TWENTY THE MICHIGAN DAILY SUNDAY, MARCH 13, 1938 TWENTY SUNDAY, MARCH 13, 1938 Straps Cross, Toes Are Open In Dress Shoes New Combinations Made' In Models Of Ribbon, Patent And Gabardine By JEANNE FOSTER Along with the season's rains come new leaves, grass, flowers and SHOES. For shoe manufacturers have cast all caution to the winds this spring and are bringing out some of the most daring as well as flattering shoes we have ever seen. It is allwell and good to enjoy the staunch protection of saddlebacks on campus, but for dates something dis- tinctive and a bit frivolous is in order. For example, there is the new high- heeled pump with a vamp consisting of nothing more or less than crossed and recrossed strips of kid. Ankle Straps Shorten Foot Gabardine, dyed in any color to complement any costume, has been fashioned into every type of shoe. One pump has an unsuaully cut throat and peep-toe, while another has one side higher than the other as it comes up and crosses over to fasten low on the foot. This also has the open-toe and cut-out eyelet flow- ers. Pill Boxes, Sailors And Bonnets Numbered Among Spring Hats My MARIAN FERGUSON The first spring hats do not show such wild flights of fancy as those which the first robin has ushered in for the past few years. Smallness and conservatism are the general notes. Felts and suedes in dark or pastel colors form the backbone of the sport styles, while navy blue and black straws are still the spring fa- vorites for dressy hats. Printed silks and wools in turban styles are step- ping ahead in popularity, however. Felts Come In Pastels Casual felts with dark ribbon trim are important because of a lovely new range of colors in soft pastel shades. Variations on pink, yellow and blue are most frequently seen, while novel shades of purple and henna give new color contrasts with dark or neutral outfits. Small feathers and stitch- ing give individuality to these hats. "Kittenfluff," a new angora felt, is very attractive in brimmed sport styles.1 A new idea in hats is a simple suede cone with a hole at the top. Its ver- satility is its main attraction, for it can be draped in innumerable ways. The top can be folded over squarely and pinned with a jewelled clip, or can be tucked into frivolous points. Lea- ther hats in pastel or dark colors are also a favorite for the early spring featured. Feathers are seen only oc- casionally. Fabric flowers are used on matching pill boxes. Veils are longer and more varied in design than those of the winter. Some completely cover the face and tie in back in a large Pow after the fashion of the motoring veils of the early years of the century. Others tie under the chin, or high or low on the sides. Veils Are Contrasting Contrasting veils also are used ef- fectivey. A blue shade is worn with Swish, Swing In Fashionable Taffeta Slips Ruffles And Lace On Satin' Or Crepe Give Feminine Touch To Smart Lingeriej With the rhythm and movement of dress design this year, it was inevi-, table that this swish and swing should be adopted to lingerie. And with the modes of 1911 competing with those of 1850 in present fashions, no one is surprised to hear the rustle of taffeta petticoats again. Ruffles and lace give the new fem- inine touch to lingerie of gleaming satin or smooth crepe. Bias cuts and special gorings help mould thel figure in the desired long diaphragm, high bust lines. And to give the right} "swing," these slip skirts are cut wide and flaring. For those who adhere to the simple straight lines of the more tailored mode there are the clinging knitted slips, with straight-hanging skirts.' These are ideal under tailored suits, or sport togs. There are taffeta petticoats for' af- ternoon and evening wear cut to flare just enough to aid in the graceful swing of dress skirts. These are ruffled at the bottom and come in many bright colors. They give a dashing bit of contrast under the dark dress or suit, often chosen to match the colored gloves or blouse worn. Smooth fitting chemise tops and pantie sets are also designed to give sleek lines to the figure. And the more erect carriage of women nowa-, days is helped by the correct, com- fortable lines in undergarments. press forever. Herringbone and men's Several shoes have high ankle straps. These combined with high heels, tend to shorten the foot and have been utilized in many different styles. One has broad strips across the toes, instep and ankle and a snug fitting heel. Another is of gay Ro- man stripe ribbon and is heeless, side- less and toeless. In fact ,it is a sole tied to the foot with crossed ribbon. Gabardine Used With Patent Gabardine has been combined with patent most successfully. One pump is made of gabardine on one side and patent on the other. These meet in the middle, giving the effect of two different shoes when viewed from the sides. A tie model has both toe and sides cut out and is trimmed with thin strips of patent in a scallop design. Many a classic opera pump has toe and heel of patent. A new shade ;alternately called strawberry and raspberry is taking the country by storm, and local mer- chants are stocking it heavily. One shoe obtainable in this color has a high heel, high vamp of punched calf, cut out sides and the inevitable peep- toe. Another, of gabardine, has ma- terial crossed over and stitched down across the toe. Italian Fan Is Smart Italian tan is another new color. An interesting model in this shade is a pump \vith a modified heel and an extremely high vamp of perforat- ed leather rising to a peak only to be tied in a loose knot at the ankle. An- other fancy shoe is sandalized and has a five-hole tie. Suede also appears in a variety of colors. One Cuban-heeled shoe has a seam down the middle with eyelets cut out all along the seam and aroundE the high throat. Another style has the1 sides and toe completely cut out and ties at the ankle. Women Should Choose Hose With Great Care Blue French-Knots Pepper New Gloves a raspberry straw sailor, and gold veil lends a distinctive touch to brown. One clever new style has two oblong pieces falling on either side of the head. Bonnets are still a favorite. One in finely woven navy blue straw has a demure patterned veil. The inside of the brim is lined with shell pink silk. Others are trimmed with bright rib- bon bows. Bright printed silk;, and wools are' draped skilfully in turban styles. One interesting hat combines printed silk and straw in a style resembling an Arabian sheik's headdress. Many tur- bans have attached scarves. Gloves are no longer just articlest of clothing to cover up hands, but smart accessories that com~plem~ent~ or contrast with one's outfit. F Especially swank for that new navy suit are white kidskin gloves with backs peppered with tiny, blue French knots. Again, hand-stitched. I natural-color Mokado doeskin slip- ons would be correct. Box-Calf Trims A grey suit would be set off beau-s tifully by a pair of gloves of navy-f blue antelope with red box-calf band-! ing three fingers. Kelly-green suede gloves with a clever kid insert on the back and a leather bow would look well, too.I For town or country wear with alligator purse and shoes are rosy red suede gloves featuring narrow bands of alligator on the cuffs.I Gloves Zip Closed Fabric gloves with Talon zippers sliding down the back are practical for street and sports wear, as are gloves of the same material fashioned with stitching ending in scallops at the cuffs. For dressier occasions Manon suede 1lip-ons in desert sand give dashing contrast to black ensembles. Then Frilly Ruffles, Gilets Decreed For Neckwear White And Frothy Jabots Bequeathed By Gay '90's To Set Off Dark Suits If you're going feminine with a lot of us, you may express your long- suppressed wishes in the frilliest of neckwear, for this is the fashion of 1938. On the other hand, if you require severe simplicity to set offl your charms, you'll be equally smart I this year. From Rembrandt's. period, from the southern belles of "Gone With the Wind" fame, and from the gay nineties comes dainty embroidered and lace trimmed neckwear that gives a frothy whiteness about the throat, in striking contrast to the F dark spring suit. High necklines con- tinue for neckwear and gilets worn with suits, although many new V- necks are also seen with frilly jabots! and ruffles. A S Shirt s Are Suiarts With beige and gray suits, dark SPRING STATIONERY SPECIAL RYTEX TWEED WEAVE- 100 Sheets . . . 100 Envelopes . . $1.00 WITH YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS STUDENTS SUPPLY STORE 1111 SO. UNIVERSITY .8688 1 rj too, long, buttoned dusty pink gloves dusty pinks and blues are destined to are the perfect complement for that be greatly in demand this spring new short-sleeved frock. to offset dark colors, especially navy Fabric, Kid Combine and brown. One of the pet models of a well- Long, white kid gloves are the per- known glove manufacturer is a pair ennial favorite for formal wear, but of kid and fabric combination gloves metallic gloves in gold and .silver are with copper-tan kid backs or with quite in vogue this spring., These cream colored fabric backs. Equally latter gloves are fashioned like gaunt- interesting are the Kislav white doe- lets, having the same long wide cuffs, skin models that are worn with black and affording a most effective con- patent leather. trast for black or brown lace evening Pastel suede slip-ons in the new gowns. k r x I /1 season. One hat, brimmed in front, rises to a cone from which strips of leather cascade. Suede Stands High Small straw sailors and felt or suede pill boxes stand high in the pre- vailing mode for dressier hats. Bright- ly colored ribbon is often used to re- lieve ' their severity. Unusual color combinations, such as purple-red and brilliant blue on black, are frequently Gay, Printed.C oat s In Various Colors Enter For Evening The spring evening jackets are as exotic and springlike as the formals they are to go over. They come plain and figured, quilted and smooth, Nov el tyTweed, Plaids, Checks Seen In Wool The new wools come nubbed, plaided, checked or plain in a va- riety of colors and weights suitable for both the dressmaker and tailored types of spring suits. Pebbly drepe, crinkle curly and forsman twed are used for dressy coats, suits and redingotes, while boucle weaves appear in everything from dresses to coats. Line-weave worsteds are ideal for dressy casual coats and suits. Diagonal and fancy nub woolens are especially good for spectator coats. Soft, flecy camels hair and lustre wool are made into many varieties of spring suits and coats. This mater- ial, dyed in pastel shades, is often combined with light furs for early spring wear. CanIel's hair is always good-for sports, campus and dress occasions. Whip cord and wool gabardine, in the smoother fabrics, 'are ideal for campus coats. Not only do these ma- they are most durable and stay in suiting materials are also very good.I Soft ribbed woolens and wool crepe appear in some of the light dress coats and spring ensembles.. Open-weave and mesh woolens are soft and lacy and come in a variety of shades. They are used chiefly in ensembles. Twill weaves have come out in many new twists. Since they are hard-surfaced, they give a moldedl effect when used for fitted suits and carry out the flattering effect in swagger coats. There is also a re- vival of old fashioned fabrics in the, new twills.1 Flannel, oxford cloth and sergeI are perennial favorites for the lightj weight suit, and tweds appear in all varieties for every purpose. PEP UP YOUR WARDROBE Don't be monotonous this spring; wake up your wardrobe with wild contrasts. Since the startling success of the black and white combination this winter, everything is in contrast: not only is black and white still shown together but color with color and print with solid color. I II II neckwear is often preferred, in black linen, ruffled organdie or sheers. Plain shirts are especially smart in L dark, colors, worn with a brilliant! brooch instead of a tie, and giving a( neat appearance to the semi-tailored 1108 South Universit suit. Dark shirts are often topped with striking white waistcoats or vests of white pique or linen, a fash- OPEN SATURDAY EVENING TILL 9:00 [on which became famous in southern , resorts this year. bright and dark. Quilted satin in pastel been made into a finger tones has tip' length Women are becoming more and more leg conscious. Hose should be selected as carefully as shades of rouge or lipstick with emphasis on matcing natural swing tones and selecting the appropriate weight of stockings. The appearance of any women can be improved 80 per cent by correct shade and weight in hosiery. coat. The back ripples smoothly down from the shoulder line, and at Ann Arbor shop comes in pale baby the throat there is a jobot of self- pink and blue figures, and is quilted. material on which Mad.ameoiselle's But most of the prints this year are monogram may appear. very striking with magnified, bril- Taffeta, both plain and figured, Iliant flowers in tropical colors. also appears in three-quarter length Pleasing to the more conservative evening wraps. Shoulders may be miss is a little .velveteen wrap very broad and boxy, or smooth and fashioned like a baby's'sacque. It is clinging. The taffeta may comple- simple and loose, with three-quarter ment your dress, or it may contrast length bell sleeves and no collar. It vividly. ties with a velveteen cord at the neck A printed taffeta jacket seen in an and falls to just below the waist. oo5 V\vo . ,? ; 4J .....: % f -^.. ,~.c: . ...., . I{ I , ::: r>r ruLQQ. S I L iF.j . .., f . _". Q., °' Y: i;: ;F ;: r k : 3,.. S t., ;:,,. .., > . tii 4. I., *-Talk about sandals-it's all ov& touii! Aind WA-lkOver's at the bottom of it-smartest sandal- monger of them all. Gives you the latest breeze- swept styles to take the air in. Peeking toes, perforations=-everything open and aboveboard. Goodyear, Fashn Show MICHIGAN LEAGUE BALLROOM WEDNESDAY and THURSDAY March 16 and 17 at 8 P.M. THE STARTLING NEW THEMES in "Polycolor" for Springi . . fashion's newest ideas in the realm of coats and smart suits . . . the unusual versatility in dress trends this season . . . multiple ideas for gay Campus clothes . . . the last word in lovely formal and dinner attire for evening. All to be shown next Wednesday and Thursday, in Goodyear's own inimitable way. I- mai:..9 ) Iy f:s } r.:.. s* 1%:f l DORCAS: Marina blue calf. CABANA: Marine blue calf. Design Pat. Pending. RITZ: Black gabardine with " . 4 1i '' ,! ,. L : 5 1 w A",. g I 11 Ii SI tm