E
ternally popular as a side
dish at catered events,
restaurants and synagogue
functions, roasted brassicas are
a great way to escape the usual
doldrums of steamed or boiled
cruciferous vege-
tables. Avoid the
pungent smells, and
instead trade them
for crispy, garlicky
delight. Or, roast
broccoli plain until
it just starts to char,
and sprinkle with a little soy
sauce. Broccolini, rapini and brus-
sels sprouts can also be treated
this way, with variation mostly in
the time they take in the oven.
If you’re grilling out in the
lovely weather, you can cut larger
chunks of the broccoli, cauliflow-
er, etc., and treat them almost like
steaks, looking for a good char on
the edges and a tender, perfectly
cooked interior. Get the sear with
direct heat and move to indirect
heat to keep cooking, or finish
them in the oven — or be a grill
nerd and get a perforated frying
pan you can use straight on the
grill.
This recipe, like many I write,
is a format and a method more
than a strict set of ingredients;
you’ll notice that beyond garlic
and chili, there’s not much else
here for flavor. A good vinaigrette
could do nicely as a finishing
touch on a plate of these vegeta-
bles, with some fresh herbs and
mustardy pungency to play with
the concentrated brassica flavors;
simple lemon juice, olive oil
and a little parmesan might go a
long way; you could also use the
sauces or gravies from your main
dish, and consider those flavors
when seasoning up the brassi-
cas — would one or two more
spices fit? Absolutely they might.
Experiment and be bold, and taste
as you go.
FOOD
FROM THE HOME KITCHEN
OF CHEF AARON
Chef Aaron
Egan
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
3 lbs. broccoli or cauliflower trimmed florets, or
a mix of the two
Oil
Salt and fresh black pepper
6-8 cloves fresh garlic, minced well
1 tsp. red chili flakes
Directions
(You’re going to need a large bowl
for this. If you don’t have a giant bowl
like I do, use a smaller one and work
in reasonably sized batches that allow
you to season evenly without making
a huge mess. You may need more
chopped garlic or other ingredients to
get a good even level of seasoning.)
1. Preheat your oven to 450°F.
Combine the minced garlic, chili flakes
and a good amount of oil in a bowl.
Mix together with a spoon or spatula
until the garlic breaks up a bit and
begins to float around in the oil; this
will help the garlic to disperse more
evenly. Add the florets to the bowl and
toss to coat. Season well with salt and
pepper, adding more oil if need be to
ensure that everything gets a good
covering.
2. Pour the seasoned florets onto
a sheet pan (lined with parchment if
you have it) and spread them evenly.
Repeat as necessary to season all
the vegetables; make sure that you’re
putting them in an even layer, not piled
up high. If there are too many florets
for one sheet pan, use two. Remember,
we’re not steaming vegetables and a
pile of vegetables in the oven is going
to create a lot of steam before it roasts
up nicely, which will make us end up
with mushy vegetables.
3. Bake until just starting to become
brown and crisp; for broccoli, this may
take 15-20 minutes, while cauliflower
will take at least 20-30, depending on
your oven. If you’re concerned about
doneness, try poking the stem of a thick
piece with a knife. The less resistance
you feel, the more cooked the veggies.
4. Enjoy as a side dish along with
some hearty, savory main plate (like a
nice big Shabbos roast).
Chef Aaron’s
Roasted Brassicas
38 | JULY 28 • 2022