JANUARY 12 • 2023 | 31 we traveled to and toured the memorial and museum at the former concentration camp Sachsenhausen. This is the very concentration camp to which Jews were sent following Kristallnacht. Almost 6,000 Jews arrived in Sachsenhausen in the days following the Kristallnacht riots. Our group welcomed Kabbalat Shabbat at the New Synagogue in Berlin. Prior to the evening service, we sat down to a conver- sation with a synagogue member to learn how the community is involved in helping refugees from the ongoing war in Ukraine. At the service itself, it was striking how many of the congregants were young mothers and children from Ukraine. At the dinner fol- lowing the service, I was struck by the children. They reminded me of myself and my brother when we were refugees from Russia. Like us, these children’s favorite condiment was ketchup. One of the most striking days of the trip for me was our group’s visit to Halberstadt, one of the places in Germany that had been home to a large and important Jewish community for centuries. Jewish roots in Halberstadt date back to the 1200s. In Halberstadt, there are three Jewish cemeteries, two of which our group visited. Today in Halberstadt, there is the Berend Lehmann Museum for Jewish History and Culture. The museum is named after Berend Lehmann who was “one of the most important court Jews of his time.” Among other contri- butions, Lehmann financed the building of the Klaus synagogue in Halberstadt as a teaching house as well as the first printing of the Babylonian Talmud in Germany. On Kristallnacht, this syna- gogue, too, was ransacked, and the Torah scrolls burned. However, because the synagogue was surrounded by other buildings, it was not burned. Instead, on Nov. 18, 1938, the local Building Department ordered the manual demolition of the synagogue and billed the work to the Halberstadt Jewish community. This city, once home to one of the largest Jewish populations in central Europe, today has barely a half-dozen Jewish residents and no living Jewish spaces, just muse- ums to what once was. Being here was a gut punch. The absence of Jews and the museums essentially to a lost civilization are the world Hitler sought in his final solution. Prior to the trip, I picked up Anne Frank The Diary of a Young Girl at The Book Beat in Oak Park. It was my first time reading the harrowing first- person account of the Holocaust. I brought the book with me to Berlin and finished it on the trip. I did not realize just how compulsory Anne’s account would be to my experience in Germany and to my own appreciation of being alive and free to be as authentic and public in my Jewish identity and practice as I choose to be. I especially connected to a passage where Anne compares her own situation in hiding to that of a Jewish school friend lacking the safety temporarily afforded to Anne. Anne writes, “Oh, God, that I should have all I could wish for and that she should be seized by such a terrible fate. I am not more virtuous than she; she, too, wanted to do what was right, why should I be chosen to live and she probably to die? What was the difference between us? Why are we so far from each other now?” There are no obvious answers. The trip to Germany reinforced my gratitude to be Jewish and alive. And implored me to do as much good as I can in my brief time. Yevgeniya Gazman lives in Farmington. Statues outside the Cemetery of the Jewish Community of Berlin The group stands in a circle during a tour of synagogue remains in Halberstadt. continued on page 32