form of
a slight flare just above the hips.
Dirndl's Our Pet!'
Aside from the dramatic new semi-
long skirt which the New York cou-
turers are introducing for don't dress
evenings, there is the perennial dirndl,
the college gal's pet. No longer is its
use restricted to very informal
dresses; it blossoms forth in crepe
and vglvet, even to the extent of
being the silhouette of the new ballet
dance dress with its. hem reaching
just to the ankles.
In sharp contradiction to the full-
skirt tendency are the tunic that juts
out slightly 'over apencil slim skirt,
and the knife or unpressed-pleated
skirt. Oriental influence combines
with a revival of the fashions of the
.first World War to make the harem
drape, a skirt which stresses fullness
over the hips, narrow{Lng at knee-
length. It's the same idea as the peg-
topped skirts our mothers used to
mince and hobble about in.
So that's the fashion story, includ-
ing the extremes in silhouettes for
those who like to be extreme, and the
middle of the road look for the aver-
age woman. This is 'what you'll be
wearing for winter, '41.

Rayon Versatile
As Appropriate
Silk Substitute
Rayon, wonder child of past sea-
sons, has accepted its defense role of
chief silk substitute with mature poise
and versatility.
Let no stereotyped vision of reems
of rayon crepe mislead you. This, one
of the ihost popular of rayon fabrics,
is fir from the only 'rayon star of
the season. Crisp rayon moire gives
glamour with a swish, especially in
dark full skirted creations, with long
waisted bodices that fit tightly to em-
phasize the sudden puff at the gath-
ered skirt line. Rayon taffeta, a sis-
ter fabric with a smoother finish, is
more popular for whispering slips
and petticoats.
Used For Formals
Most popular wedding gown fab-'
ric of the season is creamy-white
rayon satin-but that's not the whole
story. Every type of evening creation
has found a medium in rayon. Pastel
chiffons are now mainly manufac-
tured in rayon, while the most shim-
mering net skirts are woven from
rayon yarns. The chances are, in
fact, that the satin slips beneath them
came from the same basic material.
For those who prefer more sophis-
ticated evening styles there is still no
despairing over the silk shortage. Let
the little worms spin coverings for the
navy's balloons -you will look far
more slender in draped rayon jersey.
Black, bright red, and white are given
dramatic expression in this classic
fabric, usually with a pleated bodice,
fitted waistband and gathered skirt

Substitutes for silk are being tried,
the only one on the market so far
being lisle. The lisle stockings are
very serviceable but even the sheerest
looks like a seven thread hose. They
are being manufactured in various
cplors of the rainbow which "might
possibly introduce a new fad. The
lisle mesh hose, on the market in
small quantities, are much sheerer
but still serviceable.
Scientists are also working on a
bemberg substitute which ought to
be as good as, yr better than, nylon.
In the meantime we must make the
most of the situation and conserve
on our hose as much as possible by
avoiding splintery benches and snag-
gy fingrenails.
that molds to the figure as it falls
smoothly in to the lines of motion.
Stripes of alternating rayon fab-
rics give texture interest to evening
wear though a single color is main-
tained. First a wide band of rayon
faille, then a stripe of taffeta is the
formula for one attractive black for-
mal.
Rayon Imitates Wool
Silk may be really scarce, but wool
is on the "less frequently used" list,
and rayon does its best to help out
here too. Many dresses, and even light
coats and suits, are being made with
a wool and rayon mixture, which has,
a sheen quite distinctive and differ-
ent from plain- wool. For lightweight
dresses spun rayon gives an imitation
of wool challis-and is naturally more
suitable for the budget wardrobe.


All you efficiency experts who lay
out your clothes the night before so
you can make that eight o'clock on
time, will please come to attention on
this new fashion note. There's now on
the marlet a combination blouse and
slip which has all the advantages of
both articles and none of the bunch-
ing shirttails and falling shoulder
straps which are the most annoying
disadvantages.
Besides cutting down your dressing
time and simplifying the underwear
problem, the adjustable hem in this
handy little combination eliminates
pinning and hemming. Juste snip off
a couple of scallops and the mite can
wear her big sister's outfit with the
greatest of ease.
You can wear this tw%-piece one-
piecer with your jumpers, pinafores
and skirts.

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Q u e, M-fo r a n i g h t ! ,
And whether your crowning glory for INTER..
FRATERNITY BALL is a mass of soft curls,
or a sleek low-slung bob, let us enhance its beauty
by expert styling.
Blue Bird Beauty Shop
No. 5 NicHoLs ARCADE

'ATP
AREN'T ENOUGH to win her
love. Be sure to send FLOWERS.
Phone 4422
VARSITY
FLOWER SHOP
1116 South University Ave.

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(9X

40,4
for the
Today's most
favored styles
for the
well-dressed coed
Dresses, Gowns, Sportswear,
Hosiery, Lingerie,
Accessories

NIGHT

and DAY

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$1

es

Luxurious comfort

in a

TOMORROW the merchants of Ann Ar-

robe that'Il be the envy
of the whole dorm . .. It
makes a wonderful gift
.and we have all sorts
of lovely lingerie for you.
Y

bor and The

Michigan

Daily present a

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pre-viewsof the newest winter fashions.
Fashion-wise co-eds will want to be pres-
ent at this first showing of the pick of

Ann Arbor's finest shops.
MICHIGAN THEATRE
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 1941

4:15 P.M.

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