 DECEMBER 5 • 2019 | 45

PAO 
Detroit
A

n elegant décor that preserves 
Detroit architectural history awaits 
visitors to PAO Detroit. Open in 
July after three years of construction-
remodeling, the restaurant- 
lounge overlooks the north 
side of Downtown’
s Grand 
Circus Park.
The restaurant group 
Prime Concepts Detroit 
created PAO, offering 
Asian fusion cuisine in the 
adjoining lobby of the for-
mer Oriental Theater. The fabulous movie 
palace that seated more than 2,600 opened 
in 1926, giving way to a parking lot by the 
early 1950s. 
The Think Shop Architects in Detroit 
gave PAO a contemporary look with retro 
charm. The deep, narrow room features 
tiny white tiles covering columns and the 
bottom of a new mezzanine. The upper 
deck is available for private parties and 
daily dining. Preserved elements include 
a 30-foot-high green ceiling with rough 
plaster designs and tall mirrors on dis-
tressed, unfinished walls. Green ornamen-
tation above the mirrors and long white 
curtains at either side lend theatrical flair. 
Oversized bottles of champagne sit on 
window ledges. At the front of the house, a 
black-tiled bar stands where movie tickets 
were sold.
With PAO, the company sought to cre-
ate an “
environment that makes people 
feel happy and want to come back,
” said 
co-owner Stolion Liti. 
The service is excellent and water glasses 
are kept filled. We were pleased to accept 
complimentary flutes of the Italian white 
wine, Prosecco. That’
s because of the 
gracious PAO courtesy of “
greeting every 

guest with a toast of sparkling wine,
” Liti 
said. 
“We focus on bubbles — sparkling wine 
from Spain and Italy, and champagne from 
France and Japanese whiskey,
” he said. 
Handcrafted cocktails are also popular.
Working with Liti, Executive Chef Alex 
Farhat created a menu of artistically pre-
sented, upscale food. PAO offers guests 
the shared plates-style of dining. As Liti 
explained, “They can enjoy different types 
of flavors in different dishes, without hav-
ing to order too little or too much.
”
Vegetables, Sashimi, Sea and Land are 
the menu categories. My friend Roberta 
and I both liked our Carrot & Ginger 
Soup, listed under Vegetables. Garnished 
with microgreens, the pureed soup’
s del-
icate flavor was punched up nicely by 
ginger. 
We shared Cauliflower Lettuce Wraps, 
glad to forgo carbs. They contained 
cauliflower rice, peanut sauce, lime and 
cilantro. Chicken may be requested. Three 
wraps come per order, so we ordered an 
extra. Best was the large Asian Crab Cake 
we split. Including crab, shrimp, Japanese 
Cabbage Pancake and Sriracha Aioli, this 
crab cake offered a unique taste.
Liti said the most popular PAO entrees 
are creamy and garlicky King Crab 
Gnocchi, 48-Hour Lamb Lollipops in 
Mongolian Marinade, Miso Chilean Sea 
Bass in parchment and Tuna Tacos, served 
with Pica de Gallo and Sambal Aioli. 
In addition to PAO Detroit, the seven-
year-old Prime Concepts Detroit operates 
Prime29 Steakhouse and NARA in West 
Bloomfield and W Dine inside Wabeek 
Country Club in Bloomfield Hills. 
PAO opens at 4 p.m. daily, except 3 on 
Sunday. 

Esther Allweiss 
Ingber
Contributing Writer

PAO Detroit
114 W. Adams, Detroit
(313) 816-0000
paodetroit.com
$$$ out of $$$$

VIA PAO FACEBOOK

Nosh

dining in the d

