46 | APRIL 18 • 2024 plate to the freezer and chill uncovered until the balls are cold and no longer tacky to the touch (but not frozen solid), 15 to 20 minutes. Arrange an oven rack in the center position and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Place ½ cup (55g) of the confectioners’ sugar in a small bowl. Remove the plate from the freezer and, working one piece at a time, toss the balls in the confectioners’ sugar until generously coated all over, then place on the prepared sheet pan, spacing them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to fit all the dough on one pan (they spread just a little during baking). Transfer the sheet pan to the oven and bake until the cookies have a crinkled surface and are golden brown around the edges, 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the pan after 6 minutes. While the cookies are still hot from the oven, press the handle end of a wooden spoon straight down into the center of each cookie and wiggle slightly to make an impression, but don’t press all the way through to the baking sheet. Cool the cookies completely on the baking sheet, then carefully peel them away from the parchment paper one by one and transfer to a wire rack. Put the remaining confectioners’ sugar in a fine-mesh sieve and shake it over the cookies to coat them completely. In a small saucepan, warm the remaining ½ cup (160g) jam over medium- low heat, whisking occasionally, just until it’s fluid (or warm it in 20-second bursts in a microwave). Remove the saucepan from the heat and use a teaspoon to fill the impressions with the warm jam. Let the thumbprints sit uncovered until the jam is mostly set, 15 to 20 minutes. MOCK CHESTNUT TORTE Adapted from Marcy Goldman Parve or Dairy Ingredients ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted kosher for Passover margarine or butter ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 6 large eggs, separated 1½ cups cooked and mashed or pureed sweet potatoes, fresh or canned 1 teaspoon kosher for Passover vanilla extract (optional) 10 ounces good-quality semi- sweet chocolate, melted and cooled ¼ teaspoon salt Preparation Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. In a mixing bowl, cream the margarine or butter with the ⅓ cup of sugar. Blend in the egg yolks, then the sweet potatoes, vanilla extract (if using), and cooled chocolate. In another bowl, with clean beaters, whip the egg whites gently until they are a bit foamy. Then add in the salt and whip on a higher speed, slowly dusting in the 2 table- spoons of sugar to form stiff, glossy (but not dry) peaks. Fold one third of the egg whites into the sweet potato/chocolate mixture and work them in well to loosen the batter. Then, gently fold in the remaining egg whites, blending well but taking care not to deflate the mixture. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 40 minutes. The cake rises and looks dry, and slightly cracked on top when done. The middle should be soft but firm. Cool in the pan for 20 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool com- pletely. At this point, the cake can be frozen for up to a month. Cake can be served as is or topped with a ganache glaze made from water and melt- ed chocolate, sifted cocoa powder, chocolate curls or shavings, or raspberries or sliced strawberries, and can be accompanied by a pureed raspberry or straw- berry sauce. Dr. Joelle Abramowitz works as an economist at the University of Michigan’s Institute for Social Research and also writes about food and life. You can read more of her writing at gastronomisteconomist. substack.com. FOOD PASSOVER continued from page 45