The Michigan Daily - michigandaily.com Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 3B The Michigan Daily - michigandailycom Thursday, March 28, 2013 - 38 NOIRE From Page 1A Anchored in the black community "It was two women who were interested in creating something that was serious about fashion, but also centered in the black commu- nity," said NOiR's vice president Ciarra Ross, an LSA sophomore. "They wanted something differ- ent, something of higher quality to represent the fashion industry." Though NOiR has matured and carved its own space among the many student groups at the Uni- versity, Ross said the original mis- sion is still very much a part of the organization. "Now we're here and wanting to encapsulate it, but also broaden it a bit, always wanting to be more diverse but to be anchored in the black community, knowing that that is what the vision was for it to begin with." Despite having close ties with the African American commu- nity, NOiR is a large advocate of diversity and multi-culturalism. "We have premier fashion in our organization, and we are very diverse," Thomas said. "You can just look at our e-board." Like many fashion groups on campus, NOiR's style is distinct. Rather than blending in with the trends, NOiR highlights them with clothing and accessory piec- es chosen from both local design- ers and big-name brands. "We find (designers) on differ- ent social networks like Twitter and Instagram, and we're like, 'oh they have really cool stuff.' I reached out to this guy from Okla- homa, and he's donating wooden bow ties this year," said Lou Pope, Engineering senior and VIP coor- dinator. "We are cognizant of the different trends that are going on, things that we want to show in the show, but we also know who is credible and who has good pieces to represent." In order to sponsor the show, the non-profit student group needs to spend a number of hours reaching out to companies and organizations, asking them to help fund the show. Each e-board member has a specific sector of companies they contact, further- ing the sponsorship relationships along. "The basis is gathering resources, but where we gather our resources from is all over the place," Pope said. "Every execu- tive board member has a role or a specific sector that they're COMM1J TY (AITiURE COLUMN Learning from the Occupy movement NOiR's annual fashion show sponsors an organization of their choosing, with this year's pick being Food Gatherers. reaching out to bring in those resources. "Within the organization, there are a lot of different dynamics and pvenues that you can support. My specific job is to coordinate the experience our VIP will have and when our models are coming on to audition." An outlet for creativity NOiR models go through a week-long casting process at the beginning of December. Each model comes in with contact information and measurements in order for the e-board to compile the candidates' information and be ready when the final selections are made. "People come in and we have a sheet that says, 'confidence level,' 'eye contact,' things like that - things we normally look for," Ross explained. "And then we rate based on different categories, and we have numbers, so at the end, whatever your total is puts you into whether or not you made it." Though casting might seem competitive and judgmental, HoJeong Shin, Music, Theatre & Dance freshman and NOiR's fashion recruit, assures that the models chosen aren't stereotypi- cal cover girls and are selected based on personality and presen- tation rather than looks alone. "Because our organization is about diversity, we look for mod- els that are diverse. We don't look for the typical skinny, tall girls. We go from small, petite girls, to tall girls, to plus-sized models and models from all backgrounds and races, so we look for that, too." The girls and guys chosen to walk at the annual spring show are revealed at a party thrown in order to raise money for NOiR's cause and also to celebrate the models. "That helps us out, supporting our cause, making sure everyone is present," Ross said. The different opportunities presented in NOiR all stem from their cohesive mission: to give back to the community with a fashionable touch. Sundai John- son, model coordinator and LSA sophomore, noted that the trade doesn't matter as long as service is a part of the mission. "In whatever we're doing, regardless of what industry it is, it's important to give back," John- son said. In this way, NOiR is able to con- tinue as a non-profit group, help- ing the community and providing an outlet for creative individuals. Preaching the acceptance of oth- ers and community service, NOiR prides itself in continuing its tra- dition of producing quality shows with a purpose. "Putting a face to some of these causes and letting people know that you can do something really fun and exciting and participate in fashion, but you can also have something behind it," Johnson said. "That fashion doesn't have to be a place where you have to look a certain way or be a certain way, and knowing as an organiza- tion we offer that space for people to express themselves without the limitations and restraints the fashion industry can put on you sometimes." This year's show, "La Nuit," premiers March 30 at the Union. Though the contents and theme of the show are kept secret until the last minute, tickets typically sell out quickly as the shows draw a large crowd and noticeable atten- tion. Despite its direct, meaningful motto and mission, one aspect of NOiR can be confusing. "'Noir' is French for black," Thomas said. "A lot of people don't know that." When the Occupy movement broke out in September 2011,1 didn't have anythingto say. Con- versation in the dining hall would sometimes break out into a discussion of the move- ment, but I never felt comfortable with my opin- ions. I ate J my food and JOHN listened to BOHN others speak. When the world seemed to be shaking, and you could hear the people's voices screaming through the articles on Occupy, and you could see the meetings in our own town, there was an imperative to brush up on your politics and do you home- work if you hadn't already. When the gadflies swarmed the pro- tests and asked the famous ques- tion, "What do you demand?" I didn't want to be the one who didn't have a response, who gave the movement a bad rap as being romantic or naive. "We want equality!" some would say. And the skeptics responded: "Great, how?" Nowadays, if you ever talk to someone who participated in the Occupy movement, they'll laugh in a defeated way, shake their head and say, "we failed." In his keynote address to the retirement symposium of University profes- sor Alan Wald that took place last week, British-Pakistani activist and writer Tariq Ali chose to dis- cuss the poetry of defeat, a rather dour topic he apologized for in advance. From John Milton to Nazim Hikmet, Ali looked at the works of literature that had been written in the wake of political defeat. As a former Trotskyist, vocal against Pakistan's military dictatorship and adamant in organizing protests in London against the Vietnam War, Tariq Ali's lecture seemed to be a chance for him to come to terms with his own sense of defeat. But I didn't leave the lecture a newly born pessimist. In many ways, we inherit the defeat of our mothers and fathers, but we also inherit their endless energy. I had never been so moved by a public lecture as I had by Tariq Ali's. He measured his words and spoke with sin- cerity, a quiet anger rumbling beneath the surface. For all the charges of idealism that get thrown in the face of revolu- tionaries, he spoke with a sober realism. And might I add with a bit of wit? Ironic humor and keen delivery filled the event. When Michael Lowy, a Brazil- ian and French scholar of the rev- olutionary imaginary, introduced Tariq Ali, he chose to read from Tariq Ali's Wikipedia page, mak- ing personal commentary and (in his mind) corrections as he went. He arrived at the publica- tion of Ali's novel "Redemption," a critical and satirical book about the major figures of the Trotsky- ist party trying to come to terms with the fall of the Eastern Bloc. Lowy, who was the inspiration for one of the characters, called Ali's depiction of him one of ten- der irony. To which Ali respond- ed that if tender irony was how Lowy had read it, then he gravely misread the book. Everyone laughed, and with that, Ali began his lecture. Protests come and go, but communities last forever. Professor Wald, whose career had been dedicated to document- ing the many lives of the Ameri- can literaryleft, remarked that people always asked him how to write a good political novel. He said he tells them that in order to do so, you write a good novel, and then change all the names to ref- erences of political figures. Voila! These small asides gave the symposium a sense of a living, breathing community. Many of these people shared not just a common struggle but also a personal history. They read each other's work, sometimes met at various nodes of resis- tance or simply had dinner together. In the wake of defeat, what do we have left? Other than the resolve to continue and endure, we have community and that too must endure. Bohn is starting a revolution. To join, e-mail jobohn@umich.edu. rA (ouaR FAsonp fA focus on fashion photograph By CARLY KEYES may like your work and use you, Daily Arts Writer but the second the art director changes, there's a new photog- "There are a million and one rapher in there," Azzaro said. people out there, and you never "So it's about building bonds, but know who's going to lead you to you've got to do good work and get where you want to be next." out there and be visible." Charlie Naebeck has some wise Azzaro said less than half his advice for those looking to break portfolio consists of fashion work, into the popular industry of fash- partly because the Midwest is not ion photography: get working and a big magnet for the industry, but start chatting. thanks to the Internet, this once A student at the University's cosmopolitan world is starting to School of Art & Design, Naebeck find its niche in smaller cities. isn't your typical college senior. "You don't need to have the He has been operating his own fancy storefronts in big cities photography business for the past anymore. More people are using six years, and last summer, he had online stores, and with those, you the chance to mingle with some can operate out of anywhere," of the elite fashion photographers Azzaro explained. during a trip to New York, as well As the market expands, as the editor of Vogue Italia while there's even more reason for he studied in Milan. those with a passion for fashion "I just sat there going, 'I'm not to pick up a camera and start worthy, I'm not worthy,' " Nae- shooting. Azzaro echoed Nae- beck joked. "It was my moment of beck's sentiments regarding the aspiration. One of my goals is to importance of kick-starting the get into one of the high-end fash- crucial networking process and ion magazines out there." gaining experience - sooner With thousands of other fash- rather than later - when he vis- ion photographers trying to do ited the School of Art & Design the same, Naebeck gave his take last week to mentor a few sopho- on the competitive nature of the more students. business. "I told them that now is the "Everyone's looking to outdo time you need to be talking to the next person and have their studios and clients you might 'wow' moment, but I'm looking to want to work with because if make successful work and to con- you wait until your senior year, tinue working, rather than go for you're not going to have enough those 'wow' moments. Sustain- time," Azzaro said. "Start net- ability is more my aspiration than working now. Start researching having those 15 minutes of fame." where you want to work now. Nick Azzaro, an alum of the That way, you get your foot in University and former photogra- the door and start learning from pher for the Daily, said in addition people who are in the industry to skill and quality, networking is and by the time you're ready to of utmost importance to working do that, you'll be well off." consistently as a fashion photog- Azzaro mentioned the local rapher. Photo Studio Group, located on "An art director will be with the south side of Ann Arbor, which a certain magazine for years and functions like a co-op for photog- raphers and is a great resource for Acacia Shanklin, a working professional networking. Anyone, fashion photographer in the area from hobbyists to seasoned veter- who has given lectures at Photo ans, can rent studio space to use Studio Group and will be doing for shoots - professional or oth- a workshop with them over the erwise. next few months, reiterated the Owner Ben Weatherston called importance of harmony with the the studio "a labor of love" and client. said his primary goal for the busi- "There's a lot of talented peo- ness isn't to turn profit but rather ple out there, but atthe end of the to be a resource for others pas- day, people who choose to work sionate about photography. with you do because they like "I've been shooting profession- you," Shanklin said. "People will ally since '97 so now I'm in a posi- pick you based on your person- tion where I can help people, and ality, like how easygoing you are I really like doing that," Weath- and how well they get along with erston said. "The idea of a rental you. Personally, I have chosen studio is not new or unique and not to work with certain people they're all over the country, but or bring people onto my team as we try to be unique in the commu- a stylist because of their attitude, nity feel that we have." and vice versa." Shanklin mentionedthatbeing a woman in the business, though it provides a challenge, has been helpful when it comes to building and business that pivotal connection between photographer and client. "It is a male-dominated indus- try, especially fashion, when you Photographers can also sign think about it, because fashion is up for a membership with Photo primarily about women, adver- Studio Group, which comes with tised to women and women are certain perks like "Study Hall," the client base, but it's basically when members gather for dinner controlledby men," she said. "But and get to bounce ideas off of one one of the advantages is that a lot another or even try out new tech- of women come to me, I think, niques. because they feel very comfort- "People like Nick (Azzaro) able. A lot of female models tell and our other members are quite me they don't have to worry loyal and like the feel," Weather- aboutbeingobjectified." ston said. "We kind of consider Take it from the pros: Success- ourselves an incubator for pho- ful fashion photographers must tography business, because each not only continue to grow as art- person is a small business, on ists and hone their craft but gain some level, so we consider their fluency in the art of conversa- clients, too. tion. The key to making a living "We have this motto: 'It's not at what they love, that winning good enough to know your client; combination of "who you know" you have to know your clients' and "what you know," is integral. clients,' and I think most photog- After all, it's art, but it's also busi- raphy studios overlook that." ness. DAILY ARTS OR DIE. E-mail arts@michigandaily.com to request an application.