THE MICH~IGA A~vUX l t Tl1 4 .. wwl4 w i.,. . a a .uav'. z,.yrr a. *USUNDA1 Y, OCTOBER 14, 1962 t Longer Skirts Replace Knee-Ticklers I By JEAN TENANDER Casual skirts have reverted back to classic standbys this fall. The "knee-ticklers" have had their day, and once again girls will be making a modest effort to keep the length of their skirts at a seemly distance from the ground. While last year's styles called for muted plaids and conservative tweed, this year has brought a rash of startlingly bright colors and bold innovations in design. There are skirts of mohair, po- tatorsacking and imitation suede. Knee Socks Since fashion has decreed that skirts will be longer, it is only logical that the stocking manu- facturers have finally come out with the new "longer than long" knee sock. These practical, "warm- er than warm" leggings are manu- factured in a variety of styles and colors and in many cases come in ShoesAcquire New Finesse Luxurious leathers, forged from calfskin and natural pigskin, add 'handsome sophistication to foot- wear for every occasion. Stacked heels are stylish and will allow women to travel, teach or attend teas in comfortable glamour. A classic pump acquires a look of alligator beauty when it is made from black printed calf and complimented by a gently rounded toe and an attractive stacked heel.: A handsome shoe of crocodile- printed calfskin, accented with suede and a stitched square toe, is an outstanding town or country shoe. Natural pigskin is tr'ansformed into elegant ostrich and is effec- tive with a small stacked heel and a high-rising, tabbed throat and a crescent toe. a form reflecting the predominant color trend in the skirts. Although bright shades and un- usual materials are the first thingj to catch the shopper's eye, a major part of the department store clothes rack is still taken up by the type of casual skirt young women have favored for years. Tweeds and plaids will always be a favorite, and a difference in shade is hardly worthy of note. Plaids do seem to be getting brighter this fall, as do accessories such as shawls, belts, pocketbooks, hats, and gloves. Raccoon Skirts There have been attempts on the part of a few brave manufac- turers to sell skirts made out of raccoon. These are for very casual wear and probaby would find their most useful service in after-ski situations when the skier is trying to look both athletic and feminine. They are extremeley warm and can be recommended only for the most northern of ski resorts. Culottes are not dead yet and have hit the fashion world in variations of last year's theme. They come in cotton, the ever present madras, corduory and wool. Both short and long culottes are in evidence since they do not seem to have sufferedbfrom the effort to bring skirts back to a more conventional length. Little Change All in all skirts have changed very little. There seems to be a trend in the direction of conserva- tism in length, but this is com- pensated for by the array of colors offered to shoppers. Those in search of traditionalt sports wear will always be able toE find it, but they may wish to tem- per the sobriety of their wardrobe with one or two of the brighterY items now available. Although the trend this fall hast been toward longer skirts, womene will still wear skirts slightly abovee or at the knee. Skirts with a large1 pleat in front or solid wool wrap- arounds will be of shorter lengths. WHERE NEXT?-She's in a bold, black plaid skirt with a torso jacket. He's wearing an olive mixture, shetland wool sport coat, with charcoal olive slacks and a silk foullard ascot. INNOVATIONS: Knits Show. Bulky Yarn Cable Stitch By RUTH HETMANSKI Dinner lines, house meetings and after-dinner conclaves are common places to see University women knitting. Some college girls say it re- laxes them, while others say they feel less guilty about putting off homework if they are doing some- ting useful. The habit became so entrenched that one professor in the school of education found it necessary to forbid knitting in his lecture. By knitting, a girl can save money on otherwise expensive hand-knit sweaters and get just what she wants in size, color, and style. She can also enjoy the pleasure that comes with invention of new styles 'and patterns. Knit for Boys "If you knit for your boyfriend, you will break up with him be- fore you finish the sweater," an old legend claims. Yet needles click often to the tune of, "do you think it'll fit him?" or "won't he be surprised?" Knitting, for all its flavor of old-fashioned hominess, follows modern trends in fashion just as carefully as ready-made clothes. One new feature is Scandia wool yarn that has an irregular con- sistency and produces a sweater with a marbled look. The trend toward bulky knits and cables of all kinds continues to appear with some sweaters so complicated that it seems their execution must be reserved for math majors. An innovation to add bulk and body to mohair sweaters in knit- ting with a strand of regular worsted wool with the mohair. Ski patterns become more popular every season, and wooden buttons add a rustic appearance to the cardigan styles. Experts believe that beginners will do well to use large needles and a simple pattern to start with., An excellent pattern for a first sweater is a boat neck pullover. Speed, as well as appearance, is a factor in knitting. Recently im- ported from grandmothers to col- lege campuses is the European method. The knitter uses the left hand for holding the yarn instead of the right as in the convention- al methods. This method does not allow the yarn to drop between stitches. The end result of the knitter's1 hard work is a sense of satisfac-; tion and beautiful products to dis-o play her handiwork. Ski sweaters, which are popular as imported knits, are the favorite project of4 more efficient knitters.4 PASSES AT CLASSES-Many Ann Arbor styles can be described as protective-from the weather. The femme fatale of this duo is wearing a reversible rain poncho with the black poplin side show- ing. The other side is a bold yellow and red plaid. Her escort is wearing a camel-colored, wool. lined duffle coat with buffalo horn buttons. Coats Furnish Protection Portuguese I nfluence MILADY'S BEAUTY: Offer Myriad of Beauty 'Tricks' Shapes Fall Jackets, 1) The stress on in fall fashions turns to the "young look," adapt- ed in a special way to the tastes of American women. The young look has invaded the hearts of women and will influ- ence all phases of clothing selec- tion. Straight, long roundup jack- ets, shaped like a Portuguese fish- erman's yoked chemise, will high- light many casual evenings. Handbags styled like a school girl satchel (or teaching fellow's brief- case) will also appear on casual dates. A "Jules' and Jim" velvet hat, seen in a recent French movie, with shoes having interchangeable decorative. cuffs, will add variety to outfits. Gold Bracelets Heavy gold bracelets with dan- gling stone ovals and large pins _.. All SWEATER 'PAKS and YARNS Nationally Advertised in Leading Magazines Beautiful New Color Combinations in all Weights of Yarns YJarn cralt~op 1 4 f (lr i C I NO 2-0303 11 Nickels Arcade Use Sweater In NewWay Sweaters have been forced into double duty this year in perform- ing as "sweater dresses" as well as their standard use with skirts. The "sweater dress" is still a two piece outfit and it is only the material, color, design and shape which makes women appear to have on a one piece dress. A sweater shift combines a fine knit with the new shift look of cotton and wool one piece dresses. Big, bulky cardigan and V-neck sweaters may be combined with a matched skirt knitted on finer needles to make a more casual dress. These "sweater dresses" may be decorated with long gold chains with a medallion or jewel. These "sweater dresses" may be converted to two pieces, by com- bining the sweaters with more casual full skirts or kilts. will provide a decorative touch on suits or "basic black" dresses. Coats and suits will have cozy wide collars which can be bundled up around the neck. Suit skirts will come with front pleats which are hidden underneath long, straight jackets or shorter flared ones. For more daring women, long tapered capes with "highwayman" collars may provide excitement to a fall outfit. Hooded dresses and sweaters will also add a sophisti- cated air to the dress of American women. 'Town and Country' The "town and country look" will feature ponchos, hooded leath- er coats and suede riding length jackets for protection against cold autumn weather. Boots of all kinds made of var- ied leathers will bring an outdoor flavor to the campus. These boots are unlined and often decorated with tassels, a rim of fur or a contrasting color such as red or brilliant orange. Sweaters with lower than ever U necklines will replace the stand- ard V neck. These U neck sweat-, ers may be worn with a thinner svgeater of a contrasting color or a short dickey with a turtleneck collar underneath. 'Western Look' The "western look" features cow- boy-tailored shirts, pants and skirts. Skirts are made of denim< and are worn with a simple blue work shirt or gingham plaid blouse. The outfit may be topped off with a bright red "kerchief" or ascot. All sorts of jeweled accessories1 can be bought to go along withX the "western look." There are five point sheriff's stars in differentt enamel colors. Miniature cowboyx boots also fit this look; they havek small, stackedheels. Some woment even buy spurs. 'By LOUISE LIND "Yes, we are using make-up this season," beauty magazine editors report, for the price of their pub- lications offer "milady" a myriad of tricks to make its application facile. Beginning with "that fabulous facial" and ending with the se- crets of "the art of lip flattery," one journal describes how any knowing young woman can wisely' use her "make-up minutes" to be- come "that glamorous image that is the real you." "Approach your facial with con- fidence and a minimum of clut- ter," it advises. "You will need little more than a good basic cleansing cream, a skin freshener, a box of tissues, a bright light, a mirror and thirty minutes of com- plete privacy. Glamour Facial "Add to this your two hands gliding confidently up, out and around the planes of your face, and you will be _giving yourself a glamour facial.. . the one treat- ment every young model depends on to keep herself in a state of captivating loveliness.". Cosmetologists advise the en- hancement of "milady's" eyes with tweezers, eyebrow pencil, eye shad- ow, eye liner, "nice fresh eyebrow brush," eyelash curler and mas- cara to give her that "natural beauty she deserves." The typical magazine shows a model plying her eyebrow pencil "deliberately and carefully, with true French feeling . . . to accen- tuate every detail of her eyes." The final result in the publication's own words, "Tres magnifique." Lipstick Shades The magazines also recommend light lipstick for daytime and a 4. To Adopt Varied Leathers For I Season s darker shade at night when an artificial lighting softens color. It explains that lipstick is both dec- orative and serviceable since it acts as a guard against drying and chapping. The model has finally completed her make-up job and is prepared to leave her home to face the world. For those who have mili- tantly obeyed its one-two-three guide for make-up magic, the mag- azine recommends an invigorating natural flower scent, "enough .,. . to be noticeable," for a pick-me-up after that gruelling hour before the mirror and suggests "music to make-up by" for next time. NEW BLOUSES: Western Look Prevails Boot Fashions Oxford cloth,-pin stripes and the western look are the new trends in the blouse world this fall, while frilly-shirts and stand- away collars have since been for- gotten. Dacron and cotton materials are still big sellers, especially among college women who detest the chore of ironing. The pin stripe is a large item for women who prefer a pattern on their blouses. Prints, including the madras and paisleys are also being shown although they are not quite as new as stripes. The western look is perhaps the most novel innovation added to this year's wardrobe. It includes all styles with fringe trim or at- tached cowboy ties. Popular colors in blouses are the same as those for other ap- parel. Heading the list are shades of loden green, emerald and off- white. Round collars have the lead this year with the man-tailored but- ton-down, running a close second. Roll-up sleeves are still purchased because they can be used all year, but long sleeves are still definitely in use for winter wear. Stress Brown Rich colors highlight this year's fall and winter fashions. Stylish tones include brown in- stead of black, brown with black, brown with navy, golden beiges and pale off-whites, reds and shimmering golds. For Every Fall and Holiday Party THE BROCADE BEAUTIFUL Boots are the newest rage this year for women, only they are not of the usual heavy lined snow boot variety. Zebra-stenciled pony skin rid- ing boots with a stacked wooden heel combine a new daring use of leather and the comfortable so- phistication - of heels. Ankle-skiming boots made of tri-colored suede feature a long pointed toe and lower heel. Red, buff and black leather compose the contrasting tri-color. Show Shades The "spat and polish boot" uses a shiny patent leatherskimmer and wool spats in a -bright red plaid. The slicker boot, looking tall, red and handsome in patent lea- ther gives "up-to-the-knee" pro- tection from rain and snow. The "cowboy look" has swept into boots, and boots with a round- ed suede rim and patent leather toes provide an interesting blend of leathers to footwear. For those who prefer the warm- er comfort of lined fleece boots, they come in a variety of styles and colors. Suedes, pig skin and patent leather in blacks, browns and brilliant solids are combined with white fleece lining to do all weather duty. Wigs Sweep Fashion Scene, Require Elaborate Attention r FLANNEL SHIRT The season's emphasis on shades of brown instead of black can be accented effectively with either brown, black or chamois accessor- ies. NEW YORK (P)-There are more wigs than people in beauty salons these days. With people paying more and more money for more elaborate wigs, it is' a good idea to Eknow how to take care of them. I. A curvaceous cover 52% Cotton-48 % up sheath in a blend of Acetate. Subtly empha- I I .-- ,/ (I' t 1' IL ' # y,, j r0 . . - - x in : . Y: },. . : ''''' w.' . ' ;::r3 i:!: +if .. 'i7: k: :fix. ;rk .'iyytr..; '..' tw+ $... bYDer fbyl fl D rC C . /.. A 7, ;i One beauty salon operator ad- vises that "wigs should be kept clean for best effect. They may be cleaned at home with a good dry cleaning liquid." Wigs can be kept nicely if you avoid wrapping them in some- thing that -disarranges the hair. When traveling they should be carried carefully. "A wig should be kept in its own box, not packed with many other things. I like to wrap their in transparent saran which pro- tects them from dust and damp- ness and doesn't crush the hair set," the operator added. The volume of recent wig Eales caught everyone by surprise, she continued. "People used to wear wigs and not talk about it, but it took young women to make them into conversation pieces. Many career women have two or three wigs, even in different colors." Generally speaking, women stick to their own hair color for practi- cal purposes if they own just one wig. Women 'Rob' Men's Hats NEW YORK (P)-Watch your hat, man; chances are a fash- ionable female covets it. Whether it's a derby, fedora, spac'e helmet or a cap, it's as high fashion on her coiffure as it is sartorial on your crew cut these days. She has had her cap set for man-style hats since spring when French and American couturiers found them to be just the right sauce for suits. A hard crowned hat or one with 11 12 99 11 sized at the waist with self piping. Blue and Candlenight. 5-15. $17.98. Fushion walks on NETVAL TO HEELS! I Be sure to see our beautiful Collection.. $14.98 up. Party Dress EASY, BREEZY SHIFT WITH MANDARIN NECK AND SELF-BELT BLACK, NAVY, CAMEL, GREY, BROWN, AND OLIVE IN SIZES 8 to 16 Jewel Box smouldering Ruby, Onyx and Copper Brownst Handsome, burnished smooth or antiqued leathers on gracefully shaped short-stack or covered heels ... take to detailed straps and elasti-fit contrastina collars. Newly smart for _ _._.. i 11 I ! : , i