DECEMBER 5 • 2019 | 45
PAO
Detroit
A
n elegant décor that preserves
Detroit architectural history awaits
visitors to PAO Detroit. Open in
July after three years of construction-
remodeling, the restaurant-
lounge overlooks the north
side of Downtown’
s Grand
Circus Park.
The restaurant group
Prime Concepts Detroit
created PAO, offering
Asian fusion cuisine in the
adjoining lobby of the for-
mer Oriental Theater. The fabulous movie
palace that seated more than 2,600 opened
in 1926, giving way to a parking lot by the
early 1950s.
The Think Shop Architects in Detroit
gave PAO a contemporary look with retro
charm. The deep, narrow room features
tiny white tiles covering columns and the
bottom of a new mezzanine. The upper
deck is available for private parties and
daily dining. Preserved elements include
a 30-foot-high green ceiling with rough
plaster designs and tall mirrors on dis-
tressed, unfinished walls. Green ornamen-
tation above the mirrors and long white
curtains at either side lend theatrical flair.
Oversized bottles of champagne sit on
window ledges. At the front of the house, a
black-tiled bar stands where movie tickets
were sold.
With PAO, the company sought to cre-
ate an “
environment that makes people
feel happy and want to come back,
” said
co-owner Stolion Liti.
The service is excellent and water glasses
are kept filled. We were pleased to accept
complimentary flutes of the Italian white
wine, Prosecco. That’
s because of the
gracious PAO courtesy of “
greeting every
guest with a toast of sparkling wine,
” Liti
said.
“We focus on bubbles — sparkling wine
from Spain and Italy, and champagne from
France and Japanese whiskey,
” he said.
Handcrafted cocktails are also popular.
Working with Liti, Executive Chef Alex
Farhat created a menu of artistically pre-
sented, upscale food. PAO offers guests
the shared plates-style of dining. As Liti
explained, “They can enjoy different types
of flavors in different dishes, without hav-
ing to order too little or too much.
”
Vegetables, Sashimi, Sea and Land are
the menu categories. My friend Roberta
and I both liked our Carrot & Ginger
Soup, listed under Vegetables. Garnished
with microgreens, the pureed soup’
s del-
icate flavor was punched up nicely by
ginger.
We shared Cauliflower Lettuce Wraps,
glad to forgo carbs. They contained
cauliflower rice, peanut sauce, lime and
cilantro. Chicken may be requested. Three
wraps come per order, so we ordered an
extra. Best was the large Asian Crab Cake
we split. Including crab, shrimp, Japanese
Cabbage Pancake and Sriracha Aioli, this
crab cake offered a unique taste.
Liti said the most popular PAO entrees
are creamy and garlicky King Crab
Gnocchi, 48-Hour Lamb Lollipops in
Mongolian Marinade, Miso Chilean Sea
Bass in parchment and Tuna Tacos, served
with Pica de Gallo and Sambal Aioli.
In addition to PAO Detroit, the seven-
year-old Prime Concepts Detroit operates
Prime29 Steakhouse and NARA in West
Bloomfield and W Dine inside Wabeek
Country Club in Bloomfield Hills.
PAO opens at 4 p.m. daily, except 3 on
Sunday.
Esther Allweiss
Ingber
Contributing Writer
PAO Detroit
114 W. Adams, Detroit
(313) 816-0000
paodetroit.com
$$$ out of $$$$
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