A 1* Last year my roommate and I would go religiously to get coffee after a night of studying at The Grad. On cold winter nights we would sit for hours and watch people scurry past on the sidewalk. It was during these late- night coffee sessions that we "bonded" and had some of our best laughs. Ann Arbor is filled with wonderful coffee houses, where the aroma of cappuccino hangs in the air like an ethereal perfume. Each place has a distinctive ambiance, a unique raison d'etre. Some cater to the introvert, some to the poseur, and some to the expect to find themselves in the Andes mountains followed by Juan Valdez and his burro. "Everyone is starting to smell like this on campus, it seems," said Jennifer Brown, LsA junior. Brown, a smoker, is not bothered by the residual smoke scent on her clothes when she leaves the caf6. The smoky haze which hovers over the caf6 should diminish when a new smoke filtration system is installed, said Lancanster. Many customers complain that the caf6 is too noisy and congested. As an alternative, they may now find caffeine bliss at a second Cafd Espresso located on Main Street. The Main Street Caf6 opened two months ago. The store caters to the bourgeois as well as the intelligentsia. It serves pasta salads and features a coffee-of- the-day; typical flavors include Tanzania Sumatra and Mexican Altura. Manthri Srinath, managing partner of Caf6 Espresso, said that today's upscale coffee shops have their roots in the "beatnik cafes" of the late '50s and early '60s. Although the popularity of these caf6s waned in the "Me Decade", they have enjoyed a resurgence in recent years, mainly on college campuses. Srinath said the focus of his store is product and service quality. "We're on a mission to bring good coffee wherever we go," he said. He added that the caf6 is a "cultural phenomenon on the rise. As the world gets more hectic, people need more ways to find leisure time." The cafe is a great way to escape, he said. Beginning next month the Main Street Cafe Espresso will present The Lunch Bunch Series, a local children's theater group. The group will perform on Saturdays during two showtimes. This December another theater group called It's not Tv will perform a serialized version of the play "Table Manners" from The Norman Conquests by Alan Acykbourn. Srinath predicts that the theater troupes will provide a "nice diversion" from the norm. "This is the kind of town that would appreciate something like this," he said. Though the Main Street Cafe Espresso has the same coffee menu, the decor and atmosphere contrasts with the State Street cafd. Track lighting and modern upward-facing lamp fixtures bathe the store with light. Sea- green and sky-blue walls create a soothing, calming effect. Artwork from the Ann Arbor Artists' Co-op is displayed for sale in both stores. The Main Street store is more spacious and less noisy. Conversations percolate easily between the customers. As in the State Street caf6, succulent pastries displayed in glass cases stare up at customers sinfully, irresistibly. An Ann Arbor couple, dressed in formal attire and drinking rich, mahogany concoctions with frothing cream topping, stared wistfully into a symphony program as they visited the caf6 one night. They had just come from Hill Auditorium. "It's the perfect place to end the evening - to have a coffee and a sweet, " they agreed. Two young brothers across the room sipped French sodas through tall straws. Their parents chuckled as their sons lifted their heads from their sodas with thin milk moustaches. Just around the corner on W. Washington St. lies the elegant Amadeus Cafd and Patisserie. When patrons enter Amadeus, they are transported into 18th Century Central Europe. In the windows hang delicate, white Viennese drapes. The refinished wooden floors are bathed in the muted light of globe lanterns. Paul Strozynski, the owner of Amadeus, takes pride in his single-handed renovation of the 100-year-old edifice. Strozynski grew up in Poland and spent one year in Vienna before coming to America two years ago. Schooled in mechanical design, he remodelled the exterior and interior of the caf6. A velvet, crimson-colored drape, in European style, forms a semi-circle around the doorway. It is parted slightly to keep the cold air out in winter and to retain the cool air in the summer. An arch motif is repeated on the outside and along the brick walls inside. Bright yellow gladiolas adorn the tables. Artwork from galleries in Poland and the Soviet Union hang beneath circular corinthian plaster molds. "It's intimate and uplifting. It's very quiet and very European. This is real," said customer Kay Gould-Caskey. She and Jim Johnson are co-owners of the Falling Water Bookstore. They go to Amadeus to relieve stress and find relaxation. "There's absolutely no pretense to this place. It's not trying to be something it isn't," Johnson said. Amadeus is renowned for its authentic Central European pastry and coffee selections. Pastries include fresh fruit tarts, eclairs, chocolate turtles, European rum cakes, lemon torts, and other mouth-watering wonders. Viennese Coffee, served hot or chilled, is the specialty. It is prepared with a tempting combination of caramel, whipped cream and cinnamon. Most nights Amadeus hosts live musicians, including violin duos, classic guitar, Hungarian Folk music and Russian ballads. Strozynski said many of his guests come from the University's School of Music. A trip to Amadeus is truly a cultural experience. Tucked away on S. Fourth Avenue is the French Market Caf, modelled after its world famous namesake in New Orleans. There you can sip cafd au lait and feast on beignets (fried dough with powdered sugar) and scrumptious pecan rolls. Large, potted plants hang from the ceiling. A brass chandelier casts a diffused light over the eating area. The smell of fresh-brewed coffee lurks in the air. One of the most popular coffee requests is chicory coffee, said Richard Brown, the store's manager and owner. Chicory coffee is brewed with plant extract and has a strong flavor, he said. The cafe also serves cappuccino and espresso. Across the street on the corner of S. Fourth Avenue and E. Liberty Street is Bill's Coffee Cup, a modest, no-frills coffee shop. There are no specialty coffees offered, only two choices: brown and orange. A U-shaped counter with worn blue swivel stools is the center of activity. There are 10 tables in the back room for larger parties. Bill's Coffee Cup, which opened in the '50s, is a place for "real people" said Joe Bell, an Ann Arbor resident. "It's convenient and it's predictable," he added. Amonda Stokes, one of the waitstaff, said that a "lot of working people" frequent Bill's. "They're just in for something like home. Nothing too fancy," she said. A stroll down E. Liberty, a right on S. State Street and a left on N. University will lead to the Ann Arbor classic, Drake's Sandwich Shop. Drake's opened in 1929 and the basic structure has remained exactly the same, said Jo Ouwehand, the store manager. "One thing I hear a lot is that people feel like they are in a time o warp. It is old looking without U being pretentious because it's all real," she said. The walls of Drake's are papered with Michigan memorabilia. Customers can take a mini-tour of the history of the University by reading the yellowing newspaper clippings, playbills, black and white photos and sports announcements. A guest list attests to the popularity of the shop. Some guest names include Helen Hayes, Mr. Smucker of Smucker's jellies and jams and All-American Michigan football star, Tom Harmon. Patron Warren Kaericher, a Salem township resident, likes Drake's because of the many different kinds of tea and the "odd little candies". Drake's has retained its jet- black tin ceiling and pea-green wooden booths. It is dimly lit and nostalgia peers at customers from every angle, from the 1930 refrigerator to the shelves upon shelves of candy jars. There are six different kinds of chocolate almonds and 20 varieties of cordials. Those who go to Drake's are bound to meet "tons of weird, neat people" said Ouwehand. Kaericher frowns on the expanding coffee shop craze. He said State and Main Street has changed drastically since he was last in Ann Arbor seven years ago. "The town is becoming slowly more upscale. There's so much of the same stuff," he said. Cut through the Diag and follow S. University to Church Street to find the chic, new hot spot, Amer's Mediterranean Deli. Amer's theme focuses on "Capturing the true flavor of the Mediterranean with selections from the finest and richest Italian coffees, exotic Middle Eastern and kosher style sandwiches, to delicate French pastries." The owner, Amer Bathish, graduated from the University in 1987 with a degree in electrical engineering. He has never had a course in business or design. Yet, at age 25, he owns two businesses. His second deli is in Flint. The Church Street deli opened the day before Art Fair last July. Bathish has traveled world- wide. He has imbued his deli with a European flair. "When you walk in here you see tradition and modern both. I want a smart-looking place," he said. Amer's boasts a 19 and one- half hour workday. Tyler Oliver, tsA senior, spends up to five hours in Amer's each week. Recently, Oliver took a trip to Italy and became addicted to strong coffee. Of Amer's he said, "This is the closest thing I could get to that." Bathish said he has brought together the "highest quality in everything." Such excellence is reflected in the Godiva pastry display cases, the elaborate red oak pillars on the facade and French door and the tile floor. A sophisticated exhaust system, coupled with 14-foot- high ceilings and four ceiling fans, eliminates all traces of smoke. "You're not gonna come out of this place smelling like smoke," Bathish said. Amer's coffee selection is exhaustive. Four gourmet coffees are offered daily, in addition to the usual cappuccino, espresso, caf6 con leche and other fine brews. The pastries are also exquisite and vary daily. You can even get homentaghen, an indigenous Middle Eastern temptation. Which cafe appeals the most to me? Amadeus- for its serenity and sophistication. Where should you go? It depends. What's your raison d'etre? Think about it... but only over a cappuccino. .r- " : . : f . , r.r ., classic romantic. (Like me). How do you decide where to go for that perfect blend of mood and palate pleasers? I went to almost every coffee shop in town to answer this question. I wanted to know what contributed to the myths and stereotypes of each place. What is their allure? I wondered. This is what I found. "The people themselves create what we have here. We provide the background," said Lisa Lancaster, general manager for Cafe Espresso Royale on S. State Street. Cafe Espresso Royale opened two years ago and has become one of the most talked-about coffee shops in town. In fact, the cafd is rarely called by its proper name. It has been nicknamed Cafd Pretentious, Cafd Intellectuoso, Caf6 Kafka, Cafd Ashtray, Cafd Black Turtleneck, Caf6 Existential, Caf6 Depresso, just to name a few. Lancaster is not bothered by the store's pseudonyms. "It means you're popular!" she smiled. For die-hard java junkies or for those who just want to fill it to the rim one time, "getting coffee" in Ann Arbor satisfies different cravings. Michael Rubel, LsA junior, spends up to two hours each day in Cafd Espresso. Rubel, an English and Philosophy major, enjoys reading Madame Bovary and Sartre over a cup of tea or coke. "Do you come here more than anywhere else ?" I asked Rubel. "I come to Cafd Espresso more than I have really good sex," Rubel joked. Cafe Espresso's store front, a large window, is ideal for people- watching. Inside, green plants line ceiling-high wall-to-wall mirrors, ideal for self-watching. Caf6 Espresso's coffee scent is so strong that patrons might 6 WEEKEND October 5, 1990 .r