Up I clothing to u h Bergdorf Goodman nd Broo Brothers h ve been f ling th pinch. Manufacture uch as Gruppo GFT, the Italian m nufacturers of" tatus" de igner labl uch Valentino, Ungaro and Arrnanl, recently reported th firs t los in ix decad . Con ulting pecialists uch a Coopers & Lybrand forecast a tag­ nant market for high-co t niche p­ paret with no chance of comeback soon. I TH 1 men built up their bodie to proportions that tandard clothing me urernen would not fit. "To