6A - Wednesday, November 19, 2014 The Michigan Daily - michigandaily.com The sty le of'AHS' 'Who'a depressing end Fashion propels Jessica Lange's femme fatale By CATHERINE SULPIZIO Daily Arts Writer There is a reason Jessica Lange is one of the most popular characters on "American Horror Story" every season. She plays the femme fatale in a sea of forgettable female TV personas, the unapologetic villainess who makes being bad look damngood. Of course, Lange's brand of fashion has always had a tenuous history with female politics. In the. June 9, 1909 edition of the New York Times, a headline blared "NEW WOMAN A FREAK, SAYS BISHOP DOANE." In the byline, it continued "One Who Strives for Man's Work a Horrible, Misshapen Monster." The titillating headline referred to a Bishop's ill-advised graduation speech at an all girls school in New York, where he railed against the growing suffragette movement. The New Woman of his speech was an entirely new cut of female; in an 1895 edition of Home Chat, a women's magazine, a satirical poem wrote: "Who rides a cycle round the town, in costume making all men frown, and otherwise acts like a clown? New Woman." The Bishop didn't subscribe to Home Chat (he probably inherited his institutional sexism from his employer), but what both narratives have in common is their alignment of the New Woman as a "freak," or "a clown." In their complete forms, both yoke the New Woman's fashion to their indictment; after all, she cut her hair short, wore bloomers to bike ride and abandoned the fussy volume ofVictoriansilhouettes. Fashion continues to carry this gendered baggage. Damned if you have an interest in it and damned if you don't - just look at how critics treat Hillary Clinton's unfussy style. The label of deformity applied to genderless fashion signals that to be a strong female is to be estranged from society. Which is exactly why the mutable femme fatale embraces She's going to break your heart in two ... it's true. this label. After all, it is harder to police the outsider than the member of society who has swallowed the status quo. The femme fatale wears strangeness on her sleeve: she is sexual then asexual, wearing prickly tweed or silk that glistens like liquid on her skin. If Lange's past characters paid whispered tributes to the femme fatale, Elsa uproots the lady of noir' from her restrained Hays Code heyday and thoroughly modernizes her. Elsa is a former dominatrix, sexual assault victim turned abuser, aspiring singer, circus ringleader - Elsa accepts with relish the "complicated" label TV critics love. And all of it is reflected in her style, which uses strange fabrics and colors, and doubles back on earlier eras. Take the powder blue suit Elsa wears when she performs David Bowie's "Life on Mars." As costume designer Lou Eyrich noted, "We fashioned it after a'40s suit, but atake off of the blue suit that David Bowie wore. So, it's a '40s version of a '70s suit." But the suit isn't just anachronistic, it's distinctly androgynous with its large lapels and boxy shape. In fact, much of Elsa's costuming tugs back and forth between two opposites, which comes to characterize Elsa who is both cruel and compassionate. In her first appearance, Elsa strides in the hospital with a voluminous black and white fur coat. The fur makes a statement, but so does the coat's ultra-accentuated shoulder pads. Elsa takes up physical space in these shots. The black toque cap she wears has spiky feathers, sensuous yet intrusive. Even in a pink suit she wears later that's coded more feminine, Elsa wears that spiny hat. Elsa's penchant for fur and feathers is crucial. Both are consumerist status symbols, denoting access to money. Which is interesting, because despite the freak show's physical remoteness, it hints that Elsa and her clan aren't totally estranged from the marketplace economy. Of course, it also denotes power. After all, to wear a dead thing signals a fearlessness of death. There is domination over the dead thing: the accessorizing of death. Indeed, Elsa is unfazed by death; in the third episode, she'd rather sing Lana Del Rey even though she knows it will invoke the wrath of the dead Edward Mordrake. In a promo picture for "American Horror Story," Lange wears a tent-like gown with wide carnival-esque stripes. It would swallow most people, but Lange owns it. She was involuntarily made a "freak," so she finds her autonomy by wearing the strange and attention-catching. Like the New Woman and the femme fatale's style, Elsa's fashion isn't mere conceit, it's her armor. By KAREN HUA Master and their conflicting desires Daily Arts Writer to destroy and save humanity. However, even after developing This review contains spoilers on such a strong protagonist- the seasonflnale of"Doctor Who." antagonist relationship, the writers Last weekend, the eighth season run out of creativity as they revert of "Doctor to the stock template for feature Who" ended adventures. on one of The show's dialogue, best used the most Doctor Who to convey the Doctor's stoicism depressing Season 8 Finale and moments of sentimentality, is notes in instead used to explain situations history, BBCAmerica instead of showing them. If leaving anything, the writers need to trust "Whovians" everywhere that viewers, largely a devoted screaming "MOFFAT!" in fits of fan-base, understand the premise. exasperation across the Twitter- Moffat can't write dialogue verse and Tumblr-sphere. primarily worrying about new Writer Steven Moffat viewers who need a recap. The ("Sherlock")hasproventhathemay redundant storytelling makes well be the George R. R. Martin the revered Doctor seem more of television. The first part of the clueless, as others must fill him - finale, already dismal enough, or the "ignorant" audience - in on was only a gentle premonition information he could've gleaned to the gloom that shrouded this himself. one. Moffat's merciless pen kills Though the series is partially off audience favorites, as geeky propelled by plot, the other half sidekick Osgood (Ingrid Oliver, of the driving force relies on the "Angus, Thongs and Perfect relationship between the Doctor Snogging"), and Danny Pink and his companion. Unfortunately, (Samuel Anderson, "The History even through a whole season Boys") both meet their finite of development, the chemistry demises. between Clara (Jenna Coleman, While the season started with "Captain America: The First skepticism that Peter Capaldi("The Avenger") and the Doctor is Thick of It") would be too old to lackluster compared to previous play a vivacious, adventurous time- Doctor-companion connections. traveler, the Oscar-winning actor They weren't best friends like Matt ultimately brought dynamism to Smith's Doctor and Amy were; they the role thatwonover manyofeven didn't have the romance of David the mostskeptical fans. Tennant's Doctor and Rose - and The penultimate episode of most disappointingly, they don't the season left audiences with a even trust each other enough to slew of cliffhangers - perhaps reveal their true fates in the end. too many for the finale to feasibly Nevertheless, it's refreshing that address. It's clear that Moffat has the season works with a Doctor- bitten off more than he can chew, companion dynamic unburned so the finale is purely referential, by sexual tension or romantic attempting to resolve only a undertones. On television, where it fraction of the questions and loose is usually expected of any opposite ends from previous episodes. sex pairing to end up together, After the shocking revelation season eight of "Doctor Who" is a of Missy as the Master (Michelle necessary break up from"shipping" Gomez, "Bad Education") in female culture. The distinction allows form, she continues her pursuit to the show to focus on individual eradicate the human race through character and plot development extermination by Cybermen. instead of contrived relationship However,something about Gomez's teasing. personality does not nearly exude However, this focus on the "heartless and heinous" to the individual characters puts pressure extent itshould. on each actor, so Clara often The finale begins when UNIT pales in comparison to previous crowns the begrudging Doctor companions. An unrealistic part as President of the Universe. The of her character is her consistent episode plays out the struggle ability to appear "perfect" - between the Doctor and the especially when she "wakes up like dis, flawless" in a graveyard after being spun through time and space. She often seems to lack the power and grit that should characterize her as a strong heroine. As annoying as Clara may be sometimes,shemakesanincredibly noble decision to sacrifice her own happiness for Danny's. She makes the decisive choice to kill her boyfriend to alleviate his misery of living as a Cyber-human hybrid - ultimately, adecisionthatearnsher more respect. The finale concludes with a series of let-downs, as expected developments are shot-down one at a time. In an anti-climactic peak, the Doctor himself does not actually "save the day," but Kate Stewart's (Jemma Redgrave, "Frankie") father shoots the Master from behind before he is able to get to him himself - the epitome of a spotlight-steal. After Clara heart- wrenchinglykillsherboyfriend,the show raises a glimmer of hope that Dannycould return. Unfortunately, the mysterious orb of light reveals only Danny's spirit in the form of the child he killed - again, more disappointment. In a pseudo-happy ending, both Clara and the Doctor end their adventures by lying to pacify the other's qualms. Whereas Clara falsely claims Danny has returned to her, the Doctor says he has found Gallifrey when it really has disappeared. What does that say about the trusting relationship they have worked so hard to develop throughthe entireseason? The tragic reality is that their lies leaves both of them alone - the Doctor without a companion and a nonexistent mission to embark on, and Clara without Danny and a greater life purpose of savingthe world. And the human race is not even completely saved because there is a possibility the Master may return, as well. Essentially, it seems like viewers stay tuned not because the show becomes more original or thrilling. Rather, they watch because they are fanatically invested in the characters and relationships the series has spent eight seasons developing. This dedication will be what tides them over until the Christmas special. For now, the "Doctor Who" finale proves unable to give them any kind of resolution in the meantime. r Call: 734-418-4115 Drake's 'Take Care' !Emal:dailydisplay@gmaiLcoml _________ celebrates third year RELEASE DATE- Wednesday, November 19, 2014 PAr dN ,r Los Angeles Times Daily Crossword Puzzleu Edited by Rich Norris and Joyce Nichols Lewis ACROSS DOWN 37 Beyond belief 47 Charge against 1 Amin portrayed in 1 Goat. org. that 38 Lingerie top Galileo "PRIME" PARKING FOR Sale 'The Last King of may freeze 39 Ultimate 40 Film with a 721 S. 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WWW.CARLSONPROPERTIES. 56 TaylorMade COM parent 31 32 33 734-332-6000 58 Virtal storage area, nda hint 34 as3 07 03 039 WWW.CHURCHSTREETRENTALS.- to wordsthat COM 734-320-1244.721 Church Cen- start 17-, 25-, 34- 40C41 42 tralCampus/Across fromEastQuad.1 and 4Across 43 44 4 47 bdrmaptsavail for2015-2016 81 "Fighting" college team 48 49 s50 1 52 62 "Born Free" !E WANTED lioness 5 45 63 Hord after 5no5 ns8 n59 so common or case 5 * 64 Starts over o1 n2 63 65 Pink Floyd guitarist Barrett 465 6s PHOTOGRAPHER WANTED FOR 66 New Haven family photo. Saturday 11/29 afternoon student ByC..Buurnike1 94 $45, 663-6217. 02014 Tribune CoitentAgency, LLC By RACHEL KERR For The Daily THESIS EDITING. LANGUAGE, organization, formaL.Alt Disciplines. 734/996-0566 or writeon@iserv.net Drake's Take Care debuted in 2011, during my junior year of high school. At that time, I knew Drake only as the artist who sang that one song that kept say- ing "you the fuckin' best" over and over again, and I was like I get it, your girl is thefuckinghbest. And while both So Far Gone and Thank Me Later, his previous efforts released in 2009 and 2010 respectively, had been suc- cessful, it wasn't until Take Care that I realized Drake actually had some soul. This month, three years later after its release on Nov. 15, Take Care celebrated its third birth- day, which got me wondering: what made the album so spe- cial? After its release, it was a go-to for all my high school's awkward party bus escapades, which included trying to grind on each other and take swigs from water bottles full of alco- hol all the while in a moving vehicle. And today, it still con- tinues to pop up on party playl- ists wherever I go. Maybe it's because we saw a more experienced Drake bare his heart for his fans with songs like "Marvin's Room," where he pleaded over a drunk phone call with his ex, "Talk to me now / don't have much to believe in / I need you right now / are you down to listen to me?" But, of course he has to remind us he's not that sensitive and still smokes weed, gets pussy, and makes money. So, he attempts to cover up his vulnerability in tracks like "Headlines," where he claims he's "too strung out on compliments / over-dosed on confidence." Maybe it's because this album introduced Drake's "I'm actu- ally a really sensitive guy who sometimes acts like an asshole because I'll always be apprehen- sive about fame" persona that has been present in his work since. He highlighted this char- acter in songs like "Underground Kings," explaining, "Sometimes I need that romance / sometimes I need that pole dance." Maybe it's because the album birthed the monumental and gen- eration-defining term "YOLO" - You Only Live Once - as well as the less significant but, in my opinion, equally as important, "HYFR" - Hell Yeah Fuckin' Right. Maybe it's because Drake broke genre barriers, explor- ing both R&B and hip hop. Take Care featured grand piano solos, sample tracks from R&B legends like Gil Scott-Heron and free- styles from heavy hitters like Rick Ross. Drake recruited other big names like Lil Wayne, Andre 3000, the Weeknd, Nicki Minaj and Rihanna. The final product was an album soaked in emo- tion and a multitude of different sounds. "I change rap forever" Drake sings on "Lord Knows." And in truth, with this album, he did. He helped usher in a new era of hip hop, one that prided itself on laying all feelings and fuck ups out on the table for fans to examine. He presented listeners with a funky and sensuous com- pilation of tracks that undoubt- edly featured some of the best rapping and singing we'd seen from him up to that point. And, just last weekend, I heard "Crew Love" at a party. So, obviously people aren't done with Take Care just yet. 4