THE MICHIGAN DAILY

Women Seek
Knee-Length

Prints, Madras, Paisleys Replace
Perennial Khaki-Colored Raincoat

I

n Hemlines

SETTING THE STYLES-New shades of tangerine, rust, gold and
emerald green will compete with the more conservative, subdued
colors in women's evening wear. Solid blacks, navies and greys
will also remain in the spotlight.
Vib rant oors Seen
F or CocktailDresses

By JUDITH BLEIER
It was once a theory that hem-
lines vary conversely to the econ-
omy, but current styles seem to,
substantiate, on the other hand,
the theory that says a woman has
a definite mind of her own.
During World War II the Ameri-
can woman wore her skirts short
to conserve on material which
went into soldier's uniforms. After
the war the peacetime economy
rose, and hemlines fell until the
1957-58 recession when skirts be-
gan to rise again.
Poses Problem
The last few years, however,
pose a problem for proponents of
the economically - based fashion
theory. Skirts are up and they're
going to stay there, fashion ex-
perts say.
"Bandstands" and "knee-scrap-
ers" have replaced last year's kilt,
and there's no indication that
hemlines are going to get any
longer. Just above the knee is the
latest in sportswear fashions.
One saleswoman noted that "We
don't get too many requests for
the bandstand length, but when
girls try them on they seem to like
them."
The new skirt length is found in
a variety of styles. The traditional
pleated and flared skirt, worn with
bulky sweaters and knee socks,-is
standard apparel for casual dates.
More original are the wool and
corduroy "study shifts" worn in
the dorm, outdoors, and to class-
instructor permitting. These loose
fitting and straight line outfits,
resembling the ever popular jump-
er, are worn over blouses and
sweaters.
Solids and Plaids
The short length styles come in
a variety of solids and plaids, with
emphasis on the spice tones, bril-
liant red, and emerald green.
Splashy magenta was pushed by
the style experts but not neces-
sarily bought.
The length of coeds' skirts is
approaching Bermuda length.
"Going up?" "Oh-no. Skirts can't
get any shorter," the expert ex-
claims.
"There's just no place to go."
Comparing hemlines to econo-
mies, one might think we were in
for a fall, but one must not under-
estimate the power of a woman-
especially when it comes to
fashion.

The khaki "uniform" trench
coat is slowly being replaced on
the Michgan campus. Now the
platoons of girls marching down
from the hill and through the
Engine Arch are all decked out in
color.
Prints in raincoats are very
stylish, perhaps because the touch
of color brightens ifp Ann Arbor's
gloomy days. And colorful they are
- floral prints, plaids, abstract
modern designs, and more paisleys
this years
Solid colored coats are in vogue,
too. The race for the most popular
color is between olive green and
black.
The chesterfield style, named for
a 19th century Earl of Chesterfield,

is still prominent. The tailored ball games. They allow plenty of
velvet or silk collar and straight room underneath for heavy sweat-
lines give a slim look for casual ers and when it rains the water
or dressy occasions. just slides off.
For those die-hards who can't The umbrellas that go up at
bear to see the "uniform" go out the rainy football games to ob-
of style, there are still many khaki struct everyone's view will also be
chesterfield coats with velvet col- decorated with flowers.
lars on campus. Raincoats are a true essential on
' The newest addition to the the University campus. Some girls
chesterfield style is the olive green may even buy two.
corduroy collar. The cost of raincoats this year
Stepping away from the. more ranges from about fifteen to forty
common cotton coats, today's rain- dollars.
wear is being made of foam-black Both green and black raincoats
jersey, Indian madras, felt - wool come with either a matching, solid
and brocaded material. collar, or a black velvet collar.
The poncho is the thing for Another style which boasts black
sportswear this year. These blan- velvet trimming in the black and
ket-like coats are ideal for foot- r nin -ringr n , tita

(.-----

On a campus oriented toward
informal wear, girls occasionally
I find it a pleasant switch to slip
into something dressy.
For those who have that urge
to adorn themselves in festive
cocktail dresses, occasions such as
Homecoming dance provide a wel-
come opportunity.
With Homecoming just a few
weeks away, Ann Arbor stores are
stocking up on the new fall fash-
ions in formal attire.
Gala Colors Seen
Fashion experts indicate that
the subdued, stand-by colors will
have to compete with new gala
tangerines, rusts, emerald greens,
champagnes, golds, blue and
magenta this season. Navy blue
and black, however, continue to be
among the best sellers.
An accent on brocade. is preva-

lent this fall. Gowns trimmed with
gold, pink, green and blue bro-
cade enhance full or straight lines
--just perfect for the Christmas
formals in the residence halls,
fraternities and sororities.
Cocktail dresses with pleated
skirts are again in style-both the
stitched-down pleat and thosej
pleated from the waist. Sheaths
and full-skirted dresses are al-
ways popular, clothing store per-
sonnel said.
Jacket-Dresses Popular
For the dressy fraternity party;
evening wear featuring jackets'
over scoop-necks are popular. For-
mals with shoe-string straps are
more popular than strapless
gowns.
Silks, taffetas, chiffons, knits
and jerseys continue to be the
favorite fabric choices.I

RAINY WEATHER-Chesterfield style raincoats have grown in
popularity across the nation. The slim-lined coats appear in olive
green, black, and pin-stripe, as well as the new florals and
abstract designs.

DISTINCT CHANGES: 
CoatStyles Tend To Follow
Jackie Kennedy Influence

Anyone who would suggest thatC-
the Jacqueline Kennedy influence
is limited to suits and dresses
simply is not knowledgeable in
fashion.
Under her spell the designers of
coats have made more drastic re-
visions in their new lines than is
customary.
r U

*

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Poplin
Al-Weather
Coats
Rain-Shine
* Raglan Sleeves
* Slash Pockets

The large collars, that stand up
so far from the shoulders that they
nearly hide the wearer's face have
literally shriveled up to nothing.
The collarless coat, so simple, so
stunning, epitomizes this year's
trend.
Cuffsi are no longer seen. Not
only would they look bulky and
awkward, but they would appear
completely unbalanced against the
stark simplicity of the neckline.
In fact, sleeves are often not
long enough for a cuff. Instead
they end four or five inches above
the wrist, molded loosely so the
wearer can casually push them up.
Coat hems, like all hems, are
short. Perhaps designers feel it
would be a shame to hide a pretty
leg so well set off in the new skirt
lengths under the folds of a heavy
coat.

COAT STYLES
... set new trends

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As part of the changing scene, we bring in the

medium-weight fur felt for fall-our newly tapered



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