T" THE MICHIGAN DAILY SUNDAY, MARCH 13, 1938 Two Gentlemen From The Bandbox Topcoats Fit In TightSqueeze Coats Will Be Moderate Waisted And Short The extra-heavy winter jobs and the loose raglan topcoats that so many of us have now, and had in 1929, are perfectly suitable for coun- try wear our tailor tells us, but for early spiring days in town the ideal coat, the super ultra extra special will be tailored to fit the figure in a tight squeeze, giving it that air of smartness and sophistication found so desirable when you've imported a bit of home town talent for the week- end. The two dandies at the left have just left the proverbial bandbox with two ensembles of this new tight-fitter. The double breasted nifty is made of natural tan covert cloth and carries a small change pocket which admir- ably accomodates the overflowof fish-hooks and paper clips. The coat should end somewhere slightly below the knees and should -be mod- erately waisted. The man who knows -and we do mean you-wears a starched white detachable collar and a bowler hat or a Homburg. Trousers are strongly recommended. The 9 (p.m.) o'clock scholar behind that herringbone on the far left is all set to pull a page proof of a pretty blond he knows. His overcoat is gray. It is a single-breasted fly front model, but can also be bought in a double-breasted edition. Local stores indicate that reversible topcoats will suffer no humiliation in sales this year. They are already a tradition. Reversibles and saddle shoes in recent years have pulled almost a monopoly of greenbacks in their direction. Rumor puts a dark green camel's hair job on the top for '38. Sports And Polo Shirts Tell Us SpringIs Here No, It Is Not The Trees, It Is The New Colors Arid Styles In The' Breeze In some parts of the country green grass, budding leaves, and other un- certain phenomena are signs of spring. Some people even lock at the groundhog's shadow as a sign of spring. But on a college campus we have a surer way of determining the arrival of spring. It is the sport shirt addict. At the first ray of sunshine, at the first warm breeze, these hardy souls throw tie and shirt to the moth balls and blossom forth in polo and sport shirt of every hue and color, every design and shape. This group must be offered a set of new spring styles, and this we are prepared to do. Newest Creations The usual pole11:1ir s will return in all styles and colors, and at mod- erate prices. But th real sport shirt fan, (with a real sport shirt fan's purse) will scorn the overdone polo shirt in favor of the newest creations. The newest importation is a gab- ardine shirt that is really tops. The shirt is expensively priced and has to be dry cleaned, but it is certainly worth the money and trouble. It has long sleeves, with elaborate cuffs, a silk yoke, and a single pocket. A grey set off with a dark English silk ker- chief, is just the thing for that virile, Gable appearance. Most anything you can think of from bush coats to camel hair sort jackets take on a look of suavity and completeness when worn with this shirt. They are also to be had in flannel and a thin corduroy, which are almost quite as dapper, but lack the novelty of the gabardine. For Dark Complexions For men of Latin complexion and temperment there never has been anything with a more complimentary contrast than a pure white garment. and a new brushed rayon sport shirt is just what they want for a sporty afternoon. A dark skin, a pure white shirt, and a medium kerchief, will give even a freshman that Rudolf Valentino look. These shirts are more reasonably priced and are washable. They are to be had in every color and with long and short sleeves. The brushed rayon has an Angorra wool look to it, and although it looks very delicate, is extremely practic- able. Tailors Endorse Slide Fasteners The hookless slide fastener ha been endorsed as a trouser closure by leading custom tailors throughout the country, and the majority of tail- or-made suits are equipped with thi convenient feature. In addition to saving time and eliminatingi embar- rassment of broken or lost buttons the hookless fastened trouser has a far better appearance than the old- fashioned variety. The fastener has long been in us as a closure for windbreakers, polo Wherein Are Brought To Light The Origins Of Modern Fashions By NORMAN A. SCHORR Whenever fashion, styles and cloth- ing are discussed, the questions of "Why?" and "How did it start?" will always be asked. The sociologist will dismiss many of these queries with the term "folkways," but the 'historian can offer something more satisfactory. Man has been living in a civilized state fct a comparatively short time, and the historian has many illustrations and records, and actual clothing to present as evidence of the developments of most periods. It has universally been observed in Western civilization that buttons on a man's coat are always on the right side, while the woman's are on the left, and the buttoning processes dif- er accordingly. Why? The best explanation offered is that the Roman man flapped the left side of his toga over the right side, holding it with his left hand, and leaving the right hand free to grasp a weapon or to gesticulate from the rostrum. His tunic, worn under the toga, as flapped the same way for convience, and the modern jacket developed from the tunic. The woman, on the other hand, would keep her vestments in place with her right hand, leaving the left hand free to carry the youngster. Women of all centuries have found that this procedure leads to greater efficiency and comfort in manipulat- ing the offspring. A feature of man's dress that is most questioned are the buttons on the sleeve. Most of us have wondered about them at one time or another. In the seventeenth century, when coats were not so elaborate, it became expedient to have a system whererby the cuffs could be gotten out of the way for duelling purposes by ljutton- ing them up. The buttons, and false ,ttcrhole on some jackets are the remains of this practise. The side pocket, which has become so popular in this century, started when men had to have easy access to their swords through their outer gar- ments. The slit in the lapel is traced to the need for a flat lapel when the (See History, P,ige 13) $6 -w f VAN BOVEN t E i FLAS!. -[ Green is the shade for you this spring . . . Whaleweaves will be popular and, of course, herringbone . . Coats will have plain backs, three buttons . . . Sport coats are now being shown with no collar and no lapel . . . Soft, open collar goes with these coats . . . And new pig- skin shoes will be much in evidence this spring . . . Tyrolean hats will be as fashionable as ever, along with lightweight crushers . . . Fancy-col- ored British hose with stripes and plaids, as well as pastel colors, will sen about the campus a aur uu a a. 'a u-n a* I? New Braces For That New S-it You Hope For Suspenders in a variety of new shades and patterns are available at all the better shops, and a pair of these to go with the new spring suit is strongly recommended. Every man should have a pair of suspenders for every pair of trousers In the long run this is no more ex- I FASHION ROUND UP By MORTON LINDER In the spring a young man's fancy turns toward the clothes he wouldj like to have but can't afford.- If you are among the young gentry t whose fancy does tricks at the first sign of the green grass, budding trees, f and chirping birds, and whose pocket warrants a wardrobial replenishment, you will probably be interested in the following spring and summer fashion notes. If, on the other hand, you are one of those Whose fancy turns, but with' rather a hollow and fruitless result, you should also take interest, in the hope that your sweepstakes ticket is a winner. , As a general note, it might be said that the tendency in spring style is continuing along the track set in the Fall by favoring plainer clothes, with comfort as the main objective. The JBritish influence on American styles d is still evident with tweeds, herring- bones and box, three-button jackets, still maintaining popularity. TOPCOATS: The reversible coat is still the college man's favorite, having I 2R--- . and at the same time most reason- ,"CV' Liil IPU able coat on the market. Topcoats Overlooked, Say TailorsC this spring will be shorter, just slight- All men's suits tarry buttons on the ly below knee-length. One of the sleeves; suits for the country having newer reversibles which looks to be three and town suits having four but- a definite candidate for top honors tons on each sleeve. 'Most of these, is a dark gabardine and camel-hair however, have merely a line of stitch- i r .n ing and will not open. job that is plenty smart. Incidental- Smart custom tailors frequently ly, there must have been a plentitude make the buttonholes workable and of "ships of the desert," for camel- in addition to adding an individual hair is making a distinct bid for touch to the suit they permit a man greater popularity, to roll back his cuffs when he is JACKETS: Spring is the sport washing his hands or doing any sort jacket season, and this year offers of light work that might soil his cuffs. s t s , e C the Camel's Hair Sport Coat ANOTHER FINE STYLE introduced by Van Boven is now being worn by smartly dressed men who enjoy its casual appear- ance. We offer a large selection of fine Coats. Priced from . . . $16.50 and WELL-STYLED SLACKS are an impor- tant part of any student's sport ensemble. Vana Boven's are featuring for Spring a shirts, ski jackets and other sports garments, and there is on the market a raincoat with a detachable lining the usual variety of styles. Probably the biggest note of this season's odd jackets is the return to prominence of the "bi-swing," so popular two sea- sons back. Shetlands, tweeds and her- ringbones promise to oe the feature materials, with gabardine still the "old faithful." Natural camel-hair, catering the past few years to the fuller pockets, is now entering "the low price field." The English motif is decidedly apparent in the loose cut and three-button, single-breasted styles, Hounds-tooth jackets have taken a drop in the style market this (Continued on Page 10) ,-._____ _______-.__-- __------------_-__-- jai m--'~ p~flNowO V U" it aWW app1T PtN m 0 Lii bWHU5 00 proven to be the most serviceable I iT I i E s s s? d Why Gamble with the Unknown? You, too, should know where Nationally known Quality Mer- chandise may be purchased at reasonable prices. We welcome you to our store where you will find many new styles of Men's Wear. We list some of the many choice items on display. GRIFFON & NOTTINGHAM FABRICS Clothes ARROW and B. V. D. Shirts and Shorts lightweight covert. pensive than buying suspenders one or two at a time, and it saves a great deal of time and annoyance by elim- inating the necessity of changing over. The topmost of this group of sus- penders is in a multiple regimental stripe pattern and has buckles in the form of a chevron. The middle pairI have a patent clip feature which fast- ens it to the waistband of the trou- sers. These suspenders may be worn on trousers that have no suspender A proven style - SOO WOOLEN MILLS Sportswear TOWN & COUNTRY Sportswear INTERWOVEN Hosiery WESTBERRY Topcoats LISSNER Trousers FRIENDLY Shoes BOTANY Scarfs ARROW Shirts RABHOR Robes STYLEPARK Hats GOODIMATE Clothes ALL-AMERICA Sweaters GLOVER and B. V. D. Paiamis accepted by students in the eastern uni- versities. Priced from . .. $8.50 &n ii ° HA RTMANN * This Spring, travel with the convenience - the assurance - the distinction only fine lug- gage gives. These are unquestionably yours in Hartmann Rawhide Travel Goods. ICI