AUGUST 29 • 2024 | 47
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pickling liquid. Season to taste 
with salt and pepper. Fold in 
arugula. Add additional pickling 
liquid, if desired.

EASIEST BAKED 
MAC-AND-CHEESE
Adapted from Deb Perelman 
Serves 6-8. Dairy

Ingredients

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 cup full-fat sour cream

2 cups low-fat or whole milk

1 tsp. dry mustard

Pinch cayenne (optional)

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg 

½ tsp. fine sea salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 pound sharp or extra-sharp cheddar 

cheese, grated

½ pound uncooked elbow pasta

Directions
Heat oven to 375°F and position 
an oven rack in upper third of 
oven. Use 1 tablespoon butter to 
grease a 9-inch round or square 
baking pan.
Whisk sour cream, milk, 
mustard, cayenne, nutmeg, salt 
and pepper in a large bowl.
Reserve ¼ cup grated cheese 
for topping and add the rest, 
along with the uncooked pasta, 
to milk mixture, stirring to 
combine. Pour into prepared 
pan, cover tightly with foil and 
bake 30 minutes.
Uncover pan, stir gently, 
sprinkle with reserved cheese 
and dot with remaining 

tablespoon 
butter. 
Bake, 
uncovered, 
30 minutes 
more, until 
browned. Let cool 
at least 15 minutes 
before serving.

 
CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH 
CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE 
FROSTING
Cake adapted from Ina Garten, 
frosting adapted from Sally 
McKenney 
Serves 8 or makes 24 cupcakes. 
Dairy

Ingredients
Cake 

1¾ cups all-purpose flour

2 cups sugar

¾ cups good cocoa powder, such as 

Valrhona

2 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 cup buttermilk, shaken

½ cup vegetable oil

2 extra-large eggs, at room 

temperature

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1 cup freshly brewed hot coffee

Chocolate Cream Cheese 
Frosting 

12 ounces (339g) full-fat brick cream 

cheese, softened to room temperature

¾ cup (12 Tbsp/170g) unsalted butter, 

softened to room temperature

3½ cups (420g) confectioners’ sugar

⅔ cup (55g) unsweetened natural or 

Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1–2 Tbsp. milk or heavy cream

Pinch salt

Directions
Preheat the oven to 350°F. 
Butter two 8-inch round cake 

pans (for cupcakes, see note). 
Line with parchment paper, then 
butter and flour the pans.

Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa, 
baking soda, baking powder and 
salt into the bowl of an electric 
mixer fitted with the paddle 
attachment and mix on low 
speed until combined. 
In another bowl, combine the 
buttermilk, oil, eggs and vanilla. 
With the mixer on low speed, 
slowly add the wet ingredients to 
the dry ones. With mixer still on 
low, add the coffee and stir just 
to combine, scraping the bottom 
of the bowl with a rubber spatula. 
Pour the batter evenly into the 
prepared pans and bake for 35 
to 40 minutes, until a cake tester 
comes out clean. Cool in the 
pans for 30 minutes, then turn 
them out onto a cooling rack and 
cool completely. 
While the cake is baking 
and cooling, in a large bowl 
using a handheld or stand 
mixer fitted with a paddle or 
whisk attachment, beat the 
cream cheese for 1 minute on 
high speed until completely 
smooth and creamy. Beat in 
the butter until combined. Add 
the confectioners’ sugar, cocoa 
powder, vanilla extract, 1 
Tablespoon milk and 
salt and beat on 
medium-
high 
speed 
until 

combined and creamy. 
Add 1 more tablespoon of milk 
to slightly thin out, if desired. 
Taste, then add another pinch of 
salt, if desired. Refrigerate until 
ready to use.
After the cake has cooled 
completely, place one layer, flat 
side up, on a flat plate or cake 
pedestal. With a knife or offset 
spatula, spread a thin layer of 
frosting on the top only. Place the 
second layer on top, flat side up, 
and spread the frosting evenly 
first on the sides and then on the 
top of the cake. Cut in wedges 
and serve at room temperature.
Note: For cupcakes, reduce 
bake time to 25-30 minutes. If 
frosting cupcakes, using a piping 
bag, refrigerate the frosting 
inside the piping bag for at 
least 30 minutes prior to piping. 
Frosting can be made ahead and 
stored, covered, for up to five 
days in the refrigerator or up to 
three months in the freezer. After 
freezing, thaw in the refrigerator 
then beat the frosting for a few 
seconds so it’s creamy again. 

Dr. Joelle Abramowitz works as an economist 

at the University of Michigan’s Institute for 

Social Research and also writes about food 

and life. See more of her writing at 

gastronomisteconomist.substack.com.