MAY 18 • 2023 | 101

to crops from the beginning of agriculture. 
According to Mayzlish-Gati, the seeds are 
kept in optimal conditions and temperatures, 
and are available either for immediate use or 
for decades from now. 
The Land of Wheat project focuses on 
strains that possess commercial and culi-
nary potential, reports the Israeli newspaper 
Haaretz. The project staff partners with small 
artisanal bakeries, flour mills and chefs. They 
help to add culinary insight about the breads 
being made from local heritage wheats, and 
work to improve their flavor and nutritional 
values. 
 
TASTING HERITAGE STRAINS 
In 2021, two tastings were held at the Ad 
Halom flour mill outside of Ashdod, Israel, 
featuring breads made from heritage strains, 
the first official tasting of ancient wheat. 
There were many rounds of tastings and 
calculations before researchers would reveal 
the names of the varietals. The three strains 
they used include Diar Alla, Lubani Kisra 
and Palestinsaika. Palestinsaika is one of the 
strains recovered by the celebrated Russian 
botanist Nikolai Vavilov, who died in 1943. 
A story about revitalizing ancient wheat 
strains in the Jerusalem Post explains that the 
interest in recovering these grains is not just 
from local Israelis, but also from European 
market vendors. Since the EU’s ban on 
growing or using genetically modified crops, 
Europeans have been searching for organic 
alternatives to modern wheat farming. The 
Post story features French researchers and 
bakers together with Israeli and Palestinian 
organic farmers, working on producing a 
weather- and climate-resistant wheat. 
An interesting component of the report 
is Europe’s desire to grow the wheat in its 
indigenous environment, then import it. It 
seems like an energy-intensive option, but 
they believe the wheat will yield the best 
results in its native climate. This decision is 
important because it offers agricultural secu-
rity to small Israeli farmers. They can grow 
niche crops at better prices and produce 
higher quality grains. Their successes are 
giving them a competitive edge in European 
markets and other countries. 
The opportunity to grow ancient wheat 
grains again is restoring wheat to a moment 
in time where it was the cultural, agricultural 
and economic heart of the Israeli commu-

nity. This celebration of grain seems almost 
novel in the U.S. where so many people 
are in pursuit of gluten-free foods. But the 
heightened interest revitalizes the concept of 
delivering bread at the end of the first har-
vest full circle, especially now that we have 
the original strains. 
As a culinarian, it’s amazing to think that 
someday the flour we buy to make bread 
might be coming from the same lineage and 
location that our forefathers were farming. 
Israeli scientists are returning the ceremonial 
wheat harvest to the center of Jewish life, 
while creating a pathway for commerce and 
prosperity to Israeli farmers once again.

WHEAT BERRY SALAD
Adapted from Chef Ellie Kreiger 
Ingredients 

1½ cups hard wheat berries

¾ cup toasted walnuts, chopped

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

½ cup dried cherries

1 scallion white and green parts, sliced thin

½ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped

3 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

Directions 
In a large stock pot, combine the wheat 
berries, 1 teaspoon of salt and enough 
water to cover 2 inches over the berries. 
Bring to a boil and cook for 30 seconds. 

Reduce to a simmer and cook uncov-
ered until tender, between 30 and 45 
minutes. Drain and let cool. 
In a large bowl, combine the wheat 
berries, walnuts celery, cherries, scallion, 
parsley, olive oil and lemon juice. Stir to 
integrate and season to taste with salt 
and pepper.
Serves 4 to 6.

HONEY WHOLE WHEAT ROLLS
Sourced from Taste of Home
Ingredients

4 to 5 cups bread flour

¼ cup sugar

2 packages (¼ ounce each) active dry yeast

1 tsp. salt

1 cup 2% milk

1 cup butter, cubed

½ cup water

2 large eggs, room temperature

2 cups whole wheat flour

HONEY BUTTER:

1 cup butter, softened

7 Tbsp. honey

HONEY GLAZE:

2 Tbsp. honey

1 Tbsp. butter, melted

Directions 
In a large bowl, combine 2 cups bread 
flour, sugar, yeast and salt. In a small 
saucepan, heat the milk, butter and 
water to 120 to 130 degrees. Add to dry 

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