SUNDAY,' MARCH 14, 1931 THE MICHIGAN DAILY PAGE NIri SUNDAY, MARCH 14, 1937 PAGE t~;t~ 'Up And Away' Hats, Parisian Designers Say Military Hat Is New Off -The -Face Vanquishes Pull-Forward Chapeaux ; Brims Of Felt, Straw "Up and aw&y," or "boldly uncon- strained," or "unloosened,' say Paris designers of the spring hats to be worn for Easter. And, indeed, this spirit of youthful bravado prevails in the draped and pulled shapes of new hats. While the forward pulled hat, in visor expression, was our first love this spring, the off-the-face, "up and away" hat is our newest and young- est favorite. Styles By Thousands From these simple silhouette types, literally thousands of new hat styles are devised. Nor does the type of costume always influence the type of hat. Visors are to be found in dressy types, and off-face hats in every manner of dressy or tailored model. Diversity in the millinery mode is greatly augmented by use of fabrics, and combinations of fabrics with felt or straw. Crowns softly draped of fabric, have straw or felt brims. Many fabric hats are trimmed in felt, straw or leather, and vice versa. Flowers Give Glamor Flowers or feathers give youthful glamor to hats, and color is seen everywhere. With so many print frocks being worn, a gay bunch of flowers or a colorful feather match the high color of the frock and add greatly to the beauty of the ensemble. Whether the hat is small or brimmed, high or low-crowned, mat- ters not, for it will be veiled anyhow. Femininity is at its height, and nothing is more flattering to the average woman than a glamorous veil fluffing about her hair and eyes. Loosely draped veils are worn about the brims of breton sailors with an entirely new 1937 look to them. Another trick of fashion is to throw a large circular veil en- tirely over the hat, letting it fall in graceful ripples front and back. Bonnets Are New From Spain comes the fashion whim to drape the veil to just hide the eyes in front, and then swing it in long streamers or full ripples at the back. It is a fashion only the more daring will assume. But every woman may wear the crisp scrim veil which is folded or draped carelessly about the hat and tied in a girlish bow at the back. Then there are the smallish face veils that give an al- luring shade for the eyes. The straight brimmed sailor of' straw will be a favorite with suits, especially for these women who favor the tailored mode. But the rolled breton is extremely youthful and is going to be very popular too. Felt, ..C Set one of these crisp, comman- der-like visor caps on top of your curls to make you feel pert and gay. They are smart with tailored suits as well as straw, is seen in smart sailor hats, and many of these have a bit of shining patent leather for trimming. Pillboxes return again, because they are so young looking, and now they are topped with perky flowers, or embellished with a bit of peasant embroidery. They are smart in braid- ed straw or corded silks-veiled or not, as milady chooses. Square pill- boxes and high draped turbans give variety and lovely profile effects. These are especially youthful when posed high, to show the new center part worn in the hair. But. the more sophisticated woman will wear hers a little forward, and a bit jaunty. Berets Of Ribbed Fabric Bonnets promise to be one of the new types worn this spring for they have the charming off-face line so many women like. And the new styles in bonnets are neither "quaint" nor childish, so that bonnet styles may be worn by many types of women. Be-ribboned, often with fluttering streamers at the back and with softly folded back or flared brims, the new bonnets have more flattery per inch than many hats women have worn in past seasons. A perennial favorite that returns with a rush, and a dash of real spring chic is the beret. "It will never die," say the hat designers, and each sea- son they bring the beret back again with new shapes and new manipula- tions to give it the right silhouette for the season. This year's berets are inspired by. Swish, Swing In Fashionable Taffeta Slips Ruffles And Lace On Satin Or Crepe Give Feminine Touch ToLingerie With the rhythm and movement of dress design this year, it was inevit- able that this swish and "swing" should be adapted to lingerie. And with the modes of 1911 competing with those of 1850 in present fa- shions, no one is surprised to hear the rustle of taffeta petticoats again. Ruffles and lace give the new femi- nine touch to lingerie of gleaming satin or smooth crepe. Bias cuts and special gorings help mould the figure in the desired long diaphragm, high bust lines. And to give the right "swing," these slip skirts are cut wide and flaring. For those who adhere to the simple straight lines of the more tailored mode, there are the clinging knitted slips, with straight-hanging skirts. These are ideal under tailored suits, or sport togs. There are taffeta petticoats for af- ternoon and evening wear cut to flare just enough to aid in the graceful swing of dress skirts. These are ruffled at the bottom and come in many bright colors. They give a dashing bit of contrast under the dark dress or suit, often chosen to match the colored gloves or blouse worn. Smooth fitting chemise tops and pantie sets are also designed to give sleek lines to the figure. And the more erect carriage of women nowa- days is helped by the correct, com- fortable lines in undergarments. the sailor cap, and sit a bit high on the head. Then there are others, of straw or felt, that have that round- ed look of a flattened turban, favored by many women. Other berets ap- pear to have been inspired by the Rembrandt beret, as worn by artists in the Latin Quarter of Paris-and Holland. Has Inverted Gores Berets find new interest in ribbed fabrics, and the new softly ribbed or braided straws that lend them- selves to this styling. Their sim- plicity recommends them to everyone, old or young, for wear with many different costumes. Besides the typical sailor hat, there are many modified versions with slightly drooping brims that frame the face and are very flattering. These are characterized by their steeper lines, with crowns climbing a little higher, brims sloping upward, and often a flower or feather ac- centuating this upward movement. By JEAN GEYER The ever practical skirt and swea- ter combination this spring makes exciting use of simple lines and luxurious fabrics. Skirts are flared, gored and almost as short as when the flapper wore them, while un- usual colors disguise classic sweaters. Black and tan, forming the color basis for any outfit, are enlivened by any color accessory one might want to wear. Has Inverted Gores A skirt of medium weight loose bas- ket weave wool, made with six or eight inverted gores to give the circular ef- fect, would form the basis for a com- plete spring wardrobe. The gores, or pan'els as they are often called. are seen more and more to be taking the place of the conventional pleat. Usually there are six of them, quite narrow at the waist and wider at the hem, giving a flattering effect to any- one's figure. The waist lines are built up, certainly a boon for those' seem to have "that parting of the ways" spirit. Zipper Zips Clean Added details which make for a more complete and final touch are really practical as well as smart. The zipper, an improvement over the snap, does away with ugly placket bulkiness over the hips. Pockets are large enough to put something in them. Placed in the front they also abolish bulkiness over the hips. Paradoxical as it may seem, the most popular color this year is really no color at all, but a neutral shade called "oatmeal." Perhaps the rea- son for its smartness is the numerous and extraordinary combinations it makes possible. Combinations Offered Using a skirt of the color and pat- tern just described, add to it one black, short-sleeved, cashmere swea- ter, one pair of single strand, lightl amber beads, and a small, black, bre- ton sailor hat, for one of the bestj 'Ever-Practical Skirts Feature GoresAnd Flares The neutral tone of the skirt does not have to be a dull uninteresting monotone, but may be the new "honey-butter" or "sand-dusky." For accessories to the wardrobe, choose lots 'n lots of colors. A multi- strand necklace of small glass beads, each of a different hue, wound 'round and 'round comes in any length with bracelet to match. Or try wearing the neck of your sweater plain, with dull gold clips set with large, bright stones. Scarfs For Spring Scarfs, too, are necessary if you intend to be "in the swing" this spring. The color.] are terrific but are very smart on plain high-necked sweaters. Three-cornered or square, stripes, prints or plain, the only re- quisite in scarfs is that they be' bright. Two plain ones tied together, loosely is a clever way of utilizing' your old scarfs. If you go in for variety in any in- expensive way, get some soft woolen sweaters in the light pastel shades, people whose sweaters and blousescombinations the spring has to offer. ,s C" a' a luscious old rose, a deep lavender, or a sunflower yellow, and change the accessories to match. But stick to the black and tan basis this spring, and you'll be the smartest one in the Easter parade. Red Earth Color Found In New Hats For Spring Red earth, the high color for spring is also being extensively featured for hats because of the striking color contrast offered to brown, blue, black or beige, it is being shown widely In smart spring straws. One hat introduced is of red earth, trimmed in navy blue, while a shal- low brim faced in navy grosgrain ribbon shadows the left eye and puts the correct finishing touch on one's smart spring outfit. C C: J ia v7 / - ti "" hnoes vel1kioy housands NI i ti h. d /r Ir" ~ O OES COSMETICS 4 that are in tune with spring Calkins- Fletcher's - 9 A" CONNIE SHOES $3.95 to $7.50 "PIZAZZ" is the word coined by the Harvard "Lampoon" meaning, "an indefinable dynamic quality" - and WOW, do these glorious Spring styles have "pizazz!" They simply sizzle with the newest fashion details . . . they cover a multitude of whims . . so that be you co-ed tailored .:. pert . .. or sophisti- cate -- your Spring shoes are here! 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