'.THE MICHIGAN DAILY SUND)
AY, OCTOBER 14, 1962
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Show Ivy, Continental for Fall
MIDNIGHT INTRIGUES:
Coats Lift Students from Drab World
By JEFFREY K. CHASE
A careful observer of campus
fashions will notice two-schools of
thought concerning men's appar-
el, the conservative Ivy League and
the daring continental.
The two modes of dress appeal
to two varieties of personality. Stu-
dents who prefer the well-estab-
lished dress adopt the Ivy League,
while the avant-garde wear clothes
of the continental cut.
Both are appropriate and styl-
ish, emphasizing blues, olives and
browns for fall and winter.
At the same time, the Ivy styles
still predominate around Ann Ar-
bor. Some men's stores have yet
to stock continental clothes be-
cause most Michigan men, in con-
trast with students at Eastern
schools, hesitate to wear them.
Casual Ivy Leaguer
For casual wear the Ivy Leaguer
will have sport shirts with button-
down collars in pin stripes, pin
stripe checks or plaids in subdued
shades of green, brown, blue, black
and grey.
He will wear tapered pants of
dark, classic colors. Sweaters, espe-
cially lambswool and bulky knit,
V-necked ahd crew neck pullovers
and cardigans, are popular.
After six the Ivy Leaguer may
wear ,a plaid or striped natural
shoulder sport jacket and a pin
stripe, white or pastel shirt with
either a button-down or snap-tab
collar. The pants and an appro-
priate medium thin tie are all in
coordinating colors. A complimen-
tary silk handkerchief may be in
his lapel pocket.
Three-Piece Suit
For more formal occasions the
three-piece suit with a natural
shoulder jacket, pants and vest is
vorn. The Ivy look combines with
English wearing apparel to pro-
duce a classic image.
The ideal neckwear is a wide-
striped tie. The vest may be re-
versible-one side matching the
jacket and the other providing a
patterned color contrast.
Three-quarter length is replac-
ing the full length in overcoats'
for campus Wear. Charcoals, black,
brown and olive are the popular
colors in either herringbone or sol-
id styles.
Dressy Raincoat
Many students prefer a dressy
raincoat with a zipper lining which
can serve as a raincoat and over-
coat. The tapered look describes
the continental style. Shirts, pants,
sport jackets and suits have the
"slim fit" look.
A typical well-dressed conti-
nental attenas class wearing a tap-
ered shirt which buttons half way
down the front and has a narrow
snap-tab collar, high pocket, cuff-
lecs pants tapered to 13 inches and
chukka boots which are ankle high
loafers.
When the weather becomes cold-
er he may put on a bulky kniu or
ski sweater. Many of the fall
sweaters have themnew suede el-
bow patches. He may wear a pon-
cho, which is a half shirt and half
sweater.
New Shirts
Several new styles of continental
shirts appear in shop windows.
Fronts which zip instead of but-
ton and shirts without collars are
gaining in popularity. Either the
button-down or snap-tab collar is
demanded by the well-dressed con-
tinental.
Continental pants' have either
slanted front or high pockets -
pockets at belt level, no belt and
no cuffs. Some pants have a zip-
per near the ankle for extra ease
in putting on tapered socks.
Continental sport jackets and
suit coats have natural shoulders,
slanted pockets, a two button front1
and a tapered fit. A continental
jacket may have a belted back.
The continental lapel is longeri
than the Ivy League lapel althoughc
both emphasize a narrow line.1
Continental neckwear consists off
very narrow pin stripe ties.
By RICHARD KRAUT
Symbol of midnight intrigues,
Arabian cloak and dagger stories
and CIA failures, the trench coat
lifts the student from his drab,
scholastic life and delivers him
into the world of spine-tingling
fantasy whenever clouds gather
over the valley which is Ann Arbor.
The trench coat, a product of
the Maginot Line of the First
World War, has had such an up-
surge in popularity in the last few
years that it has become "de rig-
eur" for all college and job inter-
views. In fact, statistics show that
last year the trench coat was worn
by 76 per cent of all college fresh-
men to their interviews. The other
24 per cent, it was found, were
accepted because they had high
marks.
Even on Sunny Days
So great is the current popu-
larity of that multi-buttoned, off-
color lab coat that it is even worn
on perfectly sunny days. The
reason for this, the executive vice-
president of AWOTC (American
Wearers of Trench Coats) said at
last year's annual convention, is
that wearing a trench coat on a
sunny day is like walking around
with a life preserver, a fad of the
1920's.
There is a great deal of current
controversy concerning the origin
of the term "trench coat." Some
claim that the designer of the
coat made one for himself and
waited for the first rainy day to
wear it home from the office. The
big day arrived, and when he
opened the door to his house, his
wife exclaimed, "Why George!
You're absolutely trenched!"
Others believe that the strange
name is a result of the buttons
originally used for the coat. Dur-
ing the First World War, there
was a shortage of buttons, and'
since zippers had not yet been
invented, the designers of the coat
were forced to use combination
locks. Although this kept away
pickpockets and other "undesir-
ables," it often frustrated those
who had forgotten the combina-
tions to their locks, and they often
heatedly shouted, "Good God! I'm
entrenched in this coat."
The most popular theory, how-
ever, and the one to which the
University's Department of Trench
Coats subscribes, is that the coats
were worn by both Germans and
French in the trenches of World
War I. In this way, friendships
could be established by soldiers
in enemy camps, and the officers
were never the wiser. Today the
resulting similarity in rain-day
dress makes it impossible to iden-
tify one's closest friends. One even
has to resort to looking at faces.
Regardles of the origin of the
name, the trench coat will always
remain part of the student's rep-
ertoire in his eternal attempt to
protect himself against the na-
tural elements. For, above all--
even above the escape from real-
ity that the trench coat provides-
students are finding that the
trench coat keeps them dry-ex-
ternally, that is.
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SAME STYLES-Men's suits still look the same, and they still
look good. This well dressed young man is in a three-piece worsted
suit with a wide stripe tie. His Chesterfield overcoat and graphite
hat protect him in any weather.
Lfast Year's Suit -trends
Reign Again This Year
Black Umbrella Comes
In Varied Styles, Prices
By TOM HUNTER
There is something new in suits
-besides freshmen.
It's called the cardigan suit. It
has vents in back and button down
pockets in front, belts on the coat
and no belt on the trousers, form
fit, natural shoulders, continental
cut, high pockets, no cuffs, no la-
pels nor collar. And local clothiers
are avoiding it.
Opinion is that the innovation
TA TTERSALS:
Men's Clothing Features
Daring Styles in Vests
By THOMAS DRAPER
The most fashionable item of
clothing in the college man's ward-
robe today i the vest.
The vest is not only a sports
item, there are vests for every
degree' of dress. The sport vest is
used for casual wear and can be
worn without a jacket. It usually
has bright colors with the same
material in front and back.
Garter Hose
Trend Rising
Male Ann Arbor students are
divided in their opinions of socks.
White sweat socks are very pop-
ular as are the conservative colors
of black, brown, gray and olive.
There is a rising trend towards
calf and garter length hose. One
store manager notes that he has
always stocked these two styles.
However, with slacks becoming
tighter, they tend to ride up more.
Therefore, more men are return-
ing to these longer styles.
The popularity of the white
sweat sock is attributed by a lo-
cal merchant to its convenience.
He also added that sweat socks
were proper for everyday wear but
that a number of students also
wear them when they wear sports
jackets and suits. This, he declared,
is not correct.
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Pattern vests are popular and
dressy. There are three basic pat-
terns; solids, tattersals and prints.
Solid colored vests are worn
with jackets that have patterns.
They come in tan, olive, black,
gold and grey.
Tattersals
The tattersal is checked and is
usually worn with solid color suits,
blazers or sports coats. 'he pat-
tern always has a white back-
ground with two colors making the
checked design. One color runs
vertically, the other horizontally.
Navy blue, brown-tan and red-
'ack make up tattersal color com-
binations. Due to the checked pat-
tern, the tattersal is usually
thought of as a sporty garment,
but a shark skin suit with a tat-
teral vest, is very stylish..
Print patterns have not caught
o4. Paisley, for example, which was
mi roduced last year, is seen very
ittle on campus.
The matching vest is well es-
tablished in current fashion. Fifty
per cent of the suits sold today
come with them.
Wide Price Range
Vests range from $10-18. The
major factors determining price
a.c workmanship and quality of
the face cloth.
A local store manager surmises
that the popularity of vests us-
uaily runs in five year cycles. The
current fad started three years
ago, and leaves only two years to
"get with the vested" generation.
will be largely ignored and that
the trend of the last three or four
years will continue. Most stores
are stocking the reliable ivy cut
in muted tones. However, there
are new tastes in colors and fab-
rics, a marked trend to vests and
a greater reliance on sport coats
and slacks to take over certain
functions where suits once ruled.
Only a Fad
Most proprietors called the car-
digan suit a fad and did not givej
it much chance to catch on. One
said its "popularity is restricted
to the high school set." The same
applies with attempted revivals of
the double-breasted suit and one
and two-button suits.
The basic commodity on the
suit market remains the natural
shoulder, three-button ivy cut. It
will be the same model as last
year's with no indentation in the
coat and plain, dark, muted colors.
One clothier noted an increase
of about 20 per cent in vested suit
sales. A revival in vests started two
years ago, grew last year but has
become "really strong now." Vest-
ed suits reached a high point in
popularity 15 years ago.
Vest and Slacks
The four piece suit - capitaliz-'
ing on both trends to vests and the
sport combination-is being in-
troduced in at least one establish-
ment. This includes both the vest
and an alternate, dissimilar pair
of trousers.
There has been some attention
to muted plaids along the con-
servative line and to something
called the shadow plaid. One pro-
prietor said that blue was the big
color this year, another said that
brown was bigger. Either way, in-
cluding greys and blacks, no one
color will predominate.
Conservatism is the rule and the
charcoal influence will be wide
whatever the color.
Olive Popular
Olive is still popular, but not as
popular as two or three years ago,
due, one suiter said, to a satura-
tion of the market. He said that it
has been so well accepted that it
has become almost a basic color.
A slightly increased demand for
tweeds and herringbone worsteds
was noted.
The market was summed up this
way: "It is pretty simple nowadays
to buy your clothing. You are
dealing essentially with only one
model. There's really not much to
be offered by way of variation."
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Belts Take On
'Madras Look'
By MICHAEL ZWEIG
Belts and suspenders appear in
a variety of colors and materials
this fall.
Ann Arbor haberdashers expect
students to be interested in the
new Madras belt. The colors range
among reds, blues, whites, and all
their possible combinations. There
are also more subdued patterns to
decorate the waist.
Another new attraction is the
thin line, quarter inch belts of
solid color leather. Those looking
for the newest style on the racks
will find the link-belt, composed
of three long leather links con-
nected by metal hinges.
Expansion Belt
There is even a belt for people
who eat too much at once and
don't like the embarrassment of
moving the belt a notch or two
over for comfort. The comfortable
belt is made of rope-strands inter-
twined with elastic.
One manufacturer has a rever-
sible belt, brown on one side, black
on the other, with a buckle that
works on either side. The trend
in buckles is towards bigger and
stronger ones. ,
Suspenders are by no means for-
gotten, and the increased use of
vests and three piece suits adds to
their popularity.
Suspender Comeback
Usually suspenders are still worn
only with tuxedos or by gentlemen
with greater than a forty-six inch
waist, the maximum capacity for
the ready-made belt industry. The
distinguished snap of a suspender
strap echoing through the silence
of the UGLI is still a thing of the
future, but the comeback of sus-
penders is not impossible.
For the time being, however, the
only non-tuxedo wearing, non-vest
bearing gentleman who wears sus-
penders seems to be the pessimist.
By JAMES BERGER
The umbrella, "black compan-
ion" of Ann Arbor student's, is sell-
ing better than ever this year.
Merchants offer the student a
variety of prices and styles to in-
sure him protection from incle-
ment Ann Arbor weather.
The'umbrella has undergone few
changes this season. Some new
"gimmicks" have arrived this year,
but according to local merchants,
they have not substantially in-
creased sales.;
Prices Vary
In most stores the price of um-
brellas ranges from $3.95 to $7.95.
The two basic styles are the push-
button automatic and the man-
ually operated. According to sales-
men, these two styles sell equally
as well.
The umbrella comes in two
materials. Cheaper types are made
of acetate while higher price
models are made of nylon.
They, can be bought with or
without covers. The lower priced
models come without covers while
the $5.00 and up styles are us-
ually the slender type which come
with a nylon case.
Two Fads
The case is the key point of two
"fads." One Ann Arbor store has
installed a yellow 'M' on a navy
blue case in the hope of increas-
ing sales. Plaid cases have also
been put on the black umbrella.
Neither of these two devices are
selling well, a store manager noted.
A key point about umbrellas
is the handle, and here is one of
the biggest reasons for the diver-
sity of prices. The cheaper um-
brella usually has a thick wooden
handle. This handle often has
some sort of pattern.
As the price of umbrellas in-
creases, the size of the handle de-
creases. The $5.00 handle is con-
siderably thinner than the $3.95
handle; as the prices further in-
crease, the leather covered handle
made in Italy becomes the um-
brella's focal point.
Expensive Styles
The $7.95 umbrella is made of
nylon. It has a thin leather han-
dle and comes complete with a
leather case. The $3.95 umbrella
on the other hand is made of
acetate, with a thick wooden han-
dle, and no case. A local store
owner says higher priced umbrel-
las sell better than cheaper priced
styles.
Another extremely important
part of an umbrella is the shaft.
Shafts are usually made of steel.
One style, the $3.95, has a
wooden shaft. It is a manually
operated umbrella but has one
distinct advantage over other
types. At the tip of this wooden
shaft is a spring. If the wind
somehow forces the umbrella to
turn-inside-out, it can easily be
restored. Once an automatic um-
brella turns inside out, it can be
thrown away.
Male Apparel
10Still ToUse
N1atural Fibers
The fibers that make up men's
clothing often pass unnoticed, but
modern technology and. design
have made today's clothes more
comfortable and attractive than
ever before.
' Natural fibers are still the most
important. The most popular and
functional of these is wool. Wools
are tlistinguished by the way in
which the yarn has been spun.
In worsteds the fibers are comb-
ed out and twisted into smooth
yarn. This yarn is woven into
hard-finish fabrics like gabardines
and sharkskins for sturdy wear.
Soft Finish
Woolen yarns are not combed
and the resultant fabric has a soft-
finish feel like tweeds, cheviots
and some flannels.
Mohair, cashmere, alpaca, am-
el hair and vicuna are natural fi-
bers which are often combined
with wool for increased wearabil-
ity and wrinkle resistance.
These fibers are often laminat-
ed with foam which contributes
to the wearer's comfort in all
weather conditions.
Cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber with a
wide versatility. Cotton tightly
woven into poplin is often proc-
essed for water repellency and
used for rainwear. In shirts the
most popular weaves are broad-
cloths, oxfords and lightweight
batistes.
Nylon has great resistance to
wear and tear. Polyester, acrylic,
modacrylic and nytril are synthet-
ics of purely manmade origin
which are combined to provide
wrinkle resistance, light weight,
wash wearability and all weather
comfort.
"1
NOW SHOWING
WINHO
See New Collars
For Men's Shirts
Watch for higher collars to
come to the fore in both tradi-
tional and dress shirts for men
this fall. Off, white solids will
continue to gain acceptance in
business fashions.
1962
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