FASHION SUPPLEMENT SicF ANN ARBOR, MICHIGAN, WEDNESDAY, NOV. 8, 1939 Crepe Dress Of Bright Blue1 Is F !soci a I ef Classic Black Takes Lead For Smart Day Wear; DesignsSuit All Types Slightly Modified DirndlsReappear There comes a time in the life of every woman when she must tuck away the sweater and skirt and bid farewell to the saddle-shoes. For that fraternity dance, perhaps a day in Detroit, or maybe a faculty dinner, every college woman needs at least one smart afternoon dress. Intall colors, from the classic back, which leads for daytime wear, to browns, from beige to chocolate, the next favorite of the season, there are mustard, pale blue, olive green and all others: the latest fashions to fit the taste of the most conserva- tive to the most audacious of women. The Parisian Type The Parisian silhouette this year is less typed than never before. For the taller woman, there is a double swing skirt with that graceful flut- ter; for-the very slender, ultra-sophis- ticate the new "cigarette silhouette," with a steep apron flounce, coiling up the side of, the dress. For the most superb of dates, any of these will prove a favorite. For the not too slender woman, as sleek stream- lining is perfect. With front full- ness, waist-swathing sash, broad shoulders, and bracelet sleeves, this dress is a sure stimulus to the stag- line. The "femme fatale" -will love the non-frilly afternoon dresswith moul- ded bodice and corselet-like quilt- ing to draw in the waistline, or a simple-lined black crepe dress to highlight costume jewelry. Black and gold are afavorite dinner couple, and one of the great stars of the sea- son is black rayon taffeta, either with an accordion pleated skirt, or with tiny panniers after a Velasquez por- trait. Any Color Is Smart Day or night, the woman of 193 may be in almost any color or cor- binatioti of colors, brightened with the most dazzling sort of frippery. A French designer offers his now fam- ous Robin Hood red and green tie- up for the vivid damsels; there is the new bluish Winter Green for milk-skinned beauties; and a hold- over of cyclamen and electric-blue. Supple, drapable jerseys and thesoft woolens are the leading daytime fabrics. The dirndl skirt isback again, this time a bit modified in a Basque frock (Co~tinueor an page 3) 'Party Dress,' 1939Version, Is Strictly New Wool And Brocades Offer Variety In Wrap Fabrics Featuring Military Effect By EIANOR SEVISON Glamour and femininity take their stand in formal evening attire if at no other time in the modern college girl's wardrobe, and the 1939 de- signers have made no exceptions in the multitude of creations they have turned out to match the soft lights and "party" air which go with a formal evening. Wraps have gained a new em- phasis as they appear in the old standby-velvet, and newer mater- ials of wool, brocade and rich furs. Velvet wraps come in blacks, blues, dark greens, and for those who will limit their formal gowns to match- shades. of wine and brighter red. Capes are popular as well as princess model floor-length coats, and the wraps may be trimmed in white fur or not. Wool has reached a new height this season in the variety of colors and styles in which it is being used. One model is in warm red, floor- length, trimmed in black button loops giving military effect which is heightened by an epaulet treat- ment of the shoulders. Then bright blue is rich-looking in wool, and one model attains in- dividuality by a round collar in white Samantha, The Fashion Plate,. On My Ten Years In College' I _________________________________ By ESTHER OSSER This is the story of Samantha the Smarty, campus smoothie in A2 in, those far-off days when habitues of Wall Street still wrote checks to their offspring in college instead of letters. Now you may think that Saman- tha's record was a phenomenal one, and if you're referring to the fact that she managed to find enough variety in the changing male popula- tion to keep her interested for 10 years, you're right. But if you think she's extraordinary just because she managed to keep the male popula- tion interested in her for the same period, you're not only a traitor and a member of a certain obnoxiously, feline species, but a gal who has failed to take stock of the variable re- sources in the situation-and we don't mean face-lifting. Clothes And The Women Clothes, you'll find, are the answer with each year bringing a new flock of fashions that makes last year's' favorites look like the Michigan team at the Illinois game. (unpaid adv.) For instance, back in 1929, when Samantha attended the formal open- ing of the Russian Tea-Room in the 'League, she wore either a georgette or canton dress which fell loosely from the shoulders to the waist but narrowed down markedly from there on. It was quite likely to have an uneven hemline, and ruffles, too, to add a touch of festivity and distinc- tiveness. Her shoes were beige kid, high heeled one-straps, with round toes, and dark turn-backs on the straps. She wore a snug-fitting hat that was advertised as "framing the face," but which in retrospect, and with all due respect to the "twenty-niners," looked rather like a deep bowl made out of felt and clamped on the cranium to keep any part of it from getting cold. And this can, by no stretch of the imagination, be conceived as the function of the hats one sees now- adays. On campus, little pleated skirts, fitted on a yoke, were . worn with tuck-in blouses or "whoopee" sweaters of a complementary color. The Long And Short Of It In 1930, Samantha had herself a problem, for skirt lengths were not of a universal length no matter what the costume, (excluding evening wear) but had to be adjusted to a variety of daytime occasions. For sport clothes, the fashionable miss shortened her skirts so that they reached just to the upper calf. For daytime wear generally, the criterion was the middle calf, semi-formal clothes' lengths down to the lower calf, and formals were worn at ankle- length. Belts were made smaller to fit waistlines that year, instead of hip- lines, and the favorites were made of metal, or rhinestone with ivory and enamel buckles. Handbags for formal wear were smaller than pre- 'viously, while larger frameless, or with covered frame, bags were feat- ured for daytime use. Even Long Gloves evening gowns, worn to the Frosh Frolic of 1931, at which Glen Gray and the Casa Loma band were the featured performers (hint, hint!) proved enough to bring out the best in every girl, and our heronie Sa- mantha was no exception. Her dress was a long, graceful model in deep red, unadorned except for a long cor- sage worn at the shoulder. She wore 16-button length evening gloves, and sported a filmy chiffon dance hand- kerchief. A new crepe frock, featuring a clinging silhouette, definitely dated Samantha as a "smarty" in 1932. She wore it to teas, coke dates, and classes and when it was cold out, she also (Continued on Page 2) Wool Dresses/ Of All Shades Are Popular By DORIS CUTHBERT What will you wear to campus teas? How will you go to town? What will be right for the weekend game date? The answer to all these questions and many like ones is found in the woolen afternoon dress. You can wear a woolen with the confidence ,that you will. be -neiter under-nor over-dressed. Fall fashions in review show many varied and dif- ferent styles of afternoon dresses with woolens predominent at every show- ing. The trend this season is toward cloths of gossamer-ike texture. Fine- ly-woven, light-weight materials are dressy enough for your best date and durable enough for the ball games. Almost every color is good this fall, especially black, scarlet, green, rust and wine. Spring is rushing its sea- son this year with the appearance of blue among the fall and early winter colors. Blue loses much of its coolness when made up in soft, warm woolen materials. Both front fullness and back full- ness, or combinations of the two are equally chic this season. Front full- ness is often stressed inafternoon frocks by bodice; and skirt gathers, mad more effective when used with the fashionable "wasp waists." The "Gay Nineties" triumph again with the advent of slim, princess fronts and full, bustle-backs. Most full-backed dresses are plain Above the waistline. This season marks the first appearance of "bustle" pleats, and when combined with the classic shi'tf rock design and fashioned out of wool, this new style makes an ideal outfit for casual afternoon wear. New Modes Are Popular In Sw~eaters Traditional Campus Wear Proves Boon To Budget; Is Ultimate In Comfort Evening Highlights Softly Knit Beauty By MARY HAYDEN Sweaters take the lead in topping the lady's preference list in the ward- robe pickings, not by a margin but by a mile, for short sweaters and long ones, that have long sleeves or short, are worn by thin women, and women. Indeed, sweaters are the mainstay or every college women's wardrobe. That Sweater Tradition Sweater tradition is a strong one and has been conspicuous on the fashion page, hence on the co-ed, for many years. It probably all started when some campus queen actually got cold, or broke from cleaners' bills for pretty woolen dresses, and decided to do something about it. What would be more logical than a sweater? Cer- tainy they are wormer, comfortable and easy to wash. Perhaps she felt a little self-concious at first, with everyone else still in dresses, until she realized she was starting a fad. But what a fad .. . it's, still going strong. Now, there are really and truly cases where a college woman will flee to her room in the middle of the day and seek out a sweater and skirt, feeling that all eyes must have been upon her all morning because she had ventured to go to classes in a dress. Smoothies Wear Them Let's just take note of what the smoothies are wearing in the way of these knitted phenomena. The va- riety and colors found in the sweater catagory are enough to make anyone sit up and take notice. Angora is one of the most popular and striking of all the fabrics. Any- one who is out to look really glamor- ous, and romantic has only to wear one of these fluffy, utterly feminine sweaters to get her man. That is if gets the right kind of angora .. the kind that 'doesn't shed. If she doesn't get the ron-shedIder she may have just the opposite effect on the man of her dreams. You know, like the woman who was beautiful until she smiled. Anyway, angora is especially attractive on the small or thin person to give the appearance of being slight- ly heavier. White and pastel shades are becoming to everyone, while bright shades are very striking too. Brooks For The Sophisticate Sleek and sophisticated is the girl in the Brooks classic. This beautiful (Continued on Page 2) White, Summer Headline News, Hits Winter High With the introduction of Novem- ber comes the season of black and white dresses. Nothing, in the opin- ion of fashion experts, is smarter than this combination. Sparkling white with black worn under a som- ber winter coat gives an effect of exquisite grooming. The new white turbans contribute this season to the black and white theme. Especially flattering are the softly draped velvet ones which "top" a black fur coat very stylish- ly" White kid gloves complete this smart costume. 'Down With Rain!' Feminine .Reaction To Town's Weather Drip! Drip! Drip! And for a change this expression is not referring to 'Michigan men. Yesterday, one watching the stu- dents 'tread their weary way from class to class, would swear that each and every one was suffering from a stiff neck. But suchjwas not the case. The rains 'had just come. A 'slight bend of the head forward would invite a stream of cold water to trickle down some unsuspecting person's neck., Peeves are numerous when Ann Arbor steps into form with its tradi- tional weather. Hair falls, feet get wet, and pleats come out of skirts. 'Friendly dogs are no longer welcome, at least when they jump on coats with muddy paws. Friends splash your stockings when they walk beside 'you and cars splash as high as they can reach. Ah, what makes the flowers that bloom in the Spring? Rain. Moralists have always claimed that clothes don't make the man, but practically every fashion-wise woman has been disproving that statement since Cleopatra's beaded finery first caught Antony's eye. Off-hand we can think of three good reasons why clothes are something more 'to most women than just interference from north winds. The most obvious answer is that they are an unbeatable means of hiding one's shortcomings and highlighting one's good points, face- and-figuratively speaking. Another good reason why clothes are important is because they're pretty apt to influence their wearer, whether she knows it or not. It may be a sad commentary on the race, but its still a fact that life's grimmest moments are a bit more livable if one faces them well-dressed. In fact our hero has been George Washington ever since our fourth grade teacher told us how shabby his uniform was when he crossed the Delaware to attack the gents in those pretty red coats. The point is that even if you shouldt be with one of those few great souls who don't care how you look, he'll love you better if you're looking your best simply because the subconscious lift you get will make you better company. First Impression Is Important .. . JTo apply this idea to the fashion problem, white helps create an impression of innocence and naivete,' while black tends to give an illusion of worldliness and sophistication. Blue is a - ,I Gifts Of Stationery, Desk Sets, Music Boxes Lauded By Ann Arbor "Buyers" By SHIRLEY SILVERI Ann Arbor, Michigan Saturday afternoon Dear Miss Adams, Orchids to you for sending me on this buying trip. (But please address all my future mail to the poorhouse!) I've spent the past two days roaming the shops, and have come to the con- clusion that college towns are tops for beautiful gifts. I've seen things for men, women, children; for birth- days, showers, weddings, convales- censes, Christmas, or for Just any old time. I've seen-but, let me tell you just what I'm so enthusiastic about. I think I'll begin with stationery first. That seems a good note (par- don!) to start on. Needless to say, when a person corresponds as much as I usually do, all stationery begins to look alike, after a while. .But I've found several things which are really single sheets. The set was very fem- inine and exclusive looking. A very popular gift here is the regular white stationery which comes in wooden boxes, handmade by master crafts- men, and which may be, used for many purposes long after the sta- tionery has vanished. For men, there was a box of hand- some off-white paper and envelopes, through which ran a shadow-plaid. The sheets were single, of course, and there were a great many of them. Note paper is very attractive this year, too. There were two very out- standing kinds; one a white, with a dainty maroon and gray edging, and the other, a rose-glow shade, with a white deckle edge. With Fraternity Crests Then the stationery featuring sor- ority and fraternity crests, the kind that may be monogrammed over ger and better. One scrapbook built for use as well as attractiveness, had a wooden cover which was attached to the pages by means of hinges. Another, much more expensive, had a beautiful soft leather cover, with a very fine grade of paper filler; a scrapbook which cannot be highly enough recommended for those who want permanence as well as beauty.. This latter came in regular and ex- tra-large sizes. Travellers' Sets Are New A traveling desk set was something rather new. The case was of a rough, dark green leather, while the inside pockets were soft, lighter green lea- ther, with room for everything, and yet compact enough to be very con- venient. For people who have to travel a great deal by train, and have to work while traveling, this gift would be a thing of joy forever. Other interesting leather articles, the grave and see what the significance of her wardrobe is through it all. Is It A Boy Or A Girl? .. . When Penelope is born, before her mother knows whether her off-spring is a Penelope or an Oswald, she waits in fear and trembling for the nurse to come in and break the news about her child, for she herself grew up with three brothers and she certainly does want it to be a girl. She hears footsteps coming along the hall; her heart pounds, her eyes dilate; but as the nurse enters she heaves a vast sigh of relief, for the bundle put into her waiting arms is attired in a pink ribbon. Thus we see that from the very start, when babies are ribboned ac- cording to sex, what the little dears wear is d : .,,-mighty important. / The years fly past and we find our little .Penelope in the very flower of her youth and a