24 | NOVEMBER 24 • 2022 A fter 56 years, Joe Salama stood in the bedroom of his childhood home, surrounded by his three children and four of his seven grandchil- dren. He marveled that he, his parents and his three siblings had lived comfortably in the modest apartment at 224 Shatby St., with its three small bedrooms, single bathroom and galley kitchen. Finally, he was able to share some of the physical aspects of his Egyptian heritage with his fami- ly. Salama had not been back in Egypt since he left in 1966 at the age of 19. For the October trip, Salama, 75, an orthopedic surgeon at Ascension Providence Hospital, was accompanied by his children, David Salama, M.D., 45, of West Bloomfield, and Evan Salama, 42, and Jill Handman, 37, both of whom live in the Los Angeles area. Rounding out their group of eight were David’s two older children, Elliot, 16, and Ari, 13, and Evan’s two older children, Molly, 10 and Benji, 8. Joe’s wife, Rita, has Alzheimer’s disease and was unable to make the trip, and his children’s spouses stayed home with their younger children. Joe, of Farmington Hills, recalled an Alexandria of 500,000 residents that was very cosmo- politan; one would hear French, English, Italian and Greek spoken in the streets along with Arabic. The women dressed fashionably and hardly any covered their hair. Muslims, Christians and Jews lived, worked and socialized together. Joe recalled a few years when Muslim neighbors helped his family prepare meals to break the Yom Kippur fast. Today, says Joe, the essence of the city is still there, but Alexandria now has 7 million residents, and so it is much more crowded, dirty and noisy. Arabic is pretty much the only language used, and almost all the women wear the hijab. The Eliyahu Hanavi Syna- gogue — the largest in all of Africa — has been restored, but primarily to attract Jewish tour- ists. It is open only by appoint- ment; there are no Jews living in Alexandria who would attend regular services. The synagogue’s ark contains 13 Torah scrolls, most of which came from other synagogues, now closed. When the Salamas visited, Joe thought he recognized some of the scrolls from the synagogue his family used to attend. David Salama said Egypt is in the process of renovating another synagogue in Alexandria. Several Cairo synagogues have also been restored. The Eliyahu Hanavi caretak- er had erected and decorated a sukkah in the synagogue’s court- yard — the first sukkah built in Alexandria since 2008 — and served the Salama family a festive meal there, including Egyptian guaffa (guava), which Joe hadn’t tasted since he was a teenager. “Taking a bite of this fruit in a OUR COMMUNITY One-time refugee returns to Egypt. BARBARA LEWIS CONTRIBUTING WRITER An Exodus inReverse COURTESY OF THE SALAMA FAMILY TOP: 1960 restored photo of the Salama family in front of the Sphinx of Giza: Mayer Salama, Gabriel Salama, Edna Ravitz, Joseph Salama, Regina Salama ABOVE: David Salama, Ari Salama, Jason Handman, Evan Salama, Melissa Salama, Joseph Salama, Jill Salama Handman and Elliot Salama in front of the Sphinx at Giza continued on page 26