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ENS, WOMENS FASHIONS COORDINATED:_
Shaggier, Bulkier Sweaters Take Over for Fall
OE

Ivy League Styles Remain Popu
Despite Trend to Conservatism

.,

Womens

The latest fashion designs this
ear are merely a continuation of
trend which began a few years
go - that of hiding the fem-
zine figure as best as possible.
And this year the extreme has
een reached - designers have
nally succeeded in taking the
irves out of sweaters.
Long lines, shaggy and mohair
abrics, and bulky knits are the
chic" styles of the day which are
,st replacing the traditional
assic pullover and cardigan
yles.
Chemise Reiterated
The 1958 fall edition of the
weater must be 22 inches long
efore it can pass as the latest
;yle. The longer line reiterates
le chemise style and fits loosely
bout the waist and then nar-.
)ws at the hips.
Vest sweaters, "Perry Como"
ardigans, crew neck varieties, and
ren the classic cardigan have all
een stretched to the new length.
he only style which remains at
shorter length is the bulky,
aist-fitting vest.
Replacing the traditional crew
eck, shetland+ cardigan is the
ew style of the "Perry Como"
Neater. The new variety comes,
ther in the bulky, shetland fab-
cs or in softer fur blend syn-
etics. (For the uneducated: this
yle is a new name for the V-
.cked cardigan).
Several of these new sweaters
n be purchased with a separate

wool insert for the V-neck to be
worn as a regular sweater and
not as a cardigan over a blouse.
Vest sweaters (sleeveless cardi-
gans) are another innovation of
the fashion designers for this
year. This style comes both in the
new long. length or the shorter
waist length.
Perhaps the latest news in
sweaters is the new shaggy and
bulky f a b r i c s used. 'Hairy'
sweaters are becoming widely ac-
cepted fashion on campuses,
throughout the country. Mohair'
blends are used to produce this
long hair effect in the fabric.
Styles Copied
Heavy bulky wool knits are now
being fashioned into all the latest
styles. Cable stitching and un-
usual p a t t e r n s make these
sweaters fashionable. Also .in the
latest styles are the new 'Euro-
pean' patterned sweaters. These
patterns are copies of (or imports
of) patterns found in sweaters of
the 'Scandinavian countries.
Brilliant colors are a necessity,
according to designers. Vibrating
shades of blue, orange and red
lead in colors used, with the new
soft shade of olive (or fashion-
ably speaking, 'avocado') green
taking a close second.
The styles of last year have not
been forgotten, however. Shetland
crew necks and cardigans are still
basic and useful in any collegian's
wardrobe. A new innovation in
this sweater is the bateau neck-
line and .a few of the shetlands

are being shown with the rolled
collars.
Classic pullovers and cardigans
are still being sold as basic items
to the wardrobe. New styles are
now available in cashmeres, fur
blends and synthetic fabrics.
The high waisted 'empire' look
has been added to some of these
softer fabric sweaters.
If the fashion designer's ideas
are fully accepted on campus,
feminine figures will be noticeable
on only certain days (when the
classic sweaters are worn) - but
for the most part they will be hid-
den behind bulky, loose-fitting
sweaters.
Mens
Although the sweater for the
well-dressed man on campus has
been the crew-neck for the past
few years, this year the cardigan
is giving it a run for the money.
This fall's sweater mania among
men is bringing out everything
from double-breasted cardigans to
madly plaided pullovers. The wool
tends to be shaggier than usual
and the colors are a little bolder.
The cardigan, particularly the
three-button version popularized
by Pat Boone, is seen on campus
in solid colors or with a narrow
stripe down the edge. There is also
an equally popular four-button
version, and both styles come in
either light-, medium- or heavy-
weight yarns. They also come in
either sleeveless or sleeved ver-
sions.
Pullover Basic
The non-cardigan, or pullover,,
is the most ,basic, and therefore
the most variable of styles. The
crew-neck, which was once knit
only in rather subdued colors, ap-
pears now in bold stripes and bold-
er color combinations.
Fabrics are the attention-get-
ting element this fall, with' the
rising popularity of the shaggy
mohair, and other. Shetland and3
brushed wools which appear in
the styles this fall.
One striking example of the
"new look" in pullovers is a combi-,
nation - knit of red, white and
black yarns, which produces an
interesting tweedy effect.;
Warmth Provided;
The heavier knit sweaters are
meant for outdoor wear, and they
provide the warmth necessary for
pursuit of active hobbies such' as1
skiing, skating, winter-time Arb-
going, etc.
Many of the sweaters show the
European influence in design and
color combinations. One Italian
import is a bulky, black-and-white,
ski sweater, with stripes two inches
wide, and a thick, semi-turtle-
neck collar.
Another European design is a
plain-necked pullover in an exotic1

-Daily-Robert Kanner
MATCH MATES - These "look alikes" are not twins; they
merely go togeher. Crew necks like these are availablein various
designs and colors.

loW is THETIME .
With fraternity rushing over

black and gold knit which gives
the effect of tiny squares. The
same interesting combination of
black and dull gold is used in an-
other pullover, this one with fine
gold stripes running through the
wide black strips. The neckline is
knitted in a V-pattern, using the
colors of the sweater in broad
stripes. -
Stripes Featured
The ski sweaters come 'in every-
thing -from stripes and checks to
blanket patterns, as illustrated by
one Danish sweater, knit in red,
black, and white. The effect of the
pattern is reminiscent of a Navajo
blanket, and it is quite striking.
The so-called "Scandinavian"
design is still popular, in sweaters
both bulky-knit and relatively,
light-weight. Many of these come
with matching ski caps and mit'-
tens, and don't have, to be worn
exclusively for skiing.
Not quite a sweater, and yet not
exactly a shirt, are the polo shirts,
sometimes called, logically enough,
a sweater shirt. Knit in most yarn
combinations, it is generally light-
er-weight than most cardigans or
pullovers, and still heavier than
the original polo shirt.

Some sweater shirts have added
buttons along with the extra
weight to heighten the resem-
blance to the sweater. Previously
available only in solid colors,
mostly white, they are now being
produced in the same stripes and
patterns as their ."full-fledged
sweaters.
The sweater shirts, as well as
the "bulkies," are showing a par-
ticular interest in the collar detail.
Everything from the classic shawl
collar to a convertible collar, to
the continental collar, introduced
a few years back.
One problem .which .men have
not been able to solve yet, however,
is the plagarism by women. When
the crew-neck was first intro-
duced, it was snapped up by style-
conscious coeds, and the bulky
knits are destined for the same
fate. '
For the lucky male who has .a
talented girl-friend, it should be
fairly easy to acquire a custom-
made bulky sweater. For those who
are not so fortunate, though, the
Ann Arbor shops are well-equipped
this fall to supply them with any-;
thing (literally) in the way of
ready-made sweaters.

The Ivy Leage, scorned'in the
midwest for its low-power football
and high-power professor, has
nonetheless given us many valu-
able items of apparel, such as sad-
die shoes, khaki pants, hip flasks
and raccoon coats.
Most devastating, however, of
ivy contributions, is "ivy league.
clothing," according- to a Univer-
sity sociologist. who wished to re-
main anonymous.
A random sample of students
leaving the Undergrad Library re-
vealed seven tweed sports coats
and a four button worsted suit, as
compared to one cutaway, one pair
of bib overalls and two leotards.
The last were both worn by a
coldblooded coed.
Clothing Typed
Ivy apparel can be analyzed
most effectively, however, when
divided into types of clothing.
Only; a few students, for example,
go to the extreme of the sopho-
more found in the Union men's
room, pulling up his Edwardian
tweed socks.
The suit would naturally begin
the rundown of clothing, being
most stable. The chemise is only
the faint faraway echo of a beau-
tiful song and the empire look. is
back instead, but the men who
escort the wearers of the afore-
mentioned costumes will be quite
safe in last year's ivy league suits.
There are always changes in
men's wear and this year has
proved no exception. The belt in
the back having descended. the
social scale to that of the motor-
cycle Jacket, has been abandoned
by the fashionable suitmakers.'
Constancy Note
But the suits, whether tweed,
flannel, worsted or some more
quad-like fabric, for the most part
look the same.,
And the old reliable blue-flannel1
blazer with brass buttons is back
again too. In the past few years
a double-breasted version has ap-
peared beside it in the Ann Arbor-
shops, although this remains most
popular with retired British army
officers.
The past few seasons have also
seen the introduction of dark
brown, dark.olive, oxford grey and
striped or plaid blazers, which
have failed to supplant the stand-t
ard-blue Job despite the beautiful
buttons many sport.
laen Popular
These blazers are for the most
par worn with off-color slacks,
gray with the navy blue, blue with
the grey, dark brown with the
brown and so on. Some students
wear blazers with khaki twill
pants, but these may be discarded
when fashion is being discussed.
Taking a hint from the blazer
and, slacks combination, some
clothing lines this year feature
suits in which the coat has metal
buttons like a blazer and one of
the pairs of slacks is striped in a
darker tone of the same color.
These combination suits, how-
ever, are more closely akin to the
station wagon of the exurbanite
than the bicycle of the student..
When the ivy-minded student,
not to be confused with the stu-
dent whose mind is merely musty,
removes his sportcoat or blazer
he dons inevitably a sweater. The

IVY LEAGUE -- Although the Lvy League fashion does not
dominate this year's styles in men's clothing, it still remains
popular In jackets, topc ts, Iacks and sweaters.

now is the time to relax with
a fine Pipe*

i

sweater may be a furry shetland
a corded bulky - knit,, a wild-
striped cardigan or a white tennis
pullover alb Jack Kramer, but a
sweater it must be. -'
'Shirt Dirty?'
Sophomores and juniors will
have discovered the prime ad-
vantage to wearing a sweater: the
shirt underneath can be very
dirty, just so it has a button down
collar.
Other ivy essentials include the
aforetomentioned shirt. Oxford
cloth is of course prefered, and it
is available in various stripes as
well as solid blue, buff, grey and
white.
Foulard and Paisley patterns,
those clever borrowings from the

British which combine uncombil-
able hues, have found their way
into. sport shirts with a vengance,
although the ivy purist night pre,
fer them on his tie.
Wardrobe Qoncludes
And the ivy wardrobe concludes
most naturally with the feet, en-
cased first in sweatsocks and then
in either moldy tennis-shoes, run-
down loafers or mirror-polished
cordovans.
An alternate way of .concluding
the description is with the om-
nipresent raincoat, worn by male
and female alike, which is used
to conceal or at least obscure the
major portion of the remaindeir
of the ivy wardrobe as it billows-
about the wearer on all occasions.

NEW ERA
London Made.
The rich mellow walnut finish
accentuates the beauty of this
pipe's fine briar . . . any perfect
briar, which undergoes long sea-
soning, is used. 0Every detail is
perfect, from the fittig of the
hand-cut mouthpiece, to the bev-
elled edge of the bowl.

PHEHISTORIC.
London Made
The handsome, rugged surface
of the bowl offers these smok-
ing advantages in addition to
its smart appearance: Lighter
weight, the soft surface briar has
been removed; cooler smoking,
the rough surface offers a larger
area to radiate the heat. " Black
Vulcanite handcut stem and dark
finish briar.


SPORTSWEAR SCENE:
Sweaters Lead in Appeal

APIPE Cs EN TE
1209A South VIliversity - Ph. NO 3-6235

Open 'til 8:30 on Wed., Thur. and Fri. nights

In men's sportswear, sweaters
are the thing this year.
Black is the influencing color
this year. This year students no-
tice very few light colored sport
shirts and coats. Shirts are main-
ly miniature checks, stripes or
plaids. India Madras and foulard
with button down collars should
predominate. In polo shirts, long
sleeve jersey knits of dacron or
orlon are in style. Sports coats,
predominate in stripes and muted
plaids. Blazers of blue, gray or
olive remain very popular.
Slacks have dropped the pleats
and back pockets are either plain
or have a flap. Coming up are
new side buckles and ranch-type
pockets. In dressy sports slacks,

gray flannel rates first while cot-
ton chinos remain the most pop-
ular slacks in more informal wear.
Waist-length jackets appear to
be most popular this season, with
the most popular selection having
a bright plaid lining. Reversibles
with attached hoods are also seen
around. Zippered jackets still pre-
dominate.
Car coats are dropping pegs;
they're using bone buttons now.
Duffer style is the most popular.
Fur trim will be the most promin-
ent feature this year.
New sportswear will not be as
loud this year and will allow men
to- show more individuality in
taste.

r.

AO
TH.E STYLE MAJOR CREATES
NEW STYLE MASTERPIECES IN

Entire stock of FALL CLOTHING
Suits formerly were '49.50 to $65.00
Sport Coats were .24.95 to ;42.50
NOW REDUCED

.... . .
THE MAN-TAILORED SHIRT
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eta _:;.."::_}
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This vilirant madder print is just one of the mnany man-
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i They all exhibit the authentic, properly flared
i button-down collar, with extra-long tails, generous
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from $5.50
A 1r. S J:... a . .', - x r o y:,"?l-

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NEW HAVEN
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