APRIL 8 • 2021 | 53

T

hey were once dubbed 
the Massage Brothers 
by localite “Turk” 
Prujansky (Herman Prujan to 
his Hollywood 
friends) long 
before there were 
the Blues Brothers 
… But two other 
brothers gave up 
their lunch busi-
ness and one of 
them, Mario Lelli, 
other than breaking your back 
with his slapping ways, contin-
ued and settled things with some 
of the best steaks and Italian food 
in town.
It was not just a typically good 
Detroit restaurant … It was one 
of the best and deserved listing 
among the city’s top 10.
But working 18 hours a day 
was too much, so Mario and 
brother Nello gave up the lunch 
business … Although even more 
success came almost immedi-

ately.
The accent at Mario’s was 
Italian, but a very sophisticated 
and worldly Italian … His cus-
tomers were getting away from 
ordinary Italian dishes as their 
palates became more sophisti-
cated …
More and more called for 
Latin delights … Mario came out 
with a brochure telling his cus-
tomers what they were getting.
He was no slouch as a cook 
and frequently took over the 
preparations of some of Mario’s 
very special dishes … He once 
told me that all the recipes were 
his own originals … that he stole 
them from somebody else and 
then added his own improve-
ments and refinements.
Mario’s fine Italian hand was 
distinguished in the great mine-
strone soup, a meal in itself, the 
special antipasto, another meal in 
itself, the superb manicotti, etc.
Mario wasn’t kidding when he 

said that all his beef was prime 
… his steaks were great … but 
his Italian food was even better!
That was back in the ’50s and 
Mario’s, now owned by Vince 
Passalacqua, is still doing terrific 
business as Mario’s at the same 
Second Boulevard, Detroit spot. 
MAIL DEPT. … “I’m a law-
yer and retired Wayne County 
Circuit judge. I especially love 
your column. I never made it to 
Echner’s, but was very fond of 
the London Chop House, Caucus 
Club, Pinkey’s, Little Harry’s, the 
Old Club, Carl’s, Mario’s, Larco’s, 
Lelli’s, Villa Venice, Joe Muer’s, 
the Gaslight, Victor Lim’s, Trader 
Vic’s, Brass Rail, Roma, Russell’s, 
Topinka’s and Cardinal’s for the 
best fettucine ever.
” … Sharon 
Tevis Finch.
DON’T LOOK FOR the pres-
ent avalanche of food-to-home 
delivery companies and offshoots 
of biggies like Kroger, Walmart, 
Whole Foods, etc., to give up 
the golden goose it has found 
… Many are making big money 
with it … But things may change 

when restaurant dining opens 
up again full force … Numerous 
men and women will happily go 
back to their former jobs at eat-
eries … Most restaurants can’t do 
without them … And in untold 
cases, people will be glad to do 
their own shopping everywhere 
themselves again … even to 
going distances without the pres-
ent problems like groceries being 
left on porches, doorsteps, etc. 
… and, in some instances, even 
fences and garage lids … plus 
being stolen.
OLDIE BUT GOODIE 
QUICKIE …Two roaches were 
gorging themselves at a restau-
rant dumpster … One left to 
examine the dumpster of a new 
restaurant and returned extolling 
virtues about how clean it was 
… “Please,
” said his buddy, “not 
while I’m eating!”
 CONGRATS … To Lillian 
Halperman on her birthday. 

Danny’s email address is 
dannyraskin2132@gmail.com.

Danny 
Raskin
Senior Columnist

An Ode to Mario’s

MARIO’S FACEBOOK

RASKIN
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