1~ ~~76OMlL4o~4 t4~ . $.~3m e~rImo,..,rr .. a-ww . .1 . . .law * * of t- a O e " s -' Eighty-four years of editorial freedom Edited and managed by students at the University of Michigan Friday, Jarnuary 24, 1975 News Phone: 764-0552 420 Maynard St., Ann Arbor, Mi. 48104 Congress: Musical 'chairs' TOM HAYDEN SPEAKING before a crowd of eager young journalists last December stated that at the 1974 Democratic Convention commitments would have been acceptable to the 1962 SDS convention. It appears that Hayden may be right about the slow but inevitable change which is coming in our gov- ernment. With a massive victory in, the November election the Democrats in Congress are now catching up with the times. The Democrats biggest step thus far has been to oust older commit- tee chairmen who have been the big- gest obstacle to change in the past. Anyone familiar with the history of progressive legislation in Congress knows that civil rights legislation was held up for a good part of two decades by committee chairmen op- posed to equal rights. The case of Wright' Patman raises another question: how can an 81 year old congressman represent his constituents when more than half are younger than 25. Age alone is not reason enough to axe long standing leaders of govern- ment, but when they are the ones standing between the traditions of yesterday and the possibilities of to- morrow, it is time to turn the lead- ership over to new people. What will hopefully be the pattern of the future is a system not based on seniority but on ability to stimu- late progressive legislation. Among the actions Congress should take is the establishnent of watch- dog committees to look at various government institutions before they break the law instead of searching for the facts after a Watergate or case of domestic spying occurs. Along with this legislation, cutting back on defense spending, establish- ing a work incentive welfare pro- gram and corporate tax reform should be high on their list of priori- ties. A simple change of appearance will not accomplish this. There must be more behind the change of leader- ship in Congress than change for its own sake.- -TIM SCHICK I Part One Layin' lou By DAVID GARFINKEL "You go to the Jamaa," the girl from Liverpool continued, "and you stand there for one minute looking like a foreigner, and so many things will happen that you'll be dizzy for a week. You don't. look for things in Marrakech. They look for you." "Warn them about Jemail," the man said. "Oh, yes! Jemail you must be careful of. He's a little Arab boy about eleven years old. He lives in .the Jamaa. Speaks six or seven languages. And is the most evil human being since the Marquis de Sade." -James Michener "The Drifters" "MOROCCO" is the European name for the country, and is derived from the name of the city Marra- kech. The natives call their country "El-Maghrib." This is important for several reasons. First it shows the remains of the European influence; Morocco was French protectorate until March 2, 1955, and is now an independent kingdom. Also, it brings to mind the mistaken notion that all (or most) of the "fortunate kingdom" lies in Marrakech. Ah, Marrakech! Evokes visions of mystical honey- moons for Europeans, incredible spectacles, exotic crafts, . . . and DOPE. But Marrakech is only one of many Moroccos. Perhaps the greatest living cross- roads of Oriental and Occidental cultures, this nation has within her boundaries scenes of biblical verisi- militude palm-shaded estates, wretched p o v e r t y, snow-capped mountains, and one of the world's health- iest and most moderate climates, on the Atlantic coast. MY FRIEND Dotsen Acronym (not his real name) and I share a taste for the bizarre, and we decided to travel together into this land of surprises during Christ- mas break. Preparations actually began last summer when we both lost the use of one or more arms during endless rounds of shots and vaccinations, and yet we both still managed to get violently ill during parts of our voyage. But that is getting ahead of the story. After a couple of days on an insanely overcrowded, snail-paced Span- ish train, with a timely stopover in Cordoba, Spain, we crossed on the ferry between Algesiras and Tangier Christmas Eve. From the moment the huge ship began to dock, we were immersed in a rhythm of life so foreign to us that it is difficult to describe. "HI! HOW ya doing?" A Moroccan boy, no older than twelve, smiled sweetly and flashed us the "peace sign" (remember that?) from dockside as we sat on deck, waiting for the ferry to anchor. Dotsen and I ig- nored him, but he was quite persistent about being our "welcome" to Morocco. He followed us through customs and change, all the time chattering merrily in English as we tried to ignore him. Aw, we were tired! And the last thing we needed was some little kid barely old enough to be out alone tagging around after us. Every few minutes one of us would mutter "go away" or "get lost." Finally I was fed up, the brat was really annoying. I firmly placed both my hands on his shoulders and gave him a shove that sent him reeling. Before I knew what was happening the little bastard had flicked out a long, gleaming blade and was waving it menacingly in the air. He was about to go after me. No sooner had I realized this than another Arab, this one about sixteen, appeared from nowhere and had restrained the little geek in a full nelson. "You f g goddamn American pig," the little one started screaming at me. "I'll show you to push me. I will cut your goddamn balls off!" THE OLDER one loosened his grip, sternly scolded the boy in Arabic, and sent him away to disappear. Then he more or less cornered me and said with a look of violent hatred in his eyes, "Don't f .k around with anyone here. If you want to stay alive." From then on in, I pretty much kept my hands to myself. I was really shaken by the incident, it all happened so fast, but within seven hours Dotsen and I were on a train out of Tangier, never to return to that fabled city again . . . or at least not for a while. We must have met dozens of "little boys" during our two weeks in Morocco. There are "sociological reasons" for their existence: over half the population is under twenty and there is a desperate shortage of jobs, so it is natural to expect a certain number of hustlers running around, everywhere you go. BUT I HAVE a hard time swallowing the notion that the "laws of necessity" alone can dictate an abun- dance of children skilled in the ways of the street and able to speak six or seven languages! Children who can produce in the flash of a moment, a switchblade half a meter in length, soporific little green hash cook- ie, or an 18-karat gold ring to sell you. But there they were, all the time, working on Jap- anese tourists one minute and German vacationers the next. And hissing at each other in Arabic in between. I had already made a mental note to call an early truce with the untold numbers of them we would meet in upcoming days. Soon Dotsen and I actually learned to enjoy them and recognize them as individuals, each cretively different in his own slimy, crooked little way. LATER THE next day, after a blistering ride through the winter tropic sun on wooden-benched trains (which are required by law to stop for crossing caravans of camels), we arirved in Fes, a bustling town con- sidered to be the intellectual and spiritual capital of Morocco. But not the dope capital: for that we would have to wait until Marrakech. Fes was the 17th century capital of the notorious sovereign Moulay Ismail, a decadent and corrupt sul- tan who reigned at the same time as France's Louis XIV. The coincidence is hardly insignificant; Ismail was a smart cookie and he seized the moment, also seizing Tangier away from the English, Larache and Merhia from the Spanish, and thousands of black Afri- cans from their sub-saharan homelands into service as v on and whispered to me, "I think I'm going to pop his bloody little eyeballs out." "Probably not a good idea," I replied in a whisper. "He'll slice us both to ribbons." Then I had a flash. "Your mother's calling you," I chided him. The kid was definitely not fooled. "Aw, c'mon!" he pleaded. "I take you to a nice hotel, five dirhams, with a beautiful Moroccan girl you can take a bath with. Not for money, I assure you, I do this-for friend- ship. You my friend!" It sounded like a mightly appealing offer but I wasn't buying. "Okay friend," I improvised, "Now just listen. I've already got a hotel reservation so I don't need any help. So please, just go away." "YOU PAY too much there. I don't want you get ripped off. Come with me. It is better." I finally pulled out my reserve. "Aji, aji!" I said in Arabic. "Seer!" (C'mon, GO AWAY!) The kid looked at me with disappointment. Ile trailed off slowly, and when he was at a comfortable dis- tance he grinned, flipped me the bird and screamed, "Honky American!"i It was a hell of a lot safer that way. Play along with them and stay alive. I won't go into detail to describe the others, but they were numerous; an elegant "jeune homme" who spoke in proper French and was appropriately insulted when Dotsen stung him with the chilling riposte "j'en ai pas besoin, merci quand meme!" and left us to our busi- ness; and there were the two cast-offs from a CS & N album who were so glad to see us, but alas I said I was sorry, but it just wasn't cool ... IT WAS Christmas Day. We checked into the Olym- pic, clean, well furnished and cheap: about $2.50 a head, bath in the room (but no Moroccan girl) and breakfast included. We cleaned up and crashed out - and we slept for 18 solid hours. Up around noon the next day, we decided to see Fes. Still wary of the hustlers, we thought it might be safer to get an official "guide" from the government bureau of tourism. You know, someone we could trust. Three hours with the official guide shot that idea full of holes. At first it seemed extremely reasonable: a half-day personal guided tour of the "Medina" (old city) for 15 dirhams, about $3.50. Everything else was so cheap anyway, so why not ... But soon we found out that an "official guide" was no more than a hustler with enough skill and pull to land himself a, license from the State. First he sug- gested a taxi - only three dirhams. We said OK, but I could tel Dotsen was getting suspicious. I got sus- picious too when the guide led us to a shiny new Re- nault and said, "My car is the same as a taxi, so we' can take it instead, OK?" You're the one who's doing all the taking, but you ain't gonna take no more from me, I thought. the Mo rocco trail and is heavily sweetened. The tea is served in a glass held by the thumb and forefinger; and taken in loud, appreciative slurps. It is very soothing to the throat, and the proper accompaniment to smoking hash or keef - but more on that later. One shopping experience -is worth remembering. In one "souk" Dotsen fell in love with a large, beauti- ful camel's hair blanket. Being no dummy himself, he immediately pretended to have lost interest in it and tossed out the ridiculously low price of 50) dirhams. Eventually they worked him up to seventy, out there he stopped. The tactics the shop owner used were incredible; after about ten minutes of "How can you insult such fine merchandise" and "It took mountain weavers many months to make this," the "souk" owner brought out his "smoking pistol", a doddering seventy year-old man who he claimed was his broth- er, and who started wailing in a mixture of Spanish and Arabic about making the blanket. DOTSEN stayed at seventy. On the verge of cardiac arrest, the old man fell on the ground, clasped my knees and begged for a cigarette. Dotsen remained un- impressed and impasive. I gave the man a cigarette and shortly afterwards, the sale was made, for seven- ty dirhams. After three hours of this nonsense the guide drove us back into town. We made a rapid survey of the res- taurant situation and, by dint of a passionate wave of patriotism, decided to leave the Third World temporar- ily; we strode out to lunch at the Fes Holiday Inn. Looking back, I would have to say the movre was instinctive. After the severe culture shock we had suffered in the last 48 hours, it was our only realistic choice. The Holiday Inn was . .. more than we expected. We had hamburgers in the coffee shop. Huge brass doors, plush leather chairs, gargatuan Moroccan bel- lows hanging on the walls . . . tasteless American de- cadence at its best. Refueled and once again ripped off, we forged our way back into Morocco. BY NOW we knew we were here to stay for a while, and the culture shock was quickly tapering off. We spent a day in Fes on our own, talking with quite a few people and brushing off just as many. Then we moved on to neigh'boring Meknes. This city was more relaxed than Fes. We stayed at an even cheaper place and spent a lot of time just wandering around, stoping at the cafes for "the a la menthe", and being told for three days in a row that tomorrow was the "Festival of the Lamb" and that we'd better get to the "souks" today if we wanted to buy anything, since they would be closed tomorrow. We never did make it to the "souks", but we did find something about "la fete du mouton". Morocco is richly blessed with arable soil, and raises sevenfold more sheep than cattle. Once a year each religious Islamic family slaughters a sheep and feasts for four days. We were apparently permitted the leftovers when a cafe waiter suggested a "br6ohett de mouton" - huge quantities of barbequed limb on metal skewers - at an unbelievably low price. Delicious. MEKNES IS ONE of the few and fortunate cities in Morocco that has movie theatres. Dotsen and I took a night out to go see "Borseline and Co.", a French gangster film based in Marseilles, but at least as im- pressive as the flick itself was the Newsreel that preceded it. Out of twenty news items, nineteen were about "his majesty the king Hassan II". I had never been forced to take royalty so seriously before but there it was. The movie was monstrously gory. Nevertheless, I fell asleep halfway through, but Dotsen wouldn't 'top talk- ing about the terrifyingly brutal ending for a long time. We ate vegetarian for a few days. Then we packed up again and moved along to Casa- blanca. The romance Bogart and the Marx brothers have given to this port city is largely unjustified. Anyway, Dotsen and I agreed that we had money to blow, since tat is the only way to properly tackle a big city and we were only passing through, leaving the next day for Marrakech. WE PICKED out the "Bellerive", an oceanside hotel which obviously dates from the colonial days. Get- ting there was quite a hassle; the only way was by taxi, and the Casablanca hacks, while officially of- fering very cheap transport, only seem to show up at the train station when their meters are broken. Agreeing on the price was like being in the "souks" all over again. Finally the cabbie and I came to terms, but only after he delivered us the prime insult, calling us A.W.O.L. German soldiers. So Dotsen and I mumbled in French about our exper- iences in Stuttgart in the back seat, throwing in terms like "operation taxi-driver" and "target-practice" just for effect. If we had a New Year's Eve celebration, it was a couple days early at the "Bellerive" in Casa, because we passed New Year's in Marrakech completely flat- tered by local super-stuff - but more about that later on. THE "BELLERIVE" was filled with real, live French bourgeois tourists - certainly the most oblivious and obnoxious creatures known to man. We sipped out- rageously priced bloody mary's, a mutual passion, at the seaside bar in an ambiance of extreme dis- comfort. Dotsen had on a pair of white cutoffs, which was apparently "unacceptable" to the suppository- laden crowd. Later however, the same pair of shorts induced a tall handsome Moroccan to invite Dotsen to his apartment for "a couple of drinks" as we walked along the beach on the Boulevard de la Corniche. Acronym told him he was sorry but he was tired and he didn't really have time for that since we were leaving next morning anyway. But he told me later that he was very flattered by the proposition. At our hotel we were forced to take "demi-pension" which meant dinner and breakfast. We grudgingly ac- cepted it, but it turned out to be more than we bargained for. Trade cutoff: No winner LAST WEEK, the United States and the U.S.S.R. nullified their 1978 trade agreement, including the pro- vision that would have allowed an increase in Jewish emigration from Russia. Considering the more press- ing problems facing this country, it is not surprising that cancellation of the pact passed with very little notice. It seems that neither coun- try felt that it had that much to gain from it and the U.S.S.R. in par- ticular felt it had a lot to lose in the emigration provision. The real losers are the 130,000 Russian Jews who have applied for emigration to Israel and whose status now remains in doubt., The United States would have re- ceived a mere $722 million in pay- ment of the $11 billion Russian World War II debt. Since this is just a frac- tion of the total sum owed, the U. S. treasury will not miss it. The greatest advantage in trading with the Rus- sians would be the importation of en- ergy in the form of oil and natural gas. The lesson of the Arab oil em- bargo should have taught the U. S. that it can not afford to become dependent on foreign energy sources. Thus, the major product that the U.S.S.R. has to offer and that which the U. S. most needs can not be used in trade. The vast potential for ener- gy trade between the two great pow- ers disappears in a cloud of idealogi- cal smoke. THE U. S. S. R. WOULD sorely like machinery, especially computers, could be put to good use in helping the Russian economy. Since the trade of these goods would in most cases have to be reviewed by the Pen- tagon for their possible military ap- plication, it seems what the Russians -want most, they will not get. The possible threat to U. S. security would prevent trade on this front. The U.S.S.R. would also like to ob- tain American agricultural goods when shortages arise in their own farm .system. The "great grain rob- bery" should be a lesson that this type of big wheel dealing will hurt the American consumer. Though the U. S.'S. R. gained help with its grain shortage, the resulting shortage in the American system from the deal caused food prices in the U. S. to skyrocket. It seems rather stupid to sell grain to another country at the bargain basement price of $2.20 a bushel, when the price in one's own country is caused to rise to $5.00 a bushel. OF COURSE, talk about profit, loss, and trade seems petty in light of the much more important cause of human freedom. The real losers in the nullification of the trade agree- ment are the minorities in the U. S. S.R. who so desperately want to leave. The U. S. will get its energy from safer sources. The U.S.S.R. can get technical equipment and food from other Western powers who are dependent on foreign energy by ec.o- AS WE drove through the town, in our guide's per- sonal "taxi", he asked us every conceivable question that could be used to find out how much money we had. How did we arrive? Where were we staying? Which restaurant in town did we like best? How many brothers and sisters did we have? What were we planning to buy in Morocco? That tactic failed miserably; we gave him no straight answers and often answered his questions with another question. Finally in desperation he turned on a power- ful radio, with music so loud that it was impossible for Dotsen and me to communicate. Then he spit a few times out the window. This is going to be interesting, I thought. I was not mistaken. Even though we were wary, since a good hustler never gives up until the bitter end, we were offered a "genuine Morocco meal -at a special price (which was far too 'high)" a panoramic tour of the city in his "taxi", and he even had the gall to suggest that we should pay more than the agreed upon price. "JUST A MINUTE,' I howled at him, "we agreed upon fifteen dirhams for the tour and three dirhams for the ride each way. And that's it!" He laughed and put a hand on my shoulder. "Be calm," he said. "I was only kidding. A joke, you know?", Some joke. Anyway, as I should have suspected, the tour consisted of a couple of token stops at historical tourist spots and the rest of the time, being paraded in and out of "souks". The "souks" are the famed Arabian markets where you can buy everything from rugs to opium. We were taken only to the "best" places, where, as we found out later, the prices were highest and the salesmen the slickest. "In Morocco there are no fixed prices, so we always bargain. Comprenez?" said a smiling metal-craft sales-