40 | MARCH 5 • 2020
Without the Fish
Detroit native opens
vegan deli in Chicago,
plans a popup in Detroit.
JACKIE HEADAPOHL ASSOCIATE EDITOR
G
randma Gertie would be proud. Her
grandson, Southfield native Andy
Kalish, has opened a vegan deli in the
Windy City.
Named Sam & Gertie’
s, the deli is modeled
on what Kalish calls his “love for Detroit-style
delis, as well as my grandma Gertie’
s wonder-
ful Jewish cooking.”
The deli, although “not technically kosher
but entirely pareve,” has been open for a few
months and selling out every weekend. “People
love the food, the vibe and the ever-present
nods to Detroit culinary Judaica,” Kalish says.
He pays homage to Detroit delis going back
30 or 40 years. “Think Pickle Barrel (‘
best
corned beef sandwich ever’
), Star Deli (‘
Not
only do I love the food — I love how the place
is packed to the rafters with foods’
) and Stage
— the glitz, the service, the foods … they hit
all the notes,” Kalish says. “Detroit deli flavors
and Rosen’
s seedless rye are in my DNA.”
The menu features animal-free versions
of Eastern European Jewish classics such as
knishes, chopped liver, smoked whitefish salad,
babka and latkes. A large glass deli case holds
containers of potato, “egg’
less” and “chik’
n”
salads.
Menu items include the “Plotzker,” warmed
corned beef and pastrami on rye; the
“Schwartz,” containing corned beef, caraway
slaw, cherry Q dipping sauce and gouda melt;
the “Levin,” with pastrami, sauerkraut, 1000
COURTESY OF ANDY KALISH
continued on page 42
Whitefish
eats | drinks | sweets
eats | drinks |
Nosh
Andy Kalish and a happy customer
in front of Sam & Gertie’
s