SEPTEMBER 8 • 2022 | 49

to diners on metal trays lined 
with vintage-looking newsprint. 
Cardboard “boats” hold side 
dishes.
I recently ordered the quarter 
fried chicken, a breast and a 
wing (I could have had a thigh 
and a leg), with two small sides. 
Mine were mashed potatoes 
with gravy and creamed spinach. 
Other options include vegan 
mac and cheese, house-made 
onion rings, fried dill pickles and 
Israeli or purple cabbage salad. 
The half chicken and an 
eight-piece whole chicken come 
with increasingly larger sides. 
Separate chicken parts can be 
added. The menu also lists 
chicken wings, chicken sand-
wiches and chicken tacos in 
varying treatments. 
Assessing the meal: My large 
chicken breast had the crispy, 
properly seasoned coating I 
expected and wasn’t dry inside. 
Both pieces were delicious. 

From-scratch mashed potatoes, 
like these were, are always better. 
But if you’re the type that likes 
to control how much dressing 
goes on your salad, you ought to 
request your gravy on the side. 
I’ve never had better-tasting 
creamed spinach. My vegetable 
dish with fresh spinach was 
dropped off after the rest of my 
dinner. “Nobody wants creamed 
spinach that’s been sitting under 
a warmer,
” Chef Cari explained. 
The fried fish and chips here 
are good-sized, lightly battered 
cod filets with hand-cut chips 
(French fries). Initially fried at 
a low temperature, the chips are 
flash-fried when ordered. It’s 
another satisfying meal. But as 
for the Kishke Bombs I tried — 
let’s just say they might be an 
acquired taste. 
Ess In opens at 3 p.m. Sunday 
and 11 a.m. on other days. But 
never on Shabbat Saturday, of 
course. 
A view of the dining room

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