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Gabardine Echoes "Over There" On Sidce-WalksOfAir

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War Influence
Seen In Lines;
Colors Are Gay
Detachable Pockets, Hats
And Shoulder Purses
Hint Of World War II
By GRACE MILLER
Bulletin-Somewhere in the United
States. An unidentified girl in a
dress of trench red gabardine strolls
leisurely down the avenue. A pert
black kepi slants over one eye in
brisk contrast to the dead white of
the flaring, open-throated collar.
The soldier boy note is carried out
by flat polished gold buttons that
flash sunlight and the full skirt that
swings freely around her easy stride.
Floppy detachable pockets hang loose-
ly below the narrow gabardine belt.
Over her shoulder a stout black strap
supports a black case of soft leather.
Is it a gas mask, or binoculars?
Hardly-it must be her purse. An
insidious thing-war. It creeps in-
to everything, it seems.
War Influences Styles
The simply arranged displays in
the huge store windows are designed
to break her stride. One arresting
window shows navy coats and suits,
some touched briefly with red. Rows
of shining buttons double-breasted
jackets built-up shoulders, and epau-
lets give an air of military precision.
The coat on the right is pleated
from the waist in back, with large
dark buttons fastened where the
pleat breaks. The suit next to it is
edged with dark braid reminiscent
of the 'Over There' days. Under the
typical trench coat at the left belted
in back with the loose Schiaparelli
pockets, is a navy gabardine dress
with a sailor collar edged in white
braid. (That was long ago-that little
navy sailor dress we had once. We
used to tie a bright red scarf under
the collar.) This last combination
mixes Army, and Navy shamelessly
-bad policy!
Cartridge Pleats Shown
In the next window a navy dress is
accented with cartridge pleats at the
-shoulder, and (we musn't forget Fin-
land!) a Finnish wedding belt, all
embroidered.
Hoods are prominent partly because
of war influence. One is distinctly
medieval, made of metallic rings wo-
ven into a close-fitting cap with
scarf ends that wrap around the
shoulder like the coats of mail of
the crusaders. It seems that Euro-
pean disturbances haven't shoved
aside our past and future yet.
Pigskins, Clean,
Will Make Your
OutfitComplete
Add new gloves and make your en-
semble complete. So fashion dictates
this spring. Pigskins, as always, lead
the field-especially if they're clean.
The newest pigskins have short
cuffs and may be either buttoned or
slip-ons. White or beige doeskin also
serves as a standby for every outfit,
while new pastel shades have come
into their own for the woman who
buys more than one pair of gloves
for several costumes.
Glove colors include dusty pink,
pale green, blue, orchid and almost
any other color your heart desires. It
is fashionable to have gloves which
match accessories or the dress itself.
Short slip-ons in the new terra cot-
ta shade are ideal for beige or brown
frocks. Hand-sewn suedes are also
leaders in luscious pastel colors as
well as in red, white, or blue.
For that always smart look, cape-

skins continue to be worn in either
light or dark tones, while red in any
material adds zest to the more sub-
tley-toned frocks.
If you like to care for your own
gloves, crisp fabrics which are wash-
able are being shown

Patch Pockets

Figure

In Fashions
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Reefer, Tweed

Are Perennial
Firsts In Coats
White Reveres For Collar
Provide New Chances
For Variety, Freshness
By JANET hIATT
"In spring, one's fancy turns"--
and in 1940 it's to femininity without
fuss, at least in the spring coat
realm. Reefers and tweed sport coats
are still in their hey-dey here though
new trim features, new fabrics, and
new colors are all contributing to
make this coat season an individual
one.
Huge patch pockets are outstand-
ing for their smartness, particularly
in sport plaids. These pockets are
being placed where they will be an
asset to, rather than detract from,
the trim silhouette for which every-
one is striving. At the same time,
half belts in back plus bias-cut
coat skirts are accentuating the ever
desired back fullness provided by
double box pleats.
Reefers Have Buttons
On the reefer scene, many buttons
are providing a military look with
sailor collars suggesting the nautical
influence. White pique reveres are
very smart as are small rolled pique
collars. Removable, these white ac-
cents can be added or not to one's
outfit for variation and freshness.
Popular coat fabrics this year in-
clude the new vertically ridged wool-
en and basket-weave worsteds. Sports
coats are very prevalent in alpaca
and kid mohair.
New Colors Shown
These materials can always be ob-
tained in the perennially good black
and spring navy. This spring, how-
ever, "Oriental gray" and "horizon
blue" are being featured as are bright
red coats which were brought out
particularly to be worn over all
shades of blue dresses.
Plaids are definitely "in" with
the best among them being shown in
military blue with an overplaid of
red, gray with yellow, or beige with
brown.
Flowers Gain Favor
Flowers, this spring, have gained
a new prominence. They are now
being used to add dash to the little
round hats that have gained such
vogue. Choose the hue of these arti-
ficial flowers to complement your
new dress.

Jumpers Herald Spring
- Y
Proving that prints are ever
popular and that one is never too
old to wear jumpers, we came
across this dress in a store win-
dow recently. The little-girl lines
are in harmony from the tiny
round collar and round pearl but-
tons, to the saucer hat which com-
pletes the ensemble.

Checks And Polka-Dots Lead
In Fashion Parade This Spring
Talk about square pegs and round with the new big pockets give a dis-
holes - tiny, gay-colored checks are tinctly military flavor to some of
fighting it out with good-sized polka- the styles.
dots for first place in the fashion "Gone With The Wind" has had
parade this spring. While these fig- its influence on informnal clothes as
ures make the newest news in the well as on formals.
printed silk line, the old standbys of Bows, rickrack, and dainty eyelet
various designs on lighter back- batiste and lace make quaint trim-
grounds and the perennial navy blue ning on modern versions of dresses
are back for their share of the glory. .Scarlet" and "Carreen" wore. Very
Swirls of pleats animate the full feminine slips trimmed in lace peek
skirts of smartly tailored frocks this, out naively from under the hems of
spring. Large pockets and hoods are! these flaring swing skirts. Fitted
the newest note in fashion, especially waitlines w ith full blouses and
the former. One fetching number skirts seem to be "a la mode." Thus,
had saddle pockets anchored to the milady can be "up-to-date" whether
belt, and another featured huge box she prefers to miice soldiers or co-
pockets fastened along the top with quettqs.
buttons.
The shirt-waist frock and those
with princess lines are still very much
with us. They hold their own in the
hearts of American women because
of their charming simplicity, their AreSa s i
comfortableness, and their practica-
bility. Such dresses are perfect forP e
day-long wear.
But there's war in the fashion
world. Jacket necklines and the With the advent of the first spring
"baby double-breasted" closing along flowers and soft summer breezes,

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Train Box, Canvas Bag
Meet Luggage Needs

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Looking For A Purse? Mother's
Knitting Bag Is Model For 1940

Military Argument-
RefutedBy Suits
This Spring's suit season will re-
veal that the military trends which
prevailed immediately after the be-
ginning of Europe's war are waning,
and femininity pure and simple is
resuming the lead.
One model at a fashion show wore
an attractive beige tweed dressmaker
suit nipped at the waist and flared at
the skirt. It is a chic suit and may
be individualized by choosing from the
exciting accessories which are being
featured this season.
For something unusual in suits, a
giant grey and white check with the
.new longer-length nipped-in-jacket
was shown. This suit has the novel
dig-down pockets and the box-pleat-
ed skirt for the easy fullness

The ultimate in luxury is an in-'
genious suitcase.
Whether you are bound for Florida
or Detroit, the smart person will be
noticed by the baggage which accom-
panies him. You say "Humph," who
will see it?" But there are many eyes
fastened on you from the time you
leave your abode until the time you
return. So don't take any chances.
Be well baggaged. .
Today, when there are so many
handsome suitcases, it shouldn't be
difficult to discover one to fit your
individual taste. First, however, may
we suggest that all leather luggage
be placed in the category of the "old
fashioned"? To begin with, it is not
economical. Porters must be engaged
to carry your bag as it is very heavy.

a co-ed's fancy turtns to a change.
One way to get out of winter dol-
drums is to try one of the captivat-
ing new colognes and perfumes that
are being put out by the better cos-
metic houses.
One house has put out a cologne
that is remiiscent of apple blossoms,
and derives its name from that
flower. This house also puts out a
cologne called "English Gardens"
which has a refreshing scent.
Another house makes a perfume
very provoctively labelled Carefree.
It has a fresh, clean smell about it,
yet there is a dash of mystery in it
too. This is the sort of thing that
one trots out to dazzle that smooth
man you just met and want to
impress.
Another floral cologne is "White
Hyacinth," which has a sweet deli-
cate fragrance. For your glamor girl
moments there is Demi-Jour, a dif-
ferent perfume, and, might we add,
should be used in small amounts?


'. - SEN

im MADEMOISELLE


The ways of fashion are strange
and dubious. With pockets growing
bigger and bigger, you might think
purses would be growing correspond-
ingly smaller. But this spring they
are bigger than ever.
There is a fascinating variety in
shapes, fabrics, and colors to choose
from, however.
Purses Are Varied
There are purses which are hardly
distinguishable from brief cases, in
pigskin or patent leather, with a
zipper around three sides.
Purses resembling enlarged vanity
cases, round or square, are much fea-
tured right now. These are almost
all of patent leather, in black or
navy, and they make an excellent
all round accessory.
Then there are the handbags
which remind you of mother's knit-
ting bag. Of woven fabrics, with
large wooden clasps and long straps,
they can hold all the things you
want to put in a handbag but which
you usually can't get in. The most
attractive thing about them is that
you can get one to match almost
any color you want. They are dis-
played in all the new pastel shades,
and in dashing color combinations..
Suede Is Popular
Soft suede bags with draw strings
instead of the ordinary flat clasps
are also much in evidence this spring.
They are available in several shades,
and they, too, have the advantage,
much appreciated, of being very
roomy.
Many of the new spring purses
have elaborately stitched designs on
them or ornate clasps, in keeping
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with the fanciful new hats. Almost
all of them have good sized straps
so that they are easy to carry. Andj
they come in an almost infinite va-
riety of styles.

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MARILYN SPRING' FASHIONS

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COATS..
SUITS...
FROCKS...
REDINGOTES...

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HOT PINK
Soft pink-red of sun ripened watermelon . .
Peggy Sage's nail polish creation to blend with
Spring watermelon fabrics . .. to vitalize new
browns and grays. Makes hands look alive and
fashion-foremost as they've never looked beforeI

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FORMALS . . .
DINNER DRESSES
There's "something new" every
day - and just now selections
are more than bountiful-
Juniors' 9 to 15
Misses' 10 to 20
Women's 18%'z-.3
to 22V2
You Are
Cordially j
Invited.

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OUR EVERY-DAY BUDGET PRICES
MAKE THIS THE

TROUSERS .. . in Spun Rayon.
BLOUSES .... in fine Crepe,
woven of Enka* Rayon. Colors:
Royal Blue Trousers with blouse
in Royal/White, Red/White
i ,uhsi a mrnTser with

The separate striped blouse
makes a gay partner with a skirt
or shorts .. . the carefree, volum-
inous trousers become the bet-

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