Sunday, February 1 19 15 THE MICHIGAN DAtL1t Page Five Sunday, February 1, l91f~ THE MICHIGAN DAlL~r _ Baker: Con fectionary artist Ernie: Turning cOw into steak (Continued fro:n Page 3) 27-year-old son, Jim, can be During a typical lunch hour, one ; ple who have money to spend today's modern bakers who found shoveling 70 pounds of s young helper perches atop a but know nothing about the learn only how to "push a but- flour into a yeast and water four-foot pile of plain brown business. They have to go to ton and punch a little dough. mixture. The bowl he is using is flour sacks eating a sandwich school just to learn how to "We take a little pride in our large enough to sit in and a and gulping milk. Nearby, an- make donuts." work here. For instance, a lot five-foot-tall mixer gently other young worker uses a large Lutz also knew nothing of of places make up their roses pummels the dough. On the oth- shortening drum for a table- baking when he first came into: ahead of time and then just set er side of the room, a man is top. the business. But, he learned them on the cake. They use that feeding cookie dough into a fun- ALTHOUGH THE BAKED quickly-graduating right from Royal icing - I don't know if nel that spits out perfectly goods are mass produced, the delivery truck route to you've ever heard of it or not shaped cookies in neat little a certain amount of individual;' prima donna position of cake but it getshsorhard you can't rows onto a conveyor belt. attention is still possible. While decorator. even eat it. We decorate the The machinery is massive Lutz decorates cakes, a paun- " READ SOME books and cakes with the same icing we and imposing. The oven holds chy, silver - haired baker dips practiced and I learned to frost them with and I make the 78 large baking pans and one his hand into a large pan ofmke,, roses right there on the sur- could almost drown in the vats ! chocolate glaze, and coats the says. "But thingsdare different face." of hot oil. To the unindoctri- top of each eclair individually. toay Th ' THE PERFECTIONIST atti- nated, the scene resembles a , Nearby, another baker fusses bakers around anymore. Why,!, tude Lutz has toward his factory more than a bakery. over a 10-foot strip of cinnamon the younger generation doesn't work also pervades the rest of When the mixers are going, the Danish dough, making sure the ee yowge diference e-. the bakery. Most of the bakers conveyor belts are moving, and width and texture is correct. tween yeast-raised donuts and have been there since World ' the bread slicer is in operation, Lutz also credits the quality fried cakes. To them, Long War II and at least one of them, the din reaches cacophonous of his products to the recipes Johns, Bismarcks - they're all was there during the 1920's, ' level. Still, Lutz, insists, "We're "which have been handed down s-the same." shortly after Lutz's father-in- a small-time operation in com- for years." He says the national But, this mass ignorance law first opened the bakery. As parison with the commercial donut franchises turn out an in- doesn't rell mcss all a result, burnt buns and soggy bakeries." ferior product because the use that m really concern Lutz all cakes are rare. Each baker ex-, And it seems he is right. Des-, prepared mixes rather than him these days is the money- ecutes the recipes with flawless | pite the clanging machinery starting from scratch. min sie of the sne perfection, despite the enormous and mammoth equipment, a "Their product simply isn't mak inside of the business and quantities involved. j casual, familial atmosphere as good as ours," he asserts the increasing encroachment of On a typical morning, Lutz's i seems to envelop the bakery. "They always seem to be peo- national franchise on his trade. rWe really only turn a nro- (Contiued from Page 3) steak, $1.99 a pound. Lookit! ' a year . . . and I've had prob- "Working in restaurants and meat's tough." You go to a big that fat would cost you 50' lems." He pointed to deep packing houses gets you good store, they'll say - his voice cents." gouges in his wrist and a scar-pahesi.'ohdunn rumbled with mock authority- et.gue nhswitdasa- pay ," he said. "You had union rumbled ith mock mauthri- red finger. "I ran myself shops, you had protection. But We're not responsible. We ut ;UDDENLY HE reached into through the wrist once, and the all you did was face the wall S or e .the trash can behind the slicer took this finger off, but and take orders all day. You meat counter and retrieved an- they glued it back on." worked inside of a cold ice box. other, larger lump. He held the You couldn't talk to the people, Ajlouny turned back todhis fat aloft like a trophy. "Today," , Ajlouny moonlights as a free- you know. You just worked with customer, a student. "And a; Ajlouny said, "a woman came lance nightclub comedian-prob- the animals. That's why I left." pound of Swiss?" The store's in and boughtn one of those ably the only one who writes; electric slicer, still hungry after steaks, and while I was weigh his scripts between customers WOULD HE want his two chil- the roast beef, attacked a block1ing it, I saw this piece of fat at a meat counter. dren, ages 3 and 12, to be of Swiss cheese and Ajlouny be- that shouldn't have been there. butchers? gan to smell like a hoagie. His family immigrated to the United States from a Palestinian "Oh God no " Ajlouny "So I cut it off! It's no dif- town six miles outside of Jeru- paused and smiled awkwardly. Tyhe becrted tohis mat'sed w- ferent than being an art stu- salem. Ajlouny worked in De- "No . . . Hell, if I had had an- wys he boast, isaghiendrho: dent. They do a picture, they troit packing houses and local other choice, sure, I would have aons aDetroit slaughterhouse like people to like it." le waved restaurants, including Campus taken it . . . There's nothing per's hamburger shipments, foP at the display shelf, a garden Inn and the Gandy Dancer, be- wrong with it-if you can make exarmple, will contain no grd of European cheeses, plucked fore opening Sergeant Pepper's' a good living and have time to eample ilcont chickens, and fire - engine - red in 1971. do other things." steaks. "When that counter is - done, I want it look good. If it He has a beef with the indus- doesn't look good, it doesn't get try's latest packing methods, bought. Don't forget, the meat's too. going into your stomach." "Now they can slaughter the Ajlouny also puts no stock inCL MICH.LUMON 763.214 cattle in Iowa and put it in a the current industry fad of vacuum-sealed bag," Ajlouny breeding cattle with buffalo into said. "They suck the air out of ' "beefalo" f o r a reportedly the bag, and it can be stored higher grade of meat. "I don't like that for six weeks. Then it believe," he laughed, "in inter-AU comes to the big stores in nice' marriage. I'll stick to cows." chunks-all they bother to do is Spring Break Vacation chop it up. You know what Even that, however, is a pushes them? They got to have limited prospect for independent MARCH 5-12 a profit. So they don't even meat-cutters, Ajlouny said. bother with trimming the fat le took a pair of cookie-sized "BUTCHERS ARE f a d i n g + TAX Ile ooka pir f cokiesizd i away, you know, the small' fat lumps and weighed them. ones at least. We don't make DEADLINE FEB 2 "Look at this! It's off round' too much. 1 make maybe $15,000 The operator: Inside system fit six w around sugar p a lot of by the business our pric had it 1( don't kn hakerv IFm here the telephone (Continued from Page 3) "WELL,THAT'S w h a t I thought it was like before I came here and when I started there were still some women here who sort of resembled that idea," Shari said of the typical Hollywood movie portrayal of Edith the Operator. But the birth of the electronic system four years ago systematically destroyed the ancient stereo-' type. "There's a mechanism thati times each call as it comes in and it records how long it takes3 the operator to handle it," Shari said raising her enormous eyes to receive the noddina annroval ing that this guy wanted some- As a seven-year veteran of not done one hot and sexy to talk to so the other end of the Bell Sys- "But.' she just gave the call to her tem, Shari has fitted herself le. "let' supervisor," she laughed. The well into the mold. She knows laid off Manager of Operator Services her job, inside and out, and both lihood." blushed. she and the manager for Opera- "They can't see us. I'm sure tor Services appeared mutually that's why they do those things," confident that Shari had no . Shari said as she fumbled complaints about her job - through her purse for another save a passing remark about' cigarette. claustrophobia. The Ann Arbor Irate callers, trying to find a Bell Telephone office building k hn Huron St. has few windows La pany's bureaucratic chain, ask to speak of, inkeeping with its operators to justify rate increas- high security system. ' es and high installation charges. "Sometimes during my break 'a I , Shari suggested that it's easier I go look outside just to see, for most people to yell at a what's doing," Shari laughed., telephone receiver ... faceless "I know it's still there ... but but all ears. just to see." weeks a year and that's Christmas. When the rices went un last year, small bakeries dropned wavside. We stayed in , but we had to raise es. It's been tough. If I to do all over again, I: nw if I'd go into the business. Sometimes e at 3:30 (a.m.) and I'm e until 5:30 (p.m.). " he says with a chuck- s face it. I haven't been or anything. It's a live- rwicn wetnre :rafdn \fr rts: Carenterest- Sreviewiai erytand music Sa b o u t th~e ra.dance, film E o ntactArs idtr, c/o The Aichigan Daily. I .m huck i Ouc&rtct SUNDAY, FEB. 1 8:00 p.m. University of Toledo Student Union Auditorium M angione VILLAGE VOICE: Man- gione, who has been I playing a n d recording for more than a decade, was much influenced by Dizzy Gillespie's con- trol, logic, and use of tension and release. 1 Tickets $4.5O. O u t l e t: Discount Records - S. University of the Manager of Operator Ser- vices. "Now the objective is about 39 seconds," she added. THERE ARE SPECIAL cases, W id c t I l 1 Cooking A STUDENT UNION BOARD PRESENTATION A though, where half a min- ute is just not sufficient for wrapping up business. tkreeci a dv far the fret The University of Michigan PROFESSIONAL THEATRE PROGRAM presents DAVID ATKINSON i "Once I had to time a worn-! % %a No NA A7% j ON "' Em " ' an's labor pains," Shari began,' her smile raising her precisely (Continued from Page 3) which scorched part of his face, want these up, over, around or sculpted cheek bones into prom- key, and before you know it, leaving it parched and brown. what? inence. "It was really scary. it's all dried out, he says. The For all his roughness, a thin His banter comes easily as We got her an ambulance and trick is to give it time. grey moustache evokes a 'cer- , his boys stream in. He involves while she was waiting for that After thirty years, Wildcat tam subtle sophistication, al- one in his favorite stories. and for her husband to arrive, has had plenty of time to de- most elegance. He is a gentle- "You know," he says serious- she was frantically talking velop his technique. His title man. In a tuxedo he could be ly as he bends over the stove, about these pains and there of house father has ceased to a sly croupier at a high-stakes "I had a lot of trouble with were clocks all around us so,... mean much; he used to chap- game of poker, and it's role he math when I was a little boy. erone fraternity brothers, over- might relish. But it would ap- My daddy came in to me one' ET, FOR THE most part cus- see parties, and see dates to peal to him only for a while. night and he gave me a little tomers are abrupt and to their door. Now he only cooks, 'His life has been restless. He's , box with a snake inside and he the point. Business people, for and does some maintenance. been a ships's cook, a postal said, 'Son, I want you to take example, simply rattle off credit He's a robust old man (no worker, a boxer, a Rocky Moun- this snake and you won't have card numbers. Then there are one knows for sure exactly how tain guide, a riflery instructor, any problems.' And sure enough, the beat-the-system set who put old he is) crackling with en- and a mortician. Undoubtedly, I used that snake and pretty person to person calls through ergy. Simultaneously preparing a few other things have been soon I was up to college level to themselves or to their pets breakfast, lunch and dinner for forgotten along the way. The in addition." in order to leave a toll-free fifty people is a snap. Short,' fraternity offered him some l message. thick rugged, he looks the re- eacetand heisaysehe's never "You see the n as an tired boxes he is.; regretted coming here. add er." e nk wsa Now it's seven minutes to adder. "We're in the middle of them seven and time for an inter- HE USES TWO hands to crack In his own old kitchen, in his lude. "I'm going downstairs to: an egg. The break is deft own old style, Al Wall begins don't pay much attention to the change my raiments," Wildcat and clean - the eggs a per- another day. operators," said Shari the "old says. feet sunny side up. Hustling - timers" who tboasts she rarely; He emerges six minutes later, now, he adds the last touches misses a prankster's trick. clothed in dark pants, a red- to breakfast. The first early checked shirt and a navy blue risers shuffle into the kitchen, Fending off "perverts" and cap. His skin is very leathery and Wildcat brightens. "inebriated sorts" is part of the - he was once recruited to' "Good mornin' there, he says, job. "One woman said this morn- help fight a forest fire out west gesturing to the eggs. 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(313) 662-2019 e A U I ?f k-;" ArAMoulI PIUS GOURMET NATURAL FOOD RESTAURANT ,' - - - - - - - - - - - - - U IN 1972, 16,000 U-M students called for the creation of a unique oraanization in Michiqan. It would be funded by students, controlled by students and it would attack problems that students thought were important. It would be called Public Interest Research Group in Michian, or PIRGIM So for PIRGIM'S full-time professional staff has investigated emergency medical care, ex- cessive Pentagon spending, the transportation of radioactive wastes, unnecessary govern- mental secrecy, the rental housing market, the high price of food, and a lot more, all IN THE STUDENT INTEREST. Limited Engagement SHOWS TODAY AT 1:35- 3:20-5: 10-7 10-9:10 OPEN AT 1-15 "***%--Stunning! The shock ending ex- plodes in a thought-provoking nightmare." -ANN GUARINO, N.Y. Daily News "Acted and directed with burning intensity. It hardly lets you breathe from one episode to the next. A searring\study ... well worth the cinema trip." FRANCES HERRIDGE, N.Y. Post JACQUE5-lC5TMAUSS. JEAN-LOUIS ; TRINTIGNANT MARLENE JOBERT I