56 | FEBRUARY 23 • 2023 

remained the epicenter of the 
Jewish deli, eventually delis 
opened in Queens, Brooklyn, 
the Bronx and suburbs and 
cities throughout the United 
States, including Los Angeles, 
Chicago and Detroit. 
 Now, according to the New 
York Historical Society, there’s 
just as few dozen delis left in 
Manhattan. The famous Stage 
Deli, Carnegie Deli, Reuben’s 
and Lindy’s have all closed. 
Katz’s, Second Avenue Deli 
and Russ and Daughters are 
some of the few New York City 
delicatessens that remain. They 
are all acknowledged in the 
exhibit. 
Because most of the immi-
grants who settled in New York 
spoke Yiddish, there’s a poster 
on display titled “Yiddishisms.” 
The sampling of over 25 words 
includes the meanings of 

shpiel, verklempt, tsuris, shay-
na punim and kvell. 
As explained on a sign at the 
beginning of the exhibition, 
the Jewish delicatessen story 
is as much about immigration 
as it is about food. More than 
2 million Jewish immigrants 
ascended into the United States 
between 1880 and 1924, bring-
ing their regional dishes with 
them. The sign reads: “Foods 
such as pickles, knishes, gefitle 
fish, borscht, pastrami, smoked 
fish, bagels, babka and rugelach 
began to be served under one 
roof for the first time … over 
time, these foods became the 
hallmarks of the Jewish deli in 
the United States.” 

 

The New York Historical Society, 170 

Central Park West, at 77th Street. (212) 

873-3400. www.nyhistory.org. Tickets 

can be purchased online. Advanced 

timed tickets are encouraged. 

ALICE BURDICK SCHWEIGER

A miniature Katz’s 
Delicatessen at the exhibit

A panel at the exhibit explains 
how immigration led to the rise 
of Jewish delis.

ALICE BURDICK SCHWEIGER

continued from page 55

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