ZH; 4, 1963 THE MICHIGAN DAii.V wYr ,Y IIp MSS CII 24,.196 THI VMI( Vi('AN UA1L. I { . PAGE 11 Jackie Claims 'First in Fashion' By KAY PAYANT Throughout the history of fash- ion there have been few Ameri- cans leading the parade of best- dressed women, but since Jacque- line Kennedy became First Lady in 1960, she has had an undisput- I ed claim to the title of "First Lady of Fashion." Jackie's simple styles are in- expensively copied. So one does not need to look far to find an almost perfect replica of her. The "Jack- ie look" is popular with everyone from college girls to suburban housewives. The key to obtaining the "Jack- ie look" is simplicity. Clean, un- cluttered lines are a must, and styles must never look contrived. They must look as if they "just happened." This deliberate plain- ness that must never look deliber- ate has precipitated a change in women's fashions that shows little signs of abating., Weird Combinations Weird color combinations are another aspect of this new look. Jackie's appearance in pink slacks .' and aa orange sweater caused a storm of controversy among fash- ion experts, but now combinations likethis are received with little amazement. Jackie has many favorites, in- cluding bulky sweaters, single and double strands of pearls, sleeveless dresses, princess-likes and stand- away collars. Because of her love of color, she is never inconspicu- ous when she appears in public with her husband. She is always, as one fashion expert put it, "A marvelous spot of color." nored by her and she wears most colors throughout the year. Her love for Paris fashions has been greatly criticized, often by other best-dressed women such as Clare Booth Luce. This famous lady senator and former diplomat has stated that the wife of the President should wear American clothes and that buying Frenph gowns hurts our clothing industry. In fact, however, Jackie buys most of her clothes in the states. She favors many American design- ers, one of her favorites being Oleg Cassini. Greatest Influence "f Although all the Kennedy wom- en are leaders in fashion, Jackie is without a doubt the greatest in- fluence. It was said that on her Indian trip during the spring of 1962, by the end of the day all the women in the Kene'dy reti- nue had rumpled and untidy clothes. Jackie alone retained her neat, uncluttered look. Jackie's influence on today's fashion is immeasurable and she has been termed the most potent force in international fashion. Scarves Return, Enhance Collars Scarves have made a return to the fashion scene. Perfect entrance for an ascot, the sweater suit with the open collar ease. Soft lady- like fabrics of sliks and chiffons in shapes of triangles can be gent- ly knotted at the neck for a sil- houette of the new "natural shape." Small Hats Gain Usage For Season By MICHAEL SATTINGER Small hats, especially the bowler types, are becoming popular with young women for the spring and summer months. In the past, the younger wom- en have tended to avoid full-size hats and have instead resorted to whimsy veils, hatlets, circlets, coif pillboxes, caps and shells. These styles were termed by one millin- er as being "not hats, but apolo- gies." This year the non-hats will often employ straw fabrics and candy straws. Hat designers are empha-. sizing novel aspects of style and treatment to provide a large varie- ty of such non-hats. Little hats have been taking ground away from non-hats be- cause of their youthful appeal. They have also become more digni- fied because of their populariza- tion by the First Lady, Mrs. Jac- queline Kennedy. Often, these smaller hats will be made of flowers in multi-colors. They may include veils. The main lines of manufacturers will include many hats with brims. One of the most popuar hats with young women will be the small sissy sailors with the brim wori down. Also worn will be bretons and rollers with the brim rolled and turned up. European fedoras will make an appearance with a "man- nish" look. The brim will snap into a back-flipped position. By DIANE PINE and GAIL BLUMBERG It has long been thought that the super-sophisticate on the Uni- versity campus was the short skirted, knee-socked and loafer clad women. But a new "type" has emerged; she is the pseudo-New Yorker (PNY). Her personality manifests itself in an unusual choice of shoes, stockings and jewelry. The PNY's taste in shoes runs primarily to stacked heels and sandals. Although stacked heels have long been popular, spring brings new, dramatic variations. Patent and glossy leathers in clear reds, blues, and yellows, as well as in the traditional brown, black and white, are being seen again this year. Reptiles, Straws Reptiles and straws are giving new life to the traditional style. Multi-tones, mixed leather and fabric, and wild fabric patterns are being used to complement the simpler lines and solid colors of warm-weather fashions. An interesting variation on the stacked heel theme is the sling- back shoe which appears in the full gamut of colors and.styles. In warmer weather cur PNY comes into her own. She is seen, barelegged, in all types of sandals: thongs, slingbacks, open toes. Tight Fondness In early spring, the PNY may be distinguished by her fondness for tights. These are seen in many shades, but mainly in black. The black tights may be found II in a variety of patterns, including diamond shapes and stripes. In warmer weather, these are aban- doned in favor of bare legs. Our type delights in-the so- called "arty" jewelry. Her earrings tend towards lengthy chains with various ornaments at . the end, large hoops of gold and silver, and any other interesting and unusual shape. Particularly popular this year are earrings resembling pit- chers, wooden shoes, and antique sailing vessels. Link, Bangle There has been a large influx of imported jewelry. The over- laying of gold on black metal is found in the Spanish imports. One sees earrings, link and bangle bracelets, pendants, pins, and rings done in this manner. The Israeli imports are blue enamel or stone on silver back-' grounds, also found in all types of jewelry. Bangle bracelets are popular in domestic as well as im- ported materials, copper, gold, sil- ver, wood, and plastic. From the West Indies come long ropes of beads made of shells, seeds, beans and clay in vibrant colors. Add to this gold chains, and Venetian beads and that com- pletes our PNY's jewelry ward- robe. PNY'S: New Personality 'Type' Manifests Unusual Taste by Jacqueline, MRS. JOHN F. KENNEDY ... sets style Her .whims .are the concern of every hat manufacturer and can be seen by looking at the hats of any crowd of women. A year or so ago, she favored pillboxes and this style was about the only one found on the market during that time. Sometimes she declines to wear a hat and this always causes a stir. Shuns Rules Jackie Kennedy rebels against conventionality and refuses to conform to some of the basic rules of fashion. Such rules as certain colors for certain seasons are ig- t ti: >;F' :,. ,, fi '.py;;>fi ?4 i:4 {:ti: :: ii:f: iiC>> QF;:ji: ::. "_ ............... ......v: f i aWWN MEN'S and WOMEN'S YACHTSHU (also narrow widths) A- Prop 2-Pie in i woo -Line ortioned ice Outfit Imported -plaids -assorted tweeds . : ~ . , R" ~ t