PAGE EIGnT ~THEiMICHIGAN DILYT - - - - - -- - - - - Herringbones, Shetlands, Gabardines Take Spring Spotlight Plainer Cuts For Coat Back.,sShw By Style Leaders C BC New Patterns In Usual fFabrics, Much Color, Feature New Outfits Latest spr ing styles in suits for men in general especially feature worsteds and gabardines, with new and unusual patterns. As for the cuts of the "backs" of the new spring suit coats themselves, the new side- vents are becorr ing more and more popular and the old bi-swing back of former years is again coming back into prominence. 'The shirred backs and other complicated, pleated backs are losing the favor with which they were so enthusiastically acclaimed last year and the years before. So to Of Neilest Treils In Giiixe is ttire riPrte Colors, Stripes, CheIs -)rove Most Popular In Ties Polychromnatic stapes and the popular pin stripes of former seasons will again be in style. According to experts both in Ann Arbor and Palm Beach stripes will be especially apropos. Plaids and checks, both visible and invisible, will again be popular but of all the patterns the new gabardines with striking newt--- ideas of pattern are the latest and padded to give that square shoulder will probably be the most popular. appearance. Gabardines are not only the "dres- The "blouse back" suit, which is siest" of all spring suits but they are certainly distinctly new and different serviceable and hold their press so from the knife plaits at the shoulders well that they are always "in the to the deep center vent, will un- pink" and look well. . doubtedly be among those which are There is a new two button single- the most popular for the spring. The gathered fullness of the back, style- breasted suit with double breasted, leaders say, gives this new type of that is peaked, lapels. It is usually suit its name. worn with the lower button open, ColorsPu and the jacket has fullness under the s Popular arms. The trousers are cut in full Into semi-formal dress, color has in the new twenty-inch width. Some steadily but surely been gaining pop- of these look especially well in a ularity. The break-up from the mon- grey shark skin with a blue stripe. otony of the same old black and white A Glen Urquhart check pattern in has been most noticeable in the a three-button notched lapel cheviot southern winter resorts such as Palm is now rapidly assuming popularity Beach and Miami. among those persons who are busy in BAcheandoMiami. an office or at school most of the day All the colors for the spring suit and then who want a suit which is are particularly striking and in gen- suitable for wear all day without eral the colors are much more varied change. The lapels to these Glen and cover a wider range than in any Urquhart checks roll only to the top previous year. Style experts declare button even though only the waist- that "color seems to be the thing in line button is the only one worn the spring of 1936." No particular closed. The jacket to this type car- color is especially popular among ries slanting flap pockets and side buyers but the greys, browns and vents and is cut with the extra full- blues seem to be the most popular. 9 r, a f ., } T 1 Select New Shirts By Collars, Not By Colors, Experts Declare Colors, the brighter the better, will' be the keynote upon which connois- seurs of stylish neckwear will base their choices this spring. Whether in bow ties or in four-in-hands, whether in stripes or in small de- signs, you will do well to choose ties which have Ibch color in them, pref- erably the lighter shades. Foulard, that dependable fabric, will again be one of the leaders. This serviceable material will be pre- sented in many different styles. Dark backgrounds with light, colorful de- signs will be very popular. Pre- dit-ions have it that plain colors with large polka dots, spaced regularly and irregularly, will occupy a prominent place in the up-to-date wardrobe. Ties Feature Spots From London comes the tie fea- turing shower spots, which are white dots of various sizes spaced irregular- ly on a blue or other dark back- ground. Other figures and designs, regularly spaced, will be numerous among the foulards. Stripes will not predominate in this material, how- ever, the only stripes among the foul- ards occurring in the familiar guard's tie, which will be fairly evident with town clothes. One of t he newer th ings being of- fered for this season is a silk and wool mixture, known as "bahama twill" and various other trade names. This will not be so prominent in the next few weeks, but will take its place among the leaders when the sunny days are with us once more. Broad stripes in light pastel shades will be featured, but plmin colors and plaid designs will also take their place in the field. This silk and wool mixture is a very sturdy tie, and does not wrinkle badly. :Wuolens Popular Woolens will come in three dif- ferent styles, the plain, the plaid, and the spaced figures, the stripes being I left out of the picture almost com- pletely. Reds, greens, and browns will predominate. Bow ties are expected to make quite a bid for recognition, although it is problematical whether they will be any more popular than they have been during last spring, summer, and fall. Bows will be seen both with pointed and square ends, but it is pretty certain that the pointed ends will hold sway on ie diagonal and the country club. Light colors with darker stripings will be very popular. Backgrounds of creams, tans, and yellows, with stripes of various shades of brown, red, and green. Foulards with broad blended i .i S 'RING Suits and Topcoats ness under the arms. It will be good news to all those, who' detested the fancy and over- done backs of spring suits last year that the shir- red back is defi- nitely on the / downgrade and, in / general, plainer backs are really the thing. Side vents, which, in- cidentally, m a ke the digging into those back pockets for handkerchiefs,. bill-folds or what have you a pleas-j ure, are the new- est thing. One of the new- est features is the back with the loose belt. A few years ago t h i s style was o n l y moderately popular but these styles this year will be the most popular of any submitted in previous years, style experts say. In general the backs and shoulders will be "drape" models stripes will also be prominent among the pointed end bows. Botany ties will come both in bows and four-in-hands. However, the botany will mostly be among the four- in-hands, for the bows this spring will be mostly of lighter material than that offered in the bows by the makers of botanies. WRITE TIE TRADE ON 'FIFTIES' Men's store merchants, on the look- out for fashion trends in Ne- York City, take frequent strolls along the "fifties," bounded by Fifth and Park avenues. This is the fashion zone of the big city. With all the best hotels located in this district, as are smart shops and places of enter- tainment, this section has become the center of the smartly attired New Yorker, know as the "white-tie trade." A Another popular suit is the hard- spun, which is included in rich, double twist fabrics, made of "im- ported seasoned" wool. This com- paratively new sensation is included in small checks, plaids and squares. Double-Breasted Models Double breasted models, those with the "roll" type of lapel of which only the bottom button is closed, as well as the usual comon type, will again be shown in spring styles this year. How- ever, double breasted have never been all they "have been cracked up to be" and this year it seems as if they are due to be relegated to the back- ground by the single breasted and the three-button English style coats. For Sunday wear a double breasted unfinished worsted jacket with only four buttons, with the lapel rolled to the lower ones and cuffless trousers of Glen Urquhart cheviot are really "the latest" style experts the nation over believe. Tropical worsteds this year will again be popular especially among the older men although some of these suits that are in the show cases and show windows would hardly be amiss on some undergraduate or member of the younger generation. These suits again are offered in wide Designs Depart From Old Combinations Aind Lean Toward Deep Tones The new male color interest in the spring shirts will make the females look like timorously shrinking con- servatives. Whereas the women for- merly deplored the absence of color in men's clothing the new spring styles will put them to shame with an unparalleled aggregation of color combinations. Deep tones will be the favorites with midnight, chocolate, gunmetal, wine and bottle green re- placing the pastel shades. The trend in designs is defintely to- ward checks with the range extending from small shepard's and hound's tooth to plaid and tartan oversquares, taking in the tattersalls and window- pane checks in its vast stride. So checks of any kind, color or area will be preferred by the shirt-elite. Stripes Prominent Stripes are also prominent but principally are widely separated. The placid stripes, few and far between sire a new interpretation of tihe striped shirt and will be in demand. The unique polychromatic stripes will also be well up in the running. To obtain the virile, rugged look, the Gun Club will be popular. This heavily-checked shirt with the double vertical dotted lines encasing the checks will give that desired outdoor look. The backgrounds are found in brown, purple and blue which blend equally well with either brown or grey sport coats. White backgrounds are also popular for emphasis in the Scottish effect checks. Small Pinpoint Checks In the smaller pinpoint checks, which are favorites with the more conservative, a pleasing combination is found with a white background and dark blue designs. However, the de- signs may range from black to light greys with almost any color fin the spectrum forming the background.. The striped shirt being shown for spring has the English solited collar and is done in the imported striped broadcloths and the maroon hand- blocked foulard are on a par in the early season running. Rather wide Fti ipes in the awning mode on a white or colored ground are also pop- ular with the shirt-conscious. For dress wear the styles introduced in the late fall will prevail during the spring and summer months. The late season favorite of solid navy blue or light blue shirts with white detachable collars will still be the most popular.t Collars are assuming a large share of attention with the prevailing collar, l he widespread Duke of Kent which will predominate the red, white and black tweed checked shirts.. Varia- lions of the Duke of Kent have been introduced in the East where the button-down model has resulted in 1h longer, fuller collar in the wide- spread class. The widespread but- ton-down collar has proved the fa- vorite already in university and bus- iness circles. But there are those that still prefer the regulation collar and these comprise a large portion of the collars being shown along with the Duke of Kent. COME IN and pick out your new Spring Suit and Topcoat . . . Our clothes are made by Cohen and Goldman, New York .. . The Town-Weave $25. The Saxon-Weave $30. The Worsted-Tex $35 Mallory H ats (arc cravenetted) i $4.00 - - $5.00 The Wilson by Mallory $3.50 7/Ie Sir colo ~v l~~ 309 SOUTH MAIN STREET MANHATTAN and VAN HEUSEN SHIRTS, CHENY NECKWEAR. KNIT-TEX TOPCOAT $25.00 REVERSIBLE TOPCOAT $22.50 +i 1 Safell &$ush TI- IStPI.IN 4! with the shoulders being slightly and varied styles and colors. __ Genuine Hand-Woven Sarrns WTeeS SUITS and TOPCOATS $ i 00 TP A mmiiT T T E PROBLEM pf Yo r Sp rUil and Suirner Wardrobe Has Been (iom pletely Solved by Saffell & Bush "Every Pattern and Piece of Material in This Shop Has Been Carefully Selected and Confined to Us!" Some of the Most Outstanding ValueS YouCan .Possihiy1_ use I A IN I I 3I I