THE MICHIGAN DAILY

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THE MICHIGAN DAILY PAGE THREE



Ski Clothes Rarely See Slopes

By NEIL COSSMAN
The ski clothing market has
practically doubled every year for
the pagt three years, according to
one local merchant.
While this trend cannot last
indefinitely, it will probably not
lose momentum for the next year
or two, he added.
Many ski sweaters and jackets
never see a ski slope. They are
worn mostly for appearance - a
rugged, adventurous and athletic
look.
Functional Purpose
On skiers, such clothes do have
a functional purpose. They keep
out the sharp winds and snow.
Most of the new designs are im-
ported from such countries as
Switzerland or Austria.
Less expensive copies of the top-
quality foreign clothes are often
copied in America the following
year.
All imported sweaters are wool,
but sweaters made of synthetic
fibers are available from American
manufacturers.
Unlined ski jackets, which were
introduced last year to be worn
over a sweater, are expected to
sell much faster this winter.
Reversible Jacket
Regular ski jackets are available
in a reversible style. Domestic
jackets retail for about $20, while
the imports run as high as $50..
Reversible imported sweaters
are also in stores this year. Al-
though imported sweaters cost
about twice as much as American
brands, there is a great difference
in the quality of materials and
manufacture.
Ski stretch pants have appeared
in local stores this fall. Like the
Model-T, they are available in
"any color as long as it is black,"
although a red 'or blue pair man-
ages to slip on to the shelves now
and' then.
The color of these skin tight
ski pants is really not a crucial
matter, since they are worn under
other clothes-usually long under-
wear and another pair of trousers
Ski clothes are particularly
popular for non-slope wear be-
cause the stretch pants and the
smooth finish of the materials
give a sleek appearance.
Zip-Out Liner
Gets Attention
Clothing manufacturers have
finally turned their inventive
minds to 'the field of overcoat
linings.
While coats themselves have
been reversible for years, the lin-
ings -can now be purchased with
reversible zip-out linings.
Besides standard solid colors,
liners can be found in many new
print and stripe patterns.
Some are laminated. Others
come in pile fabrics of short
curled and fleecy textures.

HIDE AND SKI-Just the atmosphere for her brilliant red tartan
coat with cropped sleeves to offset matching sweater and slacks.
He is in a black nylon ski parka with stretch wool ski slacks and
fleece-lined leather boots.
'B', COLOR-YOUR-OWN:
U pswing in Sweatshirt
Greater Variety for Stir

By PETE DiLORENZI
Today's college student has the
opportunity to choose from the
most varied selection of sweat-
shirts in history, thanks to a re-
cent upswing in imagination
throughout the entire sweatshirt
industry.
Before last spring, students had
to content themselves with stand-
ard "Michigan" sweatshirts or
with plain ones. At that point,
however, the market underwent a
veritable flood of cotton knit in-
novations ranging from the tal-
ented three "B" sweatshirts -
Beethoven, Bach and Brahms-to
"sweatshirt" sweatshirts.
Boom in Sales
A local Ann Arbor storeowner
gives the following descriptionof
the boom last spring: "We had
been selling about the same type
of sweatshirt with the same var-
iations of style and color for years.
Then, Arthur Fiedler, conductor
of the Boston Pops Orchestra, ap-
peared in a national magazine
wearing Beethoven, Brahms, and
Bach sweatshirts.
Biggest Sellers
"For the rest of the spring,
these sweatshirts were by far our
biggest "sellers. The 'sweatshirt'
sweatshirts also went over very big
last spring but they seem to have
dropped off in sales this fall."
He predicts the eventual down-
fall of the Beethoven-Brahms-
Bach sweatshirts because of their
prohibitive cost.
"When they first came out last
spring, they were our biggest sell-
ers, but now they aren't selling
very well, because they cost from-
$1.00 to $1.50 more than the stand-
ard styles," he commented.
New Rage
The new rage in sweatshirts this
fall is the "color-your-own" style.
These are plain white with a black

outline of a wolverine head crown
ed with an oversized sailor's cap
All that the purchaser has to d
after buying the shirt is journe
over to the nearest drug store
buy three or four different-colorer
tubes of indelible liquid felt col
oring, and begin coloring in th
outline to his heart's content.
The secong big seller this fal
is the short-sleeved sweatshirt
There are six varieties of this typ
-three pullover, and three zipper
One storeowner maintains tha
the standard sweatshirts are sti
popular.
"The standard sweatshirts -
navy blue with yellow letters fo
Merchants Not
Of Ivy Jackets
Ann Arbor merchants repor
that ivy jackets with three but
tons, narrow lapels and nature
shoulders are being stocked an
sold to the exclusion of virtuall
all other styles this fall.
'Hobo Hats' Vary
With Personalities
"Hobo hats" are one manufac
turer's inspiration in the perennia
struggle against the cpllege man
aversion to head gear.
The hats are made of felt an
can be molded into any shape th
wearer desires-army cap, nav
cap, fireman's hat or Robin Hoo
hat; the range of styles is limite
only by the wearer's imaginatio
and inhibitions.
Only a conventional business o
dress-style hat is beyond the man
variations of the "Hobo hat."

Tab Collars TEN YEARS' EVOLUTI
Gain Men's Sty
By KENNETH WINTER
ver y Mens clothing styles never
change, you say?
That's not quite right.
By ANDREW ORLIN Though men may not exhibit
Button-downs are s t il pre- the chemises, sack dresses and
dominant although many store other radical variations which
managers see tab-collars gaining mark fashions for the fairer sex,
in popularity, masculine apparel does indeed
The tapered shirt which made change.
its fashion debut two years ago is
still extremely popular. One store
manager reports that 75 per cent Philosophers
of the shirts in his stock are
tapered.
The correct shirt for after darkV r
wear is still white. One manager V ew
noted that "certain liberties are
now being taken so that the wear-
ing of light blue or light yellow
shirts is permissible on informal
occasions."
White Shirt Decline By RICHARD KRAUT
These liberties partly explain Throughout the ages the world',
the decline in the sale of white odistinguished philosopherd
shirts. and most accomplished writer
Stripes, particularly red ones, have been engaged in a furios
are very much in evidence. The
sales of solids and stripes are so controversy concerning the natur
close together that it is hard to of heavy winter jackets anc
say which is in the lead. Stripes stylish men's hats.
run the gambit from extremely It all started when Critocritas,
thin mini-stripes to ones which one of the Ionean philosophers,
are an eighth of an inch thick, stated that the world rested or
Button-downs Lead a light grey loden coat. This wa
The button-down shirt both in completely heretical to the tra.
solids and stripes is still the cam- ditional Greek view.
pus leader. Many managers stated Critocritas had much evidence t
that they sold slightly more but- support his theory. When winte
ton-downs than tabs. One man- came, the world seemed to be en-
ager noted, however, that as many veloped in one huge gray mass bu1
as 90 per cent of his sales were eventually the skies cleared to be
in button-downs. come a beautiful, solid blue.
"The world is not full of souls,'
Critocritas said, in an extant frag
ment, "but is full of loden coats
In winter, the warm gray exterio:
F ield M eats isall about us, trying to keep u
Field Means arm; but in the summer,
rich blue lining is most attractiv
/ and pleasant."
c ent ,uyers Although Critocritas was nota
very influential philosopher, h
was most popular among the mer
- boys, and navy blue or pale blue' chants of Athens.
. with white letters for girls -- are The controversy over loden coat
o still our best sellers. was temporarily discontinued s
'y Other Colors that men of good will could de
, Ovote their time to hammering ou
d en grOutsideis our navybiggestseller"od- the essentials of stylish men'.
- The same manager added some hats.
e advice to sweatshirt buyers about Late in the winter of 1775 Ne
washing to prevent shrinkage. "If England merchants became an
Liti wash edg in ukewatsrmkaer, Inoyed with children's continua
L. it is washed p lukewarm water, repetition of the beggar's rhyme
e be negligl e ifwhe sinkage iht"Christmas is coming, the gees
r. water, with a harsh detergent and are getting fat,
Please to put a penny in th
t thrown into a dryer it can go from old man's hat.'
11 large to medium, medium to small This verse, they said, was lead
or small to microscopic. Sweat- ing towards the downfall of th
- shirts should be dried by laying hat industry-the economic back
ir them out flat on an open towel. bone of a growing colonial societ
The difficulty was solved by th
War of Independence, which free.
S hree Styles the colonists from the old Englisl
verse. It is quite noteworthy tha
S Still Popular the ballad which runs, "Yanke
Doodle came to town upon a litt
pony,
t This year's jackets show subtle He stuck a feather in his ha
- variations, setting them apart and called it macaroni," was sub
al from previous ivy league looks. stituted 'for the hated Englis
d rhyme. This did double servic
The emphasis is on herringbone to the hat industry and to a grow
tweeds, although Harris tweeds ing American macaroni industry
- are still selling well. The latter, as which operated from Italy to th
one merchant notes, "is always West Indies and then on to th
good on the Michigan campus." United States.
The camel-hair shade, a solid- And so, when the modern con
colored beige tweed, is gaining sumer is contemplating buying;
popularity in Ann Arbor. Certain heavy winter coat, or a stylish ha
- color combinations, such as blue he is not merely thinking privat
al with olive and blue-brown blends, thoughts. His very ideas on th
's are being woven into this year's subject form an essential part t
tweeds. that great moving mass of co
.d The grey-pinstripe-suit is giv- troversy which is the "Dialogue o
e ing way to generally lighter colors Loden."
'y -blue, brown and green, while
id staying within the conservative ivy
d style.
n New trends in the cut of ivy
jackets are in evidence. They are IT'S
r marked by wider lapels, shorter r

y jackets and the return of patch
pockets.TE
LEL
AN??
c traditional
t't's
at realistic,.:i's
us attention
needs of the
were found-
or yourself.


The year-to-year changes may
go virtually unnoticed, but loking
at men's clothes of, say, ten years
ago brings out some startling dif-
ferences.
New Directions
Ten years ago it appeared that
American men were moving away
from the traditional European
styles, and their clothing was
evolving in a whole new direction.
"We were at a point where we
sold absolutely no traditional
clothing," one Ann Arbor mer-
chant recalls.
Men's clothes of the early 50's
tended to be gaudier than today's.
Coat collars, for example, were
large, as were hat brinis and shirt
collars.
Colors and patterns also leaned
to the bright side. Men's suits
sported light, solid shades. Sports'
shirts were even wilder, with the
whole spectrum of color displayed
in large, uninhibited geometric
patterns and bold prints.
Double Pleats
Trousers were marked by double
pleats and wide cuffs, and gener-
ally featured light, solid colors.
Men's accessories, while some-
what less numerous than today,
tended to be larger and more
prominent - especially in cuff
links and ties, whose designers

ON:


Tie .patterns
Alter .little
By THOMAS DRAPER
Fortunately for men the style
of ties changes very slowly.
During the past few years ties
have been getting narrower and
narrower. Despite moans of haber-
dashers, isolated pockets of resist-
ance have demanded ties as thin
as one-half inch. Now through
the moderating influence of good
sense and advertising, the tie
may be in for widening. The cur-
rent width is between 2 and 2.5
inches.
The patterns are legion. Glaring
solid reds, dark conservative prints
and hand painted ties with pic-
tures hidden underneath are be-
ing offered for sale. Stripes cur-
rently are making a come-back.
Conservative prints are still the
predominate pattern, but these
also are starting to have bits of
color.
There are more ways to tell a
good tie than the price tag. The
first indication of a good tie is
a wool liner inside the tie. This
liner gives a light fabric weight
and maintains the original form
after tying.
Fabric and workmanship are
two more indications. Silk is the
best fabric, but wool or a combin-
ation of silk and another fabric
also makes a good tie.
The final appearance of the tie
is determined byy its workmanship.
Basically there are three different
types of pattern finishes, the
print, the Jackhard and the
woven. The Jackhard has the pat-
tern woven into the fabric. The
weave tie gets its pattern during
the manufacturing of the fabric
itself.
Most men have few problems
when it comes to wearing the navy,
grey or black shades. The tones
of blue, grey, brown, tan and
olive, ihowever, require careful se-
lection. The best way to judge
tones is in daylight.

les Show Conservatism

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AT NO EXTRA COST
In Any Color

turned them out in all shapes,
sizes and colors.
The whole effect of the mid-
century styles was one of boldness
and honesty, but somewhat lack-
ing in subtlety. Since then, the
ivy league revolution has tamed
the American man's outfit, while
adding sophisticated touches for-
merly absent.
Halls of Ivy
With its roots in England and
the roaring twenties, ivy league
has brought conservative dress
back to American men. Patterns
have become 'muted and smaller,
colors darker, and the cuts of suits
are slimmer and more natural.
Trousers now taper, shoulders are
virtually unpadded.
Numerous new accessories -
such as button-down collars and
buckles in the back of pants -
have been added (and occasionally
subtracted) and have become the
trademarks of the new style. All
the ivy accessories, however, are
kept conservative and unobtrusive.
Along with this return of tra-
dition has come something new:
the "miracle fabrics." The best
example is the wash 'n' wear idea,
which adds economy and durabil-
ity to the new fashions.

Felt, Velour
Remain Bi
In Hat Syes
Those who spent their hard-
earned money on a new hat last
year will be interested and pleased
to know that they may wear the
same one this season without be-
ing out of style.
The felt hat will again be popu-
lar this year. The trend is towards
narrow brims with colors includ-
ing black and olive.
Velour hats are also very much
in demand. There are several dif-
ferent styles, ranging from a plain
to pinched front, and most hav-
ing tyrolean plumes and hatbands.
Extra feathers are available for
greater variety.
Among other more unorthodox
campus headgear is the Russian or
Cossack fur hat which should
prove popular. Berets of either
black or blue hue will also appear
on campus.
The new fad in hats this year is
the "hobo hat." This is a pliable
hat which comes without any
particular style, so that the pur-
chaser can mold, twist, or change
the hat to suit his choice of style.

i

For a limited time
only, and at no
extra cost, we will
tint these lovely satin
pumps to match any
color you desire.


$igh unbreakable
spiked heel.

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SLIM FIIS
IN MIDWALE
CORDUROY
RUGGED SANFORIZED
FABRIC IN
BLACK-LODEN-
LIGHT BLUE-
WHITE
S'129

R&R LAB
WHAT DOES IT ME
It is your assurance of authentic
apparel of outstanding quality
sensible prices ... with meticulo
to detail and an awareness of the
natural shoulder advocate. We-
ed on these principles.
We invite you to stop in and see f

smart to be handsewn.

\ YOU'RE JUST NOT WITH IT -WITHOUT 'EM!

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