THE MICHIGAN DAILY
TUESDAY. OCTOBER -15..14912
THE ICHIAN DILY TTFLAi V ~LGU~' 1 1k),lU
old, Wide Stripes
ivade Tie Fashions
n.._
By DAVID PAULS
udents seem to be going for
wide-striped ties this year. One
1 merchant observes that not
are the stripes getting wider
the colors are getting bolder
truer.
Cies should show the individ-
s imagination. Anybody can
r a solid color, but it takes an
ginative p e r s o n to wear
yes," is the philosophy of one
I clothier.
he Ann Arbor merchants are
st unanimous in their reports
he popularity of the silk tie.
;hty per cent of my tie busi-
ness is in silk repp (a ribbed
weave) stripes. The rest is in foul-
ards (printed patterns).
"Silk ties are more popular be-
cause they are easier to tie and
the colors are brighter and bet-
ter," commented an Ann Arbor
clothier.
One particular tie has gained an
unusual popularity, one store re-
ports. "The El Denver, a hand
woven, square bottom, wool tie,
sold so much that the president
of the company which makes them
came to Ann Arbor to see what
was going on," said the store own-
er.
Ties have generally stayed the
same width of two and a quarter
inches. The soft, muted tones along
with the solid color ties have re-
tained much of their popularity
because of their versatility. Bolder
shirt stripes now bring out tie
colors to a greater degree.
Free Flying
Although it is generally known
ties are absolutely necessary for
formal occasions, the advent of the
wide stripes presents a new prob-
lem for the college male.
One Ann Arbor merchant main-
tisthat a wide stripe is im-
proper after six. However, whether
the majority will decide to follow
this fashion decree remains to be
seen.
In the way of tie tacks, the old
long horizontal type is seldom seen
these days. If any clip is used, it
is a tiny neat tack and has taken
on more of an aspect of jewelry.
However, in line with the casual
trend in all realms of fashion, the
free-flying tie seems to be the up
and coming style.
Types Range
From Casual
To Formal
By NELSON LANDE
As every entering freshman
knows, there are two distinct
styles in men's clothes: the
conventional, conservative, I v y
League cut; and the not so con-
ventional Continental style.
When Joe "Ivy League Dresser"
College purchases a sport coat,
according to one local salesman,
he selects one with natural
shoulders, a herringbone pattern
and shaded in blues and browns.
(Solid blazers run a close second.)
Whereas Continental slacks are
stirctly cuffless, Ivy League trous-
ers come both with or without.
Neither is tapered. The four basic
colors are charcoal, navy, brown
and olive.
The Ivy League dresser, in
either a coat and tie, or sweater
and slacks, must wear black
socks. At all other times he wears
white. To do otherwise is to in-
fringe on Ivy Leaguism's ortho-
doxy.
The Continental dresser has
a choice of blazers or tweeds with
patched sleeves. His sport jacket
is invariably collarless, belted
(usually on the back), and gaudy.
Greys, greens, browns and camel's
hair are the most popular.
An Ann Arbor salesman spe-
cializing in Continentals sells
mostly khaki, cuffless, tapered
'jeans.
Fortunately, Joe College is not
smothered in a freshman fog of
styles. If he wants to conform, he
buys Ivy League.
The choice of clothes has al-
ready been made for him. If he
wants to stand out, he buys Con-
tinental.
By PAUL SAWYER
The complexity of the modern
world has reached the point where
one almost needs a college educa-
tion to buy a simple product and
feel certain afterwards that he has
made an intelligent choice.
As a case in point, take the pant
business. To sell pants nowadays
requires many years of experience,
and many stores now have a spe-
refer all questions on the subject.
Discussing the pant business with
one of these gentlemen is like talk-
ing with the head automotive en-
gineer at General Motors. One is'
immediately floored by a volley of
esoteric phrases like "plain front",'
"short rise", "hard finish", and a'
run of scientific terms like acrilan,
lycra, runton "crimping", fortrel,'
and others.
Research
Much of this complexityis due to
the developments on the research
scene.
Results of their work can be
found in the relative decline in im-
portance of cotton as a textile.
Cotton is found in pants more
and more in combination with a
synthetic fiber. Cotton absorbs soil,
a defect which has been overcome
by the man-made products. The
latter are also more wrinkle-free
and are able in many cases to
"shed" their wrinkles.
The problems of the laboratory
are negligible compared to the
dilemmas of the clothing manu-
facturers. As in all industries, try-
ing to second-guess the tastes of
the public is a complicated game
both of chance and skill.
In the pant industry, for in-
stance, tastes vary from state .to
state, and between college students
and non-college students there is
such a difference in taste that
many Ann Arbor stores do the bulk
of their business with only one
group.
Contrasting Tastes
Although the taste of the public
can often be maddeningly contra-
dictory, there is one rule which
generally holds true. This rule is:
too radical innovations in styles
must be avoided at all costs.
Four years ago, for example,
tapered trousers were first intro-
duced to the public. Although the
"trim cut" is the big word in
slacks today, the same style died
on the market when first intro-
dudced. At that time, it was too
radical. However, when tapering
was introduced gradually, like an
anti-biotic, sales rose.
As a result of these complicated
factors, the clothing manufactur-
ers have put out, a tremendous
variety of styles.
With this expanded variety in
style and colors, the average cus-
tomer today owns six pairs of
slacks, it was estimated, where-
as two pairs were considered suffi-
cient several years ago.
Out of this complex interplay of
availability and taste, what styles
have survived to become current
trends? The slim, tapered slack
is the dominant style now. Appar-
ently the clothing industry has
taken over the "Forward Look"
from the automotive industry with
great success.
Recently pant designers came
out with the incredibly original in-
novation of applying belt loops to
tapered slacks. It is remarkable
how well the public has adjusted
to such a revolutionary concept.
As a matter of fact, belt loops have
been staging a general comeback
due to the emergence of wide belts
with large buckles.
The width of the cuff has less-
ened, having shrunk to one inch
from a previous high of an inch
and three-quarters. It seems hard
to believe that an intelligent col-
lege student would take out a ruler
and measure the cuffs on a new
pair of slacks before buying them.
Colors
Colors are staying generally
dark due to the popularity of light-
er sports jackets which are being
bought to contrast with the slacks.
Blue-green was also introduced
this year, another event which will
mark 1963 as a cardinal date in the
history of American pant sales.
Undoubtedly the most singular
innovation of the year, however,
are white jeans. The age of white
jeans is about a year old now and is
at a peak. The recent invention of
white jean corduroys has not only
brought the corduroy back into
style but has also made the jean
business a twelve-month enter-
prise.
Suede Coats for Fall
New Slacks Vary in Style
I
"WHOSE WOODS these are, I do not know," said the poet
frostily, and snapped the twig of human kindness between his
fingers. The poet in this picture sports a snappy coat in suede as
he rests along the road least taken.
ANN ARBOR FAD:
Black Umbrella-
New Classic
0- 1
By STEVE ZARIT
If you wish to stay dry during
Ann Arbor's inclement weather,
the local merchants offer a fash-
ionable solution to your dilemma,
the umbrella.
Once a symbol of power and au-
thority in ancient Egypt and
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renaissance Italy, the umbrella is
rapidly becoming the symbol of a
well-dressed student en campus,
as well as possessing its obvious
practical value.
The style in men's umbrellas is
simple: black and slender. Varia-
tion is found only in the type of
handles. Th. traditional wooden
handles, hand-carved in Italy,
range from the plain to the very
exquisite ornamented with metal.
Wooden Handles
The wooden handle gives the
umbrella a cane-like appearance
an dimparts to its possessor the
distinction associated with a cane.
Indeed, it is not difficult to per-
ceive the change from the student
without umbrella to the statesman
wielding his distinctive umbrella
in a man-of-the world fashion.
Competing with the wooden
handle for popularity is the new
black leather handled umbrella
and accompanying case. It is slim
and sharp and has a, very dis-
tinguished look.
The wonders of modern tech-
nology have brought an optional
push button feature which auto-
matically opens the umbrella. This
device has been met with an en-
thusiastic response by umbrella
connoisseurs.
While a wide variation in men's
umbrellas is available, prices are
moderate. Nearly all models fall
within a price range of $4 to $8
with $5 as average.
In women's umbrellas the most
popular model is a slim, black
umbrella which resembles a man't.
However, many women prefer
more colorful umbrellas. Many
colors and attractive prints can
be found to match any raincoat.
In handles, also, there is a large
variety. Imported from Italy, the
handles can be tortoise shell,
metal, wood, or leather. The crook
handle, which can be slipped
over the arm when the umbrella
is not in use, is more popular than
a straight handle.
The automatic push button
model is not too popular in wom-
en's umbrellas, but other practical
innovations have been made.
Dual Purpose
The travel umbrella can be fold-
ed over to fit into a purse. The
handle of the suitcase umbrella
will unscrew and is therefore less
cumbersome in packing.
As for women's umbrellas, the
price range is, from $4. to $8.
A completely new .mbrella ap-
pearing on the Diag daring after-
noon showers is one made of
transparent plastic.
Owners of these umbrellas men-
tion two distinct advantages to
the transparent material. One is
that it makes it possible to see
what is ahead when walking,
thereby avoiding many embarass-
ir- collisions. Girls also state that
they enjoy watching the raindrops.
No Guesswork . .
Our authentic, traditional clothing
is complimented by distinguished and'
exclusive furnishings . . . both carefully
selected for our discerning customer..A
visit to Camelet Brothers will quickly
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ENJOYING THE BRISK OUTDOORS in October by some swing-
ing exercise, our model is comfortable and smart-looking in new
slacks and a bright patterned jacket.
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show you that there has been
no guesswork
I
CHECKMATE FOR SPORTCOATS 'N' SLACS!
in our selection.
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Choose Your
1119 SOUTH UNIVERSITY
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SPORT COAT from
CHECKMATE'S
Choice Collection
SINCE 1848.
11
JXBYRUDOFKER
After SX#FE
By all odds, the campus favorite across
the nation. The brand new PLAYBOY
made of dacron® and comiso rayon.
Natural shoulders, shawl collar,
Hand Woven
Harris-Tweeds
Imported
Loomed
11
flap pockets, center vent,
trousers.
plain
English Shetlands
Heirloom-Spun
Herringbones
bfrom 35.00
See Checkmate's huge
selection of
color-coordinated slacks,
A
Specially priced as a complete outfit-
coat, trousers, vest, shirt, tie, studs, links.
$65°°
Coat and trousers $55.00
Continental
and Ivy
Styles
from $695