SUNDAY, MARCH 15, 1964 THE MICHIGAN DAILY PA SUNDAY, ARCH 15,1964 --- ------ DAI. EVEN WOMEN SWITCH: Collegiates Prove Pipe's Popularity Men's Rainwear Styles Change Little BRIGHTER SHADES: Pullovers Dominate Spring Fashions By JOHN MEREDITH Pipe smoking has increased no- tieably at the University since the government issued its report on the relationship between smok- ing and cancer last January. One merchant reported that pipe s triped shirts ShirtsS how C D xl a f S Bold Colors By ALLISON SMALLEY What are the biggest coed catch- ers on campus? Manufacturers claim that shirts for spring will be the quickest way to catch a woman's eye. Brighter and bolder, the shirt of today scorns tradition. For dress wear, the conventional white has been replaced by sassy stripes. Ap- pearing from one sixteenth to one quarter inch in width, they run from hem to collar in blue, green, gray and beige. Even the more sedate gentleman can show spring fever, for solid colors of blue and pale yellow are becoming increasingly popular. Two darker shades, gray and co- coa brown, have also been well stocked in clothing stores. Short Sleeves No matter how hot Ann Arbor weather may become, the most well-dressed man can stay cool and comfortable, for 85 per cent of dress shirts are short-sleeved. Tab collars are fading away and the button down collar is making the scene again. The Ivy League style with its tapered seven inches from top to tail remains popular. Fabrics are dacron and cotton to minimize washing problems. Pick a color, pick a design, pick a fabric and you've probably pick- ed any one of the sport shirt combinations. For colors, multi- colored stripes are appearing on pastel backgrounds, and browns, blues and greens go attractively arty. Madras plaids are less expen- e sive this year since they are now produced domestically, and they are a sure bet for solid bermuda combinations. The best partner for madras bermudas is the round col- lared, knit sport shirt, with a con- trasting color trim edging the cowl. It's a sure winner for the golf links. sales during the past month in- creased 50 per cent over the pre- vious 30 day period. This figure includes, surprisingly enough, sales to women. Several companies are now mar- keting special pipes for women. These models are of a more deli- cate variety than standard pipes, and have considerably smaller bowls. If they have not had the experience already, men can look forward to their favorite ravish- ing blonde, brunette, or redhead gently reaching into her dainty purse and withdrawing a pipe which, after appropriate com- ments, he can gallantly light for her. Girls and Corncobs As the pretty young thing blows scented smoke into his face, he can utter a silent prayer of thanks that the girls have not yet adopt- ed corncobs. These are still con- fined to quaint villages of the Dogpatch variety in the hills of the Appalachians. In men's pipes, certain peren- nially popular shapes are still sell ing best. These are unostentatious in design and are generally sold in sizes than can comfortably be held in the mouth. The billiard shape remains the most promi- nent. Fads come and go, but the billiard always survives. However, pipe smokers are by no means confined to standard shapes. Indeed, one of the attrac- tions of pipe smoking is the in- finite varieties of shapes, prices and sizes that are available. A man can truly assume a new per- sonality merely by withdrawing a different kind of pipe from his bulging pockets. Large Bowls The virile, strong-jawed speci- men of American manhood can stick out his chin and clasp a large, heavy-bowled pipe in his mouth as a challenge to his lesser broth- ers around campus. The big bowls come in numerous shapes, includ- ing round, square, octagonal and more radical designs. Some hold no more tobacco than much small- er models, the size of the bowl being determined by very thick wood surrounding the tobacco con- taining portion. On the other extreme, minia- ture pipes with tiny bowls can be purchased for that quick smoke between classes. These, too, come in many shapes. If the smoker prefers a stand- ard size, he still has limitless opportunity to match the shape of his pipe with his mood of the mo- ment. Bulldogs, squat bulldogs, pears, apples, mushrooms, and pots are among the more conservative shapes commonly sold. For the man with more radical tastes, such designs as the acorn, a bowl with a pointed bottom marking the sharp curve in a half-oval shape, can be purchased. Variety of Stems Stems, as well as bowls, lend variety to pipes. The most common stem is the plain, straight model. However, bent and half-bent stems are also frequently seen. Many dif- ferent filtering arrangements are offered to give a smoother smoke asnd trap those "nasty little cancer germs." Pipes are made of many differ- ent materials, briar and meer- schaum being among the most popular. Most of the cheaper pipes come with a dark, shiny varnish finish, AN EVENING OUT-The gentlemen above are prepared for a formal party. The white dinner jacket, complemented by a graph- ite colored felt hat, has long been a standard for spring evening wear. For protection from inclement weather,- the all-weather topcoat illustrated is quite popular. The silver tipped umbrella and boucle straw hat nicely complete the outfit. Formal Wear Indicates Stress on LightTones By PETER MATTILA With spring just around the corner the young collegiate man's thoughts turn not only to poetic thoughts of love and romance but to more practical things like rain- coats and umbrellas. For, as any experienced Ann Arbor student knows, spring is a time of rain, the monsoon season in fact. And even the most naive fresmen has learned by now the standard of dress even if he isn't aware of its justification. This standard of dress consists of a knee-length, dacron and cot- ton, water-repellent raincoat (in black or cream) and a silver-tip- ped umbrella (strictly in black). All-Weather Raincoat and topcoat needs are increasingly being satisfied for the practical young student, as well as the man out in the cruel world,' by one all-weather coat. This coat is snow and rain repel- lent and has a zip-in lining for cold weather use. The coat is of a dacron and cot- ton mix which is washable, dur- able, and wrinkle resistent. The most popular colors are plain, black and cream or white, yet small checks and plaids in dark colors have been growing in popularity. The trend is also towards a more "dressy" all-purpose coat. This is demonstrated by the slash pockets, the "set in sleeve" in front, and the "fly front" which covers the buttons. This last tech- nique also has the advantage of covering the spots of most wear and tear, the button holes. Shoulder Styles The style technique at the shoulder is known as the "set in sleeve" in front and the raglen back. The former gives a dressy appearance while the latter re- tains the comfort of the raglen cut. -Umbrella style remains constant. The -only demands are those for black color, sharp silver-tipped walking sticks and support rods that hold up in March winds. Only the latter style is hard to pur- chase. For those who are looking for- ward to next fall or who are es- pecially pessimistic about spring, the word on topcoats is that wool dress coats are out and not ex- pected to make a comeback. Dac- ron and cotton as well as the standard herringbone are the big sellers today. Just like women's shirts, the trend on length of topcoats is short. They were one inch shorter last fall than before and will be called knee breakers next fall. By JAMES PETERSON It's burgundy and light blue colored pull-overs in men's sweat- er fashions this spring. Since pull-overs have been the big sellers since the fall, this is nothing new. Fall is traditionally the season for new styles. Colors are apt to change, how- ever, from the dark grey and olive shades to lighter shades more ap- propriate forhspring. Burgundy and camel shades are still big sellers. Lamb's Wool Popular The- biggest selling fabric this winter was lamb's wool and so you should expect many such sweaters in the popular V-neck style to re- main on the shelves. Local merchants are selling mo- hair and cashmere sweaters in % camel and grey in addition to the alpaca weave sweater, which is a spring sweater ideally suited to an afternoon on the golf course. They are also selling the lighter weight alpaca style. The popular- ity of this sweater stems from its nice tailoring. In many an in- stance, it might substitute for a jacket. French Import Merchants offer sellections of fine lamb's wool and shetland crewnecks ant. V-necks imported from England. One of the few new style offerings is a highly contin- ental French import. This sweater hangs loose, has sleeves that are tailored and is without seams. Most quality sweaters sell from $14.00 to $40.00 with the alpacas, mohairs and cashmeres more ex- I By FREDERICK L. COHN Formal fashions for both sum- mer and winter are shifting to lighter, bolder tones, emphasizing versatility. This trend to lightness is a mirroring of the sportier fash- ion trend throughout mens' wear. Summer formal fashions are swinging away from the tradition- al white dinner jacket to imported cotton batiks, muted madras, and solid color silk jackets. This change is especially apparent in college and young mens' fashions. The batik, madras, and colored silk jackets are more versatile and colorful than the conventional white jacket, and are sportier for the summer and resort formal evening wear. Jacket styling is changing too, to fit this sportier trend. Both white and non-white formal coats are cut slimmer and are shifting from two-button to one-button models. The shawl collars are becoming more angled toward the single button, replacing the convention- al tapered shawl. But be it white or colored formal dinner jacket, the black slacks ,hose and shoes ensemble completes the correct formal attire. Slacks are cut slim- mer with pleatless fronts; plain black loafers are acceptable with summer formal wear. Formal accessories for summer wear feature the new vest look. Beginning to replace the matching cummerbund and tie, the match- ing vest and tie, or lively vest and pensive than the lambs wool. 7 relatively inexpensive cost of lambs wool sweater coupled w its unobtrusive look may acco for its popularity. The peculiar popularity of V-neck is particularly interest because the burgundy colored neck reverts to what was popu in the '40s and illustrates h little men's fashions have chang This is not to say that me sweater fashions haven't chan at all. The new cadet collar made inrodes simply because the desire among some men something new. This style, p terned after the West Po jacket, has been selling regula The jacket style sweater is ways a regular seller also. Ol University men prefer them. black tie, reflect ' the sportier trend. Vests range from black and other subdued colors, to scotch plaids and batik patterns. Even the traditional cummerbund sets are brightening up with new plaid and batik models, to supplement traditional solid colors. Jewelry for summer formal wear includes white, black or colored studs and cuff-links. Pleated or fancier ruffled shirts complete the summer formal look. Black rain- coats, if necessary, are the correct outer coat for summer formal fashion. Winter formal fashions are based around the, traditional black tuxedo. The trend in tuxedo styl- ing is again toward the newer one- button, tapered-shawl-collar mod- el. Slacks have unpleated fronts with a slightly tapered look. The traditional pleated shirt and tie- cummerbund set is still good fash- ion, however, formal vests, in usu- ally more subdued plain colors or patterns, are growing in popular- ity. Formal jewelry for winter cen- ters around black or gold studs and matching-cuff-links. The plain black loafer is considered by many fashion experts to be improper for winter formal dress. A plain-toe black tie shoe is preferred. Black hose white silk neck scarf, black homberg or snap brim dress hat, black overcoat and off-white gloves complete the well dressed winter man's attire. / ' 'U Wit °: " . : '1 'I" f ,t j 7 you can shake a stick at f rom our "shirt story" is as many fabrics as unt V the fur . ~ing la lo' ged. ged has for iat- )ir rly. al- der := 595 t 895 """" vw ,,mw FOR YOUR. * f in 0 0 SOUTHERN EXPOSURE 1 I VACATI SPORT COAT SLACKS.. JACKETS .... BERMUDAS . POLO SHIRTS SPORT SHIRT TENNIS SHOE SWIM WEAR BELTS. ON MUSTS S . from 32.50 . 6.95 . . . . .. 8.9 5 .S .......... 3.95 GS . ... 5.95 . .. .... 4.00 .. .. . ...... 2.50 \ 4' . - \i).,, "Open Monday Evenings" A 4' JollMEYEPU. Bermuda shorts as welcome to see as +hfirs rdnfodil.Rresh and New 'Natural Wonder' visibly improves your com- plexion ... and flatters you as only a Revlon make-up can! Helps prevent skin problems because it's actively antiseptic, and absolutely non-greasy. Choose ' i.~rAI Wnr'- Mane (for etrnenrealine cover- Stop by soon and treat yourself to a rewarding preview of the lightweight clothing "in force" this season. Just in time for your trip to Florida and the coming sunnmer months. . 't..3...t.1 .E