46 | SEPTEMBER 12 • 2024 
J
N

FOOD

I

t’s hard to believe that 
a new year will soon be 
upon us, including ample 
gatherings based around food. 
As it is traditional to start a Rosh 
Hashanah dinner 
by eating simanim 
(signs or omens), 
foods considered 
auspicious for a 
positive year, I 
include recipes for 
dishes incorporating 
these foods in Rosh 
Hashanah appetizers 
and side dishes. 
The origin of the tradition to eat 
simanim comes from the Talmud, 
which describes a Talmudic sage, 
Abaye, outlining that “a man 
should accustom himself to looking 
at squash, beans, leeks, beets and 
dates on Rosh Hashanah.” 
The idea is that each of these 
foods grows quickly and serves 
as a positive omen for one’s 
actions during the coming year. 
It became traditional to eat these 
foods on Rosh Hashanah, as 
well as other foods symbolizing 
positive attributes for the new year, 
either related to their physical 

characteristics or to word plays 
in different languages. These 
include an apple dipped in honey 
for a good and sweet year, fish 
to be fruitful and multiply like 
fish, pomegranates so our merits 
should increase like the seeds of 
a pomegranate, dates (temarim) 
so our haters should perish 
(sheyitamu), and beets (selakim) 
so our enemies should be removed 
(sheyistalku). While these are some 
examples, there are many more.
I appreciate that this tradition 
provides us with an opportunity 
to envision the positive attributes 
we would like our coming year to 
have and to be able to share them 
as a community. I also think it can 
empower us to think more deeply 
about our personal aspirations for 
the coming year, to think about 
foods with the attributes that we 
hope for, and to share those foods 
and aspirations with our families 
and friends.
I share several recipes 
incorporating traditional simanim. 
A recipe for beets marinated 
in vinegar and mint provides 
a counterpart to sweet holiday 
dishes with the tart sherry vinegar 

and earthy beets, while mint, red 
onion and garlic add brightness. 
For a sweet-savory fish course, 
pomegranate molasses salmon 
pairs rich salmon with sweet and 
tart pomegranate molasses. For a 
sweeter side, date-roasted brussels 
sprouts incorporates both dates 
and date syrup, which complement 
the somewhat bitter flavor of the 
brussels sprouts.

BEETS MARINATED IN 
VINEGAR AND MINT
Adapted from Jody Williams and 
Rita Sodi 
Serves 4. Pareve

Ingredients

1 pound small or medium beets, 

preferably with fresh leaves

About 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ cup aged sherry vinegar

1 small red onion, halved and thinly 

sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

A handful of fresh mint leaves, thinly 

sliced

Directions
Preheat the oven to 400°F. 

Trim the beets, reserving any 
nice leaves. Scrub the beets 
thoroughly, removing any debris 
or rough spots, and rinse well. 
Wash beet leaves in cold water, 
spin them dry and finely slice 
them.
Cut the beets into quarters — 
or halves, if small. Transfer to 
a sheet pan, toss with enough 
olive oil to coat and sprinkle 
generously with salt and pepper.
Roast until the beets are 
tender when pierced with a fork, 
45 to 55 minutes.
Combine the vinegar, onions 
and garlic in a medium bowl. Stir 
in the hot beets, sliced leaves 
(if using) and the mint leaves; 
toss well. Season with salt and 
pepper as needed. Marinate in 
the refrigerator for at least 2 
hours, preferably overnight, and 
stir a few times while they’re 
marinating. Serve at room 
temperature.

POMEGRANATE MOLASSES 
SALMON
From Tori Avey 
Serves 8 as an appetizer. Pareve

Rosh Hashanah appetizers and sides

Food for 
 Thought 

Joelle 

Abramowitz

