Sunday, October 19, 1969
THE MICHIGAN DAILY
Page Seven
Sunday, October 1 9, 1969 THE MICHIGAN DAILY Page Seven
THIS
IS
the
Ann
Arbor
Look
N
N
1970-Return to the Past?
By LINDA DEUTSCH
LOS ANGELES AP-The fashion time machine whirled
in dizzying circles over the weekend at the openings of
California designers' spring and resort wear showings.
The week-long preview promised an eclectic array
of styles harking back to the 1920s, flirting with the 1940s
and circling in on that target year-1970.
The fashion opener was a special award to designer
Michael Travis who creates costmumes for television's
"Laugh-ln" show. The California Fashion Creators cited
Travis for "the best interpretation of contemporary fashion
in television costuming."
In a half-serious showing, "Laugh-In" cast members
romped down a ramp in clothes culled from the show's week-
ly "cocktail party" segment. They reflected the new timeless
era in California togs.
First came a chorus line in a copy of the 1940s gown
once worn in slinky style by Bette Davis. Then long, flaring
pink crepe pants and blouse fluidly sashed in Grecian folds.
And finally micro-mini cocktail dresses.
As a spokesman for Fashion Creators explained, Travis
was cited "not so much because he is an innovator as be-
cause he is of today. He reflects our fashion industry's moods
and whims."
Those moods are bound to vary as the previews proceed
from conture dresses, sportswear and swimwear to a "pace-
makers" show featuring new, young California designers
with more whimsy than most.
Fashion makers not they've kicked the slogans "mod,"
"kookie,' and "unisex." The keywords this year? "Funky,"
"funny," "tatty" and even "feminine."'
LOOK AT THE SLEEVES!-Buff shade blouse with standard puff sleeves and pan velvet blouse in wine with long point
over-the-wrist cuffs. Both by Evan Picone. Blouses courtesy Mary Dibble.
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By LAURIE HARRIS
The sleeve has as many variations as the skirt this
year beginning at micro-mini puffs to cascading folds of
material that reach knee length.
Often pleated at the shoulder and billowing out like a
sail is one very prominent sleeve. The flounce is often
gathered into a four-inch cuff or is merely caught up in
elastic. But it is always longer than the necessary length
drifting over the wrist and often hiding the hand.
The style is nothing new. It has descended down
through the eras since at least Elizabethan times. But now
this particular sleeve has reached enormous proportions
stretching in width to almost two feet. And the material
is limper than ever before so that it either droops or is
caught up in the wind. The style isn't starchiness of the
eras from which it came.
A style popular to unisex clothing is the angel cut
sleeve.
A diagonal slash culminates in points which have been
known to droop to almost two feet distant from the wrist.
The pattern is particularly popular in the bizarre african
prints. But it gained its original vivacity from Simplicity
Patterns' "Tablecloth dress' which can be made from a
length of material, or as is indicated by its name-a table-
cloth.
Mutton sleeves which began in the Edwardinan era
were renewed last year. But they too appear on today's
bodies with a series of variations.
Delicate puffs are gathered a quarter of the way down
the arm and then tapered to be close fitting. Or perhaps they
are gathered and the rest of the material is allowed to hang
loosely around the arm. Another version is to have not just
the first puff, but perhaps, two more all ending in a ruffle
along the wrist.
A sieve, not like the other mentioned, is the singular
puff that just rounds the shoulder and grips the arm with
elastic.
Cuffs have a variations also. They stem from the non-
existent to the all to overpowering. Many styles are merely
gathered with a small piece of banding to hide raw edges.
But more often, the cuffs have been enlarged to reach over
halfway up the forearm.
These same cuffs can either be skin tight or flare out
to ridiculous dimensions.
But with all these various style of sleeves, there have
been multitudes of fabric designed to enhance their already
flamboyant styles.
Photos by
THE MEDIUM'S MOUTH
See through dacron has become popular for every type
I have mentioned perhaps with the exclusion of the short
puff.
Satin backed crepes, crushed velvet, jersey and syn-
thetics have all been added for aesthetics.
But one mustn't forget that the sleeve is only a portion
of an item of clothing. At least presently there no sleeve
stores in Ann Arbor. When one looks for the various styles
I have spoken of, they must look for them attached to a
piece of clothing that has often been called a blouse. How-
ever, the blouseehas disappeared under the magnanimity
of the "new"' sleeve.
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