SUNDAY, MARCH 15,1964 THE MICHIGAN DAILY SUNDAY, MARCH 15, 1984 THE MICHIGAN BATTY PAGE N.THRl FEMININE LOOK: a Stress Comfort in Formals By KAREN KENAH Comfortable femininity has re- turned to the fashion scene in cocktail wear for evening this spring. Gone are the days of not breath- ing for the stays of a merry wid- ow; gone, at least for a while, are the days of the too-tight girdle. Today, the dress is being con- structed with the woman in mind. Nor does it less enhance the figure which it fits: With increased comfort has come a mature wo- manliness of style. The woman is once again a human being and aot a china doll who looks and feels sure to break if seated in- ,orrectly. - Simplicity The key to the new look is sim- plicity, but carried to extremes. Material, drape, and ornament strive -to attain impact. Materials are important in this spring's look. Colors are either very plain, black and white very popu- lar, or positively wild. The texture and content of the fabric' is extremely important. Equally in style are starchy piques and light, flowing blends of rayon, silk and other synthetics. Dresses Drape Drape this spring can be taken at face value, for evening dresses do drape. They do not stand stiff- ly away from the figure or mold stubbornly to it. At last women do "not have to spend their even- ings concentrating on holding in their stomachs. Waistlines are for the most part either Just below the bust or ab- sent altogether. When present, they are defined by a simple line of stitching or small sash. Often they are not drawn close to the body even here, the skirt of the dress falling from its collar with the most transitory of interrup- tions. Even when the waistline is in the conventional place it is sel- dom fully defined, but, rather, suggested by small darts or a slight taper. The woman is thus Spring Spurns Teasing, Hair Becomes Natural By ROSALIE BAINE but they caution against a conflict The bushy, stiffened mass of between skin and eye color. wavy wire that has passed for Not to be forgotten is the long hair since teasing, came in is beatnik effect often used by per- positively out! Fashions again will sons with exceptionally straight allow hair to actually look like hair. This style does have its ad- hair. vantages-it never has to be set Long, overteased, black-combed and one can ride in a convertible flips are definitely antiquated. The with no worries at all. new styles require rather short However, the new style should hair-not below the nape of the also have many of the same ad- neck. Hair may or may not be vantages. Since it is short and blunt cut, depending on its type. natural, the hair should hold its To replace the stiff "bubble," set without resetting between an entirely new type is here. To washings. If the simple style give the necessary height these should become disarranged, it depend on, lifting and pinning could be quickly and simply comb- locks of hair. Hair is still nearly ed into shape. None of the time- straight with perhaps just a sug- consuming re-teasing, re-spraying, gestion of a wave, re-shaping procedure so often used, Cheek Curls and Bangs by the wearers of a bubble will be The only exception to this rule necessary. You can throw out that is the hair at the sides. It is can of hair spray which once ac- brought around the face in cheek companied everyone everywhere. curls on both sides. The back, The 'Hidden Body' Look however, remains-straight. The key to the new look is the Bangs, of course, are still in-- "hidden body" that everyone must they range from feather bangs to be familiar with. However, the the heavier, almost layered type. "body" must be very well hidden. Most popular are the short, gent- The style should look effortless, ly combed to one side variety. painlessly neat, soft and natural. Even evening styles tend to be To attain this ideal, hair should far more simple. Such styles pos- be washed often. Use of stick hair sibly have more curl than their spray should be kept at a mini- casual counterparts. In any case, mum-just enough to hold the set. the hit-em-in-the-eye shocking If hair is exceptionally curly, type effect has given way to an straightening is suggested. extremely sleek, smooth look. This spring should produce a Authorities say the blonde is softer, more feminine look in hair still the most popular hair color, styles. What a welcome relief! ON THE BEACH: Girl's Swimsuits ShowDegage Look By NANCY CHESLER By NACY CH~tERBright colors are definitely "in." The French have a word for it. However solid colored suits seem Degage means loose or relaxed and to be on their way out and prints the degage look willbe seen loung- are taking over. ing on all the beaches this sum- Biggest of the prints are the mer. polka dots which are currently The new casual look in swim- sweeping the entire fashion Indus- suits is best shown in the blouson try. top, hanging loose to the hips. Already known for breaking box Hip-belts and sashes are shown office records all over the coun- on many suits but are not neces- try, "Tom Jones" is also breaking sary for the look. fashion records. The bikini suit is Necklines are scooped and fall expected to be the biggest seller casually just below the collar bone. this year, due to the influence of Judging by the success of the the Albert Finney movie. covered up suit last season, women Bikinis Are In are more than willing to give up sunning for fashion. Under the imfluence of the low,,>.. sunningorashionre. cut look which dominates the Woman's Secret Weapon movie, University coeds have The California boy leg may well bought more of the new Nutty :'*. "t be this year's secret weapon for Bikinis this year than ever before. many women. Long enough to con- Skirts appear to be less common oeal many figure flaws, it is still this season. short enough to accentuate the The two-piece suit promises to long-legged look, be a big seller this season. The The degage suit may be a one same covered-up look as domi- or a two-piece suit. Most favored nates the degage look is the secret fabrics are knits and synthetics ingredient that makes this year's Over the degage suits, women two-piece special. k4 will be wearing new wild shifts. Not to be outdone by "Toms:.. A-lines are most popular. Jones," the Beatles influence will The full range of the rainbow predominate in beach accessor- will be visible on this year's suits. Wies- ... Briefer look in swim suit SHOW-OFF! FOR ELEGANT DRESSING, the long styles have once again be- come popular. The long sweep of the dress, its graceful folds, create a slimmer, more dignified look. Adorned with long gloves, the scooped neck and tight bodice exude elegance and beauty. enhanced by what is left to the imagination. Skirt Emphasized With the waistline high or ab- sent, emphasis falls on the skirt and hips of the woman wearing it. The skirt is neither very full nor very tight, but employs one of two basic styles. It may be made of a fairly flexible material and con- tain just enough fabric to fall in graceful folds which emphasize the movement of the wearer. Or the skirt may define more clearly the hipline, falling straight from hips to hem. Because of the importance of the skirt, the hemline is also im- portant. It is in essentially the same place as last year, at the middle of the knee. Daring Necklines Necklines have taken perhaps the most daring path this spring, definitely down. In opposition to the rest of the trend which seeks to enhance by concealing, the neckline enhances by allowing a tantalizing and daring peek at the part of the female which is perhaps most expressive of her femininity. However, for the less.bold, more subdued necklines are also stylish, the most attractive of these being perhaps the line midway between the shoulder and collar bone. Simplicity and femininity carry over into themes for ornamenta- tion of these creations. Often there is no added flourish, origin- ality stemming from the boldness of line. Ruffles have changed character radically. This spring they are long and graceful, used mostly singly tt stress the femininity of a neck- line or to enhance the front of a dress by extending its entire length. Y " .. Dressed for cocktails I' EMPHASIZE FEMININITY: Plunging Neckline Arrives From Europe, Creates Stir By JAMES PETERSON The. plunging neckline has in- evitably arrived in America from the continent and has already started to create a stir. With the new emphasis on the feminine and romantic in wo- men's clothes, renewed interest in the bosom was bound to arise. Re- 3ulting are extremely low cut neck- lines designed in a V, UT or square shape and devised to show a prom- inent rise in the bust. Some of the necklines are so low that the bras are build right into the garments. 'Tom Jones' Style The whole trend got started last fall when , the House of Dior brought out its striking "Tom Jones" original, an after-five gown with a low cut V-neck sur- rounded by ruffles. This extreme- ly feminine dress quickly interest- ed 7th Avenue enough to follow suit. This winter and spring a string 3f evening gowns and cocktail dresses with low necklines has been pouring out of New York. The American woman has re- sponded and the new style is sell- ing. Local merchants report that the new style has been selling well, especially the long evening gowns. They expect that cocktail dresses with the low neckline will do as well when they go on sale soon. Dior Collection The fascinating thing about this new craze in plunging necklines is that it all began with two dresses in a Dior collection that numbers some 250 items. The two gowns- after-five dresses-were added to the collection with the full un- derstanding that they might not move. But move they did, and their prototypes are proving a popular improvement over the harsh and severe styles that have been fill- ing the women's wear market in the past years. " '/ r r it a 9 B. \\ qm WAY& I)