i 2F - The Michigan Daily - New Student Edition - Fall 2003 aMdate with te Gate:td ieeitE Chiiies By David Enders Daily Food anid Drink Critic This campus suffers from an unexplained proliferation of bad Chinese food. I've gotten food poisoning at Dinersty. (General Tso declared war on my stomach.) I've had better Chinese food in the Upper Peninsula. But there is an exception: China Gate, a tasty oasis in a dangerous desert of too-greasy egg rolls and fried rice that just shouldn't be "that" color. The food there is so good one of my roommates is convinced it has the power to cure hangovers. But don't listen to me. Listen to an expert. It hap- pened one was in town last weekend: Former Daily Food and Drink critic Michael Grass. (I owe a consid- erable debt to Mike for creating the Food and Drink Critic position at the Daily.) To say thanks, I took my esteemed colleague for lunch at China Gate, where he regaled me with the knowledge he gained during his three-year employment at a Chinese restaurant in Grand Rapids. Excerpts follow: Mike Grass: I don't think I've ever had a bad meal at China Gate. I'm not so sure why that is. Typically, having pictures of a restaurant's food on the wall is a culinary faux pas. (One could, in theory, order by pointing.) So is advertising a chef's cooking awards and prizes so prominently But Chef Jan man- ages to overcome all of this with the quality of his dishes. The Michigan Daily: I think our waitress is on speed. (It should be noted China Gate has the best turnaround time of any restaurant in the area. Even when the place is full, I've never waited more than ten minutes for a table.) MG: Americans typically think of Chinese food as one simple cuisine. People believe that if you add meat, vegeta- bles, sauce and rice together, with a side of an egg roll or won ton soup, you're eating the same thing as the people back in Fujian Province. Clearly, that mentality is myopic and wrong, but it isn't necessarily the fault of the unknow- ing people on this side of the Pacific. Chinese cuisine is more like a family of regional tastes and food traditions. And most Chinese restaurants offer a wide variety of sam- plings from these different regions, creating an American- ized fusion Chinese cuisine and adding fancy imperial names like Princess Chicken to add authenticity. Chop suey is an American invention and if you go to Beijing, you'll have trouble finding egg rolls. TMD: Have you ever been to China? MG: (Eyeing me suspiciously and then reaching for the last of the crab cheese appetizers) The first thing to know about Chinese food is geography. The most prominent names in Chinese food are Mandarin (Beijing and Peking), Szechuan (Sichuan) and Hunan and Guondong (Cantonese). Mandarin cuisine is from the northern part of China and isn't my particular favorite. Like in the U.S. and India, the food gets more flavorful the further south you go. Szechuan is hot and sweet and Hunan is hot and spicy. Cantonese food offers the best of everything because Guon- dong (Canton) and its proximity to Hong Kong was an early outlet of Chinese culture and food to the West. Early waves of immigrants from China came from this region, so Cantonese cuisine is a dominant force showing up in many American Chinese restaurants. (At this point, the Michael Jackson song from "Free Willy" is played on the restaurant's muzak station. People actually begin humming or even singing along. There is a slight pause before Mike continues:) The new wave of immigrants from China is coming from the coastal province of Fujian, across the straits from Taiwan. So specialized seafood dishes have been slowly integrated into many Chinese restaurants in the U.S. These new coastal dishes are most of the time a lot lighter than some dishes that hail from the interior, so if you have a chance to have a chef's special, you may be pleasantly sur- prised. My old boss came from a Taiwanese culinary back- ground, which is heavily influenced by seafood. He specialized in Sa-Tsa, a coastal barbeque sauce made from anchovies and garlic, which you don't see too often in the Midwest. He would make it for me off the menu. Straying off the typical can yield the best food selections. TMD: Yeah, straying off the typical can yield a lot of things. When's our food gonna get here? MG: A typical Chinese dish should only take two to three minutes to make, so if you wait for a long time for a simple dish, something is awry in the kitchen. The reason for the quick turnaround time in Chinese restau- rants is tied to China's traditional lack of energy resources. Fuel for cooking has always been in limited supply, so creating a large fire that consumed a lot of fuel wasn't always an option. So the stir-fly process, which used an intense flame for a short period of time became the cooking technique of choice. Chopping everything into small bite sized portions in the cooking process required less fuel to cook, which is anoth- er reason why you rarely see a slow-cooked honey-baked ham on the menu of most Chinese menus. TMD: So if you were writing this food review and not me, what would you write? MG: China Gate does a great job overall. The crab cheese is different, but is fantastic, and the hot and sour soup is perhaps the best I've had in Ann Arbor. They're located at 1201 S. University Ave. Their hours are 10 KELLY LiN/DaHy At China Gate, your water glass will never be empty. It is; noted to have one of the fastest turnaround times in A2. a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week. Kung Pao anything is superb, and the prices are reasonable (mostly under $10, with lunch specials under $'7) and served with rice and soup. They also do take-out. Off the beaten path: Gettig officampusforfood and music By Uzzle Horovitz and David Yowell Daily Arts Writers Ask most any University student about a good place to get food and hear music in Ann Arbor and you will most likely be told to check out The Ark, The Bird of Paradise or The Blind Pig. Unbeknownest to most students, Ann Arbor is home to a wide range of restaurants and bars that feature music on a regular basis. The music scenes at these venues vary from jazz to folk and everything in between. We've done the hard work for you and reviewed some of the lesser known off-campus bars and restau- rants that feature music. Del Rio The atmosphere of the Del Rio is best described as eclectic. At first glance the Del Rio appears to be decorated in the fashion of a local old-style tavern - with dim lighting, raw brick walls and a bar that stretches the length of the small restaurant. However, upon further examination, one sees the little idiosyncrasies that ~ ~ make this place unique; church pews that serve as v benches, artwork that seems to have no rele- van~e. at all and a menu that ranges from typical offerings such as nachos and pizza (according to a waitress, the "best-kept secret in town") to home- made tempeh chili. Even_ the ethnic name, the "Del Rio" seems to have been chosen at random, as the most Mexican aspect of the whole place is per- haps the nachos. The Del Rio offers evening music Sunday from 6 to 9 p.m. and Tuesday from 5 to 7 p.m. There is never any cover for the featured Sunday night jazz or the Tuesday night "acoustic" sets. The Old Town Tavern I Located at 122 West Washington St., the Del Rio offers a wide range of music. While jazz is usually featured on Sundays (with a fairly regular set of rotat- ing bands), the Tuesday-night acoustic fea- tures have ranged in the past from folk to classical to flamenco. The wide range in the menu and music offer- ings are, if anything, representative of the wide range of customers that come to enjoy them- selves and the music at the Del Rio. The cus- tomers are usually an eclectic mix of townies and students. No matter who you are, and what kind of music you may enjoy, there is "some- thing for everyone at least one time a month," a waitress at the restaurant said. The Del Rio is a great option for those seek- ing to hear live music in a comfortable atmos- phere, and who appreciate good drinks and very affordable food. Be forewarned, however, the music is loud and is not conducive to con- versation. This is a great place to come with friends if you are just looking to kick-back on a Sunday or Tuesday and hear some tunes. Music listings are available in The Current, a free local event listing available in campus buildings and coffee shops. Old Town Tavern For the past 15 years, local folk musicians have made their way to the family-owned Old Town Tavern every Sunday night to play music of the folk and bluegrass genre. Starting at 8 p.m. and often lasting well-beyond the desig- nated 10 p.m. ending time, the Old Town Tav- ern plays host to folk and acoustic music offerings. Performers have been known to include Charlie Weaver, Jay Steiltra, Jim Roll, Chris Buhalis 3 and Rollie 4 x Tussing III - 1 . all well-known in Ann Arbor's local folk scene. While the Old Town has a rotating list of local bands, ~new,, bands also play here. S Often times Safter playing at the Ark, musi- cians are sent to the Old Town on a S un d ay evening to ~"T~ play a couple of sets, said Liz Davis, the _ self-described RYAN WEINER/Daily "manager for located at 122 W. Liberty St. 1,000 years." A Tavern since 1867, thus making it one of the oldest bars still running in the area, the Old Town offers a neighborhood feel where "most of the staff, just like the regulars, haven't changed much," Davis said. The Sunday night crowd of regulars is a mix of musicians and locals, most of whom know each other from years past. The student faction is small, and you are more like- ly to find grad students here than undergrads. Although the Old Town certainly plays host to a number of regulars, newcomers alike are wel- comed, "I fight to maintain an atmosphere where lots of people feel welcome'" says Davis. Favorite dishes in the Tavern include the que- Harris-Behling and Jake Reichbart. Harris- sadillas, burgers and ribs. The beers on tap are Behling, a School of Music grad student, usual- Michigan beers, with the favorite being Bells, ly covers Tuesday evenings while Jake brewed out of Kalamazoo. However, Davis is Reichbart, a professional musician, covers quick to point out that "good old-fashioned Wednesdays. The music was originally started American Beers are holding their-own against to attract more customers on the slowest nights Bell's." The Old Town has been compared in of the week. While manager Stephen Kasle the past to the closest place to Cheers you can claims that sometimes there are so many people find in Ann Arbor. This is a place where after you can hardly hear the music, last Tuesday playing a set, band members will often walk there were only about four tables occupied in around and chat with the ~ audience. If you enjoy folk music< and the feel of a well-estab- lished neighborhood bar, ~ the Old Town is the place to Al go. The Old Town is locat-- 4. ed at 122 West Liberty St. Prices are affordable and music listings are availableNo in The Current.Y Kerrytown Bistro The evening music avail- > able at 'the Kerrytown Bistro is not meant to be F the main feature for diners. This is strikingly apparentA when you walk into the Bistro to find the musical talent set up directly in front of you, looking rather 6 crammed in next to the host's booth. Aesthetic appeal (or lack thereofo the music set-up aside, the mix of quiet jazz and romantic guitar playing is quite effective as what it is Patrons relax at Conor O'Neils, located at 318 S. Main St. For sports fans who want to check out the Irish jam on Sundays but don't want to miss watching the Lions get pummeled, O'Neill's has a solution - grab a pint of stout and take in the music while watching the game on their big screen. Bar patrons who bring an appetite to O'Neill's are also welcome to take a look at the menu, which is filled with traditional Irish selections from shepherd's pie to corned beef and cabbage. Conor O'Neill,'s is a great place t~o get together with friends for a care- free, good time. While it features 4the atmosphere, food and, of course, beer that is expected from an. S Irish pub, O'Neills live music really sets it apart, and shouldn't be missed. The Earle ... One of the best places to go in Ann Arbor to really et the royal treatmenlt ~is The Earle. This upscale restauarant and bar is dark and cozy -a great place to go to JESSICA YURASEK/Daily impress a date. The Earle's cui- sine is described on their menu as "country cooking from the provinces of France and Italy." You definitely do get what you pay for - entrees are priced at about $20 each and are worth every penny. In addition to an excellent meal, The Earle also provides a magnificent atmosphere. The walls of the restaurant are lined with wine bottles and the lighting is dark and intimate. The whole place emanates a feeling of wealth and elegance. Contributing to the mood of the restaurant is the live music which is featured nightly at The Earle. Pianists or guitar players are featured Monday through Wednesday and the Rick Burgess Trio plays Friday and Saturday nights. The jazz acts that play at The Earle serve as a perfect backdrop for a delicious meal or a night out at the bar, and there is no cover charge t~o check it out. The Earle is a wonderful place to go for a celebration or a big date. It is an intimate setting with excellent food and entertain- ment. While it is certainly not a casual bar, The Earle is an unbeatable place for special occasions. 4 is meant to be - background music for customers who seek a quiet, romantic evening. A romantic evening at the Kerrytown Bistro is almost unavoidable; with luscious meals that appeal to taste, smell and sight, as well as a warm, picturesque atmosphere with dim lighting, intimate candle-lit tables, open- brick walls and beautiful hardwood floors. The Kerrytown Bistro boasts both aesthetic and saporific appeal. On Tuesday and Wednesday evenings, it delightfully appeals to the auditory senses as well. Though the manager, Stephen Kasle, claims that the Kerrytown Bistro attracts an "eclectic" crowd, this is a place where you can imagine finding your Romantic Literature professor out to an anniversary dinner with his or her spouse (not that we did or anything). The crowd here is older and well, richer. Unless your budget allows for entrees on up from $17 (for the stuffed squash) to $32 (for the rack of lamb, which, incidentally is supposed to be fantastic) you had better plan on sticking to the salads and appetizers. Plates may, however, be split at no extra charge. The music featured is that of guitarists John the entire restaurant (out of an estimated twenty or so). Whether a full-house appeals to you or not, if you are looking for mood-setting music to accompany a quiet, romantic evening the Kerrytown Bistro on a Tuesday or Wednesday evening is the place. Conor O'Neill's Those interested in experiencing a truly authentic Irish pub need go no further than Main Street to get a real taste of the emerald isle. Conor O'Neill's brings the distinct feel of an Irish pub right to downtown Ann Arbor, from its traditional decor to its friendly, relaxed atmosphere. One of the standout characteristics of O'Neill's is its live music. On Sunday evenings the bar holds its Traditional Irish Session - a chance for local musicians to bring along a fid- dle or an accordion and participate in an open and informal acoustic Celtic jam. This event happens every Sunday at about 6 p.m. In addi- tion to the weekly jam session, Conor O'Neill's also features live Irish music by artists such as Mossy Moran and Bill Long at 9:30 pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays. 4 U U Re .ndez-vous Cafe offers Mideast fare YouN may bego COLLEGE, but is our hair still in HIGH ISSL By Ellen McGarrity Daily Arts Writer Seeking a cafe with some exotic flair? Then Rendez-vous Cafe on South University is your place. Serving American food with a Middle Eastern twist, as well as a selection of coffee drinks, this two- story restaurant has been a favorite among Michigan students for ten years now. Manager Abou Lakredine feels that the best part about the caf6 is its convenience for students. Open a whopping twenty-two hours a day, from 6 a.m. to 4 a.m., it provides an alternative place to study for late night crammers. "The libraries close and (the stu- And if you're in the mood for something more filling, this cafe also serves crepes, sandwiches and salads. "I like the nutella crepes best because they give you such a liberal amount of nutella that you can even pick it off the plate after you're done with the crepe - that's the fun part!" LSA junior Jia-En Teo said. Teo also said that Rendez-vous is good not only for eating but also for socializing. "I love studying there as well as people watching - such an eclectic bunch of people hang out there," Teo said. The cafe has lunch specials every day also, like Monday's chicken shawarma, a Middle Eastern dish with marinated chicken covered in a amdr 1 ASH-LEY HARPER/Daily This smoothie from Rendez-vous Cafe will satisfy your sweet tooth.