NOVEMBER 3 • 2022 | 37

Believe me, it’s hard to resist. 
The 13 listed appetizers that 
we skipped to save our appe-
tites included Chef Brian’s 
cold bean salad and his road-
house-style frog legs, crispy 
spiced cauliflower, tenderloin 
tips with roasted mushrooms, 
pesto bruschetta and more. 
I knew beforehand that I’
d 
be ordering “Detroit’s Favorite 
Minestrone Lelli.
” Few varieties 
taste better than this light-col-
ored, vegetarian minestrone, a 
signature of Lelli’s. The delicate-
ly flavored concoction is thick 
with pureed white beans, finely 
minced vegetables, spinach 
and tiny pasta. Do say “yes” 
to a sprinkling of shredded 
Parmesan cheese on top. 
Manager Ari Zarkin, one 
of the four Zarkin offspring, 
said he comes early each 
morning to make the famous 
recipe. While I was enjoying 
the soup, my friend opted 
for the 1939 Original Salad, 
including a hard-boiled egg. 
It came with a delectable 
creamy garlic vinaigrette.
My main course was fan-
tastic. I chose Chinese-Oven 
Roasted Duck with pine nuts 
and cherry brandy sauce. Chef 
John brought over the recipe 
and the oven from The Lark. 
My half portion of duck was 
presented with a honey-glazed 
crust, alongside fluffy mashed 
potatoes and green beans. I 
couldn’t get enough of the 
accompanying sauce with its 
large plump berries. Sampling 

the Chicken Parmesan served 
with Spaghetti Marinara, I 
found it superior to most 
renderings of the traditional 
combo. 
At another meal, I ordered 
pasta with two different sauces. 
Spaghetti Bolognese features an 
exceptionally meaty sauce. “We 
make it with trimmings from 
filet mignon,
” Mark Zarkin said. 
Son Ari is partial to the 
creamy tomato Palomino sauce 
with Parmesan cheese over 
penne pasta, so I tried it and 
liked it even more. I also recom-
mend Curried Duck Salad with 
fresh arugula. The ingredients 
are reminiscent of a Waldorf 
salad, including apples, onion 
and celery, but without wal-
nuts. A lemon curry vinaigrette 
makes the salad come together 
deliciously.
Mark Zarkin said Lelli’s 
Famous House-Made Carrot 
Cake is a popular choice for 
dessert. I personally have 
enjoyed the restaurant’s spu-
moni: distinct layers of choc-
olate, vanilla and pistachio ice 
cream with bits of nuts and 
fruit. 
The incomparable, golden 
voice of Frank Sinatra is the 
musical backdrop for experi-
encing a lovely time at Steven 
Lelli’s Inn on the Green. I 
also want to give props to the 
formally dressed waitstaff for 
providing guests with impec-
cable service. Hours here 
begin at 4 p.m., excluding 
Monday. 

Veal Marsala with 
pan-sautéed roasted 
mushrooms and red wine 
demi-glace served with 
twice-baked mashed 
potatoes Lelli and green 
beans almondine.

Spaghetti-
Bolognese

MORE INFO

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248-246-6646
4278 Haggerty Rd.

Commerce Twp, MI

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Office: (248) 547-7970

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(248) 417-5632 

Skill, Sensitivity and Tradition 
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