46 | AUGUST 4 • 2022
E
rika Boyd “grew up cooking with
my mother and grandmother,”
skills she puts to good use as
the executive chef and co-owner of
Detroit Vegan Soul (DVS) in the thriving
North Rosedale Park neighborhood.
Her business partner is
former public relations
executive Kirsten Ussery,
the restaurant’s general
manager.
Detroit Vegan Soul’s niche
is offering vegan versions of
Southern soul food entrees
and sides. It’s also the only
kosher restaurant in Detroit,
newly certified by Kosher Michigan
founder Rabbi Jason Miller. DVS is easily
reached on Grand River Avenue, a block
from the independent Pages Bookshop,
between Southfield Freeway and
Evergreen Road.
The partners have owned the building
that houses their restaurant since 2017.
The original DVS was in rented quarters
on Agnes Street in Detroit’s West Village
neighborhood. Boyd and Ussery operated
their vegan restaurant there from 2013 to
December 2021.
Boyd became interested in seeking
kashrut certification for DVS six years ago
and turned to Miller. The Conservative
rabbi has operated his business for 14
years, while also officiating at bar and bat
mitzvah ceremonies around the country.
Boyd took a pass at that time but came
to see the potential of a kosher operation
once meatless diets became more popular.
“You feel better after eating here — not
heavy or bloated,” Boyd said. “You don’t
feel like you overate.”
For his part, Miller said that knowing
Detroit Vegan Soul is “vegetarian/vegan
makes it easier to certify” as kosher.
“No meat products are coming into the
kitchen, so no cross-contamination is
possible.”
“For someone keeping kosher, it helps
to have a rabbi to check the kitchen and
ingredients,” Boyd said.
The food at DVS “has no preservatives
and uses all organic, plant-based
ingredients,” she said.
Her repertoire of soul food mainstays
includes items like Oyster Mushroom
Po Boy, Hoppin’ John and a Soul Platter,
featuring “Catfish” tofu, mac ‘n’ cheese,
smoked collards, candied yams, black-
eyed peas, brown rice and cornbread
muffin. The menu includes house-made
veggie millet patty burgers, one with
vegan cheese and coconut “bacon,” and a
flame-broiled seitan “steak” strip.
During a recent lunch with Miller, I was
especially excited about my Okra Stew.
My bowl held a nourishing, delicious
mix of fresh okra, tomato, onion, quinoa
and brown rice. It hit the spot. We both
wanted the BBQ “ribs” — actually, sturdy
square tofu sticks. The texture isn’t
the same, but the pieces are tasty and
smothered in a yummy barbecue sauce.
I sampled the rabbi’s Kale Salad. It’s a
NOSH
DINING AROUND THE D
Detroit
Vegan Soul
Esther
Allweiss
Ingber
Contributing
Writer
DETROIT VEGAN SOUL FACEBOOK
ESTHER ALLWEISS INGBER
“Bacon”
Ranch
Pita