a special feature SUNDA V MORNNG I. on travel in Africa Number 80 Page Four Sunday, April 8, 1973 Africa: A journey to the Motherland .4 4 By WILLIAM DEMERSON III/ BAMIDELE AGBASEGBE INCE MY CHILDHOOD I've main- tained a close instinctual and emotional bond with Africa despite the Tarzan, Jane, Boy and Cheetah stereo- types I was subjected to. I have man- aled to transcend the racism and ethnocentrism inflicted on me and my brothers. With a heightened sense of pride in my African cultural heritage, I, like many of my peers, wore dashikis, beads and the "Afro," studied Swa- hili and read extensively about my brothers in Africa and in the dias- pora. I thought of returning "home" frequently. What was left for me to accomplish was a pilgrimage to the land of my ancestors, Africa. FORTUNATELY in some respects and unfortunately in others, I am a student of anthropoloav - that "child of imperialism" whose practitioners pride themselves in sunposedly being ahle to describe the life ways of so- cieties around the globe. My "aca- demic" interest in Africa led me to re- search the essence of African commu- nities and their social organization- specifically, a project on social chance and family organization among the Yoruba and Ashanti neoples. With cumbersome luggage contain- ing an anthropological reference text on kinship, notebooks, pens and in- dex cards, a pocket instamatic cam- era, several rolls of film and a few garments, I set out to see myself in the land of my forefathers. My charter flight from New York transported 250 Blacks, most of whom were New Yorkers headed for study- tour programs in West Africa. They came for varied reasons - some in search of identity, a few to visit old friends, some to study and some to fall into the. trap of being ethnocentric American tourists. When we disembarked at Kotoka In- ternational Airport in Accra, the capi- tal of Ghana, a crowd of Ghanians cheered and applauded from the up- per level of the airport. It was hard to believe I was finally in the Mother- land. What a good feeling! Accra was my first real introduction to Africa and of all the interesting sites and events to explore, nothing was more fascinating than the mar- ketplaces. Women were vibrantly at- forefathers brutalized in these cham- bers of exploitation with no light and little ventilation was horror inspiring. Many cried, others became outraged; some left stunned with disbelief, un- able to verbalize their deep feelings. From Cape Coast many journey westward to Nkroful, the birthplace of the late Dr. Kwami Nkrumah, the first prime minister of Ghana who was known for his fight against colo- nialism and his zeal for Pan-African- ism. Between major cities, a traveler may stop at small villages by paying to ride the lorries which transport women traders and their goods from village to town. I headed north to Kumasi, capital city of the proud people of the Ashanti Kingdom and a major area for my re- search. I spent several days there col- lecting data through interviews and general observation. The receptive and hospitable peo- ple gave me an Ashanti name, and one of my friends gave me his sur- name, Sarpong. Friends accomnanied me to the marketplace to insure that I would not be taken advantage of by traders. After I learned the basic nrice and vained some skill in barenininc, I oft- en went to the market alone. I amused the traders when I insisted they look at me as a fellow Black man rather than a foreigner. I told them I refused to pav nripes directed at Euroneans an'd Americans since I was a Blnek r:n. of African heritane. These bar- o)inino sessions often led to animated and informative conversations, and I was able to niirchsae goods at a price I considered fair. T next stonned at Ife. the ancient relieious center 'of the Yorias and )nother targp-t nrea for my resenreh. Since T dressed lake a Yoruha. many nAon1e were snrnrised to discover that I was born in the U. S. They were even more surnrised when my Nigerian friend who had studied with me in the States eyniained that I also wear tra- ditional Yoruba garments here. Manv Yorubas remarked with as- surance that my ancestors must have been Yoruba. I looked like a Yoruba man. The Yorubas expressed a great deal of interest in my ancestral origins and inauired if I knew the location of my home, the village, city or town of my forefathers. Some maintained that Ife was definitely my home, or I would not have felt compelled to jour- ney there, When I was introduced to Yoruba people, we performed the traditional greetings, bending, bowing and in- quiring about the health of each oth- er's family. All were receptive to my limited usage of common Yoruba phrases. They extended their own manner of greeting to me rather than shaking my hand as if I were a stranger. of thea AS I TRAVELED through small towns and villages in the historic land of the Yoruba, I found gracious people eager to help me with my re- search. When I arrived in a town, a dinner was often prepared "especially for me". The after dinner discussion usually ended up being about "Ameri- ca." Although many villagers had never seen Blacks from America, they expressed a deep interest in topics such as discrimination, the permanent return of Blacks from the Western Hemisphere to Africa, the high cost of living in America and the war in Viet Nam, The literal translation of "Bamide- le" is "follow me home" or "come home with me." Names in Africa have a social significance and are giv- en to children according to some con- dition, event or characteristic sur- rounding their birth. A father would give the name "Bamidele" to a child born in a region or country that is not the father's hometown. A child so named should not consid- er his geographic birthplace his home. Rather he should look to the home of his father as his true home. When a father names his son "Bamidele", he is merely saying "follow me home." My "baba" in Nigeria told me I was born in a land foreign to me, Ameri- ca. He stressed that his home was my home and that once I completed my studies in America, I should follow him home to Nigeria. This account was based on my first trip to Africa. The incidents, events, encounters and experiences of that trip will always be remembered as my first impressions of the Motherland. Of course, my account does not con- .1 4 "The solemn experience brought pain to all of us as we trehed through the hidden chambers and narrow passageways. To us, the castles were huge white tombs'strangely aminated by the spirits of our ancestors who died within their walls." I Daily Photo by STUART HOLLANDER Barmidele Agbasegbe: " F olI0, it Ie'ne" tired in long dresses and wrap arounds with matching head ties. Men wore brilliantly colored garments commonly called "up and downs." Muslim men were dressed in long robes of pastel hues. A LTHOUGH I didn't speak any of the indigenous languages, many peo- ple spoke English (Interestingly, En- glish is the official language of Ghana.) Besides, while bargaining with the women traders of cloth and the other craftsmen, a kind of friend- ly communication developed which transcended the barriers of language. After I had an "up and down" tailor- ed for myself at the market, many Ghanians took me for a fellow coun- tryman despite my longer hair. Most Blacks visiting Ghana feel compelled to go to the Cape Coast and El Mina to visit the monumental cas- tles. Here many of our ancestors were held captive in dismal underground dungeons before being herded onto ships bound for the shores of the New World. The solemn experience brought pain to all of us as we trekked through the hidden chambers and narrow passage- ways. To us, the castles were huge white tombs strangely animated by the spirits of our ancestors who died with- in their walls. The memory of our Since I had done extensive research, on the Yorubas and other African so- cieties, I perceived cultural patterns that most first-time visitors to Africa are unaware of. I tried to observe the norms I was familiar with. People commented that not only did I look like a Yoruba, but also that I conduct- ed myself like a Yoruba son, especially in the presence of my elders. [N TRADITIONAL African societies, "communalism" is the essence of life, practiced in both urban settings and rural villages. I was truly accept- ed into the Yoruba community. One elderly man in a village in Kwara State claimed me as his son. He al- ways addressed me as "omo mi" (my son). I called him "baba mi" (my fa- ther), He also gave me a Yoruba name, "Bamidele," and his surname, Agba- segbe. form to some stories told by Blacks who've had negative experiences In Africa. W/E MUST UNDERSTAND Africa on i her terms. From my experience, I can truly say that mother Africa op- ens her arms to receive all her chil- dren born in the West. We in the Black community should know better than anyone that A MOTHER NEVER RE- JECTS HER CHILDREN. Likewise, we should not reject our mother, Africa. William Demerson Ii/ Bamidele Agbasegbe is a senior in Anthropology and a member of the International Center's Work/Study/Tra- vel Abroad Office staff. The funding for the field work mentioned in this article was ob- tained from the Department of Anthro- pology and the Honors Council of the Uni- versity of Michigan. 0 .4 ,t Travel suggestions for visiting Africa By WILLIAM DEMER$ON III/ BAMIDELE AGBASEGBE !'AVEL TO AFRICA can be expen- sive - a factor discouraging many who want to visit the continent. For group inclusive tours to West Africa, prices start at $360 during the non- peak season (non-summer months). However some arranged 45 day tours to Africa can cost upwards of $2,000. If you don't want to travel with a, tour group, there are alternatives. Charter flights offer reduced rates during the peak season. Six-week flights to West Africa this summer start at bargain rates of $315. Flights to East Africa for 6 weeks cost $430. Gateway cities to Africa from the U.S. include .New York, Boston, Philadel- phia, Washington, Detroit, Chicago, Houston, St. Louis, Denver, Los An- geles, San Francisco and Seattle. Of course, a flight to Major points of Europe and then on to Africa, is an- other alternative for those who wish to see Europe and Africa in a limited time. If you don't like flying - you can always go by boat. Africa-bound travelers should con- tact the Educators to Africa Associa- tion of the African American Institute at 866 United Nations Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10017; the African Cultural Ex- change Inc., 21 Sutherland Road, Suite 9, Brighton Mass 02134; and the Hen- derson International Inc., of Atlanta, nrvin Tt nmnv hp holnlfto rvn.[ the the embassy or consulate of the par- ticular country that you desire to visit (for a minimal fee.) If you're going to several countries, the visas (if not obtained in the U.S.) may be granted by the embassies or consulates located in the capitals of the African States. The process may take from 48 hours to several weeks, depending on circumstances involved. If you are planning to return to a country, obtain a re-entry visa before leaving that country. At the point of entry, officials issue a "declaration form" on which you must record all valuables (including cameras), the amount of foreign cur- rency and the travellers cheques in your possession. Do not lose this form. It must be used to transact all mone- tary exchange in banques, hotels, and other government - approved places for exchange of cheques and curren- cies. The declaration form must be pre- sented upon your departure from the country. You are not allowed to take national currency with you in or out of the country. In most cases, you will either have to demonstrate your fin- ancial ability to support yourself dur- ing your stay in the country or present a ticket for an onward journey or de- parture. At the point of entry, you will be asked to give your address in that country. Carry several extra passport photographs. Note in some countries vnu're remuired tn reoister with a after injection) and cholera (valid for 6 months, after 6 days of injection). These vaccinations are also required by the United States Government be- fore re-entry is granted. Recommendation - get vaccinations against polio and typhoid. Gamma globulin inoculations for infectious hepatitis should be as near the date of departure (from U. S.) as possible. The vaccinations against small pox (valid for 3 years starting 8 days after vaccination) or cholera may be ob- tained from a licensed physician or a university health service center. How- ever there are officially designated vaccination centers for yellow fever. (See the nearest health department for information regarding the cen- ters). If yellow fever, small pox and polio vaccinations are not administered within a 24 hour period, then they must be given 14 days apart. Similarly yellow fever vaccine and gamma glob- ulin may be taken together. However, small pox and polio must be adminis- tered two weeks/14 days between gam- ma globulin. (If you are pushed for time vaccines for yellow fever and small pox should be taken within a 24 hour period.) Anti Malarial tablets must be taken every 7 days (500mgs/wk) on schedule. Some medical authorities recommend that you start taking the tablets two weeks before arriving in the malarial area. Others suggest that one week or even one day prior to your arrival in commended antibiotic for treating various infections. Be sure to take co- pies of the prescriptions of drugs that you will take with you. In case of breakage, it is advisable to take an extra pair of prescription glasses or a copy of the prescription. Drink water that has been boiled. If possible you should put a water puri- fication tablet in a glass of water and let it stand for approximately 8 min. before drinking. Some travel programs to Africa emphasize that short-term visitors should habitually make "off- the-street" food purchases. ACCOMMODATIONS FINANCIAL RESOURCES and tastes govern the type of accommoda- tions you'll seek. If you are the Mr. & Mrs. Middle America touristic type, then you're welcome to stay in Euro- American hotels that range up to and beyond $25 per day. There are also in- expensive "hotels" that run from $1 to $6 a night. The Y.M.-W.C.A in major cities pro- vides another type of arrangement for under $3. per night. Countries in North East Africa also have Youth Hostels available. During the summer it's pos- sible to stay in the residence halls of some West African universities. They may require proof of student status. The price ranges from $2 to $4 per night. Staying at universities provides you the opoortunity to meet fellow stu- the United States. This allows you to observe the social features of an Afri- can home and community. TRANSPORTATION A LL MAJOR varieties of transpor- tation are available to meet the needs of most people. There's air trav- el between all major cities. Inter- state travel is most efficient by train or bus. One popular method of trans- portation, especially from rural to town areas, is the lorry. In some places the fares are standard, in oth- er places they're not. Taxis are also available. Prices de- pend upon the country, region, city or town. Some places have set rates and routes. In others, where meters or standard rates are not used, the cus- tomer is expected to bargain with the. driver before an agreement is met on the taxi fare. Bicycles and motor cy- cles are also popular in West Africa. For those who wish to drive, an In- ternational Drivers License must be obtained from the A.A.A. (automobile club). In countries where there are several kilometers of navigable waterways, river transport offers another way of travel. MONEY DEPENDING upon your extrava- gance, you could spend as much as $500. in West Africa during a six weeks stay. However I have been able to survive with a maximum of $240 for leather works. Most shop keepers ex- pect you to bargain with them so thtey set their prices extremely high. Check the prices at several stalls in the mar- ket before purchasing. Of course, ex- pect to be charged somewhat higher prices because you are not indigenous to that area. Anyone traveling from America or Europe is immediately regarded as be- ing wealthy. In many countries cultur- al artifacts and antiques must be reg- istered at a national museum before you are given a permit to take such artifacts out of the country. DON'T FAIL TO DO THIS!! Avoid the shops that are obviously for Mr. & Mrs. Mid- dleclass American Tourists. BAGGAGE AND CLOTHING DURING THE SUMMER (June-Au- gust) West Africa will be warm (80*-85*), humid, with little rainfall. Everyone should travel as light as pos- sible. Carry only essentials. Cumber- some, over-sized luggage should be avoided. It causes too many inconven- iences. I have found that a shoulder bag and a large attache case are suf- ficient baggage. Be sure to carry the necessary toiletries and cold water detergent for washing clothes. Plastic bags come in handy for storing damp articles. You may wish to bring insect repellent. Don't forget sunglasses and swim- suits. Women should not plan to wear shorts. Remember electric articles re- quire an international converter.