40 | MARCH 5 • 2020 

Without the Fish

Detroit native opens 
vegan deli in Chicago, 
plans a popup in Detroit.

JACKIE HEADAPOHL ASSOCIATE EDITOR
G

randma Gertie would be proud. Her 
grandson, Southfield native Andy 
Kalish, has opened a vegan deli in the 
Windy City. 
Named Sam & Gertie’
s, the deli is modeled 
on what Kalish calls his “love for Detroit-style 
delis, as well as my grandma Gertie’
s wonder-
ful Jewish cooking.” 
The deli, although “not technically kosher 
but entirely pareve,” has been open for a few 
months and selling out every weekend. “People 
love the food, the vibe and the ever-present 
nods to Detroit culinary Judaica,” Kalish says.
He pays homage to Detroit delis going back 
30 or 40 years. “Think Pickle Barrel (‘
best 
corned beef sandwich ever’
), Star Deli (‘
Not 

only do I love the food — I love how the place 
is packed to the rafters with foods’
) and Stage 
— the glitz, the service, the foods … they hit 
all the notes,” Kalish says. “Detroit deli flavors 
and Rosen’
s seedless rye are in my DNA.”
The menu features animal-free versions 
of Eastern European Jewish classics such as 
knishes, chopped liver, smoked whitefish salad, 
babka and latkes. A large glass deli case holds 
containers of potato, “egg’
less” and “chik’
n” 
salads.
Menu items include the “Plotzker,” warmed 
corned beef and pastrami on rye; the 
“Schwartz,” containing corned beef, caraway 
slaw, cherry Q dipping sauce and gouda melt; 
the “Levin,” with pastrami, sauerkraut, 1000 

COURTESY OF ANDY KALISH

continued on page 42

Whitefish

eats | drinks | sweets
eats | drinks |
Nosh

Andy Kalish and a happy customer 
in front of Sam & Gertie’
s

