SUNDAY, APRIL 5, 1936 THE MICHIGAN DAILY PAGE TI SUG,.ARISLIND The Chase S. Osborn Preserve, Now Belonging To University, Offers Potential Usefulness Tol Students And Faculty Whom Natural Beauty, Solitude, .And! Historic Background flttract. TR ACT IS LITT'LE KNOWN HERHE -q Right: A typical Indian house on Sugar Island, now deserted while the "brave" has gone to CCC. By MARSHALL D. SHULMAN (Copyright, 1936. by The Michigan Daily) O N his left, a heavily wooded island sloped away from the river. On his right, the blue Laurentian Moun- tain range stretched off as far as the eye could reach. As his canoe paddled by Indians fought its way upstream toward that fabulously large lake about which the Indians had told him, this adventurous young mis- sionary, Etienne Brul6, felt the threat of unknown dangers lurking in those woods. He was right to fear them, for ten years later, he was, it is reported, eaten by the savages. But then it was, more than 300 years ago, three years before the landing at Plymouth Rock, that white man first was known to have seen Sugar Island. Four hundred miles north of Ann Arbor, the University's Chase S. Os- born Sugar Island Preserve stands in the St. Mary's River which passes from Lake Superior to Lake Huron, wealthy in natural beauty, historic interest, filled with potential uses for the University - and comparatively unknown to the campus. Now five years since it was given to the University by former Governor Chase Salmon Osborn and his son, George Augustus Osborn, in October of 1929, despite its striking qualities, few know of it, and less than a dozen members of the faculty have seen it. Known to the Indians as "Sinsi- bakato Miniss" (Maple Sugar Island) this kite-shaped bit of earth preserves for our age the flavor of the romantic progression by which the Northwest Indians would get trinkets and the greatest single destructive force known to their race - whiskey. While the forests of Sugar Island were diminishing, and the wild life slowly was being killed off, farms began to dot the island. The upper part of the island, higher, with a good clay soil, saw many prosperous farms. but the lower part, swampy, stony, was left for the Indians to grub bare existences from. Came To U.S. In 1843 Although ceded to the United States after the Revolutionary War, Sugar Island remained one of those indis- tinct border posts still held by Brit- ish fur-trappers, until granite-faced Gen. Lewis Cass, later first governor of Michigan, planted the Stars and Stripes at the Sault in 1820. In 1843, by the terms of the Webster-Ash- burton Treaty, Sugar Island was defi- nitely ceded to the United States by a one-for-me, one-for-you policy. It was in the same treaty that Isle Royale was given to the United States, for although it was much closer to Canada, it was deemed worthless. In fact, the whole Michigan area was thought to be "an impenetrable swamp, unfit for habitation," accord- ing to the report of the surveyor gen- eral in 1816. Living on the island now is a color- ful international assortment of races. Of the 550 people on this 22-mile long island, which is 7 miles wide at the top end, the most interesting are the Indians. Theirs is a tragic fate. Just as has happened all over the continent, they have been criminally treated by white men, swindled out of their lands, and introduced to a civilization through the back-door by not-too-scrupulous lumberjacks. There is a great deal of controversy about the Indians. One book about them, "Joe Pete," by Flor- ence McClinchey, was written at the University and its sympathetic but realistic picture of Indian life has aroused the anger of many Indians who feel it is somewhat unfair. As a race, the group is declining rapidly. Tuberculosis and venereal diseases are taking their toll yearly. Most of the Indians are on relief of one sort or another. Though in- herently happy and optimistic, they seem to live by a day-to-day phi- losophy, never working while there still remains a morsel of food, never cutting wood until they have warmed their shins on the last bit of wood in the house, spending their money quickly and generously in the few minutes in which they have any. One hears many stories of their stoic char- acter and trustworthiness,but there are others who testify that the In- dians have learned our familiar household vices of lying and stealing. It is true, however, that their vir- tues are those which they have re- tained in spite of us, their vices are our own; when we condemn them for drinking, for shiftlessness, for ly- ing. we do but indict ourselves. Cheerful In Cups The Indians drink -much and in- discriminately. They will borrow to the limit to get cheap whiskey; when that is not obtainable, they drink home-brew, or home-made mash, a bitter fermentation. In their cups, they are cheerful, and always gentle- manly. Their celebration of New Year's Eve has been described in a previous article. (The Michigan Daily, January 8, 1936). One is not surprised at the high tuberculosis toll when he sees the Indians throw themselves down into the snow to sleep off the effects of alcohol. Their moral code is somewhat dif- ferent from our own, although they are, by their own standards, a moral people. If a squad grows tiresome or less useful, one changes, finds a new one. The ceremony of marriage is not held as of much importance. When a man does take a squaw, for the period that he does live with her, he is faithful and a good providing husband. The women have had their means of independent exist- ence: they make wonderfully artistic baskets, and it is from the splitting of the bark with their front teeth that there are unsightly brown stumps in most squaw oral cavities. There are practically no full- blooded Indians left, and few of the original colorful ceremonies remain. In the spring, gathering in the maple MAP OF yLITTLE SUGAR ISLAND LAKEGORE Cl1IPPEW'A COUNTY MK~NfGAN rl. /" NN scurtOAea!ors.., 5 - L Below: The "Gan- Jer," University cab- in on the waterfront, uilt to hold 8 to 10 students or workers. It was originally built as a clubhouse for Governor Osborn. [t includes ample sleeping and cooking accommodations. a OO ;z? 11 I .b Above: Map of Sugar Is- land, shaded areas indicat- ing University property. Below: View of the channel from the "Gander." Canada in the distance. 7'., I . . ............. I .t '. ? s :s M "' $ 3 ^ ,-;_ ,. %' ti h -.. ,. ti :<,: ; Y .: t R M1 Above, tight: view of an Indian burying ground in the midst of the forest. It is interesting to observe that each grave is surrounded by a separate fence, either from ceremony, or to .keep the wolves away. Governor Osborn's summer residence on Duck Island. To the right is his concrete fireproof library, containing 7,000 volumes, manvo f them rare. Above: Father William Gagnieur, last of the Jesuits in the region. He has spent 40 of his 79 years among the Indians, spreading gospel and enlightenment. ueozaey vi aeea.u ewe . d _r a Former Michigan Daily man, George A. Osborn, '08, editor and publisher of the Soo Evening News and president of the Michigan Press Club, is co-donor with his father of the Sugar Island Preserve. was won. Originally occupied by Al- gonquins (which included Ojibways, Chippewas, Ottawas, etc.) and Sioux Indians, the island was a popular stopping place because it abounded in wild life, was heavily timbered, chief- ly with maple (from which sugar could be made in the spring) and because it is located in the middle of the St. Mary's River which flows swiftly and dangerously from Lac Tracy (Lake Superior) to Lac Mer Douce (as it was called by Cham- plain because of its sweet water, now known as Lake Huron) which is 21 feet lower. The Algonquins drove the Sioux farther west -to the Da- kotas - the Ottawas moved down around Mackinac, and the Ojibways and Chippewas alone remained. A farmer, plowing on Sugar Island 30 years ago, uncovered a silver button in an excellent state of preservation. When polished, it showed the coat of arms and lettering of Edward VI, who died in 1471, 21 years before Co- lumbus discovered America, and Up- per Peninsula scientists are convinced that the button was lost there soon after Cabot found land in 1497. This bit of evidence, together with the remains of some mines along the shores of Lake Superior, worked with devices unknown to Indians, leads to speculations that white men - perhaps Basques --were in Michigan before 1500. Whether or not these speculations are justified, it is certain that there were white men on Sugar Island be- fore Plymouth Rock. Its first ap- pearance on maps comes on Cham- plain's map of 1632, made from in- formation gained by his aide, Brul6, and it is clearly represented in the the good odor of maple syrup boiling filled the island, the old men would remember when, in former times, the tribe was strong and would tell leg- ends of the past to the group gath- ered about the fire. One of the white women who has lived on the island most of her life tells of an incident which reveals something of the Indian nature. She was startled one night to hear a knock on her door. An old Indian came to ask her to take her boat to summon from another island a squaw empowered to baptize an Indian baby about to die. This she did, and then watched when, after the baby died, they wrapped it in cloth and carried it outside (the Indians have a super- stition about keeping a corpse inside a dwelling). From all over the Island the Indians gathered and made their preparations. Silent, they stood about while the parents put the corpse of the baby in a canoe, then got in themselves. One by one, still silent- ly, they formed a procession of canoes, and then shortly before dawn, pushed off in a single file up the river to the cemetery in a hidden spot on Sugar Island. Forgotten by them, the white woman watched, subdued, as they pushed off, in the half-light of dawn, silently, with no audible expression of grief. A colorful figure and an import- ant factor in the Indian life has been white-haired, bony-faced Father Wil- liam Gagnieur, who has been alleviat- ing distress, spreading enlightenment among the Indians on the Island for 40 years. Now 79 years old, he is, the last of the Jesuits in the region. Active and busy still, though Dono old and in frail health, Father Gag- dians as have white men in their Indians, who neither care nor under- private dealings. stand. Thus added to their humiliation Between the French-Canadians as a racial minority are the ravages and the Indians there is the most of disease on a broken, dying people. amity, and the greatest number of The rest of the people on the island are chiefly Finns and French- inter-marriages. Taken all together, Canadians. the population of the island is on a downward trend, having decreased by Communism Among Finns 50 in the last 10 years. The Finns were brought over to The financial situation has been form a colony about 15 years ago. very acute, particularly after the They are industrious people; their University was given the Osborn farms are well-kept and prosperous, tract, for the Island lost $1,400 in but their lands were for the most part taxes with which it had maintained gained through evicting Indians for } schools and roads. After a colorful non-payment of taxes. The oppres- election for supervisor some nine years ago, when the man who gave sion which these Finns had suffered the voter his last drink got the bal- under in the old country, and per- lot, the Island went rather sharply haps the difficulty of acclimating into debt, and has had a high tax themselves here made them favorable bill since then. In a recent election subjects for and carriers of a doctrine cleanup, it was observed that many new to the island - communism. a man whose ballots had been coming Theretare some among the Finns who in regularly had been dead for five feel very strongly on the subject, and years and more. Of the 10,000 acres perhaps their enthusiasm leads us to of cultivated lands on the Island, al- conclude that unanimity exists when most 4,000 are non-taxable. Some actually there are quite a few (White feeling exists among the natives Finns) who are bitterly anti-Red. against the University for holding The Finns hold regular meetings in land which is non-taxable, hence their gas-lit labor hall, at which a causing the full burden of the roads version of Marx is preached. The and schools to rest upon them. Ac- meetings are orderly, sober. Odd tivities of the University, in building though it is for farmers to incline to roads and making improvements,' the left, here they gather each week have in some measure lessened that and express themselves in demon- hostility. strations and talks. On a tombstone This was the land which Governor in the Finnish cemetery are carved, Osborn, who was given an honorary significantly, the hammer and sickle, doctor of laws degree by the Uni- emblems of communism. There is versity in 1911 when he was governor, not much indoctrination among the has presented to the University. Newspaperman, au- thor, explorer, dis- r Of The Sugar Island Preserve 2overer, hunter, stu- dent and statesman,1 Chase Osborn has a firm faith in "God's world." "It is my belief that this gift will be one that will be of ever- lasting benefit to the University of Michi- gan," Governor Os- born stated at the time of the presenta-I tion. "Gifts of money and of buildings and of books will perish in time. These lands, than which there are none more intereds- ing in all God's world, will be here, amid their setting of grandeur, for all time. evitable. If and when I pass through that adventure of entering into a new sphere of existence, there shall remain a monument significant of my earth-existence-significant in termsj of perpetual value to our great Uni- versity-certainly I should have cause for satisfaction." More than 3,000 acres of Sugar Island now belong to the University, with approximately eight miles of shoreline. The University lands in- clude some well-timbered lands, a farm, two small inland lakes, and Governor Osborn's buildings and con- crete fireproof library with more than 7,000 volumes, many of them rare, which Governor Osborn reserves the right to use as long as pie wishes. Wild Life Abounds Of the 2,591 acres comprising the main tract near the south end of the Island, 86 per cent is well woodedI, while the remainder is made up of old clearings, grass and brush marsh- lands, and burned areas. The forest area is made up.largely of what is generally called "second growth" of large pole although a good portion has never been heavily cut over and there is considerable timber of saw- log size. More than half of the tract is mixed lowland hardwoods and con- ifers in which soft maple, balsam, fir, white birch, spruce and aspen predominate. There is also consider- able mixed upland hardwoods, with white birch, sugar maple, yellow birch and red oak. Other forest types represented are the mixed hemlock and hardwoods, white and Norway pine, swamp conifer characterixed by spruce, balsam fir and cedar, and low- land hardwoods characterized by black ash, balm of Gilead and elm. The whole tract is remarkable for the profusion and intermingling of tree species of which there are 20 in num- ber. While the Preserve is well suited to commercial forest production under sound forestry principles, yet much of it is too valuable for other forest and wild land uses, including aesthet- ic and recreational values, fish and game and for specimen tracts for study in a great range of biological sciences. Most of the vegetation that grows in northern Michigan is to be found in these Sugar Island lands. A collecting expedition of Dr. William C. Steere of the University botany department disclosed approxi- mately 150 specimens of bryophytes, including about 10 specimens never before reported from this general region. In the summer of 1935, Mr. Frederick J. Hermann of the Uni- versity Botanical Gardens staff re-, Duck Island, for the peninsula. on which Governor Osborn's cabins and library stand.) It is Mr. Osborn's observation that Duck Aland and Duck Lake are visited by every bird of a wild nature that is found in North America. This includes even pelicans, cormorants, the Golden Eagle and other birds rare to this district. As for fish life, the waters of. nd surrounding the University property abound in muskellunge, pike,- bass and trout. Deer,kbear, moose, coyotes and, in winter, timber wolves, fre- quent the property, as well as the smaller game animals. Geologically, too, the land is interesting. Here is the conjunction of the lower Huronian and Drum- mond limestone and the Potsdam sandstone. The ripple marks of the ancient Algonkian Sea are found in the quartzite of the property. It was this great abundance of game, together with the scenic beau- ty of the inland lakes, Duck Lake and Sweet Gale Lake, which first at- tracted Mr. Osborn's attention when he was State Game and Fish Com- missioner 40 years ago. Thus far most of the University work on Sugar Island has been in forest research. Beginning with the summer of 1930, the School of For- estry and Conservation has carried on a continuing series of technical stu- dies on the Osborn Preserve togeth- er with protection and some physical improvement of the property. All funds for forestry work have been provided by the University's George Willis Pack Forestry Foundation. Prof. Willett F. Ramsdell, Pack Foun- dation Professor of Forest Land Man- agement, is custodian for the tract and all activities have been carried on under his general direction. Most of the forest research program to date has been conducted by Prof. Leigh J. Young with the aid of stu- dent assistants. Tract Surveyed Activities of the University to date have been largely in the field of for- estry and include a survey of the tract and the preparation of a forest type and cover map; an estimate or cruise by species of all timber of us- able size; various analytical forest and tree "stand" and "volume" tables; the establishment of research plots to study forest growth and yield; the study of the effects of cer- ain methods of thinning and im- provement cutting to promote the rapid growth of valuable pulpwood species; and a series of photographic records at fixed camera points. Physi- cal improvements have included the ni fittin- of the TUniversitv's cabin. )l nieur has been one of the few redeeming elements in the white invasion. Through his efforts, and those of his predecessors, chapels have been built, and all the In- dians are now Catho- lic. Many of the Indi- ans are now leaving the Island with their families going up to Eckermann, w h e r e there has been esta- blished a C.C.C. camp especially for them. Their scrubby farms can scarcely support them. They have a