PAGt TWO

I~tEM1CLJiANDAILY_

F'RMbAY, flECEMBfEAR 6, 1940


h

Basic

Styles

Remain;

Accessories,

Trims

Differ

For

Winter



Hats Indicate
Most Radical
StyleChange
Swing To Off-The-Face
Wear Is Noted Especially
In Eastern Colleges
By WILLIAM NEWTON
With winter-the season when
men's clothes are at their stylish best
-well underway, the attention of the
university man is focussed more than
ever on the question of what to buy
and where to wear it.
Styles have changed since last year
-but not enough to make the 1939
topcoat out of date in 1940, nor .even
the 1938 suit passe in 1941. The basic'
articles have remained substantial-
ly the same. Details, accessories and
trims are different.
Most radically changed of all ar-
ticles of men's clothing are hats.
Despite all the conseratively dressed
Michigan men can do, there is a read-
ily noticeable swing to the Joe Col-
lege tyne of off-the-face hats for
the male of the species, especially in
the eastern states.
Homburg is Popular
The Homburg-the standby for
semi-formal wear-is still the out-
standing example of the brim-up
head cover. College students, follow-
ing the lead .of the older generation,
are beginning to wear Homburgs to
classes, downtown-in fact, for gen-
eral daytime use-instead .of only
on formal and semi-formal evening
occasions.
The brim-up felt-long associated
with only the type of college man
found on the covers of popular mag-
azines or with high school seniors-
is getting a strong play from univer-
sity students in the east, and it is
even +beginning to make inroads on
the sedate University campus.
Pork-Pie For Roughing It
Deservedly in first place for knock-
about wear are the pork pie models
of gabardine or corduroy. They are
ugly to behold, consequently almost
damage-proof-and (best of all) very
warm. Owners report that the best
feature of these hats is the fact that
they can be rolled into a compact wad
and tucked into an overcoat pocket
while theowner is in class.
The influence of improved pan-
American relations is reflected by the
increased use of hand-woven hat
bands made by the Mayan Indians
of Guatemala. These native-color
bands appeared on straws last sum-
mer and-proved to be very popular.
They make top-notch bands for sport
felts worn in the fall and winter.
Emphasis on Formal Wear
Throughout the nation, the empha-
sis seems to be on formal clothes.
Americans, staring the realities of
conscription, war bulletins and war
legislation in the face, are cutting a
wide swath of night life, and they
are appearing more than ever in
toppers and tails-or at least the old
reliable tuxedo.
Although "buy midnight blue" is
good advice for prospective purchas-
ers of evening clothes, there has been
no really new development in the
evening'or dinner garb line. Fashion
experts are sticking-rather sensibly
-to "don'ts" and well meant advice.
Rules for Tail Coat
With the tail-coat, they decree,
trousers should be straight and well-
hung, not billowing and baggy like
those of the slick-haired gigolo who
dances so swoopingly with the dow-
agers. And the coat itself should be
restricted as to length-have it term-,

irate at the bend of the knees, and
no one will accuse you of being a part
of the floor show.
Incidentally, the white vest worn
with formal wear should NOT pro-
trude below the bottom of the coat.
The places where plenty of white
ought to show are at the cuffs and
collar of the tailcoat, where brilliant
white cuffs and tall starched col-
lar should be very much in evidence.
Another little touch which serves
to distinguish the paying customer
from the headwaiter is to be found
in the way the customer lets the,
points of his wing collar protrude
(Continued on Page 4)

How To Collar Your Heartthrob
With A Tie In One Easy Lesson

Men's Sportswear Has Gained
Wide FollowingIn Recent Years

By ROBERT MANTHO
Talking about women's hats, what
are the boys wearing in the line of
neckties nowadays?
All the girls are absolutely dying
to know, especially with the Merry
Yuletide just around the corner and
a sparkling fraternity pin hanging in
the balance. Whether or not the fra-
ternity pin will make a quick (andi
always unexpected) transfer from a
dirty white shirt to an almost trans-
parent white blouse will depend heav-
ily upon the choice of necktie made
by the ambitious girlfriend. For boys
have been known to assert their will
at the most embarrassing times-and
a necktie can be the "will-strength-
ener" in many cases.
The truth of the matter, however,
is that the manly male "critters" don't
know what type of tie to wear- if
they wear such things in the first
place. Everything and anything would
be the best way to describe their
tastes.
How Neckties Vary
Accordingly, neckties are found to
vary from a solid black creation
which has a provocative tendency to
gather lint in the most amazing man-
ner (one of the few complaints of
the ROTC boys who seem to be solidly
united in their predilection for black
ties while on the march or in the
presence of a commanding officer) to
a brilliant, heterogeneous rainbow
rhapsody in C minor, which never
fails to bring admiring "ohs" and
"ahs" from heavily camouflaged fem-
inine lips.
Poplin ties are in-even the girls
will admit that. And Heaven knows,
haven't they asked all the boyfriends
of the boyfriends of THE boyfriend
with the pin? Silk nets on the con-
servative side also rate a smile of ap-

preciation from any male who knows
his ties, although most gals have a
personal distaste for the "horrid fril-
ly-frayed things."
"Frilly-fray" or Alice Faye, be sure
to send silk nets when Christmas
stockings are hung by the fireplace,
girls; then you can date whomever
you will without the gnawing fear
of being seen by the "one and only"
when you least expect an encounter.
For if silk nets don't bring a fratern-
ity pin in the next mail, a new ap-
proach on the subject must be made.

in extreme cases to hang himself by
the neck- until either the plaid or the
neck gives in.
One thing more, girls. A word about
color is necessary before Christmas
shopping is done by proxy (Yes,
another little angel!)
Unless you have dated the boy-
friend the proper number of times
required to memorize his complete
wardrobe, let the pin go until spring!
For, if the young man is a new-
comer to the ranks of the fortunate,
it will be too expensive an undertak-
ing for you. In such a case, the proper
suit must be picked along with the
tie which is to match it!

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Haiidkerchiefs Are Fine,
Inexpensive Xmas Gifts
If you seek an unassuming and in-
expensive gift to solve your Christ-
mas problem, handkerchiefs will pro-
vide a welcome answer.
Handkerchiefs are best given in the
more prosaic white, so that the donor
will not risk offending the recipient's
possible sensitivity of taste. The fin-
er styles of hand-stitched linen hand-
kerchief are certain to be appreciated.
For those who wish to select a
handkerchief that will be a dashing
supplement to any ensemble, there
are almost limitless choices.

By DAN BEHRMAN
Men's sportswear, which once con-
sisted of a dirty shirt and a resur-
rected pair of pants, has been steadily
gaining popularity within the past
few years. The most recent styles in
this field have gone a long way to-
wards filling the active man's demand
for appearance, comfort and utility in
his sportswear.
The manufacturers, recognizing
the mushroom growth of the old
Dutch pastime of keggling, have in-
tro4.uced a bowling shirt available in
a variety of bright and subdued col-
ors. Snap-fastened cuffs, underarm
ventilation eyelets, and box-pleated
flap-pockets do not guarantee a three
hundred score, but they promise the
bowling enthusiast more confort and
freedom.
Jackets Show Imagination
In the line of outdoor jackets, there
is ample evidence of imagination and
ingenuity. A combination windbreak-
sr and rain jacket should suit the
)utdoor man who cannot be deterred
from his putter or fly rod by the
weather. Moderately priced, it fea-
cures raglan sleeves, barrel cuffs with
storm proof vents, and elastic at the
sides for a snug fit. Its water repel-
lent material has been chemically
processed to withstand wind, rain,
perspiration and dry cleaning,
It's quite the vogue to be two-faced
in today's world and reversible jack-
ets need only the approval of Muss-
olini, Hitler and Stalin to make their
acceptance unanimous. An all wool
sports flannel model illustrates this
trend. It's made with zippered fly
ront, diagonal storm pockets, and ad-
justable straps on cuffs and bottom.
This double purpose garment comes
in blue with tan on reverse, green
with fawn, teal with tan, or luggager
with green. Gabardine, suede and
aristocratic all-wool herringbone are
also offered in this style.
Ski-Jackets for Warmth
Some incubator-bred souls open
the draft a bit more and drape them-
selves around the nearest radiator

when they see the telltale white flakes
flying, but not the outdoor type. A
warm, light weight all wool ski jack-
et suits him fine when he is slaloming
down the nearest slope on his run-
ners. Extension buttons on the cuff,
and elastic sides at the bottom serve7
to keep the warmth in and the wind
out when wearing this model.
The average college man is anJ
odds-on favorite to add a new beaver
suede loafer jacket to his wardrobe.
This item comes in camel, green, lug-
gage and teal solid colors, or in two-
tone combinations calculated to com-
plement the family sedan.
Gabardine Still KingF
Ever-popular gabardine reigns in
the field of sports shirts. A typical
model is tailored of spun rayon gab-
ardine, with three button western-
type cuffs, two flap pockets and
ocean: pearl flat-top shank buttons
on pockets, front and cuffs. A wide
color range offers royal blue, green,
tan, wheat, cadet blue, luggage, grey,
and forest green in this model.
Dressed up in long sleeves, the
slack suit is being offered for fall
use next year. Though the wearer
may still be barred from certain
passenger elevators, he will be a lot
more comfortable than his stodgier
brethren. A fly front shirt with con-
cealed zipper in this line strikes dire
forebodings of things to come.
King's Tailor Gives
FashionOpinions
Harry Benson, tailor to His majesty
King George VI of England, has at
fe wopinions on the current trend in
men's fashions. Stripes are here to
stay, he says, as well as the three-
button jacket.
His Majesty's, own tastes, declared
Benson, are impeccable. "Of course,"
he says, "His Majesty is conservative
in dress, but let it not be said that he
is old fashioned. Well turned-out
Englishmen never are. Moreover,
such men care little forstyle as such.
They want to be 'properly dressed'
rather than 'well dressed'."

!

III

Zippers Seem Ready
To. Replace Buttons
Zippers and other mechanical de-
vices seem to be definitely on the road
toward replacing buttons this season
in men's attire.
Men's trousers are fastened neatly
with ease by means of zipping de-
vices, which are available now on al-
most any brand of trousers. A Christ-
mas hint: if you're going to the ex-
pense of buying him a pair of trous-
ers, see that they have a zipper.
The new shorts for men are fas-
tened by snap fasteners, or grippers,
another step in the drive to replace
the prosaic button.

111

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IF THE PROBLEM CHILD
IJR LIST IS A MALE .

ON YO

GIFTS
TO PLEASE CHRISTMAS BUDGETS
Here's a selection of appropriate gifts that will help you
solve that cost problem for Xmas presents.

Buy your Christmas gift for him before you go home for the
holidays, at Stadel & Walker. If you do it will pay dividends
in his personal enjoyment because, being in business in Ann
Arbor for so many years, we know how to cater to the individ-
ual taste of the Michigan man better than the merchant in
your home town.

Beau Brummel $1.00
Others 2 for $1.00
p '\t
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Shapely Shirts
$1.65 to $1.85

$1.00 to $1.50

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Pure Linen
25c - 35c

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Cooper's Underwear Pajamas
35c - 50c $1.65 to $3.50

Ritz
1.59

Shirts
to 2.00

Gloves
Lined and Unlined

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Lined and Unlined Robes.

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