THE lMICH IG AN D AILY

RIDAY, DEC. 2, 1938

Up Or Down Is New Weekend
Women's Hair I Kits Are Large
PI bl Td~mn 1-


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west Formals W arm Male Hearts; Chic Compacts Iridescent Jackets
Are HandyGilf tsLend Sophistication
Dinner Dresses May Be Mid -Victorian Are H 'Idy To Formal Gowns

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Facial Contours, Neatness'
Are Facts To Consider
For Latest Coiffure
The much-discussed controversy
concerning the up-swing trend in hair
dresses is still'quite prevalent. Most
of the prejudice against this new
style has been due to the fact that
many women who insist on wearing
their hair this way simply because it
is new have the wrong facial contours
for this type of coiffure.
Then, too, frequently that inval-
uable quality of neatness is thrown to
the winds for the mere sake of piling
the curls "on top." Nothing shat-
ters the dainty effect of carefully
piled curls more quickly than a
shaggy neckline. However, if the
coiffure is neat and styled to become
the woman's face, even men who
claim a definite dislike for the new
trend will admit its possibiilties of
producing a dainty, feminine effect.
Tricky Clips Adorn Curls A
The new style has now created an'
influx of tricky combs and clips as
- adornments for upbrushed curls. Car-'
tier's sparkling daisies of 'diamonds
add to the distinctiveness of high-
piled curls. Another matching daisy
may be worn on the lapel or collar of
a dressy suit or frock to complete;
this decorative new note in jewel ac-
cessories. Talbor has designed a new
headdress for the up-swept coiffure<
by combining ribbon, veiling, jade
and coral beads and cellophane flow-
ers to produce an elaborate effect of
elegance for formal wear.
If you prefer something less pre-
tentious for evening wear, the new
doll's hats are ideal. One tiny hat ist
composed of g6ld sequins, a small1
black veil, and a butterfly of vari-
colored sequins set provokingly on
top of the crown (if it can be called
that!)
h ) Velvet Doll fHat
Another version of that hat comes{
in black velvet with three gardenias
on top. The manufacturers have
solved the problem of keeping the
hats in the right positionby adding
an elastic for the purpose. To term
these novelties "hats" seems to be ant
exaggeration, but their general effectl
is very demure and ultra-smart.
Flower hats are also popular for1
formal wear with the new hairdresses.
Lavendar and blue flower hats tie
beneath the chin with black velvet
ribbons. Shades of lavendar are al-f
so combined in feathers fastened to7
little combs.g
For less formal wear, the new silver
and gold kid bows are popular. Se-
quins or gardenias on combs are alsol
very attractive with informal, dressyi
clothes.f

Streamlined Convenience
Is Featured In Bags
Whether you are going across the
campus or across the continent you
will appreciate the latest improve-
ments in weekend kits. The old days
of the square box with toothbrushes
and safety pins all scrambled into one
compartment have passed forever. In
their place we have the 1938 weekend
kit, complete with drawers and a
handle. It has been said that only
an expert can tell the difference be-
tween a young suit case and a week-
end kit.
One of the leading cosmetic manu-
factures has put out a kit with sep-
arate places for cold creams, soaps.
talcum powder and hand lotions. The
case has a small handle and is trim-
med in alligator skin. It is about
seven inches long and four inches
deep.
Leather Is Practical
Another kit, ni the higher price
class, is made out of genuine leather.
The lining is washable. In the cen-
ter of the top is a removable easel
mirror. The upper part of the kit
is a tray which can be taken out. The
tray itself is full of cosmetic jars and
compartments for other necessities.
Perhaps the most ornate kit we
saw was one of black pin seal. This
was trimmed with gold plated hinges.'
The whole effect was one of a small
satchel.
Surprises In Store
One kit held a surprise for us. Un-
der the tray, which was not remov-
able, was a drawer which could be
pulled out. There was room enough
for a gown and slippers. No doubt
this is a hangover from the pencil
box days of our adolescence.
Besides the regular weekend kits,
there are other kits on the market
for a special purpose. A floral bath
case is the last word for the luxury-
minded. Four satin sachets, two bars
of soap, a jar of bath salts, and tal-
cum powder are included in the chest.
Satchel cases, which were formerly
the exclusive property of manicurists,
are now on sale for all who are in-
terested in the complexion on their
hands. Manicure scissors, orange
wood sticks and nail polish are all
provided for.I
Perfumes Solidified
If you are afraid that your perfume
will spill in your trunk, solidified per-
fume has just been created for you.
It is housed in a small kit with alli-
gator trimming. The perfume itself
is in the form of poker dice.
It is our guess that if a new kit
bag -is under your tree this Christmas
it will accompany you on your travels
for years to come.

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Net And Pastel Chiffon'
With Sparkling Sequins
Stress Holiday Gaiety
By MARS HELEN DAVIS
-It's only twenty three days till
Christmas and high time that every
young girl ought to be giving her holi-
day wardrobe a serious little cogita-
tion. Every shop is bringing out a
whole carload of new formals to warm
the cockles of your heart.
Nets and fluffy chiffons seem to
be leading the race for popularity and
be sure to have rhinestonessor sequins
somewhere on the dress because
they're festive and gay. A prize in this
type of dress is a white strapless chif-
fon that has a much shirred top and
a tiny lace ruffle all around it bal-
anced by one at the bottom. The
simple severity of this dress is relieved
only by two delicate rhinestone clips.
Embroidered Black Net
Black net embroidered with a fine
silver thread is another leader in the
parade because of its chic distinctive-
ness. Fluffy lace with just a hint of
starch to make it stand out has been
made up into a smart strapless dress
that is trimmed in a narrow velvet
ribbon of contrasting color.
Purity seems to be the key-note for
holiday formals with the result that
one New York creator has designed
a white chiffon in simple Grecian

SlimSophistication


Color And Capaciousness

Java Red, Chinese Yellow Are Season's Keynotes
Are Shades Featured In Heavenly days, it's time for us to
Inforinal Gowns omb our long white whiskers and
brush off our suit and buckle down to
By JANE SAPP the problem of buying Christmas
Geography and history are no bar- gifts. Now that we have decided that
rier to the 1938 miss in her choice of we're not goin to send everyone a
a dinner dress. She can change un- copy of tyke same good book we can
obtrusively from a Victorian lady on begin to meditate.
I Friday night to an East Indian prin- A cigarette case- or a compact is
cess the next evening. It is no trick one of the most charming and useful
at all to be reincarnated into a gifts. Amdng the newest is a small
French revolutionist in the middle of oval shaped gild compact with rhine-
the week. stones set along the sides and a clus
All this is accomplished. by our ter of rhinestones in the center.
leading fashion designers with a few Pretty soon the girls won't need
bolts of cloth, a pair of shears, and pocketbooks, because the compacts,
some new colors to work with. Ama- while not any larger seem able to
ranth yellow and palmetto green are hold most anything. There is one
forging to the top for the latest din- beautiful little enamel one outlined
ner dresses. with cut stones of blue and crystal
Victorian Black Crepe which contains a powder sifter so
One black crepe dinner dress has she won't get 'powder all over her;
a matching fitted jacket and pearl admiring audience, a lipstick, a rouge,
accessories. The Victorian air is and under all these a comb. These
achieved by the leg-o'-mutton also come in two layers, the bottom
I sleeves. This costume is particularly being a cigarette case.
striking with long black gloves and If she likes more simple accessor-
a feathered hat. ies grandma's snuff box has been

Clever jackets are being used to
"dress up" evening gowns' that you
have grown tired of. Gold satin bo-
leros are lovely with white chiffon,
and white is the ever-popular con-
trast for black.
Or perhaps you prefer a glittering
and sophisticated sequin jacket to
add a dazzling note to a extra special
evening. These usually appear in sil-
ver And gold, but there are some in
more softly gleaming pearl tones. One
unusual fitted jacket is of many va-
rious colors-rich reds and deep blues
and greens-the whole effect is irri-
descent and shifting as the colors on
a pigeon's neck.
Most of these jackets are at their
best advantage over a dark evening
dress. Some of the most beautiful
combinations are with pale pink, or
blue or even white angora boleros
over a supple black skirt of silk jersey.
Silk jersey by the way is enjoying
great favor at the present moment
and besides is much more practical
than the black velvet skirts of other
years when it comes to being worn
under a shedding wooly jacket.
raised figures in gold and stones,
matching the chains and colorful
glass covered pictures. Very good for
formal wear are the rhinestone or
mother of pearl compacts.
Almost 4ll of these have matching
cigarette cases of varying sizes. Es-
pecially handy are the small cases of
,enamel which are verV much like
compacts and can be carried in per-
fect harmony with any feminine
frock.

The Hindu influence is felt in a
long beige gown with a printed blouse
effect. The ties cross in the back
and are tied in a knot.
For those of you who can be cheer-
fully weaned away from black, there
is a flowing white dress with em-
broidered neckline and pockets. AI

turned into a very loelvy little powder
compact and is a dainty and attrac-
tive for street wear as it is to carry
with the old fashioned hoops Miss
Modern has adopted. There are com-
pacts with watches, compacts with
ivory setting, compacts with every-
thing from the flags of all the nations

lines relieved only by an inch-wide
girdle and straps of tiny rhinestones.
The Hellenic influences has also crept
in in another dress of white chiffon
that is very full and fluffy but which
has a touch of the sophisticated in
a dainty gold kid applique around the
top.
Pastel Chiffons Lovely
Pastel chiffons might well be men-
tioned here too because one very good
looking one has been brought out in
a lemon yellow with a shirred waist
and tiny puff sleevs that fall from a
drop shoulder. The trim on this dress
is in the form of a tiny velvet ribbon
tied in bows down the front.
Sequins are sharing top ranking
with rhinestones and they have been
woven into a very wide girdle of bright
colors to decorate a dress of fluffy
silk net dyed a rich chocolate brown.
The waist of this dress is very full
and shirred.
New York has created a very un-
usual dress of this sheer net that
has three layers of contrasting colors.
one over the other so that the total
effect is a sort of irredescent change-
able shade. The colors are rose, em-
erald chartruese over a rose taffeta
slip. The dress is trimmed by a nar-
row velvet ribbon over a shirred top.
Another net is a girlish dress of ciel
blue with shirred top and pink velvet
rosettes through the vey full skirt.
Girdle Of Sequins
With sequins in such good stand-
ing, they have been featured in one
dress that has a girdle of them in the
shape of huge diamonds on coal black
sequin on a pastel net. Other sequin
designs are found on the black nets
where they appear in the form of fire-
works worked out in little splurges of
bright designs.
Running a close second in materials
is the very sheer silk taffeta. One
classic example of this dress is called
"Adagio." It is red and has very
much of the Spanish worked into its
design. The skirt is shirred and has
yards of material in it. The waist is.
quite simple with drop shoulders de-
signed to be very white in sharp con-
trast to the dramatic lace mantilla
required for the head.
Brooch Relieves Severity
In deep theatrical purple, another
taffeta dress comes with, a huge
antique brooch with amythest sets
as its only decoration and relief from
the severity of tiny cord straps.
The Empire influence seems to have
made a strong impression on the de-
signers because they have created a
striking dress called "Versailles". It
has an Empire bust and draped off
the shoulder line with a corselet waist
which drops to a very full skirt of
blue faille silk.
Another period dress of a heavy
bengaline silk has appeared in the
displiy windows. This dress has large
hoops with the '-lonial influence
carried out still further in a dainty
bodice top. The material is a delicate
shell pink with burgundy velvet rib-
bon trim.
Brocades Are Regal
Regal materials have been spot-
lighted this winter and the brocades
are top ranking among these. From
Paris comes a blue brocade taffeta
with a bodice top, shirred ruffle skirt
and narrow cord straps. In moire silk
comes a cream-colored dress with vl-
vet trim above a shirred top and full
skirt.
One very stunning white dress has
HOLIDAY
BEAUTY
For the Christmas holidays,
look your loveliest. Go home,
looking your most glamorous,

perky set of sleeves and a shirred to puppy dog tails.
bodice show the 1938 trends. This Tp v

cf to oarruT unit"

Chiffon is the traditionali fa-
vorite for Christmas formals. It
lends itself to drapery in soft folds,
as in the fitted bodice of this gown,
made of several shades of pastel
chiffon. The skirt is yards wide,
but hangs pencil-slim for graceful
dancing.

model also comes in green and ice
blue.
If you are going to dine at home,
we suggest red satin hostess pajamas
with a white cellophane and taffeta
jacket. The cellophane and taffeta
are woven together and give a Christ-
mas sparkle to your ensemble.
3 Java Red Is Smart
Java red and Chinese yellow are
two of the leading contenders for the
most unusual dresses of the year. One
chiffon model has a long ceremonious
train and a tightly gathered waist-
line. The color is variegated from
plain egg shell to bright Chinese yel-

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Moire is the important fabric for
been made of heavy taffeta with tiny a series of dinner dresses with a
pastel velvet bows that emphasize the school-girl influence. Short puff
petite quality of little drop puff sleeves with trimmed pique bows and
sleeves. jabots add an immaculate note to
Black velvet has not been entirely the dresses.
out-moded this winter and one classic Pleats have become very distinc-
example of this type of dress has tive for dinner dresses this year.
appeared in an exclusive New York Whether in skirts or bodices they are
shop. The dress has cord straps of treated in a classical manner. Sashes
velvet that tie in large floppy bows have also an interesting part to play.
at the shoulders- The waist is shirred One dress is pleated from head to foot
material and the only relief for the in wide pleats, but without any trim-
severity is a huge red rose in the cen- ming. A long contrasting sash is
ter of the top. As the final triumph added to the gown for contrast.
in sharp contrast is an aqua chiffon Buttons On Boleros
with an accordion pleated skirt and Bolero jackets are still very much
top. The only trim is a wide appliqued in the picture. Most of them have
gold kid belt trim and a little kid decorated sleeves and buttons lined
rosette at the top, up on the front. A white dinner
dress with a black and white bolero
is very striking.
Matching Mittens, Scarf Hostess coats are just as impor-
tant as hostess gowns or pajamas.
Will Solve Gift Problem These are more on the style of a
.sm.eredingote. One model has a kasha
sA vivid set oi matchig mittens and scarf marked off in large blocks. The
scarf will solve the gift problem for coat itself is eucalyptus-green kasha.
the out-of-doors girl. The scarf is There is a row of black buttons all
of white silk embroidered with yarn the way down the front.
flowers in vivid colors. House Gowns For Dinner
White wool mittens have "Yes" on A house gown is still another ver-
the back of one hand and "No" on sian of a dinner dress. For tea-time
the other. They are embroidered like dinner time or a small dinner they
the scarf, and are a grand aid to lag- are most appropriate. Parma purple,
ging conversation. fushia, and cerise are the favorite
- - -.colors. A long flowing affect is
creat'ed by a winding sash which
Spectator Pumps Smart crosses over in the front.
However, a dinner engagement is
,dSpectator pumps aie still the good often at a hotel or restaurant, and
old stand-by for all occasions be_ thus the restaurant dress has its
tween sports and formal afternoon. turn. Two rows of important looking
Tips of alligator or lighter leather buttons are stationed up and down
and built-up leather heels are the the front of one of these suits. Large
standard styes. All-alligator pumos puff sleeves and ostrich feathers are
are also well-liked. reminiscent of the early 1900's.
THEr
F INEST GI FT }
-
This Christmas, give some-
one near to you a luxurious.
gift, a gift of lasting beauty.
A beautiful fur coat is a
thoughtful gift - a luxur- f
IOus necessity.
t}7 Sv .

char vbry cu sL o ockets ewa
charm bracelets or lockets have

THE CROWNING POINT
for your holiday festivities.
This is just one of the many
FUR TRIMMED HATS,
styled distinctively by
HELEN POLHEMUSb
(She can help you solve your gift problems
with her LARKWOOD HOSIERY)
613 East William Four doors off State

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BEAU-TY

GIFTS

by Hee Rubinstein
w -
x;41 r
\

'Give BOOKS

This Christmas
ou gave nothing else for Christmas but
good books yo u would be giving the finest
gift of all. Select from this fine list of titles -
1. Rebecca, Daphne du Mourier $2.75
2. All This, and Heaven, Too Rachel Field 2.50
3. My Son, My Son! Howard Spring. .2.50
4. The Yearling Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings -.2.50
5. Listen! The Wind Anne M. Lindbergh . 2.50
6. With Malice Toward Some Margaret Halsey 2.00
7. The Horse and Buggy Doctor.
Arthur E. Hertzler 2.75
8. Benjamin Franklin Carl Van Doren 3.75
9. The Best Plays of 1937-38 .
Burns Mantle, Editor 3.00
10. The Story of Ferdinand.
Monro Leaf and Robert Lawson. 1.00
A GAY CHRISTMAS WRAPPING AT NO EXTRA CHARGE

HELENA

RUBIN STEIN'S famous

town and

Country Week-Ender-a smart shoulder or hand
bag containing a complete treatment (11 prepar-
ations). For normal, oily, or dry skins. Black, brown

or blue grained Fabrikoid

$5.00

HELENA RUBINSTEIN'S Flower Shop Bouquet
Cologne and the fascinating Sachet Cologne which
is also a body rub, and a big box of new Flower Petal

Dusting Powder-In the angelic box

$3.50

HELENA RUBINSTEIN'S Beauty "Bird Cages"
are filled with a gay assortment of irresistable beauty

gifts - Body Sachet

Flower Petal Cologne and

Savon d'Herbes - See our display

$5.00 - $7.50

C